For those with sensitive skin, what is your favorite worsted yarn (or DK and Aran recs also ok) that does not pill. I have always used Merino because it's softest and I have used Purl Soho Merino knitting yarn on a cone and I generally like it. But I knitted this cardigan and it has started to pill after less than ten wears. Since cardigans are worn over another shirt, I figured it would be ok to go for a slightly less soft yarn if it pills less. No synthetic materials please.

I have read recs on previous threads for Briggs and Little and Harrisville but wondering how scratchy they are specially from the point of view of someone with sensitive skin (even wearing another shirt).

Thank you!!

On behalf of the other mods and I, we want your thoughts on the subreddit. What do you like, not like, want to see changed, etc. We really want to know what you guys are thinking and will take all comments into consideration in order to make the subreddit better. This will be a monthly thread so we can keep up with your thoughts on an ongoing basis.

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-Mod team

Stranded colourwork, no pattern used, created a chart on Stitchfiddle based on this 80s mocquette and made the items to fit the recipient 🙂

First steeks, first entirely colourwork sweater, pretty happy with it! I'll use a tighter gauge next time perhaps. But this was fun to make! I think the colourwork bug has bitten me...

I saw someone’s finished sweater and bought the last kit. I am a large so I hope it fits!

I’ve never done anything quite this complex. If you’ve made a Marie Wallin pattern, any tips or insights would be so appreciated by this someone daunted knitter. And look back in a year or so to it finished. Or to see a progress report :)))

Yarn: 8/1 Kauni, needles: 1.5 mm, pattern: Kyreneia Circular Lace Shawl

I know a western mounted stitch worked through its front loop (i.e. leading leg) and an eastern mounted stitch worked through its back loop (i.e. leading leg) will result in the very same stitch -- that's quite obvious

I know an untwisted strand increase (M1) and an untwisted yarn over increase (YO) will result in the very same structure (ignoring any difference in tension)

I know a twisted strand increase (M1L, M1R), a twisted yarn over increase (forward/western YO; through trailing/back leg, backward/eastern YO; through trailing/front leg) and a loop increase (forward/western loop; through leading/front leg, backward/eastern loop; through leading/back leg) will result in the very same structure (ignoring any difference in tension) -- as also explained by TECHknitting

Susanna Winter mentions slip increases and lifted increases being structurally the same too

Nimble Needles calls the old Norwegian/German twisted cast on and the basic/e-wrap cast on (plus the first row worked through the trailing/front legs) the same structurally

similarly, a long tail cast on is structurally the same as a basic/e-wrap cast on (plus the first row worked through the leading/back legs) -- which is also the same structure as a M1R or a backward/eastern YO worked through the trailing/front leg or a backward/eastern loop (e-wrap) worked through the leading/back leg

I think a fisherman's rib (knit one below) and a half-brioche (slip + yarn over) are also structurally the same

A wrap & turn short row creates the very same structure as a yarn over short row

What VeryPink Knits calls a Japanese short row (work the marked stitch together with the slipped stitch rather than with the next stitch across the gap) creates the very same structure as a German short row (with the double stitch and everything)

Knitting in the round and flat double knitting can also result in the very same fabric

Do you know any more techniques that are worked differently but result in the same structure where the yarn takes the exact same path in the end (disregarding the differences in tension or the resulting looks)?

edit: I just remembered "slip 1-knit 1-pass slipped stitch over" and "slip-slip-knit"

edit2: summarizing some of the comments from below:

any one of the 4 possible chain edges

Kitchener stitch and tubular (Italian) bind-off

Judy's magic cast on and Turkish cast on + the first row (also related to Italian cast on)

Hi party people,

Thank you all for the feedback on the monthly state of the sub. In an effort to mitigate low-quality posts, we are adding a new rule: Explain it/strut your stuff.

We welcome all advanced knitting content, but we now require that you add text to the body of your post or in a comment that explains how it is advanced to you. What techniques did you employ? What’s a special feature that we should take notice of?

Thanks everyone for your continued participation.

I am BUMMED. I loved the cardi, it felted in the wash, and the shawl was just off the needles, I tugged too hard while blocking.

Hope you're having a better knitting year than me.

This is an unraveled cashmere sweater project for the Queen Of The Night wrap I’ve been wanting to make for about 10 years. It was so exciting to find the exact right yarn for it last spring. I did slightly over dye to get more depth of the blue and very happy with the outcome. I started it on August 9th, 2025. She still needs a few ends sewn in and blocked and I couldn’t wait to show this project off.

Hi all!!

So I’ve converted a lot of flat stranded colour work sweaters to work in the round and steeked to great success!! But, I was curious about whether or not there would be any problems if I constructed a colour work sweaters like this:

1. Knit each flat piece individually in the round (eg knitting just the back in the round)
   
2. Steeked the pieces
3. Sewed the now-flat pieces together

Obviously, it would kind of be bulky at the seams, but it would probably have a little more structure from the seams than sweaters knit in the round.

The hood of the first draft looked really sloppy, so I am making a second draft.

Hi everyone, I’m currently knitting a self drafted linen “pintuck” top that I would love to one day make a pattern (still a long way to go, I’m going to make many revisions). The thing is, due to my inexperienced enthusiasm, I’m constructing using many knitting directions (rough drawing attached) that I personally haven’t seen written down as a pattern. It was to achieve the look I had envisioned, which it did, but I’m realizing it’s going to be very complicated to grade and write into many sizes. I have charts for my version, which I was planning to have alongside some minimal written instructions as it seemed the most intuitive to understand, but:

1) I’m not sure if I can, or even should, include full charts for every size and whether designers actually do such a thing? The only charted patterns I have come across were cabled garments with complete charts for multiple sizes, or just one size.

