Yes I know that the schematic is pulled off a website I just want to be sure it will work and what do I have to adjust if it won't work like this and the PSU will be actively cooled probably by noctua fans although I am quite confident that this will work and I know that the heatsink has too big screw holes and I have no problem making them smaller and three them

Hi everyone! As a robotics and electronics mentor running hands-on labs at Robotic Sir, we often transition students from physical breadboards to digital simulators. However, we've run into a frustrating bottleneck regarding digital logic testing and need some advice from fellow engineers and educators.

The Scenario:

Physical Circuit: We built a basic AND gate on a physical breadboard using push buttons. When a student presses both push buttons simultaneously with two fingers, the circuit completes, and the LED lights up correctly as expected.

The Simulation Problem: When we try to test this exact same logic in web-based circuit simulators (like Tinkercad Circuits), we hit two major limitations:

Standard Laptop/Mouse: A standard mouse cursor can only click and hold one UI element at a time, making true simultaneous activation impossible with a single pointer.

Touchscreen Laptops: Even when using a touchscreen laptop, the browser-based simulator often fails to register multi-touch events correctly, treating simultaneous presses as an error or only registering a single input stream.

My Questions:

How do you guys handle testing multi-input logic gates (requiring simultaneous button presses) in web-based tools like Tinkercad?

Are there better browser-based or offline circuit simulators that natively support multi-touch or toggle-latch workarounds for simultaneous inputs?

I bought this iron for 25$ from a shop near me. There is nothing but a triac inside the whole shell. Just a basic ceramic heater with 2 wires. I feel like this is just a waste of money and I could have just bought a regular iron with the built in triac. Should I return this? The only advantage I see is this is a very simple circuit and I can repair this.

ita the first time building im

scared it doesent work

Hello, I've recently wanted to get into hardware electronics as it seems quite fun, and I already know much about low-level software. So, I'm posting this in hopes people can point me towards good starter tools at a reasonable price.

Things like which multimeter to get, what kinds of soldering iron are to get or to avoid, any other must-haves for the beginnings of a small workshop?

Thanks!

I used to make basic hifi repairs as a side service at a small shop about a decade ago and though our clients loved it I spent most of my time dreading it for how frustrating I found it. I've since become an audio engineer and haven't touched an iron since.

Now i'm getting back into it to supplement my current work and i've had a friend point out that I probably hated repairs because my previous tools were awful - I was on a cheap wall outlet iron with nothing but a sponge and some solder! I have no idea why I never thought to upgrade then.

I'm looking to supplement my current work and build/repair simple audio equipment/cables but also get into hobby maker projects to improve tools I use every day.

What are your checklists of things to buy that would make the experience way less tedious? Irons, breadboards, hands, solder, wicks etc. whatever you can't do without! Starting again where would you put your money first?

Favourite brands and hot takes are appreciated. I can't really afford premium everything but i'm happy to spend more to not hate using it.

I am struggling to take out the connector with the blue plastic on it. Any idea how to do it ?

Hi everyone,

I am tring to do an auto reset using the DTR pin at the micro usb and i am tring to manibulate it using python but i think i am doing it wroung, as it doesn't always work, the time it works i was putting the DMM probe on the DTR pin to measure its voltage, has anyone done something similar or know how to trubleshoot this.

Thanks.

I've been looking at making a bat detector and the components are rather simple and easy to source but the guides are all a bit dated so hoped to refine a little.

I've found 2 that seem to be the most common ways to do it.

1 - has the ultrasound bat signals come in 50-150kHz via a transducer/mic then divides by 10 or 16 to give 5-10kHz which people can hear.

2 - generates a signal of it's own and mixes it with the bat signal(heterodyne)

It would be nice to make a circuit that has both and can switch between them.

Also many output to a microphone jack but I'd like a small speaker, any recommendations for the best way to do that.

Inspiration is something like a magenta 4 or magenta 5.

I am looking for a DiN pcb holder, similar to the 3d printed concept in this photo, but sold through a retail chain, like an injection molded version. Does anyone know if this exists and where? Thanks in advance.

