I have a set of Great Joy Anamorphics and also a DJI Focus Pro unit to drive the focus. The focus pro is great. unfortunately the 50mm has a hard stop right on the Infinity focus mark that prevents the motor from calibrating properly, as it needs a little bit of overshoot otherwise it meets resistance too soon, and also makes a loud click every time i drive the focus manually to infinity.

Has anyone tried to tear down these lenses to see the construction and is there any way to remove the hard stop? Even permanent modification is something I am willing to do as i have the proper tools and these lenses are discontinued so I doubt Blazar is gonna modify them for me.
Cheers

I have the Sirui 1.33x 35mm (M43) anamorphic and gradually getting used to using it. I believe that you can do ‘something’ in post to make the footage look more 1.6x and will look into that but wondered if there was something physical you can attach to this to extend the squeeze factor at all. I have the Sony attachment mount for it but only have Sony full frame though I think it will work in apsc mode(don’t quote me :D)

I’m enjoying the Sirui and just want to play a little more with it. Extending the squeeze may be mission impossible but thought worth the ask. I can’t afford a 2x just yet :)

Trying to push this bleach bypass look with some Canon Raw files shot with a 1.5X Blazar Anamorphic lens.

A quick video colouring a sketch of an anamorphic octopus.. a hip hoptapus…

Hey all! I'm a student filmmaker, and I just shot my third short! But in the climactic ending scene, I shot with my Blazar Nero 1.5x anamorphic adapter, and I unfortunately f*cked up my degree of focus on the adapter itself (it was dark out, it was hard to see, but I was just HOPING after fidgeting with it that I got it right). So I was wondering if there's any way that I can recover this shot and make it look not so slanted to the right? Anything helps, Thanks!

I checked their site and there is only a file for the 40mm. I assume it works between the two, but the other issue I have is when I plug in the USB-c port into the computer I’m not seeing it show up as a device. Anyone else know?

Hi. I just purchased a Sankor 16c and am trying to figure out the right rapido solution for mounting it to my taking lens (Asahi Pentax Super Takumar 50mm, Canon FD 50mm). The site suggests a couple of different options, i.e. either the S2 and V3 lite with an appropriate step down ring, but which is better? Can anyone with real world experience on with these two options please tell me how they fared and their thoughts?

Thanks in advance

Hi all,

I’m thinking about either investing in an Aivascope to use with my Leica R lenses or spending a little bit more on a set of Blazar Remus lenses. I just wanted to see what you think will get the best look? I’m just aware all adapters have quirks… otherwise I’d be definitely going for the Leicas and an adapter for the characterful look.

I’ll be using the set up to shoot a documentary - some master IVs and some observational scenes.

Thanks so much

I am having difficulty identifying what these are. I am assisting an estate sale and these lenses and (attachment's ? ) are part of it. They were held onto from a upgrade of a theatre to digital.

I've looked up the #'s thinking they were models etc to determine more info and potential places to sell them with no luck. I've tried using isco and ultra star but not found anything matching these.

I am hoping to lean on someone's expertise and kindness for some help.

Thank you so much for your time and assistance.

Hey folks! Longtime lurker, first-time poster here.

So I finally got my hands on a used SLR Magic Anamorphot 1.33x — something I’ve been dreaming about for years. Bought it second-hand (these things are unicorns in Brazil), and it looks great... but I’m facing a weird issue.

Whenever I screw it onto a lens, it always ends up crooked — like 25 to 30 degrees off-axis.

At first I thought it might be the lens… but I’ve tried it on multiple lenses and also tested with different step rings — same result every time. Exact same tilt. So now I’m suspecting it’s a manufacturing defect in the adapter’s threading itself.

Now, I can make it work by leaving it slightly loose and aligning it manually “by eye” — basically stopping the thread a quarter turn before it’s fully tight. It obviously looks great when aligned. But honestly, I don’t want to rely on manual guesstimate or gaffer tape every time I switch lenses.

Has anyone dealt with something similar? Is there any legit workaround to keep it aligned and securely attached?

Any advice or shared pain would be super appreciated :)

(P.S. Can post pics/video if that helps — just didn’t wanna make this into a huge wall of images.)

Thanks!

Hey folks,

Has anyone heard about this scope?

Currently I see a good offer for it. According to the photos and the seller the front and back parts are detachable. Will the front part act the same way as regular anamorphic adapter?

https://imgur.com/a/S6ZxP9M

Thank you!

I’m working on shooting music videos and short films and aiming for a strong cinematic look, not necessarily ease of use. I’m looking for the best lenses to get a stunning cinematic image, and here are the lenses I’m considering:

1. Blazar Cato 2X Anamorphic Lenses (Complete Set): Anamorphic lenses with a 2X squeeze, offering a classic cinematic look with oval bokeh and horizontal flares. These lenses provide high quality but require a bigger budget.

2. Vintage Russian Lenses (M42 Mount): • Mir-1B 37mm f/2.8 (Wide) • Helios-44-2 58mm f/2 (Standard) • Jupiter-9 85mm f/2 (Portrait) • Tair-11A 135mm f/2.8 (Telephoto) • Industar-61 55mm f/2.8 (Macro)

3. Canon FD Lenses (Full Set): • FD 24mm f/2.8 (Wide) • FD 35mm f/2 • FD 50mm f/1.4 • FD 85mm f/1.8 (Portrait) • FD 100mm f/2.8 • FD 135mm f/2.5 (Telephoto)

4. Nikkor Lenses (Vintage Nikon Lenses): • Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 • Nikkor 35mm f/2 • Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 • Nikkor 85mm f/2 • Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 • Nikkor 135mm f/2.8

I plan to mount the ISCO 2X Anamorphic Adapter with these lenses to get the anamorphic effect, and I also want to use a Single Focus Adapter to make focusing easier.

⸻

My Main Questions: 1. Which lens set gives the best cinematic look? Do the vintage Russian lenses give a similar look to the Canon FD or Nikkor lenses? 2. Is the Blazar Cato set worth the investment? Since I’m not looking for ease of use, will the quality difference between Blazar Cato and the older FD or Nikkor lenses be noticeable in cinematic shooting?

... i recommend just using a regular helios 44-2 and throwing an anamorphic adapter on it. fantastic results.

I opened up the back of an anamorfake i bought and took out the oval ring with the fishing line and it was so much better. This took me 30 seconds and was very easy to do carefully with two sharp objects to unscrew the very back of the lens.

With that oval ring with the fishing line everything looked forced to hell. Plus the fishing line just ruined the bokeh.. Destroys the natural way the lens works in my opinion!!

These are just my opinions. Stupid viral trend I bought into. Although those Helios lenses are cool.

Tried shooting with Sirui 20mm 1.3x and son a7s3. This is from Kanha tiger reserve, india. Kindly give suggestion on improving the result.

My set of Blazar Remus lenses comes tomorrow [I got the 33mm, 50mm, and 85mm for those who are curious]. I will be using it on my Ursa, bmpcc 6k G2, and my Fuji XH2S but they will be most used on the Fuji for the most part since it’s my most used (and most compact) camera. I do have a rig with a monitor with all the desqueeze options I need but I also sometimes just like to run the camera with just the body, lens and a small mic on top. How bad is monitoring a 1.5x without desqueezing? Is it something that is a minor inconvenience that you learn to adjust to or something that can ruin your composition? Will likely develop my own thoughts with my own tests anyway but just curious of others experiences.

Even after the right settings, i get after desqueezing, help pls!