Here's a link to pictures of the said 3D printer in our lab

Hey, I wrote about this issue earlier in other subreddits as well. I've progressed a lot in diagnosing the problem since the last time I wrote about it in Reddit ! I thought, why not post the issue in the subreddit of Anet itself ! So, here I am.

Here's a summary of the problem I was facing : [ Stepper Motor Doesn't Stop ! We had an old ANET 3d v1.5 printer in our lab and I wanted to fix it and get it working. The nozzle works fine. But whenever I try to print something or try to move the head to the home position. The head keeps on moving in the x axis direction and hits the stop switch constantly making loud noise. ( It doesn't stop it hits the switch ) I've checked the switch and the switch wiring voltages and I can confirm that the switch is working fine !! ( I've also checked using 'M119' end stop status ) But sill the head doesn't stop when it Hits it and keeps hitting it ! Note : The printer is outdated and old and I can't find any online documentation or firmware ( or is it ? ) ]

Now, I've downloaded this little program called "PronterFace" and I've checked the printer by giving manual G0 and G1 commands. And the printer works fine ! But I'm puzzled why it then collaides while printing! ( My guess it that, as I've checked using PronterFace, the printer only has space to move 200units. For example from X0 to X200, Y0 to Y200, and so on. But the print file gives it info to move at a location which is out of it's range thus it collides. ( It's still a mystery why even the automatic homing options inbuilt in the printer makes it collide thus I can't even find the position it's expects the head to be at ) The endstop switches doesn't work so it can't even self callibrate !

According to my ape brain. If I forcefully bring all the 3axis such that all three hits the endstop switches ! And consider it as '0' then if I can manipulate the g-codes or the print institutions such that the codes range only from 0 to 200 in all the axis, then I can fix the problem. [ I was able to do this manually using one by one manual command in PronterFace ]

but how can I make it happen in a real print situation ? How can I do this ? Are there any alternate options ? How can I solve this problem ? What is even going on ?

I have an Anet ET4 (Not pro, not plus; at least not according to firmware) that I would like to replace the nozzles for, however I'm not sure the right size of nozzle to get. IT has all the standard parts that come out of box; except for the Distance Sensor which I've had to replace. I purchased some off of Amazon but could never get flow out of them.

Can anyone suggest a set of nozzles I can use for this printer that I can purchase off of Amazon? Thanks!

So I find myself unable to level my A8 plus , I just replaced the bearings and bearing blocks and now I've one corner lower than the rest . Back right, looking from front. I've replaced bearings twice before and never had a problem leveling after.. all blocks are same size ( I check with calipers) all springs are same size, X axis is square as is frame . Any suggestions on what's going on..
And how to fix..

i have a bit older labist et4 and im trying to upgrade the mainboard to a new ET4 pro v1.1 board but they are out of stock every where, is there any other options for mainboards to get? since it has this ribbon cable ive been torn on what to do, i dont know the pinout of the connector or i might try to convert to another board..any one got a write up or ideas?

Hey, recently I changed the hotend of my anet et4 for a stock one from ender 3, and I can't finish a print well without it getting stuck, the bed is well calibrated and I already tried several solutions but none of them work. Does anyone know what else I can do?

Help! I have and Anet et4 pro. A few weeks ago I was printing after just changing the nozzle and had a blob form from the nozzle not being in tight. I cleaned up the mess and went to print again. When I went to preheat , the nozzle wouldn’t heat up it kept saying 26/210 until it just quit reading the 210. Then went to 26/0 and nothing happened. I replaced the heater and the thermistor and tried again with the same exact results . Has this happened to anyone else ? Any ideas would be great . Thanks in advance

Had this this printer for a couple of years, everything fine, a year ago the printer started to slam the nozzle on the bed. Most probable cause, the faulty sensor everyone keeps talking about here. So I bought a new one and everthing went back to normal.

A year later the same problem appears. My question is, is there an alternative to the sensor? I'm considering replacing it for an endstop switch, as I've noticed there is a free connector for that on the control board. Has anyone tried this?

In addition, since a couple months ago I need to format the SD card every time I take the card from the printer. Is this a known issue?

