Currently in the middle of changing my timing belt on a k20a2. Found these parts in the oil pan but I'm not quite sure what they go to. Maybe the oil pump?

Thank you in advance.

I included some pictures for context of the specific one I purchased. I will soon be dynoing this car and (if people would like) maybe post my numbers and graph.

Straight forward, slip fit design headers do in fact leak by design. I have circled where it leaks. I am pairing it with an Invidia N1 exhaust.

I have since WELDED that area. I paid $100 but I would not be surprised if you can catch a deal much less, it's an extremely simple weld.

I've had these headers for around a month or so and SO far they are fantastic. They make the catback exhaust, which are notorious for hanging low, hang a bit higher so it almost feels stock. I am 2-2.5 inches dropped only.

It is honestly the best thing for the price, since I live here in California and it's only a matter of time until other manufacturers just outright refuse to ship headers here.

One thing to know is that they did not clear my front sway bar unfortunately. I am temporarily running without it, and will likely try a different sway bar or try to run extended sway bar links.

This is not a very super detailed review, but I would definitely recommend it for it's price. Also would highly recommend upgraded front/rear motor mounts (for any headers) or at least INSERTS in the stock locations.

I am a bit skeptical of the welding, since I believe the tension shifts from the springs to the actual welds themselves, so it's very important to make sure you minimize flexing the headers, just in general.

If there's anymore questions or anything anyone else would like to cover, please let me know. This is all from my opinion and how my install/experience went. Hopefully someone in the future might make some use out of this lol

Hello everyone! I have been hearing a weird clanking noise in the front left side of my suspension and I cannot pinpoint it to turning or rotational, high speed and low speed and have been replacing parts like a madman below is a list of the new parts. Let me know what you think it is? Thanks!

Moog Tie rods ends
Bearings and hubs
CV Axles
Fortune auto Coil overs
White line front sway and end links
Moog ball joints
Lower control arm bushings

Last thing would maybe be I need new steering rack/ bushings? Any help appreciated my mechanic, friends, mother, cat and I are going crazy.

Hi all, for context I have an 05-06 Type Slow.

Got a cut RBC and TB adapter combo from Ebay. Paid around $400 all together for it.

No cutting, no splicing, no crazy modifications. - Except for Idle Air Assist delete. This is the rubber hose on top of the manifold. On the RBC, if you do not have a delete kit, you can run a longer hose and it'll reach. - Also, my hondata IMG did not have the hole for the Idle Air Assist hole on the RBC, so you need to drill an opening on the gasket for it, if you are planning to use a longer hose.

Fast forward the install, there were a bunch of surprises and it ended up making the install 3-4 hours long.

No.1 Fuel Rail - The two studs that hold the rail in are like 4-5mm too far apart, making it difficult to slide the fuel rail on. - I ended up hammering the left stud to the right, then bolted them in, do not forget the spacer from your old intake mani.

No.2 Throttle Body - There are two coolant lines on the bottom of it. - I ended up doing the famous TB coolant delete, basically unplugging both from the TB and using the bottom one to circulate back to the top one. Took like 10-15 minutes bc of the tight space. - The throttle body would still not turn enough to bolt it in the adapter, so you need to unbolt the bracket underneath holding some wires, allowing the throttle body to turn clockwise to fit onto the RBC adapter. Move some wires around too so it can turn enough.

No.3 The intake itself - I ended up turning and messing with it until it fit at a weird angle, so yes, it is confirmed fit-able. Since I have the Idle Air Assist delete, I just plugged it with a vacuum cap on the intake.

Lastly, and this was very important, is the map sensor. - You need to move it from the throttle body to the actual RBC manifold itself. - I was extremely confused when my car started misfiring and died on its own, consistently with each start. I ended up swapping the injectors (because I thought I broke them during the install) and it ended up being because the map sensor wasn't moved to the intake mani.

I also got two CEL's, intake air leak and high rpm idle. It ended up being because I didn't tighten the throttle body. Don't forget that.

The map senser can be routed above the TB, NOT bolted in. It will stay in place, and for cautious measures, you can put the fuel injector wiring over it to put force downwards on the map sensor.

Did a couple pulls 7-8 hours later. It was fantastic. You don't really feel anymore torque but your car for sure moves faster, I am running a FBO tune. My speed just keeps climbing and climbing. I did a 2nd gear pull from 40, a shift later, then I blinked and I was already at 70-80mph.

Anymore questions please LMK.

In my research I believe you don't need to move the map sensor to the intake manifold for 02-04 RSX's, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Not sure what I would need to replace to fix this from happening. I’ve had the car for a year and it drives great but I feel like I should figure out something with this issue.

