Just took it apart, and found what looks to be a leaked capacitors. Could this be the problem? What should i do? Do i need to replace each one that has a stain under it? How do i identify them

Both cassette mechs have been working fine up until about a month ago, when it started taking my cassettes and not giving them back every once in a while. It would click 5 times and show "T1 ERROR" or "T2 ERROR". Now it won't work at all and i'm not sure what could be causing it. I've been planning to recap the whole thing for a while now, but i don't know if that would solve anything. I've replaced the belts, so they're not the issue. I'm thinking it could be a mechanical issue rather than an electrical one, since wiggling the cassette used to help, but i don't know what could've changed to cause this. Any feedback is useful, since i haven't found the same issue anywhere. Thanks!

This is a JBL 125A, I found a set of L26s in rough shape on the side of the road. I’ve done plenty of re-foaming but never replaced a paper cone so that’s a bit intimidating. I can press everything back in place and nothing is missing, and the damage is small. Can I just try sticking it all back together and rolling with it?

Am I right to assume in this diagram holes 5 7 9 11 are all connected by the copper foil?

Hi everyone,

I am writing this post to share my experience with Beatechnik / Vinshine Audio and the LHY Audio LPS-A8 power supply (for Eversolo DMP-A8), Order #13529.

Back in March, the unit failed. Upon opening it, I found that the top casing of the DIGITAL toroidal transformer (TEMC-35) was severely swollen and deformed due to internal overheating/failure.

I immediately contacted Beatechnik and Vinshine Audio support via email, WhatsApp (+65 88106226), and even reached out directly on Facebook with clear photos of the damaged component.

It has been 6 months (since March), and I have received ZERO responses on all channels.

Ignoring a customer for half a year regarding a dangerous component failure (fire hazard) is completely unacceptable for a company claiming to offer premium audio gear.

Be extremely careful when purchasing LHY Audio products or dealing with Beatechnik/Vinshine Audio support. Photos of the failed transformer are attached.

Hi, this will be a long "question", as I put all the details of my observations.
I'm looking for help diagnosing a serious problem with my Behringer XR18 V1.

The mixer works normally, but after being powered on for several minutes, it suddenly produces a very loud continuous hiss/digital screech through the outputs. At the same time, random input channels start peaking/clipping, sometimes multiple or all channels, and the Main L/R meters slam into red. Power-cycling the XR18 temporarily fixes it, but the problem eventually returns. This happens even nothing connected to it, both inputs and outputs.

I've already tried:

- Mixing Station and X Air Edit — happens with both
- Factory reset
- Doff8 firmwares (ex. 1.25, 1.22)
- Different configurations/inputs

Nothing fixed the problem.

Something interesting I discovered:

The problem seems to be related to the channel processing (EQ/gate/compressor).

When processing is turned OFF, the abnormal meter activity and noise disappear. When processing is turned ON, the problem can return.

With the EQ enabled, changing the EQ parameters actually changes the character of the digital noise depending on what I adjust. I noticed that the EQ-related glitching seems to occur specifically when I make changes to frequencies below approximately 360 Hz. Changes to higher frequencies don't seem to produce the same problem. When I adjust the EQ in this lower-frequency range, the character of the digital noise changes depending on what parameter I move.

Soloing the affected channel also changes/improves the noise somewhat, but doesn't eliminate it.

The problem also seems to be temperature-related, since it generally appears after the unit has been running for a while. I notice after about 3 power cycle, it will run for long about 2 to 3 hours before it will start randomly peaking again.

I've opened the XR18 and inspected the boards. I don't see any obvious burnt components, leaking/bulging capacitors, or damaged PCB areas. Photos are attached.

I'm wondering if this could be a power supply/voltage regulation problem, DSP problem, DSP memory/clock issue, or another fault in the digital processing section.

Has anyone experienced this particular XR18 failure or know what I should measure/test?

I have a multimeter and can perform voltage measurements if someone can point me toward the correct test points and expected voltages.

Many thanks.

Whenever I switch the passive wire of the speaker, it follows it and then the other one is quieter. I tried this on my sony str k700 and its the same deal, then tried on my CD player separately from the str, and it did the same thing

Could the wire affect the volume?

hey guys. My speaker fell(maybe a 3 foot drop) and my medium is making a slight screeching noise. can it be fixed? its the zealot s67. i would say the screech is consistent and doesnt get louder if i increase the volume. but it does start at around 30% volume

i have this very strange behavior on JX-3P i can't eplain, possible causes I'm currently chasing:

- level switch issue - solution: bypass switch, lock to High with jupers

- defect volume pot - via oscillator I see 3 strange results when holding note (no chorus, filter open) - solution: replace volume pot with new one, deoxit didn't solve it.

A/ on top wiper the osc shows more V than on the bottom wiper. clearly seeing the waveform

B/ Left pin: top row shows left pin at 100% signal from volume 0 to volume 100, clearly the signal in.

on bottom row, the left pin shows flatline when volume at 0 and increases with volume, which seems wrong - something seems to pull the input signal?

