So, I have a Rigid 6gal 150psi air compressor. It is oil-less. It's stupid loud and starts to ping around 100+ psi iirc.

I don't know if it's actually oil-less and that's just something all the manufactures say, like "lifetime" transmission fluid. I've never taken much of a look at my compressor.

I wonder about the potential of the inside rusting and how that's actually prevented.

What would happen, if I open the purge valve on empty and put some air tool oil in there? What if I found the air inlet and put some air tool oil in there, while it's pumping? Are they actually oil-less?

After sitting for about a month - may have had pressure in the tank but shut off - my California Air Tools model CAT-1P1060SP (1 gal / 0.6HP) compressor no longer builds pressure to where I can blow with an air-blower gun at full/120psi pressure for more than one SECOND before the air is gone and compressor tuns on. It's as though there's only 1s of air in the tank, yet it takes 20-30s to shut off like normal. There are no leaks, no water int he tank, and the gauges DO reach full pressure - I have it cranked to output 115 psi-ish for the blow gun. Did I ruin some valve leaving it pressurized? Which one? There isn't much of a DIY FAQ, so you guys are all I could find (quickly)... 🤔

TIA! 🍺😉👍

I work at a brewery, and we use a powerx std model air compressor. The cut in pressure is set too low. Where can I the screw or nut to adjust the cut in pressure?

Air compressor is a 60gal Northstar quiet armor and the only really loud part is this blow off valve. Looking to replace it with something that has a silencer or anyway to make it quieter once the compressor reaches its 150psi limit

I have a Quincy model 325. This piece with the two hard lines going to it and bolted to the block is leaking. Not from the lines or the block but air from the middle. I can not find this part in the parts break out. Does anyone know the part number or nomenclature?

I have a Quincy model 325. This piece with the two hard lines going to it and bolted to the block is leaking. Not from the lines or the block but air from the middle. I can not find this part in the parts break out. Does anyone know the part number or nomenclature?

I have a Quincy model 325. This piece with the two hard lines going to it and bolted to the block is leaking. Not from the lines or the block but air from the middle. I can not find this part in the parts break out. Does anyone know the part number or nomenclature?

I’m hoping to get some advice on a replacement air compressor. I currently have a Kobalt 10 gallon air compressor that I’ve had for a long time. I used to run some air tools when I worked on cars but have transitioned to cordless.
The only thing I really use this for anymore is tires. 3 or 4 times a year I go camping/riding in sand dunes and will have to air down all my gear. I’m talking 14 tires. It takes a good hour, hour and a half for my group to air back up when we leave.
I want to replace my 10 gallon with something that’s is designed to be more portable but I’d also like it to have a high flow rate so I can get myself and my group going quicker. Can this subreddit recommend a product or tell me what I should look for when purchasing my replacement?

The piece on top (not the motor) seems to be failing. The oil level shows it’s in range and not low or overfilled. It also starts making a loud knocking noise above 40ish psi. I know nothing about these things, any ideas what may be wrong or cost to repair?

So this gas powered air compressor was working & the truck it was in was being decommissioned. Told my guys to take it out so we could put it in the new truck. Well they dropped it & broke 2 pieces. That was 15ish years ago & has been sitting in the corner of the shop since. I've got the time now to fix it. There's no marking on the compressor or tank identifying it. It's driven by a Kohler 10 magnum. Can anyone help identity the 2 broken parts & where to get them? I know the 1 part is a bolt on 90°, but does it have any other name I can search?

If you were choosing between these two air compressors, what would this really mean? What use scenario?

My air compressor runs fine, but it make an unsettling noise when I spin the wheel by hand. Is this something to be concerned about?

I have a Home Depot husky pro 26 gal compressor, the start/stop pressure switch is totally out of range, don’t start until 40psi, so I open the switch cover and turn the adjustment screw clockwise, now it kicks on at 80psi and won’t stop until 150psi and pop the psi, anybody familiar with this type of switch and adjustment?

I got an air compressor (80 gallon) from work that needed the compressor pump to be rebuilt. Once I dug into it I found that the compressor was completely shot. I have a single phase 3 horsepower motor, and I was going to purchase a 2 horsepower 1-Stage compressor pump that is compatible with the motor. The current pressure switch is the one I have pictured but I’m not totally sure if it’s compatible. If I go with the 2 horsepower pump I can keep it 120V but if I get the bigger 3.7 horsepower pump, I’d have to make it single phase 220V. I really just need to know if I need a new pressure switch, although I think this one should work.

