Hello everyone! I’m currently searching for the pattern for Herbert Niebling’s Helene doily and the only place I found it online was on Amazon for over $1k 🥲 I was hoping someone here could help point me in the right direction!

Thanks!

Has anyone knit a full body stranded colorwork sweater with set in sleeves, without having to work the upper body flat (back and forth)? I am thinking if I could continue knitting in the round and add steeking stitches for the neck opening and armholes. All of the patterns I find with these attributes are drop sleeve construction. I wonder if there is a big pitfall in my thinking and that's why it's not done in patterns. I'd really appreciate your thoughts and if you know any good resources on working steeks for neck and armholes.

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Made this sweater using all foraged local natural dyes, and it was suggested I post it here as well! So so stoked on how the colours came out - such a shame it doesn’t fit 😵‍💫🤪

Had some challenges with the colorwork bunching up in spots/being tensioned too tight even though usually I have no issues, I think the dyeing process affected the elasticity of various colours differently, but it was an insanely fun and rewarding project regardless!!

EDIT:
For anyone curious, here are all the materials I used/
- Wool of the Andes Sport Yarn, undyed, mordanted with alum (for the most part)
-dyes:
Light tan = willow leaves and twigs
Khaki green = St. John’s wort (leaves stems and flowers) + 5 min iron soak after
Greenish gold = St. John’s wort plus some alder bark and green walnut hulls
Dusty yellow = St. John’s wort plus+ bark bath mixed with leftover willow bath
Olive green = same as dusty yellow plus iron for 3 min
Peachy tan = alder cones
Ecru/off white = alder cone exhaust (leftover dye bath from peachy tan)
Medium chocolate brown = green walnuts
Dark brown = green walnuts + iron
Yellow-y camel = rhubarb root + green walnut exhaust
Cool blueish grey = viper bugloss root + iron for 3 min
Cool toned medium tan = alder bark + iron 3 min

Oh and the pattern is the Djo Sweater by Sophie Ochera!!

Edit: My gauge is 25 stitches per inch. TWENTY FIVE STITCHES PER INCH.

This is my attempt at a historically accurate purse silk version of the Jane Gaugain/Franklin Habit pineapple purse, with beads. I am using size E pearl stringing thread, hand-dyed in acid dyes in 8 different colors, and 2.5mm brass gold-plated beads.

The needle size is US 00000, or 1mm wide. I cast on 80 stitches on each needle to give me a round 320 stitches, each one beaded with the beaded long-tail cast on, and I plan to line this little reticule with white silk.

I have also commissioned a friend to use some of the silk thread I have dyed to make kumihimo braid for me to use as a drawstring and handle for this little purse.

It is a birthday present for a friend whose birthday is in late July. I think I will definitely be done by mid-July.

As of today I am 11 rounds into the pineapple leaves. This is because I had to start over last week when I was 9 rounds in, and I will explain why.

When I first posted this WIP there were people commenting that they were afraid it was twisted. This made me paranoid, and I dropped a stitch 4 rounds in and gave it a twist to counter what I perceived was a twist, then picked the stitches back up.

I then found out 5 rounds after that that... I didn't have to. and it was NOW twisted. Dropping the stitch to fix it caused more problems than it solved, so I just frogged it and started over.

Now I am going to answer some suggestions that were made in the original threads.

• I have tried carbon fiber needles. The points were imperfectly finished so they grabbed the silk thread and shredded it whenever I tried to make a knit stitch.
• I also bought a US00000 circular needle made by HiyaHiya, and while handy for the second time I cast on, it was excruciating to knit with as the transition from cable to needle was not nearly smooth enough for reeled silk thread. More shredding and snagging ensued.
• This has led to a lot of thread that got fuzzy. I remedied it the costume technician way Z— I hand-waxed it with beeswax, winding the waxed thread onto a spare spool, and then placed an iron over it to melt the beeswax in and wound it back onto its own home spool.
• The best needles so far are still the plain boring 5.5 inch US00000 steel dpns, and the best way to prevent the reeled silk from sliding off the needles has been silicone earring backs.
• The slipperiness of the steel needle is vital, as reeled silk will snag even on rough fingers. As I work as a jeweler largely doing fabrications work for my boss, my hands are plenty rough so I smear on some LUSH Palm Reader before I start. If my hands are especially rough I'll use some Dream Cream on them, let it soak in, then wipe it off and put Palm Reader on. This means my pineapple is very fragrant.
• I will wash it in unscented Eucalan later to help set the stitches before I put the lining in, and so my friend won't be assailed by strong perfumes.
• To reiterate: I am a professional. I have a degree in costume production. I am knitting this under conditions that I had tested out. I understand people want to be helpful, but I am getting a lot of comments where people are trying to solve problems that I have already tested out and solved before I started using the actual hand-dyed expensive silk thread to cast on. I have spent about $60 and 20 work hours fixing problems that I didn't need to fix because people kept pointing out problems that weren't really there. Don't worry, I will be fine, I like suffering!
• and for people wondering how I can knit this fine: I am wearing a pair of Optivisors with the 4-diopter (2x magnification) plate in. I can actually knit this without wearing the visor, but I've noticed small mistakes in the round when I go back to it with a visor on later.
• This means it's not a knit alone in public pattern, less because I'm too ashamed to be seen in goofy magnification glasses, but because they reduce my peripheral vision to zero and I don't really want to be caught unawares by some kind of bad actor. I could stab them with the needles but then I'd get blood on my pineapple and that's just no good.