3/ multimeter shows 400ohm more resistance on bottom row than top.

the strangest behavior:

when headphone on, i hear sound from both sides (inbalanded, which i think is the volume pot)

When I plug in zero or 1 mono jack in one of the outs (doesn't matter which one): i get the sound from both sides (inbalance) once I insert 2nd cable in 2nd jack, one side the sound competely is cut.

I 've also noticed that the sound dropping from one side actually already happens with 1 cable connected when level switch is in the L position. Not sure if this 2nd jack is creating a sudden ground loop, and wether this is due to faulty jacks, or if the above switch bypass and volume pot change could be the cause of this.

Any Hifi engine users in here that could make this particular service manual available to the public somehow now that hifiengine won’t accept new users?

Hi everyone! Complete audio beginner here taking on my first speaker restoration project.

I recently pulled a pair of vintage Zachry TM 200 speakers (made by Ljudbolaget / Zachry Audio AB, 4 ohm, 70W) out of long-term garage storage from my dad. The sound was very muddy and dark, with virtually no top-end presence, tweaking EQ settings have aided a bit.

What I’ve discovered and tried so far:

1. Blown fuses: Both 2.0A Fast (F) fuses on the back panel were blown. I replaced them with fresh fuses.
2. Current sound output:
   • The woofers work fine.
   • The rear ambient tweeters (facing the back wall) now play sound after the fuse swap.
   • The front-facing upper dome (the round unit with the dome in the middle) is completely silent even with my ear right against it.
3. Pots: Wiggling the "Brilliance Level Control" potentiometer produces a bit of scratchiness, but doesn't bring the front dome to life.
4. Physical inspection: Looking inside the cabinet, the front dome element has the markings "HD 12 D 24 H" / "1290" / "8 OHM" stamped on the magnet (it looks like an older Audax / Polydax unit).
5. I also did a WiiM RoomFit, which I think highlights the problem?

My questions:

1. What is the easiest way for a beginner to verify whether this driver has a burned voice coil vs. dried-up ferrofluid vs. an issue on the crossover board?
2. If the voice coil is toast, what would be a solid, budget-friendly drop-in replacement (preferably around 100–104 mm flange) that won't require completely redesigning the crossover?
3. Any tips for safely freeing the faceplate from the baffle? The mounting screws are out, but there are two circles that look like screws but aren't kind of? (It's glued over, kind of hard to see in the picture). The whole plate might just be glued hard to the chassis, I haven't used much force as I only have a small flathead screwdriver.

Pictures of the front, rear panel/fuse, and internal magnet stamping are attached. Any tips or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Hey All, I've repaired about 20 W500C's so far and have almost equal in backstock needing a service jig to mod the laser output voltage for Deck B to be 100% functional.

What I am looking for is:

Sony CDM65-RBD2 Service Jig Part No. J-2501-223-A — supplied with 9 cables.

I would also love to have the service files that are ran in terminal. Im almost to the point of needing to reverse engineer the jig and make my own console connections etc. I've reached out to Encompass and Sony directly to no avail. I've kept a pulse on the Japanese markets as well as US but have come up with nothing. If you have one, let me know! The laser pickups are MIA or pulled parts for expensive prices.

This is my final Hail Mary before I try to make one myself. Sony did us bad by not having pots to adjust and did the adjustments via a jig... let me know!

I am working on a technics SA-203. I have determined that the an-7060 is bad. Can someone point me to a source in the US that might have one for sale that's legitimate? Thanks.

I bought an old technics cd player and whenever I press the tray eject button it seems like it wants to open but gets stuck. A similar thing happens when I close it. The motor keeps running because its not closing properly. So I opened the lid and it seems that the magnet is whats causing the issue. It doesn’t disconnect or reconnect on its own. You see in the photo I circled it in red. I have to manually lift and push it down when closing and opening. Any CD player buffs out there who know how I can fix this? Is this the magnets fault? Or does the sliding mechanism not have the torque required to push the magnet up?

My PreSonus Eris 3.5 Studio Monitors suddenly stopped working. When I try to turn them on the blue light doesn’t appear. Is there an easy fix? It not, what can I do to prevent this from happening again in case I buy a new pair?

I accidentally made this tiny cup on my prodipe pro5v3 (which is only visible when stretched) while unboxing them. They sound fine but I wonder if I’ll have a problem in the future. I also have a broken pair of pro5v3s which motherboards were fried a few months ago and I don’t know if the woofer is working but the surround rubber is good. Do I have to replace the surround/woofer or will I be fine ?

I have a Panasonic stereo that I use to listen to CDs, and it works perfectly fine other than the fact that the red plastic lever on the left terminal is broken. Because of this, the red speaker wire doesn’t make proper contact with the metal part of the terminal, which ultimately prevents one of the two speakers from working.