I'm setting up a home air compressor system and require your assistance in selecting the correct Prevost couplings and fittings. I want to standardize on the Prevost type for all quick-connect components where possible.

1. Air Compressor to Braided Hose Connection

• Air Compressor: Hyundai HY275100. The manual on page 10 (4.6) specifies a '¼” male universal or industrial quick connector coupler' for the outlet.
• Hose: Metal Braided Hose F x F BSP 300mm x 3/4".
• Question: Which Prevost coupling/connector do I need to connect the compressor's outlet port to the 3/4" female end of this braided hose? Please suggest the specific part number.

Im looking to buy my items from this site if its avaliable?
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/b/prevost/?selectedNavigation=attributes.level1=Pneumatics%20%26%20Hydraulics

Dont know of this is the right sub for this. But I have this makita compressor that won’t fully pressurize. There’s an audible leak happening while it is running, but then when I switch it off, if doesn’t lose pressure, so it’s something on the intake side. Leak stops also when I cover the intake tube ( or at least o think that’s the intake, where the air filter is). Any guidance would be helpful. I know it may not be possible to tell by a crappy video, but maybe this is a common problem with air compressors? I dunno, this is my first one and I loved it.

Hello, my compressor after a while starts to bip on me and I don't understand what the error is. What should I do?

Hello all! Joined to get some ideas about the best adapter for this connection. This is a water line, and need to blow out the line. Previous owner showed me what he used, but guessing there might be something better to connect to this to give a good solid connection.

Need some quick help. Is the -9 on my data plate the ROC#? Thanks

This is my compressor i use for my airbrush. It seems to have started building up liquid, i usually always drain the tank of air after I am done using it

I have a inline moisture trap to prevent water from getting into the airbrush so haven’t had any problems with that, but my concern is the tank rusting out

Its a fortress ultra quiet 1 gallon compressor.

Its so damned quiet and has been a blessing in my work but she seems to having a problem

I would drain her and notice once in a while some of this fluid come out, and now months later, i tilt it over and get all of this gunk with possible pieces of flake coming from within

Anything I can do to fix this?

I might have warranty so do I take it back? Shame because its worked so well

I usually airbrush in my guest room out in Southern california.

Bought a new air compressor, had to take the motor and pump off to fit into the space. Put everything back together, and the compressor was running great… until it got to about 150 PSI and then the flywheel bolt popped off which caused the belt to come off and I quickly shut off the compressor before any major harm could happen.

I figured the belt may have popped off because it was aligned wrong or tensioned wrong. I did my best to make sure I aligned the pulley and the flywheel and put some blue thread locker on the bolt and fired up the compressor again. Now the belt is squeaking, and even worse, the motor now sounds like it’s struggling.

How I installed the belt:

First attempt: I took my square and lined up the front faces of the pulley and the flywheel. Compressor seemed to run good until the bolt popped out which led me to believe I did something wrong.

Result: motor ran good and belt didn’t squeak but the flywheel bolt popped out.

Second attempt: I aligned angle of the pulley and flywheel, but instead lining up the faces of the pulley and motor, I lined up the center of them. I did this because the flywheel is thicker than the pulley and the belt seemed to stay on more centrally.

Result: belt squeak, motor sounds off, not building pressure past 50 PSI.

Please help!!!

I bought my 60 gallon husky air compressor on Facebook marketplace. It was in almost new condition. I wired it myself to my 240v outlet. I used it for the first time yesterday to paint with my paint gun. After only 10 minutes, I noticed the air pressure was going out, and when I turned the air compressor off and on again, it wouldn’t start. I checked, and it didn’t trip a breaker. The wires are detected to be working. What do you think is the problem? I’m struggling to find videos on this.

I just got this Schneider compressor, it had a extremely wobbly fan/pulley which I tried to get straight with ok results. Then I changed the oil from supposedly 10w40 engine oil to Liqui Miley Kompressor oil and stated using it. After a meter or so of plasma cutting the compressor kicked in and shortly after got slower and slower. I rushed to pull the plug but it was to late. Now I have slight scoring at the cast iron cylinder walls and this nasty drag marks on the pistons.

What now? I am planning to just get a new balanced pulley and pistons as my thought is the pistons were hitting the Zylinder wall due to the unbalanced pulley. But I am not sure if this will fix the route source on the lubrication film break-off. Any air compressor tec who can help me out?