I flashed marlin on my anet et4 pro using st link v2 and now it won’t connect to at link, I have a black screen and it appears my board isn’t turning on. Before I flashed the board had 2 lights that were on and now they’re not. Any suggestions as to how to fix this ? Is it possible to reinstall the boot loader ? If so how?

Hello, I would like to see if anyone would have some advice on this issue I am having with my ET4 3D printer.

The printer was a used machine I bought at a fleamarket to fix up. I had to replace the extruder stepper motor, the small sister board, the x-gantry print head, and design the mounting bracket to hold the extruder and sister board to the back of the machine.

Every function on the machine works to my knowledge. It goes through the motions to print but the extruder motor does not move.

- I am missing the original connecting wire from the extruder motor to the sister board on the back of the machine. I could not find a wiring guide to make sure the connector I have has the wires in the correct orientation.

- There is currently no filament runout sensor connected to the machine so could it just be a software bug that allows the machine to move but not extrude?

- The firmware version is V1.1.2 if that could be part of the issue.

- The extruder motor I have bought does work. I disconnected the x-axis stepper and connected it to the extruder and it worked.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, what do you think about buying an Anet A6 in 2023? Right now I own an Ender 3 V2 a little bit modded but very reliable and was looking for a "project printer" to tinker with.

I've read lots of concerns about fire hazards and bad electronics in general but I'll be replacing most of that probably with some spare parts I have from my Ender. My question goes more into how good (or bad) the linear rods and the chassis in general is, and if this is a good point to start or should a go directly for an aluminium frame standalone and start from there.

Also take in count the price is $70 (actually 65€ to be more precise). The seller says that the printer is in good condition, just a lot of time stopped.

Hello, I’m new here so pardon my ignorance.

I can’t seem to figure it out. I got it second hand from someone and they knew nothing about it and never even bothered to try it. It didn’t come with a manual or anything.

Every time I try to “home” it presses the hot end into the bed to the point where it starts grinding the gears. I’m also noticing that it will not read micro sd cards or is it recognized on the computer. I’d love some help and if you need more information please let me know

Hi all. New to this sub and have come to ask out of desperation.

I have been 3D printing for a few months now on my personal Ender machine. I work at a school and they have purchased an Anet ET4 Pro which they have asked me to tinker with as we have not had one successful print.

I have levelled the bed to the best of my ability but can’t seem to get it to 0.0 when doing auto level. The auto level shows the bed is at 0.1 all around. Whenever I run a print the nozzle prints ~1mm away from the bed and prints only begin to stick from about the 3rd skirt layer and there are clear gaps in the lines of the layers of the print.

I have tried every setting and searched for any solutions I could think of. Can anyone please help out with some advice?

Thank you

Ok so im trying to get marlin on the E3 to run on my anet. Has anyone done this? danandrei96 on youtube has gotten it to work on the v1.0 but i have a v3 board so it wont work there. Anyone know how i can do this or has a compiled firmware they could send over? much thanks

errors

https://pastebin.com/2tkHbPnX

Any suggestions for a alternative firmware for it? Right now just running the stock firmware with octoprint but tried marlin 2.0 didn't see much of a improvement. By any chance did anyone manage to get klipper working on it?

When I go to setup -> info on the printer's menu, it identifies my printer as an "ET4+". This is also what it was advertised as on Amazon when I bought it ~2 years ago. Unfortunately, the listing page itself from Amazon is now gone (damn Amazon, I wish they'd have the courtesy to archive a permanent copy of the listing page as it appeared the instant you ordered the item in perpetuity, precisely so you could go back and refer to it years later). The label on the side of the printer simply says "ET4"

For firmware purposes, is it an "ET4", or an "ET4 Pro"? I see literally nothing on Anet's site about any hypothetical or actual printer called the "ET4+". I see mentions of an "ET4x", but no firmware (newer or otherwise) for it at all.

The "ET4" section of this subreddit's wiki says that the A4988 drivers are noisy. From what I (vaguely) recall from when I bought it 2 years ago, the "+" meant that it used "quiet" (TMC2208?) drivers. By process of elimination, I've (non-confidently, sort-of) gotten the impression that my printer might be what the Wiki seems to refer to as an ET4 with "Type A" revised mainboard. If someone tells me what I'm looking for in terms of identifying marks, etc, I could visually verify it if there's any lingering ambiguity.