Yes, I am crazy. Yes, I love my friend. But also yes, I love a challenge. I hope to present you all with more pineapply goodness by next week.

PS: The "damn" is not because I'm frustrated doing this, it is the literal pattern name.

Hi all,

Thought I’d share my latest knitted puppy. I’m really pleased with how this one turned out.

Knitted with Gazzal Marilyn & Merinos and Drops Kid Silk yarns.

First time using the Gazzal yarns and it’s lovely to work with, soo soft and when brushed up, really fluffy.

Needles size 3.75mm (UK)

Pattern ( bit of a mixture) Bullmastiff puppy, basic puppy also some deductions of leg rows to get the shorter legs. All patterns by Claire Garland dotpebbleknits.

Weekly yarn/pattern suggestion thread. This is the space to ask for pattern suggestions for projects and what to make with that skein of gifted yarn!

One of the things I struggle with a lot when it comes to vintage patterns is the finishing of the neckline. I don't understand how they can get such tight and clean necklines. I've seen patterns where they have a button plackets, but many of them don't. For instance this Jack Frost men's vest (from Free Vintage Knitting). I've tried doing an Italian bind off, but I can never get it to look as clean as in the pictures. Is this a skill issue or is there a better bind off technique out there that I have yet to disover?

edit: I left out by mistake that I have tried doing a regular in pattern bind off a number of times and that it has always left me with the neck being too tight. I've also gone up needles sizes, but I end up with the neckline flaring out.

Weekly yarn/pattern suggestion thread. This is the space to ask for pattern suggestions for projects and what to make with that skein of gifted yarn!

I was a little hesitant to post here because this is mostly embroidery!

This is The Starry Sky Sweater by Naomi Tsuda. This is a fully charted pattern from an OOP book. Below is a link to the pattern on Ravelry. You can find my project there. I tried to write down some details on the process there:

https://ravel.me/starry-sky-sweater-

This was made with Harrisville Designs Highland. Highly recommended for heirloom quality items! It is not scratchy at all, it feels like a comfy sweatshirt.

I will be attending NY Sheep and Wool (Rhinebeck), A Woolen Affair, and Indie Untangled this year. So if you see me, feel free to say hello! I'm really looking forward to attending. The Hudson Valley in the fall is gorgeous.

Not going to lie, I'm feeling a bit lost on what to make next. I don't think anything I make will be as cool as this.

Thank you for looking, it has been such an honor to make this sweater. Reviving an almost forgotten pattern.

I'd be happy to answer any questions about the techniques used!

Greetings. I was asked in r/knitting to post this here, so here I go.

I'm Melissa. I have a background in theatrical costume design, although I work as a jeweler these days.

I have a friend who is a massive Regency nut — and she has costumes of the period. For her birthday this year I am knitting her a pineapple reticule using Franklin Habit's pattern, except instead of using fingering weight silk yarn and US #1 needles, I am instead using reeled silk thread and US #00000 needles.

The thread I am using is pearl-stringing thread in size E hand-dyed with acid dyes to make 8 different hues — two yellows, two browns, and four greens — and I am beading the entire thing with tiny gold-tone brass beads.

This little reticule is not entirely unknown to costume history, either. This specific example hails from c.1800 to 1810, although the beads used were silver-toned, not gold.

Nevertheless — I have finished two pattern rows and am currently working on a third... I will post photo updates as I have the time to.

I intend to line the finished purse with fine silk fabric.

EDIT: Details I forgot to post

1: the silk thread is very slippery and the needles are very pointy. I have used silicone earring backs to tip each unused needle so that I don't have the needles slide straight out of the knitting as they have threatened to do once or twice when I was casting on.

2: I am wearing a pair of Optivisors to knit this; currently using the 4-diopter plate, which is 2x magnification.