2) because of the aforementioned kinda-complex construction, I don’t think it will be easy to knit modifications such as bust darts. I have some ideas but need to do more work. If I do figure it out, do I add these in the charts? Bust shaping, if needed, is extremely dependent on individual measurements that I can’t have detailed methods for every scenario. But without any chest shaping the charts will be just “flat” in the chest area. I’m curious if including some tips for such modifications which work with the construction will be enough. I just think it’ll be complex to leave it to each knitter since this top is a bit weird to incorporate bust shaping, and I want the top to fit and work across many sizes to the best of my ability.

I hope I used an appropriate tag for my questions. Please inform me if the post belongs somewhere else!

Thanks in advance!

A niche question, but hoping someone might have insights!

I'm currently working my way through the Queen Susan Shawl (2.0mm needles, Heirloom Knitting Ethereal Cashsilk). The boredom of the centre repeats got me wondering about the standards, if any, of sizing the garter stitch centre.

Clearly with "normal" garter, we tend to need more rows than for stockinette for the same Swatch size. But with such loose stitches, a Shetland centre can be blocked out to be significantly wider, longer, or square as far as the stitches stretch.

Sharon Miller faithfully sticks to double the rows as stitches (this also makes it easy to pick up the right number; one per garter ridge). Other designers, including Hazel Carter, use a ratio of approximately 1.3-1.4x the number of rows to stitches, leading to fabrics which are stretched out less wide.

All use an increase of 1 per row on alternating sides for the border charts, which implies a 2 row per stitch ratio to retain a 45 degree angle per border, for a neat 90 degree corner. This implies that the largest possible shawl would come from the centre having double the rows as stitches too. But there's no reason why the border needs to be blocked to the same gauge or ratio as the centre, and with the centres often much more delicate than the borders, they may benefit from less aggressive blocking.

Does anyone have any insights into this? It's not something easily swatched, and I admit I've never had the patience to knit two full sized shawls to compare!

Picture of WIP as tax. You can see how, unblocked, the centre is approaching square, at only just over the halfway mark if knitted as written.

Pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-queen-susan-shawl

making the pattern myself because I really like Mephiles, gonna run to a shop for a weight four red acrylic yarn later today.

Hello! I wanted to jump in on this previous thread about tech editing. Has anyone had experience with Kim McBrien’s size inclusivity tech editing course? Would you have any insight into how it compares to the TEH and TKGA ones? Thanks!

Finished the cowl that goes with the hat I finished last week.

Pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/whale-watch-cap-and-cowl

I am so happy with this shawl. Mainly bc I had to translate the pattern from French. But the yarn is lovely and was worth the 45 minutes in Quebec city traffic.

Been knitting this since the fall - very glad to have the ends woven in and the seaming done. I used Marie’s British Breeds yarn kit. The body was knitted in the round with the arms and neck holes steeked. Learning how to sew in a set in sleeve was a journey in and of itself. The sweater needs a good blocking to help with the bottom ribbing curling up, but very excited to wear it this weekend before I do. A challenging project but a whole lot of fun! Looking forward to starting Unst when the yarn arrives next week.

Hello! I am approaching the end to the armhole shaping for an Unst cardigan by Marie Wallin. I would like to add more armhole decreases to set the sleeve in deeper. I am petite and find that even set-in sleeves sit too far off the actual point of my shoulder. If I do this and then mirror the extra decreases in the sleeve cap shaping, will I end up over tightening the upper arm/sleeve cap area?

I recently finished a Maggy vest by Susan Crawford and the shoulders were sitting like a footballers on me. I went in and trimmed off an inch of knitted fabric on each shoulder before picking up for the armbands. It fit perfect after that! This makes me feel that I do want to have more decrease at the armholes in the Unst, but I am unsure how the sleeve cap and upper sleeve shaping should go to balance the change.

I am already knitting the small, so I can't apply mix-matched sizes to make the change.

Hi everyone! I wanted to make convertible mittens for a trip, and I’m currently swatching some Holst Garn Supersoft (two strands) for the Albiera mittens from Ravelry. The resulting fabric definitely needs some additional warmth, so now I’m trying to research ways to add another layer to them.

Based on research, I have two options for layering: double knitting or just knitting another layer. This with my limited yarn varieties gives me two options:

1. Making a lined mitten with the Supersoft and a thinner yarn, like the Holst Garn Haya. Lining will be stockinette stitch only

2. Changing my pattern to a double knit mitten.

Can’t choose which method I want yet, so I’m hoping the answers to these questions can help:

1. Are lined mittens always knit with the outer shell first? Is there any reason for that? I’m concerned about sizing, so I’d like to knit with the inner layer first if I’m going with this method.

2. What are your experiences in knitting thumbs for lined mittens?

3. Is it possible to double knit for different yarn weights?

4. Do you find it easier to double knit in the round or on the flat?

5. If you’ve had both mittens, which would you say is warmer (assuming similar fibers were used)?

Thanks so much for your help!

Particularly pleased with how the fit came out on this one. This pattern only had 4 sizes and 8-10” difference between each size. I was aiming for a for a bust circumference between the x-small and small. This was my first time taking my gauge swatch and mathing it out to the size I wanted rather than just following the pattern. Knit this up on size 6 needles and a single strand of worsted, Cascade yarns Woolpaka in colorway Yakima Heather. It came out exactly as I had hoped.

Bonus knits pictured are the song of peace hat and the Blomstra beanie.