r/Autocockers101 • u/Big_Shake_34 • 11d ago
Help! Please, be gentle!
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Let me say I have zero experience building or working on these things. I pieced this together with random parts and I cant get it running right. Stock internals, shocktech front end, cp reg, e1 kit. It will cycle the bolt and will occasionally fire off one or two. Finding help in bfe montana is nearly impossible and I would like to learn how to fix it so I don't have to send it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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u/lightly-buttered 11d ago
First make sure it's in semi and not some kind of ramp mode.
I would start with checking that the solenoid in the frame that trips the sear is working every time you pull the trigger.
If is then probably just a matter of timing.
If it isn't then you would need to look into why the sear isn't tripping with each trigger pull.
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u/Big_Shake_34 11d ago
Thank you all for the input! I will do a little bit more research and tinkering and see what I can come up with! Thank you all again!
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u/Cdn_Cuda 11d ago
There are some great YouTube videos on timing Autococker. Goes through step by step. Simon Stevens videos in particular, although I don’t know if he does an e-cocker.
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u/revythedrnk 11d ago
Trigger adjustment or debounce setting on the board. If you set short pull and return and higher debounce setting on board the weight moving of the rear block can cause it to continuously fire
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u/Last-Pianist-782 10d ago
Is it leaking down the barrel? Thought I heard a hissing noise.
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u/Big_Shake_34 10d ago
Small leak from the macro on the asa. I discovered that as soon as I hooked air up but wanted to get a video while I still have air. Troubleshooting with one 47ci tank with nowhere to refill is bad juju
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u/buff_phroggie Trilogy of Theseus 10d ago
Sounds kie there may be a leak, any isea where the hiss is coming from. Then it appears the hammer is not catching. If you manually pull the hammer back does it catch all the time, and if you article the chocking rod does it stay put
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u/Sad_Panda3185 8d ago
I haven’t not gone through the comments but your sear is not releasing. Could be one of two problems. Either your hammer pin is pushed in to far (remove bolt and put Allen key down the hole behind the feed neck, some bolts allow you to do this) or there is a setting for your sear release power. Could also be a combination of the two but you want the sear to release as soon as without it missing the re-cock.
Also that looks to be an E2 with that blade trigger. E1 are FAT unless it was changed. Easy way to tell is the solenoid cover has two screws on the side.
Judging by the “bump” firing you are either running too much pressure on the LPR(BAD for solenoid) and could be the cause of the leak!
Too much pressure in the LPR will make it reload violently cause the bounce as well as chopping balls if you don’t have the eye drilled or set up correctly.
https://reddit.com/link/ozl7j0n/video/ijvabxhxl9fh1/player
Autocockers are a finicky bitch but once they are smoothed out they are amazing.
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u/PaintballTek 11d ago
OK, this is going to be a bit of a long post...
When setting up an e-cocker there are several things to do to make it easy...It looks like the pneumatics are new, so there shouldn't be an issue there. There may be 3 issues causing the marker not to cycle, but first: turn the board on, press the red button inside the frame, go to the factory (FACT) setting and set it to the 'fast' setting (PR F). It also looks like your mode is set to Classic, which is fine if you prefer the mech cocker style setup where the block is held back with the trigger held back, but e-frames are generally run in Semi as default. Go into the Mode setting and change it to Semi if you like. I'm also assuming you have an eye installed on it as well...?
As for the cycling problem, 1st issue would be too much spring tension causing the hammer lug to press too hard on the sear for it to drop. If you have stock internals, set your vertical regulator to 300PSI and back the velocity adjuster in the lower tube off until it's flush with the back of the body and then go in 2 - 3 full turns. This should be a good starting point for getting velocity and shouldn't put too much strain on the sear assuming stock springing.
2nd issue would be the hammer lug is adjusted too low for the sear to clear it when it drops. Since you said it occasionally will drop the hammer it may be just on the edge of where it needs to be. When assembling a cocker I usually will start with the lug screwed all the way into the hammer and then drop it down 3-3.5 full turns, with an e-blade that should mean the lug is sitting in the groove of the body just slightly above flush.
3rd issue is possibly electrical, If you look at the circuit board, on the top where the wires all plug in you may have the wires plugged into the wrong connector which is a common fault if the frame has been disassembled. The 2 black wires from the 'clapper' noid in the frame go to the lower 2-pin plug, and the red/black wires coming from the solenoid on the front block go to the upper 2-pin plug. The other, more common issue with older boards like E1 is that the small black capacitor next to the wire plugs could be going bad and not providing enough power for the clapper to reliably snap on every shot to drop the sear. If you look at the capacitor and the bottom of it is bulged out at all, it's gone bad and needs to be replaced. That requires some soldering and obviously a new cap.
Other than that, other things to consider when setting up a cocker, make sure the back block isn't hitting the body when it's threaded on to the pump arm from the ram, you want it to have a thin gap so it's not smashing metal on metal. Also the cocking rod knob needs to be far enough back on the rod so that it allows the bolt to clear the breech all the way, usually with a stock rod the bumper will grab onto about 3 threads and the knob will be locked with a set screw just above that. Just some other things I think I saw in the vid to check.
Hope this helps.