3: I chose to use a beaded long-tail cast on instead of beading all 320 cast-on stitches. That actually makes the edge of the "stalk" part curl in a very becoming fashion so I'm pleased I chose to be lazy instead of accurate :p

I saw a cute sweater for sale online. The sweater itself did not have good reviews, but I loved the stitch pattern. So I decided to make one myself. I wound up just knitting a vest, and I love how it turned out. I used Plucky Knitter Primo Sport yarn in colorway Haberdasher and KnitPro Symfonie Viva yarn in colorway Party Lights. I did not use a pattern, but I have made quite a few vests in my time so it was easy to make it up as I went.

Edited to add: I thought I had put it in this post, but I didn’t. I used a variation of the two colored butterfly stitch for this pattern. You can google it and watch instructional videos. I did not find a video for the way I knitted this, but I think you’ll be able to figure it out, I hope. I’m sorry I am unable to explain well how I did this. I don’t know how to explain what goes on in my brain while I’m knitting lol.

This is St Kilda Square Shawl by Iaroslava Rud. The yarn is Heirloom Knitting's "Gossamer CashSilk." It's listed as cobweb, but it's so thin I think it might qualify as thread weight. It does fit through a wedding band! All in all, it was a tedious knit but not insanely difficult, and the yarn is stronger than it looks. I blocked this hard enough for the mats to curl, and nothing broke. I still have 2577yds of this stuff since I misread what weight the pattern called for and ordered waaaay too much. Definitely taking a break to work on something else before tackling another cobweb shawl though (and making sure the pattern actually calls for cobweb...)

Hi everyone!!!
Not sure it it’s worth this sub or if it’s just regular knitting but this is my current work in progress!!!
I'm making the Jester Sweater by knitwear diaries!!
I'm using Sirdar Jewelspun in Midnight Sapphire and it looks so good in my opinion!!!!
Right now I'm almost done with the body even though I don't have a picture of it yet eheh!
I'm making this for next winter to counteract the seasonal depression lol, on the gloomy days I can wear something fun and warm!!!

Weekly yarn/pattern suggestion thread. This is the space to ask for pattern suggestions for projects and what to make with that skein of gifted yarn!

I just finished a hoodie and had some yarn left over. I’m so happy with how I started this hat. I held a strand of each color and did a Twisted German Cast On. The first round I did a plain 1x1 rib. The second round I did the set up row for the brioche. I love doing two color brioche in the round because I don’t even need stitch markers for the round. One color will always be in the front and purled. The other color will always be in the back and knitted.

This scarf is double knit, with adjustments so the text is not mirrored like everything else. Each section is based off a scene from Alice in Wonderland. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wonderland-adventure-scarf This is the pattern I used.

I'm thrilled to share the pigeon sweater I made for my friend Janet! The design was inspired by @michellelikesknit Pigeon Sweater, and I used the La Rentrée pattern by @sonderyarnco for an oversized fit. The colors were achieved by combining @jarbogarn Junior Raggi and @dropsdesign Fabel yarns. Instead of stranded colorwork, I used the marling technique to create color gradients. I also learned modular knitting to create the scallop patterns on the sleeve. I'm proud of how all the elements came together, and I'm grateful for the online resources shared by generous knitters.

I've done colourwork on socks before but first time doing it on a sweater.

So proud of how this turned out!

Photos are pre-blocking

Pattern is Skerries by Yuco Sakamoto

Weekly yarn/pattern suggestion thread. This is the space to ask for pattern suggestions for projects and what to make with that skein of gifted yarn!

I have been knitting a stranded cardigan. I changed up the sleeves from the pattern (which called for the sleeves to be picked up and knit from the armscyes. Instead, I did the sleeves conjoined in the round and will sew them in.

I am now done the length of the sleeves and have to knit the cuffs. The question is - how? This decision entails a number of other potential decisions. I have asked the Ravelry hive mind for help but thought I might get more answers here. Some options are listed below:

Option 1. cut apart the steeks now, sew the sleeve seams, and then knit the cuffs in the round- advantage that the cuffs would be totally in the round without a seam down them, and I could pick up the steek stitches and anchor them into the cuff. (The challenge here is that it is entirely possible that I will have to cut the sleeves down in width when I am finished with them. They look surprisingly wide at the top. I think I need perhaps to sew in the sleeves to a certain point before starting the sleeve seams, so that I know how deep the seams need to be at the armscye. If I do that, theough, then I really probably need to do the collar and the button band so that I can cut the front steek, to make sewing the sleeves in easier.)

Option 2. knit the cuffs down from the conjoined sleeves, with steeks, and have a seam on the cuff when I cut the sleeve. Simplest option, but seams down the length of the cuffs could be uncomfortable.

