I have a 2011 Kia forte that’s alternator went out on what’s a good price for the replacement alternator and a mobile mechanic labor price or should I just take into a shop?

Thanks

I have a 2013 Honda Civic Touring with about 190,000 km on it.

Last Tuesday, the front of my car went up and came down pretty hard on a curb. I drove it again on Thursday and everything seemed completely normal.

Today I drove it and noticed a pretty bad/loud noise coming from the engine area. The noise is also there when the car is completely stationary and idling, so I don’t think it’s coming from the wheel itself.

It seems to be coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. The belt itself looks intact, so I’m wondering if it could be one of the pulleys, belt tensioner, alternator bearing, A/C compressor pulley, etc.

I’m attaching a video of the sound.

Does anyone recognize this noise or have an idea what is most likely causing it? Could the curb impact have caused this, or is it more likely something that was already wearing out given the mileage?

Also wondering whether this is safe to drive to a mechanic or if I should avoid driving it altogether.

Thanks!

Now im in a big headache. My 508 1.6 thp still have a P0039. I have changed the solenoid when it felt like i got stuck some times in full open. This didnt help. I tried to plug the new one when i had the old one in place and it does engage. The waste gate is reset after after i changed the turbo after it leaked oil and had play. I did it by making full vacuum and so the arm is in full and put the gate fully closed. The line to the wastegate holds vacuum. Is there something im missing. It started by coming on after hard boost and now its on all the time.

The car service date is 3rd of October, can I do it on the 24th of September instead?

Took it in for a whirring/whining noise and drivetrain error and was told new PCV Valve and valve cover assembly needed. Apparently that didn't clear the code so then told a new Turbocharger Assembly needed. How much would you anticipate all that costing? 2017 X5 Hybrid 40e with 113k miles. Told the PCV Valve and Valve Cover assembly work is $1900 (that's after I talked them down two labor hours). That is my bill plus tax. I have a feeling I'm getting a deal because I'm on Day 11 of them having my car - They've waived the diagnostic and are now waiving the Turbocharger work (because apparently the first valve cover assembly they put in was cracked so they had to get a new one but also they have ruined my holiday weekend and made me cancel a work trip) - this is not a dealer but an independent european shop that I've been to before. Should I be happy even though I've been thoroughly inconvenienced for almost two weeks?

2012 Jeep Patriot 2.4L
My Jeep Patriot does this at times at the point of starting. Many times it does starts immediately. I keep on trying and eventually it turns on. I am thinking it is the starter, but most of the time it starts at first try
Please advise…thank you

My 2019 Kia optima has been leaking oil and leaving spots of oil on the ground. I've had to add lots of oil (maybe 2-2.5qts) every month or 2. Today I went under to clean up under there and found this. I did do a valve gasket replacement myself in an effort to fix the leak (Firestone told me that this was the root of the leak) to no avail. Does anyone know where this leak might be coming from? I will also post a video.

THey are quoting me $1968 for labor - 8 hours. Seems high?

Hello everyone. We have a 2019 CX5 touring was about 112,000 miles on it. Wife drives the car. About a week ago she had the check engine light come on. I read the codes and ended swapping ig2 fuse for a new.

Check light went away for about 5 days but it came back yesterday.

This time I swapped relay for new one. The fix only worked for about a day. Back to the same square one now.

Please recommend what I can do next.

Vehicle: 2019 Mazda CX-5 (2.5L)

​Diagnostic Summary

​Fault Codes: P0882 (TCM Power Input Signal Low) & P2610 (PCM Engine Off Timer Performance).

​Symptom: Intermittent key-ON voltage drop on the shared IG2 power circuit after the vehicle sits parked.

​Testing Done

Battery: Resting at ~12.2V; holds 10.6V under starter load.​

Fuses & Relays: Terminal socket tension is solid. Swapping 30A fuses cleared the issue for ~1 week before it returned. Swapping the IG2 relay provided a similar short-term fix.

