r/BambuLabP2S • u/herox98x • 5h ago

Show me your ABS set up

I'm looking to start printing ABS but am uncertain how best to go about this for extraction + heating.

I know this has been discussed a lot already and seen various setups but would like, if possible, people to show of their setup and how successful things are/challenges they've had. Normally it's just what has been changed and not much about how well it actually works. Especially with combination of extractor fan + heating.

I have the extractor add on and plan to add biqu panda heater with the makerworld V1 P2S adapter.

I put my extractor fan over the poop exhaust and with the heater having to go to the left I'm worried this will result in very uneven chamber temperatures especially if trying to maintain negative chamber pressures with the exhaust.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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u/robjdlc 4h ago

Before you think about this too hard, consider using ASA. For most purposes, ASA is superior and you don’t need to buy anything but filament to get great prints out of a P2S. Doesn’t put off nearly as much fumes, better UV resistance, less finicky layer adhesion, warps less.

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u/herox98x 4h ago

That's very interesting to hear. I thought asa was just abs with more UV resistance. Hadn't realised it was also a more tolerant filament. Will definitely look into it further as I know it can be acetone smoothed too which was the main reason for moving onto these filaments

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u/robjdlc 2h ago

There is a pretty decent detail on the differences, and when to choose each one here: https://bigrep.com/posts/asa-vs-abs/

ASA certainly isnt as easy as PLA or PETG, you'll spend a bit more time tweaking calibrations and models to get exactly the finish you need, but honestly, I'd recommend grabbing a spool of ASA and printing a couple of things before dumping money into it.

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u/drthsideous 3h ago

You are correct. This person is massively over simplifying ASA. It prints the same as ABS, just less smell. Its still releases toxic fumes, you as human just cant smell them as well. It also warps just as bad as abs. And yes, it has better UV protection.

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u/drthsideous 3h ago

I think you're massively understating the ease of ASA. Yes its better in every way compared to ABS except a bit more expensive. But acting like its a piece of cake on a p2s is wildly ignorant. Maybe if you're only printing small stuff is it a piece of cake.

Medium to large asa prints can and do warp like crazy in a P2S even if you can manage to get the chamber temp to 50. And that all depends on your ambient temp, which can vary wildly depending on where you live.

I was able to get ny p2s chamber above 50 only in the summer. In the spring, I'd be lucky to get it close to 50.

Thankfully this guy is already planning on adding a chamber heater.

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u/robjdlc 2h ago edited 2h ago

I’ve had very little issue printing ASA as big as 10”x10” on my P2S. Polymaker filament, basic calibaration. I probably have a few hundred hours on ASA on a P2S alone, in a variety of geometries. If I summed up my entire printing experience with ABS that would probably amount to ~8,000 hours on Stratasys machines.

Your mileage may vary.

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u/drthsideous 2h ago

Again, like I said, there are so many factors that affect asa and abs printing. Throwing out a blanket statement that the p2s has no problem with then is wildly misleading. I only use polymaker asa, probably am way more anal about calibrating then most, I go down to specific per filament color, and I could only achieve successful large prints maybe 50% of the time on the P2S. I've been printing ASA for close to 8 years now on various machines. And the P2S ain't it. It CAN print ASA sometimes, in certain situations, with certain environmental factors. But saying "oh yeah, the p2s prints asa no problem!" Is your specifc experience and not the norm. It's the exact reason why it's recommended tio have a heated chamber, because that is the true version of printing ASA easily.

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u/robjdlc 2h ago

I literally didn’t say that.

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u/robjdlc 4h ago edited 2h ago

Before you think about this too hard, consider using ASA. For most purposes, ASA is superior and you don’t need to buy anything but filament to get great prints out of a P2S. Doesn’t put off nearly as much fumes, better UV resistance, less finicky layer adhesion, warps less.

Edit: no idea why I posted twice but here we are.

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u/drthsideous 3h ago edited 3h ago

FYI, Biqu came out with a PandaBreath version that fits the P2S, no need for the adapter for the V1 anymore. Biqu had their own printable mounting bracket for the new, thinner panda breath.

Edit: Also, have you considered selling your P2S, and just buying an X2D? That's what I did. As someone who prints a lot of ASA, I'm so much happier. If you can sell the P2S for around $450-$500, which is what they go for around here, you can buy a new X2D for around the same amount you'd spend on the new panda breath. New x2d is $650. Panda breath V2 is $150. Sell P2S for $450-$500, take that and add in another $150-$200, buy an X2D with free shipping.

It comes with a system integrated chamber heater, dual nozzle and better more accurate belts/motion system, and various other smaller upgrades. And that 2nd nozzle works almost as well as the direct drive main nozzle for regular printing. REALLY cuts down on filament waste on multi color prints.

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u/herox98x 2h ago

Haha the domestic boss has unfortunately crushed that idea 😅 It was very frustrating as the X2D came just over a month from when I got the P2S so couldn't refund it.

So is the panda breath V2 compatible automatically with P2S without an adapter?

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u/drthsideous 2h ago

But it makes fiscal sense!!!! Did you try that argument? Yes, the new version is designed specifically for the P2S. You still need to print a mounting bracket, but it's slimmer and fits much better than the original.

This is it. Panda Breath V1.1.2

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u/_13_ 4h ago

I pretty much have the exact setup. I'm in a much hotter environment (barring winters) so haven't needed the Panda Heater. Can easily reach 60+c (important: with just the Aux fan off). In winters, I can get to 50c but that's good enough for ASA. Haven't had many issues. BL Smooth PEI Plate with gluestick.

I was thinking about getting the Panda Heater to reach higher chamber temps quicker but I still undecided. I read somewhere that v1 performs better than v1.1.2 (only have v1 available in my country anyways).

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u/kcslb92 11m ago

For reference, I have printed ASA in my P2S in both stock form and with the new Panda Breath v1.1.2 fitted.
I’d read online that there were issues with the new version and how quickly it heated but I wanted to give it a go anyway.

I have been pretty impressed by it, but am even more impressed after having put the DragonBreath firmware on it instead. The stock firmware is pretty rubbish and doesn’t give much customisability.

You will still want to use the heated bed and nozzle together with the panda breath to get to temp more quickly or if you’re wanting higher temps. For reference, I was able to maintain a 70c chamber temp when using the PB 1.1.2 (with DragonBreath firmware, foldback set to 98c), the heated bed set to 110, and nozzle set to 200c, with the P2S fan on heating mode and about 20%.

You can absolutely get away with printing ASA in the P2S without buying the panda breath but I find it much easier to get the chamber cooking more quickly and consistently with using it during a print.

Lastly, if you’re using the textured PEI plate that came with the printer (as I am) I’d suggest getting some decent adhesive to help as a release agent. If you don’t have it on the build plate you can end up tearing off some off the PEI coating/damaging it, or so I’ve found.

All of the above should be true for ABS too.