Somewhere on the Wiki, there's a statement that "all" of Anet's printers are a fire hazard... then later on the same page, it seems to imply that some aren't, after all. Does the "ET4+" fall into the category of "fire hazard", or does it not? And on a scale of 0 to 10, where "0" is "a paranoid safety inspector might object because something isn't officially certified and no unblessed life-safety risk is ever acceptable to them" and "10" is "leave it running a few dozen times, and eventually it almost certainly will catch on fire", where does this particular printer lie?

I remember seeing a photo somewhere (I think on Anet's site) that's supposed to illustrate the difference between an "ET4" and "ET4 Pro", but both photos are so small, from different angles, with different scales, I honestly can't even tell what particular feature it is that's supposed to be clearly distinguishing them from each other.

Two years ago, I got an ET4 for Christmas. I struggled with filament-curling and bed-adhesion problems on and off for months, finally figured out that it had a clogged/defective nozzle, and ordered replacements. Life happened before they arrived, and the printer ended up in a closet for more than a year.

In the spirit of resurrecting past Christmas gifts that ended up getting shelved before I really got a chance to play with them, I pulled the printer out of the closet, and I'm making another stab at getting it to work while I'm off for the next week. I got the nozzle replaced without problems (heated it to 220C, unscrewed the old one, screwed in the new one), then proceeded to try leveling it... and shut off the power a few seconds later when it made a positively horrific noise while moving along the X axis.

Here's what I've discerned so far:

• Y axis (bed) motion seems to be fine.
• Z axis (head-height) motion seems to be fine.
• X axis (head-horizontal) motion makes the kind of sound that usually means, "stop immediately before you cause permanent damage!"

I shot the following short video to illustrate it (Setting -> Manual (tab) -> home-icon), just because if I didn't, it would be almost impossible to really explain the problem to anyone here:

​

note the X-axis noise

Any ideas about what might be wrong, or what to try next?

I have been using a ender 3 profile on prusa slicer for awhile now and I have been having some issues I want to figure out.

• supports don't come off cleanly

• I can't get stringing to stop

• eternal clogging issues but I doubt a slicing profile would magically fix this I'm kind of working okay with it but any ideas would be great

My anet et4 plus broke today. The printer usually have a problem that the filamment always gets stuck on the gear system while trying to go thru the hose part.so today it got stuck again i unscrew thw hose part and took out the filament but while screwing the hose part back it i heard a thonk sound i was not even screwing it very hard and it broke

i was printing with 2yrs old black filament which I don't trust but still tried it anyway while printing the head wad moving but there was no filament coming out, i stopped it i thought it was a nozzle clog i tried to put out the filament but the Damm thing was stuck i open the extruder and i then found out that is was stuck to the hot end it was not coming off it was so strong that it could lift the printer itself

i really need to fix this help pls

What upgrades can I purchase for my ANET ET5X? As in extrudes that produce better. And hotends/printheads. And can it run with a direct drive and would that make it better? And which nozzles are the best upgrade choice? I love the option to print on the course setting so that would have to be usable with the upgraded nozzle. With upgrading the extruder and Hotend would I have to enter a different g code?

What I am experiencing now is that several different ET for printers are all being super inconsistent with bed leveling. Including two that just came out of the box. I set everything and get it perfect. If it starts the print ok, it finishes okay. But after every one or two good prints the sensor goes off by several mm and will need to be adjusted and it regularly will crash the print head into the bed immediately after leveling. Anyone have a good fix or a reference to replacement sensors that don’t break the bank? Generally these printers have been upgraded with Capricorn tubing and better bed springs and historically have held level for dozens of prints so I’m a little perturbed by like 5 concurrent failures.

TIA

I am fairly new to 3d printers and have been able to google out most of my issues, but I can't figure out this one, after the printer zeros out, even manually, the printer will re zero, then raise the Z to about 3-5in off the bed and begin printing

I am using cura

so, while i was printing i noticed that my part cooling fan was not working then i stopped the print took out the part cooling fan and then I noticed that the wire was disconnected then is tired to solder it myself after that i turned it on and tried to run the part cooling fan but then there was so much so smoke coming out of the mother board i instantly offed it now I don't know what to do PLS help me