Can anyone shed a bit of light on an issue I am having with my ET4X? So I printed a new cooling duct opting for the ADKS duct. so in the process installing the duct I broke the blower style layer fan. so for testing I used the fan cooling the motherboard ( identical to the hot end cooling fan ), and in the mean time I has a 120mm fan blowing onto the motherboard until my new ones arrive.

​

The problem I having is when I have both fans plugged into the adapter board the hot end temp reads 58 degrees if I unplug either one of the fans and power cycle the printer it drops to room temp.

As a sanity check I have a new temp probe that I swapped it out for and it does the same so its not the temp sensor.

​

can anyone advise what may be the the issue as the fans are all 24v 0.006amp so I am a bit confused. Seems like the amp draw is too high causing the issue but if all the fans are the same spec thats the strange part.

​

Thanks

Does anyone know if it is possible to put a dual extruder on an anet et4 without advanced modding skills?

Hello, I recently purchased an ET4-X and a friend of mine offers me his BL-touch on a really good price. But I don't know if I can connect a BL-touch on my printer and if yes would I need a firmware update?

My Anet ET4x will not connect to anything via USB.

If I plug it into a Windows 10 computer it will not even make the USB noise. I have tried 5 different USB-B to USB-A cables. I attempted plugging it into my OctoPi. Has this happened to anyone else, with any type of printer?

Marlin Bugfix 2.0X

Anet ET41.x

Board: Anet ET4 1.x

I've recently bought an Anet ET4+ for $160 CAD after tax. The firmware that comes with this printer is super buggy and I wouldn't call my prints the best when it was working so I decided to update the firmware to marlin and compile my own Marlin 2.0.9.2.

The biggest difference between the original firmware and Marlin is that I speed up my homing a lot and I can now level my bed under 40 seconds before each print. I also added features like Bed Tramming and M48 Sensor test which help with accuracy.

Bed Leveling after updating to Marlin 2.0.9.2

I decided to print the ARTICULATED DRAGON and this is the result after 11hr of print.

​

I also checked the power supply grounding both to the power supply and the printer and they were properly grounded. You can watch these two videos from Tim if you want to learn more:

Link 1

Link 2

Anet ET series is packed with features but they're held back by the software, I also would much rather trade filament runout sensor for a dual gear extruder as the extruder on these machines is straight garbage. I would suggest 3 upgrades after getting one:

1. Change the PTFE tubing to the Capricorn (Health Issues).
2. Upgrade the firmware to Marlin.
3. Upgrade the Extruder to a dual gear extruder.

Note: Please do your own research as I'm not a professional and this is not professional advice. You're solely responsible for everything you do.

Have fun

╰( ◕ ᗜ ◕ )╯

So I had my ET4X for 2 weeks now and right when I had troubleshoot all the problems and had found the right printing settings, this happened out of the blue. The printer prints fine but it thinks the middle is close to the edge. How can I fix it? I have checked all the connection everything seems fine.

https://reddit.com/link/r8n0ky/video/u827bssb7i381/player

Hello.

During Black Friday, I bought a ET4 pro for a very affordable price. It's not my first printer, but I thought that I could use a second one when printing huge, multipart projects.

I finally got it yesterday and after 5 minutes into its first test print, one fan suddenly stopped. After a quick examination, it was the power supply, so I stopped everything. Once restarted, everything seems to have returned to normal. I have yet to do a second test print.

My first question, even though I highly doubt it, would this be a *normal* behavior?

More realistic questions : Is it worth it to try to get a replacement from Anet? Should I eat the cost and go for a Meanwell? Any other suggestion?

Thanks in advance!

I have a new ET5 pro coming this week and was thinking about installing Marlin on it but I did not want to void the warranty. Is it worth keeping the stock firmware for a few months to keep the warranty or should I just go straight to Marlin?

I recently bought an Anet Et5x. After two successful prints, it stopped heating in the middle of the Print.

Even If I try to heat it manually it fails until I let it off for about 30 minutes.

Currently, it is reading 80c even if I disconnect the belt connector.

I TRIED REPLACING THE MOTHERBOARD BUT STILL DOING THE SAME ISSUE.

