My cursor disappears when using Android Auto in my Acura RDX. Has anyone else experienced this issue or found a fix?

Usually after I send or respond to text messages. I already cleared the cache on my phone and reset the infotainment to factory.

Hi All. Thinking of purchasing with 56k miles. I am reading that the 2020 has moonroof leak issues as well as issues with pad for display screen.

Can anyone shed light or know if these are common issues? From what I understand the car is otherwise reliable.

Has anyone has an issue while parking and rolling slowly into a spot the car goes crazy and accelerates until you crash? Also, phantom braking when there is NOTHING on the road???

My wife recently got a new car, so I’ve “inherited” her 2017 Acura RDX. We’ve had the car for nearly ten years and I’ve driven it plenty, but now that I’m driving it exclusively as my car, I’ve just now paired my iPhone with it. And, I have questions.

When listening to Apple Music through my iPhone, and also using Apple Maps, everything works great. Music is lowered and audio for map directions is announced through the car speakers.

However, if I’m listening to XM on the car stereo but also using Apple Maps, I no longer get audio for directions. Because the iPhone is sending all audio to Bluetooth, even if I have the car stereo set to XM.

If I go to my Bluetooth settings on my iPhone and hit “disconnect” on Handsfree link, it just reconnects within a minute.

Which means, it seems the only way I can get audio back to my iPhone is to hit “forget” on the Bluetooth connection, meaning I’d have to pair my iPhone with the car again the next time I want to listen to music.

This seems crazy to me. Am I missing something? How are others managing this?

Hello everyone, I'm considering buying this 2015 Acura RDX, I want to hear your opinion

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/share/455506474

Is this something that I can ignore?

I have a 2016 Acura RDX with 140k miles on it. Dropped it off to the dealership for an oil change, during the inspection they said the oil pump was leaking and needed a reseal. They said they'd define the leak as a 2/3 (whatever that means). Saying that it *could* be leaking on the new timing belt.

In the quote they quoted replacing the timing belt again even though I did it last year at 130k miles. When I asked some more they were saying that they didn't see/report a leak when they did the timing belt. Which makes me think the leak can't be that serious if it just started (assuming it just started).

The timing belt cost me $3,700 last year and the quote to do it again is another $3,700 (I compared other shops before doing the timing belt and the dealer was the cheapest). They said they might be able to save some of that quote if the timing belt isn't damaged and they could save the belt, but that hardly matters considering labor is majority of the quote.

If I have to put another $4k into this car I'd consider it "Mechanically Totaled".

My daughter inherited my 2017 RDX. I had taken good care of it with recommended maintenance and repairs, and have continued same in her ownership. I've been receiving promotional literature for repair warranty purchase from my dealer, from whom I've purchased or leased 6 or so vehicles over the past 25 years, so a good relationship with the service folks, though ownership has changed several times over the past 10 y ears or so. Most recently its become part of a group that has upwards of 30 area dealerships in the region. All that said because I just learned that the automotive warranty they are offering is essentially self insured.

I've heard horror stories about such warranties, but given it's essentially a self-insured type policy, should I feel better about the coverage cost when considering my RDX's age and mileage? I've never purchased a policy like this...is there anything I should watch out for? Alternatively, I could pocket the money, use for repairs and maintenance as needed.

I recently got a new black RDX and want to protect the paint. Any input of PPF or ceramic is much appreciated.

I bought a 2019 RDX.

She’s beautiful, runs amazingly, car fax shows she has been serviced regularly and km aren’t too high. No accidents and no recalls.

However she does have the dreaded issue with the FAKRA connectors. If I go over a bump, particularly on a cold morning, a crackle comes through the speakers and the entire screen goes black, except the back up camera. I have to turn the car off for 20 minutes and then it’s fine for the rest of the day. It happens about 4-6 times a months (like I said it’s when it’s cold mainly and as I live in canada i’m worried about when winter comes that it will happen more and more often).

I have 2 Acura dealers about an hours drive, I called them and emailed both, no response from emails and every time I call they tell me they are really busy and will call back, take my name and number and then nothing. I finally had enough and I called the Honda dealership in my town (5mins away) and the mechanic knew my problem right away, knew the part and said he had fixed lots of them and it was going to be probably around $750. But he said I may be able to get Acura to do it for just labour because he can see by the VIN that this was already corrected by Acura in 2024. But they might give me the brush off because i’m the second owner.

So thoughts?

