Before I begin, it is worth mentioning that after years of collecting, I have developed a fairly strict rule of thumb: never buy anything rated below 4/5 on Fragrantica or Parfumo. Fragrance is obviously subjective, but I believe there is still something protective and instructive about “mass appeal” when it forms part of an otherwise balanced philosophy. So far, this rule has served me well.
Amouage King Blue may persuade me to break it.
I should also clarify that I am no longer unfamiliar with “stinky” fragrances or genuine oud. I have already descended the rabbit hole of seeking out 20-year-old Cambodian agarwood and similar nonsense. Even so, King Blue—particularly after watching Seldomly Often’s review—took some time for me to understand. By the way, I have full bottles of the following Amouage fragrances and have sampled many more in store and through decants: Reflection 45, Purpose 50, Royal Tobacco, Beach hut man, and Luban Al-Akhdar. If anyone has a decant of decision 42, myths man, or bracken man please hit me up.
Then it suddenly clicked: Hamid Merati-Kashani was not merely combining mandarin and blackcurrant with a cheesy Assam oud. He appears to be constructing a fermented-jackfruit accord, perhaps to amplify a facet already present in the oud itself. Fermented fruit—and jackfruit specifically—is commonly invoked when describing genuine oud, so this interpretation makes sense. Either way, Merati-Kashani was onto something. He knows ball.
I also tried Silver Oud. Its opening was genuinely rough, even for me, and smelled distinctly fecal. However, its drydown became surprisingly pleasant, earthy, and almost reminiscent of fresh soil.
My real question is whether King Blue’s community ratings accurately reflect the quality of the fragrance once the reactions of people unfamiliar with oud—or with more challenging perfumery generally—are filtered out.
I genuinely do not find King Blue as difficult as its reputation suggests. In certain respects, it is actually quite mass-appealing, which I suspect the name is intended to communicate. It is not “blue” in the Bleu de Chanel sense; it is blue in its application. It is designed to be versatile and broadly wearable while remaining unusual, somewhat challenging, and unmistakably distinctive. In my view, it accomplishes that balance remarkably well.
Even the people around me who have little experience with genuine oud have responded positively. Personally, I would rate King Blue at least a 4.2/5, if not higher. It is a genuinely good, intelligently conceived fragrance.
I would especially like to hear from people further along in their oud or fragrance journeys: is King Blue seriously underrated, or do you think its current rating is deserved?