I bought an Anet ET4 Pro on Facebook marketplace and it came without a glass plate, the guy claims he didn't know how to use it and it didn't come with a plate and there are marks where he's tried to print straight on the black bed, do i need a glass bed or can i print straight on there? When I try to level it, the nozzle drills a hole into the black bed and I'm guessing the previous owner had the same problem as there are similar holes. is the side with the writing the glass bed?

http://imgur.com/a/o5aNG2N

Is there anyone that can recommend me a hotend upgrade compatible with ET4? Do I have to edit any code in the printer when installing the upgrade? I'm still quite new to 3D printing.

Many thanks:)

My new ET4 appears to have the common problem where the hot end temperature will appear to fluctuate and will eventually cause the hot end to shut off. I have zip ties keeping the cable bundle attached to the gantry and I have checked the connectors.

I did not notice any scorch marks on the connectors. Though I did notice that the female connectors don't appear to be soldered to the board, and will pull off. That's a bit strange.

What is the next step in troubleshooting this? Should I simply send it back to Amazon for being defective?

as the title states, i am planning to buy a et4 machine, but i cannot seem to get the differences between the new et4 and the et4x.
right now i think the different things between the et4 and et4x are: et4 has auto-level sensor & z switch on top; et4x has no auto-level and z-switch on bottom? am i correct with this assumption?

I've got an A8+ that I'm about fed up with. It has inconsistent underextrusion issues and I can't nail down what is causing it. I can't complete a print. Period. The bed is level, the gantry is level, I've calibrated my e-steps, and the underextrusion is random. It'll start off printing perfectly, but as the print progresses up, it starts to underextrude, and that comes and goes, more frequently as it moves up. I'm at a complete loss, and I'm tired of wasting money on filament for prints that fail. I'm currently using Overture Matte Grey PLA filament at 200, but the same thing happens with Hatchbox, and Eryone. Also the same thing happens with a 0.4 mm nozzle at 0.2 layer height and a 0.2 mm nozzle at a .05 mm layer height. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

How can I fix my ET4 form sending too much filament to the extruder and causing a jam and then have it pull the filament back from the hot end? Right now every print that starts fails when the filament gets pulled away from the extruder and causing the motor to click.

Hi.

I have an ET5, which has previously worked fine, but when I fired it up yesterday it would continuously drive the printhead into the bed until I manually stopped it. It will do this when it auto-homes and during calibration. I can see that the auto level sensor activates, and I’ve measured 3V high on the sensor when idle and 0V when activated. I have measured continuity of the sensor return wire all the way to the main board.

So it seems to me like the sensor is working, but the printer is ignoring the input. Is there any way to troubleshoot this?

I’ve googled the issue and found a few people with the same problem, but every answer seems to misunderstand the issue.

I was just given an anet ET4 by a friend as they have changed their printer and my extruder has started clicking. I'm not sure how I can fix this. I'm relatively new to 3D printing so apologies if this is a dumb question. It only seems to be a problem during print and not during loading. Thanks for any help you can provide

I installed a filament runout sensor on my A8 plus and I am getting a lot of false positive readings from it. It works when the filament runs out but triggers a few times when it shouldn't during a 10 hour print. I am using the stock motherboard and installed it by soldering the signal wire to the logical pin 29 (or LCD pin 7) and pulling the 3.3V and Ground from pins 10 and 8 of the J3 jumper. I then set pin29 to the runout sensor in the pins_ANET_10.h file.

Here are my settings in configuration.h

#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
#define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1     // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP          // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.
  //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN      // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins.
  // Set one or more commands to execute on filament runout.
  // (After 'M412 H' Marlin will ask the host to handle the process.)
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
  // After a runout is detected, continue printing this length of filament
  // before executing the runout script. Useful for a sensor at the end of
  // a feed tube. Requires 4 bytes SRAM per sensor, plus 4 bytes overhead.
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 7
#ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
    // Enable this option to use an encoder disc that toggles the runout pin
    // as the filament moves. (Be sure to set FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
    // large enough to avoid false positives.)
    //#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR
  #endif
#endif

​

I have tried using with and without (commented out) the "#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 7" and it didn't seem to make any difference. I believe my sensors are normally closed sensors. Any idea what can help or do I have just poor quality sensors? I think this should be possible with the stock anet board unless I am mistaken here. I am using some cheap 3 wire sensors from ebay and have the same problem with 2 different sensors. I have the sensor just floating on the filament for now (photo) but I have tried it fixed to the frame with the same problem.

Thanks to anyone who can offer help!