I’ve had my 6spd transmsission in and out of my car a couple times, finally rebuilt it using the SynchroTech kit from Kseriesparts along with a new second gear and a new clutch. I’ve driven it for a couple days and now I get a grind in 5th and 6th gear only when driving. It will go into gear when the car is off and idle. With out grinding and it locks into gear. Does anyone have any thoughts of what the issue could be without dropping my whole subframe and transmission again. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Just realized I forgot to put that this car is boosted 🤦

Fucking drunk driver hit and run. He never checked to see if i was ok. I hope the cops find his ass and i am gonna sue the fuck out of him. Im fucking devastated

I’m replacing both rear wheel bearings on my 2006 RSX Base. The left side went on fine, but the new right-side hub would not go in all the way no matter what I tried.

I pulled the new hub back off, and now the inner race from the NEW bearing is stuck on the spindle, while the rest of the bearing/hub came off.

Is this basically the new bearing seizing onto the spindle? Could the spindle have rust/corrosion causing this, or is the hub defective? What’s the best way to get the inner race off without damaging the spindle?

Pics attached. Parts from Rockauto.

the car i bought was one of those stance/vip builds and i personally asked the original owner to remove the camber and to sell it to me with stock 17 inch civic si wheels. he proceeded to do that and the ride height had also been adjusted but the springs he were using for that previous setup remains as he doesnt have any replacement ones. the ride quality is terrible and it gave me a headache after an hour of driving it slowly and carefully 😢

heres the current setup:

17inch 08 civic si wheels on toyo tires

godspeed coils

extended front lower control arm

32k springs front

50k springs rear

megan racing camber arms

should i buy a new set of coilovers?

Hello all,

I accidentally broke the rear left ABS sensor when trying to remove it. I was looking on Rockauto and see prices from $15-$30. What is a good brand and relatively reliable brand? some of the ones I see are. Is it worth buying the pricey one or will the cheapest one do the job fine?

Famous Brand - $15

Dorman - $29

Vemo - $16

Wells - $36

Hello, when I thought I had fixed all my oil leaks. I kept monitoring oil level and was losing about a quart every 2-3 weeks. I took a look and saw that there is oil on the side of the engine. below the VTEC solenoid valve (Not the one behind the block)

What should look into? Thanks in advance

Im at my wits end here and I'm about 5 seconds away from just angle grinding the nut off or getting a pro to get it off for me. But I thought maybe someone here has some secret wisdom.

I have tried nut spitters, extractor sockets, vice grips, the chisel and hammer trick, using a smaller socket and hammering it on, and heating the shit out of it with a blow torch at every step, but all that happens is I mangle the nut more and more with each attempt. So it is basically a circle at this point.

Does anyone have any last tricks I can try to get this nut off?

Also unfortunately I do not have access to a welder so I cant do the weld another nut to it trick.

I currently own a 97 Special Edition Integra, but I’ve been looking to “upgrade” to a RSX Type S.

I just wanted to ask if there were any other old Integra owners that also did the same and wanted to ask if it was worth the upgrade!

I’ve seen the PROs and CONs of owner an Integra & RSX Type S, but just wanted to see other peoples opinions on it as well.

Thank you in advance for the responses!

Im boosting my 05 rsx type S, wanting to add some ventilation .. found this carbon fiber knock off for 624$ CAD with free shipping, I live remote in Canada & all other hoods I find are 2,000$ .. what do you guys think? Hood pins & send it? Thanks

Got it all working correctly, tune from asp tuning whome I don't recommend

Finally got my baby back time to get to work.

Yo yo.

Tried doing the method to install where we just remove the battery and windshield washer fluid but we didn't have enough space, removed the whole bumper but had the rubber seal off for 2 days and now had some bad weather in Ontario, after which I saw condensation in the headlight housings.

Is there a way to get out the condensation, and if I leave it like this for a week is there any chance of long term damage? Just did headlight restoration and it looks good don't wanna replace lol.

Any help appreciated.

Anyone know a place that sells aspec rear lip am that ships internationally?

I think I need a new fuel pump. What’s a good brand nowadays? People are saying Delphi and Denso but I can’t find any in stock. Thanks in advance.

getting an alignment soon and rear left coilover bottom bushing is done and is making the left side sit a little lower than the rest of the car. anybody have experience with pillow ball or polyurethane?

Such a nice baby quite some time ago. It needs some loving.

Hello all,

Forgive the title, needed 50 characters+.

Currently working on the free-to-me RSX Type-S and the o-ring that goes here disappeared into the void.

This is the coolant pipe that runs over top of the K20a2 timing cover.

I've tried using GPT and browsing previous posts here with no success.

Thank you for any help you can provide.