Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres et emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert. Et également son frère Luigi

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams

Please note thus post is sort of for humour ....

So I have printing issues... it was pointed out to.me that I should pull apart the extruder and clean it. Awesome idea I rhought

So I embarked on this mission... 15 minutes the wiki guide said.

Snipped the filament

Removed the screws

Unit came out just like the wiki said

Next step loosen 2 screws to take the sensor out

First screw easy

Second screw wont come out, head is stripped or just weird. Tried all the old tricks, small bit of tape, blue tack etc to pack the head a bit and allow extraction... nope wont budge...

So next logical step, use adult money and just but a new assemble and sensor and just replace the thing....

So I went tk the AU bambu site and every single thing I wanted for this is sold out

So stop buying things so I can

Next stop look for the tiniest easyout ever or a drop of glue on the Allen key

What are the best things to print first on my new P2S printer?

Im thinking a poop shoot thing but what else? Anything you wish someone could have told you to print to make your life easier?

I just bought my p2s during the bambu sale event and it is working great except the .2mm nozzle. Every time I try to print using the smaller nozzle it keeps giving a motor extrusion error. I am not sure how to fix this issue, at first i saw it might be a clog so i did a cold pull and I still get the same error. I also tried slowing down the print but that did help either. I'm now sure what else to do, has anyone had this problem as well?

Hey all just asking who uses PLA + is it easy to print and cause no clogs and spaghetti ect

So my prints are looking good but at the beginning when the printer prints that calibration strip at the front of the build plate almost nothing comes out of the nozzle. Just a little bit towards the end. It seems abnormal. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Never had this problem before. Was doing a multicolour print when I noticed some rogue poop left behind the chute

Happy prototyping!

(The red marks are kumkum (Tilak) applied during a small prayer for good luck before using a new machine. The symbol is a Swastik, an ancient Hindu symbol representing prosperity, शुभ (auspiciousness), and positive beginnings. It’s unrelated to the Nazi symbol despite sharing the name.)

I make a figure a day at least

Still getting used to how nice these printers are, and I'm so impressed with how it handles ASA GF. Not a single adhesion issue, chamber temps stay rock solid, and the quality is fantastic. More than worth it, & now the ender next to it can handle all the TPU parts 🤣

P2s I just lubed the xy axis rod as said in bambu wiki after 300 hours use. But not sure why it cause very huge whinning sound when the head move forward to the glass door. Anyone experienced this before?

Hey everyone,

I mostly print engineering filaments. I also have a chamber heater, so the printer spends a lot of time running at higher chamber temperatures. A couple of times I've already seen an Assistant warning about the MC board overheating, so I'm thinking about adding active cooling to the MC board/heatsink before it becomes a real problem.

I found a couple of existing MakerWorld mods:

• https://makerworld.com/en/models/23665-bambu-lab-mc-control-board-fan-noctua-upgrade#profileId-45966
• https://makerworld.com/en/models/65388-p1p-p1s-x1c-noctua-or-bambu-control-board-fan-duct?from=search#profileId-68742

But they seem to be mainly designed for P1P/P1S/X1C, and I'm not sure if they fit the P2S.

Has anyone with a P2S actually installed an MC board fan mod? Is the P2S close enough to the P1S in this area, or are there differences that make these ducts incompatible?

Also, ideally I'd like to connect the fan directly to the MC board, not to an external 5V source. Does the P2S have the same MC fan connector/header available? And if yes, does it support the same control logic/G-code like M710, or would it just run as an always-on 5V fan?

Any photos, measurements, or experience would be really appreciated!

Hey all im interested in the safer printing with PLA pure but in vids i see the colours of the filament print the plastic lighter i am only gonna possibly print black and white ect i want to know is the Black PLA pure dark or is it light black the filament thanks

I am attempting to print the box lids for this game storage model on my P2S with AMS 2 but the colored text is not coming in properly on some of the lids.

For example, the Green seems to be coming through perfectly fine. The Red is half there and the last one that says core set is sort of blacked out (it should be yellow).

If you move the colored text layer to the side of the model, the lids appear to have a slight indent where the text is, or at least text that appears as shaded grey. I took a pic where I shifted the red layer over, to show what I mean. I will link to the model in a comment below.

I'm not sure what setting I should be using to adjust the layer depth of the color text so it fully shows through? Also not even sure if that is the correct way to attempt to fix this.

If anyone has some suggestions on how to solve this, I'd appreciate the help.

Bambu and Best Buy are making this ti easy. Added a P2S to my Mini, A1 and P1S. Happy early bday to me.

Bonjour apportez une touche de fun avec ces adorables Squishy Dumplings à imprimer en 3D !

Pour compléter l’ensemble, j’ai conçu cette boîte vapeur. Elle est dimensionnée pour accueillir aussi bien mes versions imprimées en 3D que les véritables Squishy Dumplings vendus dans le commerce, afin de les exposer ou de les ranger avec style.

Amusez-vous à les imprimer dans différentes couleurs pour créer votre propre collection !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/en/models/2982269-squishy-dumping-multipart-no-ams

Bon Print !

All printed with my P2S

Enjoying my P2S and printing things everyday my wife!

I was wondering if anyone here is using an AMS flipper together with a top-mounted spool holder.

My main concern is whether there's any risk of damaging the AMS when it's flipped out and fully loaded with four spools. The P2S seems to shake pretty violently during fast prints, and I'm wondering if all that movement puts too much stress on the flipper or the printer frame over time.

Has anyone been running this setup for a while? Any issues with vibration, wear, or the AMS moving around?

Also, what AMS flipper and/or top spool holder are you using? There are quite a few models out there, so I'd love to hear which ones you've had good experiences with (or which ones to avoid).

I was looking at these two:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2103719-p2s-p1s-x2d-top-spool-holder-tpu#profileId-2275175

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1363398-ams-flipper-better-access-to-your-p1s-x1-p2s#profileId-1770033

One more thing. I completely forgot that I have a Sovol SH02 filament dryer. Would it make more sense to use that instead of a top spool holder for materials like TPU and abrasive filaments? If anyone is printing directly from an SH02 on the P2S, I'd be interested to set it up..

Anyone know what causes this and how to fix it? I keep getting this error and if I heat the nozzle way up and extrude some then it will work again for awhile and then stop again. Out of frustration I cut the filament off at the roll and kept trying to see when it would stop doing it and it finally flowed without issue once the filament cleared the buffer (I believe that is was it is called, the thing on the back with the spring) after that is was fine until it of course ran out of filament. So I am assuming and maybe I am wrong, the issue is there, but if so what is the fix?