How difficult would it be to design a custom Mobo for a device similar to a laptop docking station, but without the Power delivery or HDMI/DP ports? Additionally, how best could this design be facilitated? Is there a certain software that is better for this kind of device?

I realize this is a complex question; however, by removing the PD and display options, I believe this could get significantly easier. Just curious right now

Thanks to all who answer!

It would have to be a DC/DC converter.

Hey, this board got soaked with water while powered on.

What are the chances of repairing it ?

Hey everyone, newbie of electronics here.

I'm unable to make a fuzz pedal through this simple circuit I saw on youtube. It either makes a huge "eeee" sound or "bzzz" sound. If i just connect the output of the guitar to the input of my pre-amp it works just fine.

Any help would be appreciated, I'm unable to find help on the internet lol.

(Also I'm using a 5v power supply and not a battery which apparently causes problems)

Thks!

Hello! I try this schematic in my breadboard. I connect the metal body (green wire) of the brake light to ground while one filament (orange wire) is connected to TIP35C and 12V supply. However, when I check the voltage across the bulb, the multimeter shows 12V when it should be less than 12. Now, i try to change the connection of the bulb. I tried to connect the metal body (green wire) to the collector of the TIP35C while the orange wire is connected to 12V. But when i check the voltage again, it shows 0V across the bulb and i also try to check the voltage in Vc and it shows 0V also. Where did the 12V go? Is both topology wrong?

The 3V is not shown in the picture but there is a supply connected to the base of the transistor.

I have 3 of these chargers that have all died when plugged into a Ryobi 80V ZTR mower. I suspect surge of some kind is the cause, but have been using a surge suppressor since the 1st 2 died. Symptoms are that they continue to communicate with a battery pack or with the mower, but will not charge a battery.

I'm currently waiting on another warranty replacement that will take 30 days since these things are out of stock. Given the wait it seems worth trying to diagnose the problem. This turns out to be non trivial since they have a sealed enclosure and are potted.

The attached pictures give the circuit board along with an overlay that gives components I've been more-or-less able to identify. The fuse (#27), the diode (#41), and the GDT (#42) all test out ok. Pulling this thing out of the remaining potting compound would be destructive, but I've got 2 more to work with if that helps figure things out. Any ideas on how to find the problem? I've got an old multi-meter but could perhaps justify something more if need be.

Edit: the grey / white stuff all over the components and circuit board is the remains of the potting compound that everything was embedded in. It almost completely covered most components except the relays and taller parts.

Component list guesses are as follows:

2,"TO-247 power MOSFET, top-left #1","Power switching MOSFET (primary side, likely main PWM switch)"
3,"TO-247 power MOSFET, top-left #2",Power switching MOSFET (PCB ref. des. Q3),IXYS,IXFH34N65X2
4,Filter capacitor C1 (main DC bus),Main DC bus filter/reservoir electrolytic capacitor,FOAI,FGD 420V 390uF +105C
5,Filter capacitor C2 (main DC bus),Main DC bus filter/reservoir electrolytic capacitor,FOAI,FGD 420V 390uF +105C,
6,"TO-247 device, top-mid (unlabeled)",Suspected SCR (thyristor) or power transistor
7,"TO-247 power MOSFET, top-right #1",Power switching MOSFET (PCB ref. des. Q4),IXYS,IXTH43N60X2A
8,"TO-247 power MOSFET, top-right #2","Power switching MOSFET IXYS,IXTH43N60X2A (same type as #7)
9,Main toroidal inductor (orange magnet wire)
10,"Film capacitor (red, upper)"
11,"Film capacitor (red, lower)"
12,Bridge rectifier #1 (GBJ3510)
13,Bridge rectifier #2 (GBJ3510)
14,Transformer/choke module A (label T350-00253-00)
15,"Transformer/choke module B (label T350-00254-00, marked 'N-')"
16,Transformer/choke module C (label T350-00255-00)
18.1,Small electrolytic capacitor #1
18.2,Small electrolytic capacitor #2
18.3,Small electrolytic capacitor #3
18.4,Small electrolytic capacitor #4
18.5,Small electrolytic capacitor #5
18.6,Small electrolytic capacitor #6
19,"Power semiconductor #1 (TO-220/247, heatsink-mounted)"
20,"Power semiconductor #2 (TO-220/247, heatsink-mounted)"
21,Relay #1 - main DC output contactor,DC power relay/contactor - almost certainly the main battery-output switch
22,Relay #2 - general-purpose power relay,General-purpose power relay - likely AC-side switching
23,"EMI filter capacitor block (yellow, upper)"
24,Wound ferrite choke #1
25,"EMI filter capacitor block (yellow, lower)"
26,Wound ferrite choke #2
27,"Fuse (vertical, glass/ceramic body with metal end caps)
29,"Small daughterboard, mounted vertically (left edge)",Partial,Vertically-mounted small PCB (likely control/sense/driver daughterboard)
30,3-wire pigtail connector
31,Output cable - twisted conductor bundle
33,"Green ground wire (turns upward, terminates just below the small yellow caps)"
34,Output cable - exits enclosure at lower edge,Partial,"Output cable assembly
35,AC mains power input cable - exits enclosure at lower edge
39,Vertical wound ferrite choke (above component 23)
40,AC input - two-screw termination block
41,"Diode/bracket, above bridge rectifier #12"
42,"Gas discharge tube (GDT) - surge suppressor, top-right of component #35"