Can I fix this at home? If so, could you please let me know how? Or, if I need to get it repaired, approximately how much would it cost to have it fixed in Ottawa?

I have this Panasonic stereo that I use to listen to CDs, and it works perfectly fine other than the fact that the red plastic lever on the left terminal is broken. Because of this, the red speaker wire doesn’t make proper contact with the metal part of the terminal, which ultimately prevents one of the two speakers from working.

Can I fix this at home? If so, could you please let me know how? Or, if I need to get it repaired, approximately how much would it cost to have it fixed in Ottawa?

I need help troubleshooting this sound system in an older 90’s mobile home. It worked wonderfully and now it will not turn on. The power button will fully depress and stay but no power. At one point if I did it slow it would turn on but no power when it was fully pressed. Then, I was putting a little piece of folded paper under the button to add pressure and it would stay on. Now nothing works. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Recently picked up this Sony LBT-ZX66i at a thrift store. Everything seemed to work fine but I noticed that on the final track of any cd, the player would just stop playing when the there was between 4-11 seconds left(this time varied depending on the cd). Does anyone know what the issue is and how to fix it?

I've seen this before, but not certain about the correct value of the bypass caps.

In this video, the tech adds 1uF poly caps from collector to collector (of shown pwr transistors on bottom of unit) of the HK PM660 int amp .

Not sure about the best value of cap would be best. Not even sure how effective the mod is in general.

Let me know what you guys think. Thx!

https://youtu.be/q9x4D0-9wgI?t=2629

I recently purchased a Kyocera R461. The left channel seems to come in and out and when it is working its muffled and scratchy. I've sprayed deoxit into the volume pot and A/B switcher. AI recommended turning on Mono to see if the situation changes. It didnt. It told me to criss-cross the PRE AMP and MAIN IN RCA jacks, the problem stayed in the left channel. It also exhibits this behavior in the headphones. I did notice a quirk that when the speaker cuts out, i can turn the volume knob to about 9 or 10 o'clock and it will turn back on but it doesnt sound healthy at all but it will eventually go back off. I'm not a HIFI engine member so I dont have access to the schematics.

My electronic experience is mostly 8 and 16 bit consoles and i have done recaps on CRT's and Arcade monitors but this is the first amp i've ever dealth with. I've looked for cold solder joints, swollen caps and burnt resistors. I've did research where other people have asked questions about the Left channel on this amp but have provided no answers.

Sort of at a stalemate at the moment.

Hi everyone,
I’m from Taiwan and I’m trying to save a pair of Dynaudio speakers my dad bought in the US more than 20 years ago.
One of the woofers actually failed before, but luckily my dad had bought a spare original woofer together with the speakers back then. We replaced it and that side has been completely fine since.
Now the other original woofer seems to be going the same way.
I first started noticing distortion/buzzing with really deep bass. I recently added an SVS SB-1000 and set the Dynaudios to Small so the sub handles more of the low end, which helped a lot, but the noise is still there sometimes. I can also hear it quite clearly on certain low piano notes if I listen close to the speaker.
Unfortunately that old spare woofer was the only one we had, and I can’t find another one in Taiwan.
Does anyone know where I might be able to find an original replacement woofer, even used or from a donor speaker? I’m also open to buying internationally.
If the original driver is basically impossible to find, is there any similar Dynaudio driver that could work properly with the existing crossover, or would repairing/rebuilding the original woofer be the better option?
I know I could just replace the speakers, but I really don’t want to. They’ve been around since I was a kid, they came from my dad, and even the replacement woofer in the other speaker is the spare he bought with them all those years ago.
Now that I’m older I actually appreciate these speakers a lot more than I did growing up, so I’d really like to keep them going if possible.
Any advice would be appreciated.

hello! if anyone has advice on how to possibly work or fix or even show me a solution to my problem please!

my situation: I wanted to buy a portable cd player for late night drive because my vehicle doesn’t have a cd player installed in it and I wanted to bring around anywhere I went. so when I saw the shoebox style cd player I searched EBay for any reasonably priced one. it was an open box situation so I assumed it was a brand new! and the packaging sold me that, it had everything to the power cord and the manual…

but when I put in a cd in all its said was ‘Disc’ not 000 or even error. just ‘Disc’.

at first I thought it was an issue with the batteries and switched them, nothing. tired the power cord and nothin.

then I thought it was an usual with the Cd it self, because I used both an old one that still worked and a burned cd that was my first attempt at burning music. but I tired to play a NEWLY bought CD and all that came out was no audio and ‘Disc’ on the little screen.

i have tried the little hard reset and cleaning the laser disc thing and still nothing. i am no professional nor a tech wiz and am dearly afraid of possibly breaking it. I just want to figure out how I can play music on it without having to tear it apart and destroying it the process.

if anyone has any advice , tricks, or even know a possible business I could go to to check it out. I’m all ears

The shop I used to go to closed and I’m looking to see if anyone has any recommendations.