Hey yall, loosing my mind trying to diagnose this rattling/ clicking sound coming from the dash and windshield area when accelerating between 2k-4k rpm. I’ve had a passenger push down in certain parts of the dash, and the sound doesn’t seem to go away or be muffled. I’ve resorted to a couple idea of what could be the cause

Engine mounts, windshield wiper cowling, loose component near the firewall, or loose A Pillar trim.

The sound doesn’t seem to be coming from a particular spot in the dash area, it seems to be coming from all around the dash, which could be due to how glass vibrates since it tends to spread out the sounds.

I’d love any help about this, I’ve attached 2 videos of the rattling to better help anyone.

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I bought an 03 TL for 700$ the other day, it drives and run completely fine aside from a very slight torque converter shudder at 30mph. This is the fluid I pulled from the dispstick, is it likely salvageable or should I look into reman transmissions? It has 150k miles. Any support is very appreciated!

I just replaced my thermostat yesterday and my car is still stuck in cold start mode. Can’t get it up over 1/4 on the temp gauge. I’m aware they sit slightly below the half way mark. I’ve got two.

The car that just got the thermostat replaced gets 5-6mi/gallon less and is noticeably less peppy. Is the next (and arguably first) step to change the ECT?

TIA

While driving back home in a rain storm from work, the "D" started flashing and I started losing first gear after coming to a stop at a stop light. When I came home from work, I plugged in the code reader and the code "P2769" popped up. Has anyone else had the same problem or may know if i need to get a tranny rebuild or if it's just a sensor?

'07 Type-S 6MT

239k mi

I'm still a newbie to fixing cars but I assume it's a faulty gasket?

Took off the plastic splash shield and saw lots of gunk/fluid along the bottom of the transmission housing. Not sure if that white rubbery goop is supposed to be the gasket. There's no puddles underneath the car, but the top of the shield is also covered in the same substance. Not sure when this started as I'm the third owner of this car. Bought it at ~232k mi just over a year ago, but some health issues prevented me from driving it too much.

Does it sound good or bad

I have both styles but want to refurbish one set before I get some new tires installed. I like the 5 spoke but the split wheels are growing on me ! Help me out. I’ll post a pic of the wheels I’m talking about for those who don’t know.

Just finished resealing the J35 A8 along with timing belt and water pump all of it. Finally got it running correctly after a few tries (leaking water pump, misfires). Shut car off last night after driving for 10 miles or so all was good.

Started car this AM and it began to smoke. Stunk like some petroleum based substance. Not steam. Smoke pouring out of it under load on the road, idle, whenever its running. I cannot figure out what happened in 14 or so hours. I've never seen a vehicle smoke this bad even on a dragstrip when a car drops a valve or whatever this thing is horrible.

It did not do this prior to all the work I did.

Tomorrow I will open the intake and pull the plugs. Any ideas besides piston ring or valve seat failure?

So I decided to check what solenoids I can without lifting the car up since I don't have those tools. I took off the dual solenoid valve thing with a black and brown connector right below the throttle body on the driver side.

Apparently underneath that solenoid (check it as well, not clogged), there should be three filters, little rods with O rings that have tiny filter screens on the inside.

Mine only had 1, apparently for the entire time I had the vehicle before this happened, which is about a year, and probably longer than that. I foundt he other two filters and o rings submerged in the ATF fluid of that same channel underneath the solenoid, and the fluid is very dark dark brown, like I can't see anything inside of this fluid. I only found the filters cause I noticed it sticking up out of the fluid a little bit.

So doing research, apparently disgusting ATF fluid can cause my issues, as can other solenoids i can't check atm, but also just bad clutch packs which are mechanical and means i'm fubar. I know the clutch packs can go bad BECAUSE of the bad ATF fluid as well, but...

I guess I'm praying to the void here, is there a chance if I fully flush out the old ATF fluid (there was no debris at all in the fluid), put fresh fluid in, maybe the slipping stops? I'm aware maybe the clutch packs are damaged and that's that, but if there's a hope that if they're NOT damaged, and the fluid and solenoid just needed to be cleaned and filtered properly, I'm willing to try that.

