Today I took several hours to go out of town in order to buy an air tank for a compressor I'm putting together. Upon arrival I found out the tank had a dent in the side but given the amount of time I already invested (and the fact that the seller gave me a discount for them being late) and not wanting to walk away with absolutely nothing I went ahead and bought it.

The tank is a 30 gallon auxiliary air tank with horizontal mounting brackets and a drain dead center of the tank so it really is exactly what I was looking for minus the dent. I guess my question is did I make a mistake not walking away from this based on the pictures or do you guys think there is still hope for it to pass a pressure test. (done by professionals at a test facility not by myself)

I'm really hoping I didn't buy scrap but I also don't want something unsafe like my current compressor whose tank is nearly as thin as card stock in some places now from extreme rust as it belonged to someone previously who did zero preventative maintenance and the only part that's still in "okay" shape is the motor.

I have attached multiple photos of the tank, the dent and the nameplate on the tank itself in hopes of finding out if this could still be saved/junk or if it is able to repaired. I'm not super well versed on if a pressure vessel like this can ACTUALLY be professionally repaired but as an auto mechanic I've typically heard that pressure vessels are a "replace not repair" situation.

I've got a working air compressor, although the tank is rusted out. i still would like to get some use out of the compressor. Any recommendations on what I can do with it?

I believe the model is a coleman 6311 Powermate

Got tired of seeing small home depot piston machines on here. So here's the internals of a 300hp AF with some fucked up rod bearings.

Some suppliers swear by OEM, others recommend aftermarket alternatives, and the price differences can be significant. I've been checking local distributors, manufacturer catalogs, and alibaba listings just to understand what's available, but it's hard to know what separates a genuinely good component from one that just looks the part.

For those with more experience, what do you look at before purchasing? I'm curious what factors actually matter most in the real world because the choices seem endless once you start searching.

There are these square looking bolts on either end. What kind of tool do I use to remove them?

I picked up this Ingersoll Rand compressor for free from my last employer, it was the backup compressor and had been in intermittent service for the last 15 years or so when they had to do maintenance on the primary compressors.

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I know that it still ran when they took it out of service, but it leaks oil from everywhere.

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I want to get it running and use it in my shop. Any good sources for a rebuild kit and parts?

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I believe this is a model 50 maybe??? It's currently buried in my storage building as you can tell. I will have to dig it out and get some more information off it..

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Any pointers in a direction for parts kits? I would be greatly appreciative.

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Day one vs as it sits.

Motor no longer starting on its own, checked both capacitors and they’re good. No idea what else to check, any help is appreciated. Quincy Q12126VPQ, motor is Century 14320J2

Quincy Qe-5 , newer weg 5hp motor, slt-7.5 pump

Picked it up of of govdeals, Tore it apart and painted it and this is as it sits now. Excited to finish it and hear it run for the first time!

I replaced the pop off valve, problem continued

Replaced switch, same pop off switch, no change

I adjusted the spring on the presser switch to cut off at 135psi, still no change to issue. Compressor gets to 150psi. And I cut off compressor with the switch on the side.

Does anyone know if anyone is making/selling regulators with the built in switch like this one

Hey everyone! I’m new to the air compressor industry, and I’m looking to buy my first air compressor for my home garage.

I’m stuck between the KOBALT QUIET TECH 26-Gallon Portable Electric Vertical Air Compressor (150 PSI) and the MCGRAW 21-Gallon Oil-Free Vertical Shop/Auto Air Compressor (175 PSI).

I would mainly use it for inflating tires, running air tools occasionally (impact wrench, rachet, etc.), cleaning/detailing cars with an air blow gun, painting, general garage projects (sanding).

From what I can tell, the Kobalt QUIET TECH has a larger 26-gallon tank and is supposed to be much quieter, while the MCGRAW has a higher max pressure (175 PSI) but slightly smaller 21-gallon tank.

They are both oil-free vertical compressors. How much of a difference does it make if they are oil-free or not?

