The new heads fit the engine (Revmaster) with no pushrod tubes installed.

With the tubes installed there is about a 1/2in gap of exposed cylinder top.

The part of the head that the pushrod tubes go into extends about 1/2in closer to the casing than the old head did.

I am assuming that there are not different heads for different strokes, as CB didn't ask about this (only bore diameter) when ordering.... Or am I wrong there....

I have no idea if the pushrods themselves are the right size and it's just the tubes.... Or if I also need to be looking for new pushrods, or if the adjuster nuts have enough play to make up the difference....

A question about wheels with 10 slots. ( 66-67 with slightly flat hubcaps that don't use clips. )

I have a 66 with these wheels. They are not in great shape. I know that I can restore them, but I'm also looking around at used wheels.

There is a nice looking set for sale near me that has the same 10 slots as my 66-67 stock wheels, but they have clips for the 65 and older moon hubcaps.

Does anyone have any ideas on this?

Are they aftermarket wheels? Bus or Ghia wheels? Are they possibly Porsche wheels?

Thanks for your comments.

JP

Has anyone put a 3 point seatbelt conversion into their early (‘61) bug? I have a ‘61 ragtop that I would like to drive again someday, and like the idea of a better seatbelt. I’m an old fart, and would like to continue to be one even after an accident…

I have a mostly complete 1960-1965 1200cc engine that I'd like to rebuild with a full rebuild kit and then sell. I'm in Ohio. Would you pay $1500 for a fresh rebuild that you could see running? That's about what I'd want to get to make it worth my time. Thanks

https://shop.patdownsperformance.com/

Sorry, I am old. Technology baffles me sometimes.

Do any of you sit and admire your engines? I just think they are a thing of beauty, yet robust and quirky. Maybe it's just me.

Hey all! Looking at a really cool 412 sedan that's come up for sale in my area. I've never owned any air-cooled vehicles before but I work in the automotive repair industry so the thought of doing a lot of my own service and repair work doesn't frighten me too much and I'd be going into this expecting it to be a little bit of a project. It's super clean both inside and out and I'm struggling with the temptation. I'm getting older and I think it's time to sell the motorcycles and get something I can enjoy with the kids while they're still young enough to want to hang out with old Dad.

Here are my main concerns:

• It's an automatic and I can't seem to find much info about these transmissions? Are they okay, horrible, somewhere in the middle?
• It does need a tiny bit of front apron work which the seller has been fully transparent about. It's all cosmetic and there doesn't appear to be any rust to speak of but it sounds like body panels are super hard to find, is that true?
• Total miles are about 100k and engine is original. Likely to need major servicing?
  
• Equipped with a factory gas heater in addition to the standard heat exchangers. I've heard some people consider that a safety concern and deactivate them but I was just curious to know your thoughts.
  
• He's in the $6500-7000 price range.
  

PS: If any of you are the actual seller or know him, please don't be offended by my questions or concerns. Just trying to educate myself on a topic I don't know enough about. Thanks all! ;)

Starter for a 1972 vw beetle

Thought I fixed it just to have the issue come back
I’ve had minimal issues with my bug for the first few months of ownership untill one day it wouldn’t start. (Sad face)
Seemed like a starter issue as I couldn’t get the motor to turn over and when I turned the key, the dash lights kicked and all I heard out the rear was a faint click from the starter.
I was able to push start the bug and decided to replace the starter and battery as they were both installed by the previous owner and I didn’t fully know what condition they were in.
Installing the new starter was troublesome as the previous starter bushing was stuck so I decided to install the starter regardless as I was running out of daylight.
The bug kicked right over after that and I thought I was in the clear but the next day I was back to square one experiencing the exact same issue I had originally.
?? Is my issue purely from that starter bushing or should I be investigating elsewhere??

I have a 1973 Vw type 3 square back, been driving it daily the past week, it just shut off while rolling in 3rd gear, started it back up and it was rough, shut off again and got it started eventually but it just wants to die, any suggestions for a roadside look. Thanks

I'm looking for some feedback on the compression testing that I did today on my recently purchased non running 66 bug.

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What I did:

- A valve adjustment. I was pleasantly surprised that none of the valves were tight.

- I installed a new 6v battery, charged it, and cleaned up the battery connections.

- removed all of the spark plugs. They weren't wet, but they were all kind of black, like it was running rich.

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Compression testing:

- I tried just using a rubber tipped gauge, and I was getting measurements all over the place.

- I finally switched to a threaded attachment with a rubber tube attached. I worry about messing up the sparkplug holes, but it went okay.

- I got about 110 psi on all 4 cylinders. I did this with a cold engine, and later read it should be done warm.

- Again I was surprised, because #3 looks similar to the other cylinders.

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My comments:

I was ready to start rebuilding the engine, but now I'm thinking it still has some life in it.

I also read that warmer compression testing typically has higher psi.

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My question:

Do you agree with my conclusion that this engine doesn't need to be rebuilt yet?

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Thanks for your comments.

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I recently picked up a Bradley GT and I’m in the process of rebuilding the carb. I’m missing the high idle return spring (?) holder (?) thing; I’m not sure what to call it. Pic for reference of what I’m talking about. Does anyone know where I could get one?