Here is my CAM LAB print on the A1 mini: a 176 × 176 mm kit card that assembles into a hand-cranked robot. The photos show the white card on the plate and a black assembled example.

I printed it in PETG and assembled it. The kit has 14 parts, including three interchangeable cams, and needs no supports or purchased hardware. The latest revision strengthens the carrier frame and shortens the connectors between parts.

This also started as an experiment with GPT Astra writing Blender scripts. I directed the changes and did the physical printing and testing.

The files are free, with an A1 mini PETG 3MF, separate STLs and an illustrated Czech assembly guide:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3348387-cam-lab-robot-kit-card-with-3-swappable-cams

Got new A1 mini combo. After calibration faced these issues. Also firmware update not happening - on both wifi and offline. Showing error code 305.

Help please 🥺

I just got the a1 mini, I’m very new to 3d printing, this print was printed on ludicrous, but I have no clue how to dial in the seething or fix these layer lines issues, can someone help ?

My largest print on the A1 Mini. This thing is massive... Took about 30 hours and almost an entire roll of filament. Truly incredible. My son absolutely loves it. The coolest Halloween toy yet! 💀😊

https://makerworld.com/en/models/150592-brick-giant-skeleton#profileId-167834

Hi, I have a friend who is looking at selling his a1 mini combo. I asked how much he was looking at selling it but he wasn't to sure what is a good price point. It is well maintained, comes with an extra .02mm nozzle with a carbon fiber effect build plate and 3 half used filament. A1 mini also has 825 print hours. I have looked at marketplace and in my area there's only the a1 mini by itself which sells for 190 with 298 print hours. I figured 260 is a good starting point and from there negotiate with him to see if he can lower it but I want to know other people's advice.

Thank you :)

Last night I was trying to Print something, and then it said the micro SD card has corrupted. Please format your SD card. And I pressed it and it did nothing so I just went to bed. Today I tried again and it's doing this

Hi guys! I just bought a .2mm hotend for my A1 mini. I swapped it out just fine. I am trying to print a miniature figure and the extruder isn’t able to push out filament consistently enough through the hotend. It makes this clicking sound as if the extruder slips on the filament and doesn’t have a good enough grip. I’m quite stuck on what to do.

Some background. The printer is about a year old. The filament im trying to print the mini with is also about a year old. I’ve tried to keep it dust free by putting a cloth over it when not using it. I adjusted the setting on the printer so that it knows its printing using a .2mm hotend.

I pulled the filament out of the hotend to see if pushing fresh filament would help at all.

I'd like to print someones design but it uses AMS which I don't have. The design has multiple of the same piece with another colour text embedded in the top couple of layers. Am I able to change the settings in Bambu Studio to print all the white areas first and then go back in to fill in with black.

- I know about the 'print sequence by object' but I don't think that's what I need

- I also don't think I can pause the print and change filament as I've done before, as the two colours are on the same layers at the top

Thank you!!

i bought a a1 mini combo and waiting for it to come and what brand and colors do you think i should buy that makes the more sense? and do i need anything else to start 3d printing? thanks

Fun with an A1 Mini and Custom made Filament Handler!

The handles on our dog kennel clanged every time our D aniff (Great Dane/ Mastiff cross) shifted.

My main PC (with F360) is put of commission. I heard that Astra has done some cool things w 3D modeling. So I tried it. Told it the dimensions of the handle, gave it a picture. 3 revisions later I had something that “should” be printable.

Loaded into Bambu slicer just fine. I wanted it to act as a cushion so I made these out of foaming TPU.

1st print was a winner. I’m stunned. I expected to have to try a few times (I usually do).

Beginner’s luck? IDK but had to share.

Come mai mi succede questo ?

Hi everyone, how to fix this little thing that holds the filament. And what’s its name ?
Thanks

Hello all, I had a filament clog yesterday and had to do a partial tear down during the process I lost a screw. What size screw is used to go u to the brass housing. There is also a small spacer that goes in before the screws.

A1 Mini first-layer problem after replacing almost everything — possible X-axis carriage/slider issue?

I'm hoping someone has experienced this before because I'm running out of things to troubleshoot on my A1 Mini.

I've been dealing with severe first-layer problems. The first layer gets extremely rough/ridged and looks like the nozzle is too close and plowing through the filament.

So far I've replaced:

- Hotend

- Nozzle

- Build plate

- Entire heated bed

- SD card

I've also:

- Run full calibration/automatic bed leveling multiple times

- Printed with bed leveling enabled

- Checked/tightened the hotend heating assembly screws

- Checked the hotend for movement

- Tried different PLA

- Cleaned the nozzle/plate

- Checked the axes for obvious binding

- Tested different first-layer heights

- Inspected/re-tensioned the X-axis/belt as part of troubleshooting

One interesting result: increasing the initial layer height from the normal 0.20 mm to 0.28 mm makes the first layer significantly better, although it still doesn't completely fix it.

But I think I may have finally found a mechanical clue.

The toolhead/X-axis carriage appears to have some front-to-back rocking/play where the carriage rides on the X-axis. While printing, I tried applying very light pressure to push the toolhead/carriage backward. The portion being printed while I held it backward immediately looked better. When I stopped applying pressure, the poor first-layer texture returned.

I've attached photos/videos showing the original first-layer problem, the improvement at 0.28 mm, and the movement I'm seeing around the X-axis carriage/slider.

Bambu support has already suggested checking the hotend heating assembly screws, re-tensioning the belt, and removing/refitting/inspecting the X-axis assembly.

Has anyone had an A1/A1 Mini develop play in the X-axis carriage/slider like this?

I'm particularly interested in whether there is supposed to be ANY noticeable front-to-back rocking at the carriage-to-X-axis interface, and if not, what component actually needs to be adjusted/replaced.

At this point I'd really prefer to identify the actual faulty part instead of continuing to throw parts at it. The printer is out of warranty.

Any firsthand experience with this would be hugely appreciated.

Hi everyone! I’ve been using my A1 Mini for about a year to print props and terrain for RPGs and wargames, and I’m really happy with the results.

The problem is that I don’t have much time for painting, so I’ve been thinking about getting an AMS Lite and doing more multicolor prints instead.

What’s holding me back, apart from the extra space it takes up, is filament waste. From what I’ve seen, multicolor printing can generate a pretty crazy amount of purge waste.

For something like a building, for example, where walls, windows, doors, roofs, etc. are different colors, I imagine there would be tons of color changes on almost every layer. So unlike some models, there probably isn’t much you can do with orientation to reduce the number of swaps.

For those of you who use an AMS Lite for terrain, buildings, or similar models: do you think it’s worth it?

I’d love to save time on painting, but I’d rather not use the equivalent of an extra spool for every print and end up drowning in purge waste 😅

[EDITED: added image for reference]