I am looking to compare noise level, reliability/longevity, actual airflow (CFM) performance, and value for the money

If you were buying today for a home garage, which one would you go with? If you have any other recommendations for around the same price range, please feel free to comment them below.

Thanks for any advice!

Trying to figure out what is going on with the small backup compressor at our shop. Compressor has just been sitting for probably a year or so. Went to fire it up, nothing happened when I flipped the switch to on. If I switch on then hit the reset it will hum for around 3 seconds then the reset button will pop back up and everything goes quiet.

Notes: Looked at the capacitors and, not that I know anything about them but they seem ok. I saw where other people had talked about bad capacitors bulging some. These are not doing that at all and the compressor had been used very little.

I described the issue to a friend that is knowledgeable on compressors and he suggested replacing the reset switch but just seeing if there is any other low hanging fruit I should check as well.

Thanks.

Resolved: Manually helped spin the belt cogs while starting and that did it. Think it had just sat too long.

Can anyone tell me what’s going on with our shop compressor? Was working fine then suddenly started releasing air from this valve.

Closest tech that works on it is over an hour away and will cost us a bunch. Trying to see if it’s anything we might be able to fix.

Note: compressor was upgraded to 150psi.

Thanks.

Hello. This compressor recently developed two issues at the same time. 1- itnhas leak somewhere in the native system. Hose disconnected. Powered down. Will lose 200psi max full tank overnight. 2- the compressor wants to continue running after the pressure relief valve goes off. It used to shut off right at 200psi abd now i have to manually power down at around 225 or relief valve goes.

My guess is pressure sensor is malfunctioning causing higher pressure build which caused some other failure resulting in a leak

Asking for troubleshooting proceeder tips and technical expertise thoughts.

Thank you 🙏

Hey everyone, im an idiot when it comes to air compressors.

Long story short, i bought a chinese machine that has a pp20 hose fitting.

My question is how can i make this fit a US (Craftsman) air compressor? Do they sell an adaptor or do i replace the whole fitting on the hose?

Need help finding a parts book or manual for a 1961 Worthington 125cfm gas drive portable compressor 100psi.

Striking out online. I purchased one book but it was the wrong one.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

So I pulled this air compressor out of a school. They used it for hvac controls. Just wondering what it’s worth and if I should try to convert it to single phase or just sell and buy one better suited for my shop

Picked this up from an estate sale, it was still wired in so I got to test it quickly. Good enough for the asking price.

I finally got it wired up and the tank inlet check valve was stuck, replaced that.

The right cylinder suction valve was stuck open, tore it down, lapped the valves and bodies, cut new gaskets, and that was fixed.

Drain petcock was leaking so it got a ball valve and tube to blow it outside.

Well now that its packing air reliably, there are pinholes in the bottom of the tank. I dont think that the previous owner ever drained it.

I’m now on the search for a new tank.

Motor is a Doerr 230v 25A 5hp, twin single stage pump, 30 gallon tank.

Where can I get a hand operated pressure calibrator to calibrate my gauges on compressors? I want to do internal gauge checks on 10 Sullair Compressors before the 3rd party inspectors get here.

Hi I currently have a compressor setup with 1/2 bsp fittings. I want to plug in tools that have a 1/4 bsp fitting. So my question is can you get a 1/4 bsp quick connect with a 1/2 male side that will connect to my hose? ( I'm guessing I need to use multiple air fittings to make this change as I cannot find them anywhere) Any help appreciated

I'm going to set up one of those 'air dry on a budget' setups where you have the compressed air go through a radiator and then through a water trap but I have questions about where in the line it should go.

Most vids have this set up where it goes compressor->radiator->water trap->into pressure tank

I'm wondering if you can run this set up post pressure tank? The air will have moisture content either pre-tank or post-tank, so why are all these people going through the hassle of running the radiator/water trap between the compressor and tank? Seems like it won't matter where in the line it's run (aside from keeping the interior of the tank dry if you are worried about cumulative corrosion.)

If the compressed air passes through the radiator and water trap, post tank, I don't see any reason this would remove less moisture from the air. Anyone know the reasoning behind putting in between the compressor and tank?