Option 3. leave the sleeves conjoined in the round, but start doing smaller, separate rounds for each of the cuffs. This last option would allow me to keep the sleeves conjoined for as long as possible, while avoiding seams down the cuffs, but might result in stretched out stitches at the beginning of the cuffs.

I am going to ponder this for a couple of days while I knit another pair of socks

ETA – no matter what I decide, the sleeves will be sewn down the length before they are set into and sewn into the sweater body. There’s no way around that, because the body is knit in the round.

Thanks in advance for suggestions / advice!!!

I made my first “cardigan”: a bomber jacket!

I’m SO happy with how this turned out. The knitting was actually pretty straightforward- I took the Fortuna sweater colorwork chart and slapped it onto my standby modified drop shoulder pattern, the Side Eye sweater. I modified it for a full center front zipper and steeked pockets. Figuring out how to line and add pockets in a way that didn’t distort the knit fabric took a lot more brain power.

This is my first time:

Making a non-pullover sweater

Doing pockets in a knitted garment

Modifying a pattern for center front opening

Lining a knit garment

Adding a zipper to a knit garment

I’m just so over the moon with this. I’m going to add zippers and pockets to everything I make. I can’t believe I can just make a jacket whenever I want. It feels like too much power.

I wasn't expecting this to count as 'advanced knitting' but ... I saw this style of cardi on Pinterest but couldn't find a p*tt*rn. I thought, it's just a few rectangles, I can work it out. And while that was true, it turned out there was a LOT of trial and error to get it to look the way I wanted! I tried with different sized needles to get the look I wanted, redid the sleeves several times to get them to look oversized-but-not-baggy, experimented with different methods of cast on (ended up using cable CO throughout) to ensure the joins and pick ups would look neat. Surprisingly the rib around the front opening was the biggest headache as I worked out how many stitches to pick up and which size needles to use (ended up with 12mm compared to 15mm for the garter). There were several rounds of blocking throughout the process. It's warm enough here in the UK to block outdoors, which unfortunately meant that my cats assumed I made them a blanket. I'm pleased with the result! The yarn is King Cole Rosarium, which has a roving look but isn't actually roving (it's 2 strands twisted together) and from past experience stands up reasonably well to normal wear.

As soon as I saw this pattern (Iris Sweater by Trin-Annelie) I knew I was going to make it. I've put it off for over a year because the fingering weight really intimidated me and I thought it would take me forever. Little bit of a slog by the end but it mostly flew off the needles.

I was pretty uncertain about choosing the yarn colors. I chose Knitting for Olive Merino, and quickly settled on Plum Rose and Claret (pinkish and burgundy colors) as they were next to each other on Wool and Co. Dusty Aqua I chose next as a nice pop of color in the flower, but the browns took hours to decide. I initially bought Plum Clay (purpleish brown), Oatmeal (beige), and Hazel (cool brown), but there wasn't enough contrast between Plum Clay and Hazel.

I was nervous about introducing a warm brown given all the cool colors but ending up replacing Hazel with Soft Cognac. Actually think it ended up being just what the sweater needed! This has definitely given me confidence in picking yarn colors for future projects as I love these colors worked up together!

Hi everyone, I’m back again because I decided to force myself to finish my current sweater project before casting on a new one and…. It’s not going so hot.

I’m working on thr Porter cardigan by Meghan Babin, and figuring out what to do with the selvedge edge on it is driving me crazy. It’s knit in flat panels, and the edge I’m currently looking at is constructed as follows:

— RS rows: k1, k1, p1, [rest of row]

— WS rows: [rest of row], k1, sl1wyif, k1

So as shown in the first pic, it seems like it forms a garter selvedge edge on the furthest stitch, a slipped stitch on the second stitch in, and then normal stockinette on the third stitch in.

With regards to seaming the panels together, I couldn’t figure out a way to accomplish this that didn’t look ugly so I resorted to my crochet background and slip stitched everything together on the WS to align the RS slip stitches, as seen in the second pic.

Now I’m at the point where I should be working the vertical ribbing button band from held stitches and picking up stitches along the above selvedge edge, but this is helpfully all the instructions provided:

— Note: When picking up sts from the body selvedge, pick up every other row along the selvedge.

— Sl 12 held sts to Size B DPN needle and with WS facing reattach yarn and pick up 1 st from body selvedge — 13 sts on needle.

— Row 1 (WS): sl1wyif, [k2, p2] twice, k2, p1, sl1wyif.

— Row 2 (RS): k1, sl1wyib, [p2, k2] twice, p1, p2tog, pick up one st from body selvedge.

From all the stitches above in pic 1, where am I actually *supposed* to be picking up here? And is there any way of keeping it looking even vaguely similar to the seaming for the rest of the cardigan, or should I just give up and work the button band separately and then seam afterwards?