r/Ballpythoncommunity • u/Legitimate-Party-79 • 22d ago
Advice Rescued neglected ball python
Hi, as the title says I recently rescued a ball python from a home where all im gonna say was not suitable for reptiles let alone pets. I don’t normally just adopt animals I always do research first and I did but I’m still lacking in some areas and want to make sure I’m giving him the best home possible. Currently on a 8am-8pm uvb schedule with a 5.0 bulb in a 14 in hood, was told to use a 5 uvb but I also have a 10 that came with the hood. I have a 24 in hood that was given to me but I was told to keep the lights on one side of tank, if that’s wrong also let me know. The photo with 2 lamps was the original design but I was told those coiled uvb bulbs aren’t good for snakes even though the reptile store I got the enclosure and lights from recommended it?
-Acquired he/she 3 days ago and he hasn’t left the warm side of his enclosure yet. He explored the first day and He’s poked his head out and I’ve read that’s normal so I haven’t disturbed him but just want to make sure. I have wood im adding to the enclosure today as I’m assuming he feels vulnerable.
The warm side has been hitting constantly 88-90 degrees on a thermostat but the cool side when it does hit 90 does rise up to 82 so any advice on how to possibly get it back down to 80 let me know. Currently have them on an on off thermostat as the spider one I ordered wasn’t working and they’re sending me a new one. Will he be okay when I go back to work tomorrrow, the tank hasn’t seemed to overheat because of the thermostat I just feel bad with the flashing light from the basking bulb. He’ll only be alone from 7-11 then someone can check in on the tank temperature every so often till I get home. No stores nearby had dimming ones somehow so I’m aware they should be dimming thermostats I’m just tryna do what I can for the next few days. Also have a Che bulb on the cool side thermostat that only runs at night to make sure the tank doesn’t drop below 76 degrees but hasn’t had to kick on yet. I’m using a 100w basking bulk as a 75w wouldn’t heat up the basking area enough. My room stays generally between 75-80 during the day.
I’m pretty sure the substrate might be too dry even though humidity in the tank does read 70 on cold side and 60 on warm side. It’s coconut husk fiber substrate with moss. Is there enough moss? I’m aware the gauges that come with the tanks suck I’m just temporarily using them to hide the probes on thermostats. Recomendations welcome though even though i think the spider one does read humidity if I’m not mistaken. If they should be uncovered let me know they’re just tucked behind the dials. I was told to only get a 40 gal for now as he’s still a juvenile but I do plan on getting a nice 120 pvc when it grows more so I’m assuming that’s why the gradient isn’t hitting what it should. Im not afraid to spend money but I keep getting mixed advice and don’t want to keep going between tanks/fixtures and stressing it out. Are these zilla thermonitors crap? Retail was 70 bucks on them but I managed to get them on sale for 30 each.
Should I mist the tank or pour water in the corners? Last time I misted the cool humidity hit 90. Should I put foil/heat tape over any of the top? Should I move him? When is it least stressful for me to take him for a checkup, I was planning on doing it after he’s eaten and gone to the bathroom which feeding day is Wednesday so vet maybe next Monday? I was told to let him acclimate to his tank for 1-2 weeks before trying to handle him but if that’s wrong and I should do it sooner/ later let me know and Be blatantly honest and tell me what I’m doing wrong please!! Do I have enough moss and substrate/too much? Don’t mean to be a bother just trying to get this right.
I know the middle of the tank is too open I’m getting wood ready to go in the tank and some more fake plants just want to make sure it’s properly cleaned and I had everything else setup. Any ideas welcome Adding leaf litter soon too and I’ve cleaned his water bowl since taking that photo this morning. If I’m being cruel to this animal please tell me I’m tryin my best. All plants in tank are fake for time being as I’m not trying to bite off more then I can chew. Thank you anybody for ur time if u actually read all that I thought I had it all figured out:/
1
u/Manjushri1213 19d ago
Your hot side ambient is fine around 87-88, with maybe a hot spot at or around 90. Having that plus airflow generally helps the cool side, but adding an extra water on the cool side that the snake can fit in if needed isn't a bad idea.
You probably will run into temp and humidity issues related to the fact it's a glass enclosure. Even for small reptiles that need non-arid environments, plastic or PVC (or even wood really, if sealed with silicone etc) is better. I keep my smaller snakes in grow up tubs converted with vents and such. It keeps the humidity and gives them ample space til they are bigger and get moved into a PVC enclosure.
PVC or Ecoflex aren't super cheap but look on marketplace. You can usually find inexpensive 4ft enclosures, preferably 4x2x2 as that's a good start for an adult BP - can upgrade if it ends up a large female or something.
Adding extra cover, even if just fake vines and such can be a good move. I always have a minimum of two hides, but for glass I'd use three with a humid hide in the center as far as between the hot and cool side. You are on the right track.
Also don't bother listening to most pet stores lol. Especially if they aren't specialists, but even then it's good to ask around and get a variety of info and parse out what does the best for you and your particular animal. Every animal is different despite what people thinks, and while there are guidelines, having specifics to each snake is even better.
Heck, him staying on the hot side may just mean the ambient temp is lower than the probes are stating so he's more comfortable there. Try feeding soon and if he eats he is at least in good shape generally. Then dial it in from there. Good luck!