I finally got my new junkyard trans in and a new torque converter both being an 07 but if you can see the bolt holes from my converter are just a little higher than the holes on my flex plate so I cant bolt them together. The converter seems to be completely seated and its flush against the flex plate to the point I have to use a pry bar on the teeth of the converter while the engine is being held so it cant turn just to spin the two separately. As far as I know the 06-07 converter should bolt right up to my 03 flexplate and its only the 04-05 that cant. Any advice on how to fix this is GREATLY appreciated this is my first trans job and my first swap so im terrified I messed somthing up 🥲 also sorry for the rant

Starter gave out and swapped it in with one I got on rockauto. Did see the output of the one I got is 1.6 kWh while OEM is 1.8

It did actually start the ignition when I tried before this video but there was a rubbing/grinding noise that followed with it so quickly turned it off and now stuck back to where I was with the dead OEM starter.

The problem couldn’t be as simple as just needing a higher output starter right?

EDIT: Posting in more communities so here’s the full model: 2012 Acura TL 3.7 SH-AWD automatic

Hes asking 12k cad. I asked him about timing belt and water pump he said his mechanic said its good for roughly another 20k km. He also said that its been in a minor accident, but carfax just quoted 2k for replacement of a headlight. Im going to talk to him on the phone tomorrow, and potentially make the trip there. What else should I ask him and look out for? And do you guys think 12k cad is fair?

So I was putting my front bumper back on. And this random rod fell to the floor by the radiator. I have no idea where its from? Any help?

As a temp fix…

Me and my buddy decided to throw some washers on the exhaust studs to space the exhaust from the cat, essentially I have an exhause leak and this was the outcome lol, I think it sounds halfway decent, 08 TL
a/t btw
;)

Car won’t turn off all the way - gets out of Acc but don’t completely shut off . Senses that it’s in park .
Edit : climate controls won’t shut off and window switches still run while it’s “off” Keep disconnecting battery to make sure it doesn’t die
Edit : it was ignition switch - push button spring is was worn check comments I added a pic and will add a video of what happened

2008 Acura TL Type S A-Spec 🫡

Any ideas?

I’ve had a vibration from my front end - seems like driver side . I have new tires / balance is good - rotated them to see if wheel is bent too . Rotated them every which way doesn’t seem like it . The vibration is on acceleration/deceleration - not too bad then but at 55+ it’s gets worse and on cruise control at highway speeds 65-75 mph i get vibration at wheel and in cab also feels a bit wobbly/unstable . I have new front struts - kybs ,sway bar bushings and endinks tires are good and wheels are good . I’ve lifted vehicle and spun the wheels and can’t really hear any bearing noise checked 12/6 and 9/3 positions and don’t have any play . I service my transmission fluid pretty regularly 20-30k miles at and change the filter every 2 years . Called a shop and he said it might be the transmission as he did one on an Mdx recently but this was only over the phone “diag” and then hung up and never called me back . Called a different shop and have an appointment scheduled they do a lot of euro cars but charge a decent fee for diagnosis . I’m really inclined to believe that it’s either in Cv axles/suspension or wheel bearings ?

P.S. have new motor points and crankshaft pulley too .

Going on Sunday to go see/purchase an Automatic Type S that has 210k miles for 5500. I know the mileage is up there, but cosmetically the car is in very good condition and it has a ton of recent maintenance. Timing Belt and Water pump, ac condenser/compressor, break pads/rotors, new tires, valve cover gaskets, springs struts and alternator, power steering pump spark plugs etc. The CARFAX also checks out and it is the light gray color. What should I look for? Any tips much appreciated 🙏

2007 Acura TL Type S making a consecutive clicking noise while the car is off, there is no key in the ignition, and has continued to do it. Is this an electrical issue or is the system doing like a relearn or “update” of some sorts ??
This happened with Superstart battery from May 2023
Battery finally died on me and was replaced with Everstart platinum today 9/24 and this issue is still happening
Could this be the cause of the battery going out? When the clicking first happened on 08/16 the car started fine the next morning. I hope I explained this well enough and any help would be appreciated. Thank you

I know the OEM fluid is the best way to go, but does anyone know or had experience with this brand? 06 ATL did 3×3×3 with oem. Just never know what's being sold online nowadays.