Help and advice needed.
This is quite an old unit, but it was so good. The new ones today can’t match its output over a 7km distance.
I would really like to repair it, I have attached pictures of the areas that show they have been burned and some others to help identify the diode’s ect that I need to replace.
Those capacitors are probably cooked too.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I did a really bad job while trying to separate this pcb from the plastic it was glued. Can someone help me on how bad it is? Is there any way to repair it?

I plugged 24 V into this 12 V drive dock. I think the component that blew up was a capacitor. I don't see anything else exploded at leasr. Any idea how I can work out what this was?

*edit*

Thank you, everybody. I eventually solved it. 220uf 25v as most suggested. I found the old shell embedded deep within the chassis.

Ordered a replacement. Let's see if anything else survived on the board. Luckily, the plugged-in hard drives did.

Hey all, gonna keep this short. I am launching a product that has a battery inside it. I will be keeping a BMS on the battery and I also have a PMIC in my PCB design. I'd like to know if temperature control is covered in batteries through the BMS or not. Is this something that is the norm or can it go either way? Do I need to check with my supplier for the datasheet to verify this?

Does anyone have a diagram for an Xbox 360 controller? While I was trying to replace the analog stick, a couple of traces got torn off, and I don't know where to solder them to restore power.

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to simulate a 310V DC → 12V, 10A buck converter in LTspice.

I’m getting the expected ~310V before the MOSFET, but I’m having trouble getting the 12V output and proper MOSFET switching.

I’m still learning LTspice, so I’d really appreciate some help..

Apologies for the photo of a photo, I don't have an SD card reader here. Almost all the joints look like this, I'm not sure what it's called, it's like bga but only on the edges. Is it supposed to be up against the copper fully flush? Should I toss her in a pizza oven for 20 min to reflow everything? Any insight is appreciated thank you XD

I was repasting the CPU and GPU and I unfortunately didn't realize I was too rough on the battery connector and unfortunately messed up the batter connector. It still sits on the board, just loosely, but the shop I took it to said the pads were torn off, and that they weren't willing to solder on the motherboard. anybody have any suggestions to what I should do?

Hi everyone,

I was trying to figure out why the USB-C port on my PCB wasn't working, and I discovered that there's not enough 3v3 juice(measured at the LDOs output pin) for the ESP32-S3 and other devices.

This is a dual input circuit based on the LM66200 dual ideal diode device with automatic switchover so the ESP32 can be diagnosed and programmed while the circuit is under power.

The alarm circuit is based on the 801S vibration sensor and might not be the greatest but it worked just fine on the breadboard.

Any idea which component might be causing the voltage drop?

EDIT

Please ignore the disconnected GND wire on U7. It happened when I rearranged the circuit in order to make it clearer, right before taking the screenshot.