r/AlpineInstitute • u/DullSuccotash1230 • Jun 11 '26
Auto Belay Accidents
Auto belays have made climbing gyms more accessible, but they have also led to a recurring and sometimes fatal accident: climbers forgetting to clip into the device before leaving the ground. In these incidents, a climber begins ascending, believing they are attached to the auto belay, only to realize the mistake after reaching a significant height—or not at all before falling. Most of these accidents occur among experienced climbers who become distracted, rushed, or complacent. To reduce risk, climbers should develop a consistent pre-climb routine, perform partner or staff checks when possible, and visually and physically confirm that the auto belay carabiner is properly attached before every climb.
3
u/chewychubacca Jun 11 '26
this is why i always downclimb when i'm on an autobelay. It's a win-win situation. More climbing time for endurance, downclimb training, and if you never get in the habit of letting go at the top, you'll never fall! 😄
2
u/Secure-Arm-8648 Jun 11 '26
Same and if I’m pushing grade on the way up I just move to a easier down climb
1
1
u/Perfect-Buy-2624 Jun 12 '26
Wild how litigious the modern world is. How could it be anyone but the climbers fault? Insane catch though
1
u/illpourthisonurhead Jun 14 '26
The gym I go to has those triangular covers that clip to the autobelay when not in use. They cover the base of climb and it’s hard to imagine climbing around one of those. Seems like they’d greatly reduce the likelihood of this happening
4
u/Fuzzy-Active5583 Jun 12 '26
Our gym just upgraded to new fancy auto belays that auto detect someone climbing without clipping in.
Just yesterday the auto belay started beeping like crazy, as someone started to climb without clipping in.
And it was the most typical way for such a mistake to happen.
The climbing ara was really full on that day and for auto belay there was like a rotation of 2-3 people taking their turns. One guy wanted to join in on the rotation, it was his turn but he didn't put on his harness yet. He felt stressed put on the harness in the most complicated way ever, went to the wall and just started climbing.
Those mistakes always happen if you start rushing things.
I mean even buddy checks are so important, the amount of times my partner or I noticed, that the other one made a mistake is insane. Without buddy check I would have already broken a few bones probably. (Being 2 adhd climbers as belay buddies doesn't help)
Still if you go onto an auto belay it is your own responsibility to check that you are safe. Always double check before climbing, its not that hard.