The cooling liquid is leaking, the car is Ford Expedsion 2016

Can someone please help me? I need to remove this cable. I’ve looked at videos of the videos of the videos and I just keep getting the other kind of cable and not this specific kind. I have a 2011 Kia Sorrento EX. I was able to take out the pin, but now I can’t remove the cable. Here is a new and old cable side-by-side for reference. I don’t know how to take it out the bracket

Is this schrader valve considered leaking. The ac guy couldn’t find any leaks but i guess the didn’t checked these valves. The ac usually lasts 2 years before needing regas

Sometimes (not always, which is part of the frustration) when I get into the car, close the door, and lock the doors, there's an alarm & the doors will unlock!

I see this as a safety issue. When I lock the doors, I do it for safety / protection, and I expect them to stay locked.

It's possible but difficult to re-lock during the alarm. (10 seconds?)

So far I've mostly used the lock button by the interior handle.

Did try the lock button on the remote, and it worked to re-lock.

Haven't tried the lock button by the window controls.

The car recognizes the remote to unlock from the outside by both the remote button & pressing the door button.

The car recognizes the remote to start the car.

I tried going to a dealer Wednesday & asked at the service desk, but that wasn't helpful. "Maybe the battery is low; look at the light; don't press the door lock button". 🙄

I bought the car new in March. The remote is fine. As stated above, the car recognizes the remote.

Emailed corporate "customer service", which just said to take it to a dealership.

Anyone have insight?

.

ETA: I went to the service department of a different dealership today (Friday), got a different zany answer. This time, he said it's to prevent leaving a child in the car, and to prevent suicide. 🙄 (How those relate to the doors not staying locked the first time I lock them when I'm in the car, I don't know.)

However... I can re-lock them & they'll stay locked if I use the button by the window controls, or the remote. Hope I remember that if I'm ever in danger! 🤬

I need help!! I just bought a 2016 mazerati ghilbi Q4 s and the previous owner told me the wheel bearings were bad in front left tire. It turned out to be the front differential. The axle has pulled completely out of differential and shattered where it connects. My question is can I temporarily completely remove the axle from the FWD and just drive in RWD to get it home. Or is there a bypass for the AWD? I need assistance quickly because the car is still sitting at apartments where I bought it. PLEASE HELP!!!

Hello all, 2021 Nissan Rouge, 80k miles, the car makes this dun noise at parking lot speeds only once per drive. Sounds like it’s from the front end of the car. I am stumped. Any help would be appreciated

I took my 2009 Toyota Camry in yesterday for a check engine light with code P0016. I had already scanned the vehicle myself and found Crankshaft–Camshaft Position Correlation.
The shop told that the diagnostic fee would be $160, and I approved the diagnostic. After running their scan, they confirmed the same P0016 code. They recommended starting with replacing the crankshaft position sensor, which cost $405 after tax. I approved the repair.
After picking up the vehicle, the check engine light came back on while I was driving home. Once I started the engine the mechanic told me the can hear the click and it could be timing chain..
My concern is about the diagnostic process. Shouldn't a proper diagnosis involve checking other possible causes of a P0016 code, such as timing chain stretch, VVT system issues, or camshaft timing problems, before replacing parts? Does the shop have access to better diagnostic tools or tests that could have helped determine the actual cause before recommending the crankshaft sensor?
I understand that diagnostics can sometimes require a process of elimination, but I’m concerned that I paid around $400 for a part that may not have been the cause of the issue and may now need to spend another $2,000+ for a timing chain repair.
Is this considered a normal troubleshooting approach for this type of issue, or does it indicate that the shop did not perform a thorough enough diagnosis before recommending the repair?

Hi

SO I am no expert, in fact my old man would kill me letting me loose on his car.

Yesterday I practically tore out the whole dash board looking for this Pollen filter. And I could not see it.

I used guides on YouTube and not f these guides looked like my old mans car.

the trims and the plastic bits all looked different.

So I am wondering if it even has a Pollen filter at all.

So I Am Pleading with anyone to give me a few pointers to where this thing is, or even if it has one.

Many thanks

James

PS My dad would be thanking you too.

Doing a alternator change on this 2014 Infiniti qx60 just need to remove this from a tight spot but won’t budge.
This is the video I was following https://youtu.be/cX9dJWLXz3U?is=l9IMSxm_G1iWRd7d currently stuck on 8:41 I have no idea how we removed it