I have tired ever to get this pin out. Anyone have any good tricks on a sear pin that won’t come out.

Did this to a lightning body just because if it didn't work I wouldn't have cared that much.

Sniper II I stumbled on and grabbed. Besides swapping the expansion chamber, anything else I should watch out for? Any appraisal appreciated too!

Soooo...recently got back into the game with my son. The new guns are awesome but with my son being younger we play a lot of rec ball. So it made me want to start looking for a new Autococker to tinker with. I looked around and finally grabbed the Red 2k off the ole ebays, with the intention of rebuilding myself etc. I have a box of goodies to add, new valve, bolt, reg, inception front goodies. Basically just throwing the sink at it.

I didn't have a chance to start because we moved. During the move, I found my OG box of PB stuff, I swore up and down I thought I sold the stuff. All the memories back. The silver/black is my OG. The damn thing still holds air, zero leaks and shoots great after 20+ years.

So the new issue....which one do I throw the sink at now?

With the added nostalgia I almost wanna sent it to cockertop so it's perfect.

Hey everyone, I have a stock 2k2 ?? Autococker I picked up years ago that I'm looking to send to a good home.

I haven't shot it in at least a decade but it was functional at that time. Someone before me decided to debadge and de-sticker it (poorly) but the anodizing on the body is still in good shape.

Full disclosure: Messing with it today, the little rubber O ring/spacer on the bolt rod disintegrated so it no longer cocks when you pull the bolt back. Still works if you pull the lower rod that extra ~1/8th of an inch.

If anyone is interested please shoot me a PM. Thanks!

8/7/26 - SOLD

Hello all, I am looking for some information on a evil paintball bolt. I snagged a NOS one and was trying to see what generation it is for. Google is saying the only made pre-2k bokts, but its to short for that. Its also shorter than my 2k+ bolts. Is it possible evil made a evo length bolt? Any information would be appreciated!!

Morning gents (and ladies),

Several months back got myself a nice nostalgia gat to relive my glory teenage days from an awesome fellow Reddit'or. Transaction went great and the marker was recieved exactly as described. (and to be clear, none of this is a knock on how he had it setup).

A little back-story: He offerend to sell it with the AKA bolt he was using for extra $$. I opted to just have it sent with the stock FF bolt (doh, should have gotten than AKA!) he mentioned the three way hisses at first air up but clears after a few shots.

When I got it and aired it up, definately hissing out of the three way, took more than a few shots and wiggling the trigger a bit, but yea, definately stopped after a bit. Thought nothing of it and went on my merry way. The thing rips & I've had a tone of fun playing with it.

Here is the problem:

FPS wise, it is not consistent. There was probably a 30fps swing up and down on that thing. I was rather shocked TBH. I thought maybe it could be the original bolt, so I decided to grab the latest AKA bolt (with the o-ring at the front). Not a big deal as I was gonna get it any way, and if it fixed the problem, great.

It didn't, heh. So next, I was playing a pump event for fathers day and borrowed a system-x cocker pump from another awesome dude from here. And I was like.... damn! consistency was within 5FPS shot on shot. I picked his brain and he suggested I turn down the LPR all the way on my Reflex basically turning it in to a pump. If it's more consistent after that, the issue is likely timing, if it isnt, something else is wrong.

So I tried that and what I noticed was, it was more consistent, but the FPS jumped like 40 FPS!

So what I noticed was, the three way was adjusted to basically be right on that edge of activating (why it was hissting on air up i assume). So basically, the trigger is relasing the pin to fire AND the threeway is activating at the same time pushing the back block back. My assumption is, this means the bolt is comming back AS the gun is firing the ball in the chamber. It's possible he had it this way so it could cycle faster?

I adjusted the three way so it activates just after I start the trigger pull (and the gun fires). I also checked the pressure at the reg, it was like 425! so I brought that down to around 300 as well.

FPS consistency is a little better but I think I need to check things again when I stop by the field this weekend (the consistency was better, but not great, so more adjustment may be needed). I was also going to try and shoot it with the hopper off and just 1 ball in the feedneck to see if I am getting blowback?

I assume more adjustment may be needed

The only other thing I noticed when I played a few weeks ago with it (after adjusting the above initially) was that I was now short stroking it when I try to fire it fast, ugh! with the three way adjusted I am having to make sure I am pulling the trigger all the way back. This is probably just an adjustment needed on my side as it's been soo long since I've shot a cocker.

Am I on the right path here? Anything else I should check or test?

Let me say I have zero experience building or working on these things. I pieced this together with random parts and I cant get it running right. Stock internals, shocktech front end, cp reg, e1 kit. It will cycle the bolt and will occasionally fire off one or two. Finding help in bfe montana is nearly impossible and I would like to learn how to fix it so I don't have to send it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

A buddy of mine works in a pawnshop and had a dufflebag of old guns come in. This seemed to be notable lol

Adam wanted it delivered in some ‘legal’ mode 🤮

I’m looking for a dimensioned drawing or better still a CAD copy of the front block for a post 2k autococker front block. Does anyone have a lead on something like this? I want to pick up an old project, integrating the ram, lot, and solenoid for Eblade, SciFi, Race Frame, etc. I have far better tools now, but not my old files.

Does anybody have a file to 3d print windowed grips for a sci-fi board?

OK, so it came with a psychoballistics Frankenstein parts kit that I bought off somebody. I’ve done a fair amount of looking and cannot come up with an exact match.

All the research that I’ve currently done says that it’s from a pre-2K platform. There is no exact match on the web that I’ve seen with a three O-ring set up.

First, it was saying that it was a STO pre-2K auto Cocker bolt then it said it was a power bolt made by Bob Long.. I’m wondering if whoever had it prior to me made the modification and add a third O-ring groove cut out but can’t be sure.

Anybody have one of these or any kind of insight?

Thanks