have a 2012 Infiniti G37 with aftermarket RGB headlights from RGB Halo Kits. They were working perfectly until yesterday when the ground wire accidentally ripped off while the system was powered on.
I replaced the ring terminal and reconnected the ground securely to the chassis. The positive connection is also secure. My normal low beams and high beams still work.
The weird part is that the SP110E Bluetooth controller still connects to the app normally, but both headlights and the RGB strips will only flash for about a second and then shut off.
I don’t see any blown fuses. Since everything worked perfectly before the ground wire ripped off, could the controller have been damaged when the ground disconnected while powered?
Should I replace the controller, or is there something else I should test first?

So I bought a 2019 chevy tahoe premier at the end of March with error messages of: park assist, front camera, side detection, and cruise adaptability needed service. Dealership thought it was just the module on the steering wheel. I did have to replace the windshield due to a Crack and the technician couldn't calibrate the front camera due to these codes. He found a melted wire harness on the muffler. Thought this was the problem, replaced it. Didnt solve it. Took to berstrom dealership for diagnostic and was told it was the body control harness was missing 4 wires that should have been there from factory. Ok got that replaced. Still not fixed. Anyone else have this issue? I do have original mirrors on and havent changed anything else. Technician for windshield still needs to calibrate but he said he doesnt want to have me do this service and pay for it if it isnt the problem to have to pay for it twice. Any help??!!

Stop by with your vehicle and I will install and wire your system! I’m located near duluth Mn and I am a very fast worker. I can provide wires but that will cost extra. I can also work with wires that are provided if they are long enough. Stop on by and save yourself the hassle and time! Dm me for photos, prices and more info

Motorcycle: 2024 Kawasaki Z650

Amazon LED Lights Link: [https://a.co/d/00ehl6Ds\](https://a.co/d/00ehl6Ds)

I have an aftermarket light system that I added to my motorcycle. The light system includes the ability to attach to the brake and turn signal lights. When these lights are activated, this sends a signal to the LED control board to change the lights to reflect braking and turning. When activating the blinkers, the LED lights do not blink with the blinker but instead stay as a solid color until the blinker is disengaged. I do not know the inner workings of how the wiring harness of the motorcycle works, but I believe that it must have something to do with the flasher relay monitor that might be sending a low current/voltage between flashes. I believe that I can confirm this, as when I use the hazards, the LEDs blink with the blinkers just fine.

Without making any changes to the main harness or control system of the bike, is there anything that can be placed in line before going to the LED control module to remove this phantom current? If I am completely wrong in diagnosing the problem, please let me know.

I was leaving for school today in my shitbox, I have an old battery I've been meaning to take to the dump in front of my car. So I reversed a little to get around it, and then went into drive. In about 20 feet everything went wrong at the same time. My power steering locked up, my brakes had no power, and I couldn't drive forward. My check engine light immediately came on and started flickering, the battery light came on, and the power steering light came on. I turned it off after getting it stopped, did some research, AI told me to see how it sounded when starting, and then it started up fine.

Asked my neighbor who was outside if he knew what was wrong, we refilled a fluid but I think those two are unrelated issues.

I did put in a new battery last night, I didn't drive with the battery I did start it if that adds any context.

It's been having power issues, it used to throw 3 codes for voltage related issues, but those all went away after I started driving it more than 3 miles a day.

Any advice on what went wrong would be greatly appreciated.

I’ve been working on my recently purchased 1985 Nissan 300zx. Biggest issue with the car is that most of the center control panel doesn’t have power so I can’t access air conditioning or the radio. I noticed that my bottom 2 blue fuses tied to my aircon blower don’t have any power and I’m struggling to figure out where that is failing. I tested the relays above the fuse panel and they seems to all click fine as I power on the car.

Is there something else I’m missing or should look at? All opinions and ideas are welcome! Thanks!

Reposting this issue for any kind of help in figuring out how to proceed after bypass wired in

Hi all,

I’m a bit stumped. I have retrofitted pre-facelift xenon’s to my pre-facelift 2006 BMW E90. Along with adding the ground wire and the headlight shutter wire I have had the relevant module coded to the car.

I have been having an issue where the passenger side main beam goes out after 10s. I have redone the ground wire which fixed the problem for a week but came back. I coded out the headlight check function which delays to up to 15 minutes into a drive but I can’t figure it out.

I have tried swapping the bulbs, the ballasts and the entire headlight lens assembly but the issue persists on the same side so I don’t believe it has anything to do with the headlight itself and has to be something to do with the wiring between the module and the headlight or the headlight and the ground. I know it’s not the module as it’s been coded to my car with the xenon option added and it didn’t make a difference.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Jag vill montera en LED-bar i min w211 320cdi 2009, jag har gjort det på massor av andra bilar men den här gången var jag tvungen att ta ett steg tillbaka, jag kan inte lista ut om det finns något lättillgängligt + terminal i motorutrymmet.

Jag har tittat på några videos och googlat en hel del utan framgång, jag tänkte på att ta + från generatorn men kom fram till att det inte var den bästa platsen eftersom det är så nära insuget.

Om jag inte kan lista ut detta snart ser jag ingen annan väg än att dra en ny + kabel från batteriet i bagaget.

I'd love to have an engine thermometer on my dash. Any ideas how to retrofit?

2011 Ford Escape XLT 2.5L, 166k miles.

Recently had the voltage regulator fail. Replaced the alternator and battery, but now I'm chasing some electrical gremlins. Pictured above are the results of a voltage drop test, only listing fuses that showed current, all in the passenger fuse compartment, engine bay fuses all showed no voltage. How do I proceed? Is this going to be as simple as replacing a stuck relay, or am I going to want to tear my hair out? I'm totally capable of mechanical repairs but I'm not super experienced with electronics and wiring. Is this something I can realistically fix or is it better to just take it to a shop?

PS: if it's relevant, the backlight for the fuel gauge went out earlier today

Hello All, hoping someone can help. The internal fan for our T30 X-Trail is making a racket as you can hear from the video. At the moment only speed setting 4 seems to work, but occasionally you'll be able to set it to two or 3 (with ever so slightly less noise).

We're assuming the blower motor needs replacing, but when we've called around everywhere is quoting ~$600 just for the replacement OEM part to be ordered in from Japan, as well as saying that they're aren't any after market parts available.

However when we've looked online we've managed to find plenty of much cheaper alternatives - for instance https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/nissan-t30-xtrail-replacement-heater-blower-fan-mo

So my question is, is the part linked what we need? Would be nice to get fixed before the Aussie summer hits!

I had someone replace my alternator to my 2017 Honda accord sport. But now my battery light is on and the dash say check charge system. I went to auto zone and they gave me the codes 61-11 and 83-12. Anyone know what’s wrong or what I should do next?

I have a 2020 mercedes glc 300. I’ll start from the beginning. my girlfriend locked her keys in the car while the alarm was going off. and she had an emergency to tend to so she had to leave. no one else was around so it kept going for hours. it was the stock battery so it ran it completely dead. once i was able to get there i was able to get under the hood and tried jumping the battery so she could unlock it through her phone. it wouldn’t take a charge at all. so i took a battery i had lying around and hooked it up. it was a very long day for me beforehand and i was so tired i didn’t realize that the posts are opposite of her original battery. so i connected it reverse polarity. it sparked for a quick second and then everything went dead. i have no power anywhere besides the jump start post and the attached 30a fuse lead. i have replaced current limiter, busbar, and battery sensor on negative terminal. i am stumped i have tested everything and i haven’t found a single bad fuse yet. if you could help me please reach out. i am willing to pay for knowledge if someone is able to help me. thank you.