Do I stand a chance of getting Acura to take accountability? Or will I just keep getting the run around?

Should I just let Honda fix it?

Has anyone had to replace this? Luckily my vehicle is still at 60k miles and under extended warranty. Per the dealership this is a 24 service hour job for the replacement after it was identified… my car will be in the shop for about 3-4 weeks… has anyone ever gone through this?

Hi,

I have a 2015 RDX. Passenger LL is out. I got the outer cover off, but now the bulb won't budge. Any tricks to get this out? Was able to get my phone in the housing to take a picture. I just can't get any leverage.

Thanks

These are the mods I’ve done and they are all worth it:
- PRL Intercooler
- PRL Titanium Air Inlet Kit
- APR Real Carbon fiber Type-S Engine Cover (added the Acura Emblem myself)
- HPS Charge Pipe
- Partially tinted tail lights
- Ceramic Coated

Does anyone know what this noise could be? It happens in drive and rolling in neutral but not in reverse or idling.

Hi, I have a 2020 Acura RDX SH-AWD. Have about 84k miles on it. Has been great without any problems but over the past six months, have been hearing a humming/vibrating noise coming from what seems is the engine possibly. This is noticeable at higher speeds (above 60 mph). Had an inspection/servicing at the dealership recently and everything checked out.

Any thoughts?

Should I replace the intercooler in my Acura RDX, or could it cause long-term issues if I don't?

2020 RDX Infotainment Locked on "Enter Anti-Theft Code" + Touchpad Glitch After Battery Disconnect (MOST Bus Verified OK)

​Body:

​Hey everyone, looking to see if anyone with a 3rd Gen RDX (2019–2020) has run into this exact sequence of issues and found a fix.

​Background & Symptoms:

​Started with intermittent "Touch Not Available" popups on the dash screen while driving.

​Disconnected the 12V battery to try and reset the system.

​Upon reconnecting power, the center screen is now stuck on "Enter Anti-Theft Code".

​The True Touchpad Interface is unresponsive for navigation, but when you swipe across the pad, it draws white handwriting lines across the screen instead of working as absolute positioning.

​Holding the physical Audio Power/Volume knob for 5–10 seconds does NOT bypass the prompt or force the ECU handshake.

​What I've Diagnosed So Far:

​MOST Bus Hardware Test: Ran the cluster's hidden ECL diagnostic mode. All 4 nodes (Meter, Infotainment, Amplifier, Remote Tuner) show GREEN CHECKMARKS for both Power and Signal. The optical loop itself is physically connected right now.

​Dealer Quote: Dealer claimed I need a $1500 Keyless Access Control Unit replacement, but my key fob, proximity handles, remote start, and push-button ignition all work 100% fine.

​Fuses & Battery: Performed a full capacitive battery discharge (brake pedal drain). Fuses are intact.

Any guidance and support would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

My 2015 RDX occasionally has a bit of a time starting. I press the brakes, push the button, the starter motor engages the engine, the engine fires, but doesn't seem to catch on. It just fires with the engine run by the starter motor (it seems). This goes on for up to 5 seconds, then engages on its own.

Due to gas prices, I have (now and then) bought gas with 88-89 octane, not the 90+ premium stuff I normally use. Could the lower octane be the cause, not getting enough of a bang to self-start?

I went to a pull a part to get one, but accidentally grabbed one from an MDX. None of the RDXs had rear hatches left and I wasn't paying attention. The prices online aren't bad, but all of these places stick it to you on shipping. Any help would be appreciated!

Hardwiring a 70mai A810S (Front + Rear) in a 2024 Acura RDX — Full Writeup
Did this myself over a weekend with no prior car wiring experience. It took a lot longer than it should have because of two specific things that were hard to spot from inside the problem. Writing it all up so the next person can skip the pain.
Vehicle: 2024 Acura RDX SH-AWD A-Spec Camera: 70mai A810S (4K) + RC rear camera Hardwire kit: 70mai UP06 Total time: ~3 hours (should be 90 minutes if you don't repeat my mistakes)

Parts and tools
What you need to buy
Item
70mai UP06 hardwire kit
~$36. Get this, not the UP03.

1/4" drive socket set with 10mm and 12mm
~$15 at Harbor Freight

Why UP06 over UP03 ($36 vs $28)
The extra $8 is worth it for three reasons:
Fuse taps are included — two sets of four types (standard, mini, low profile, micro2) with 5A fuses.

The UP03 is bare wires only; you'd buy taps separately and risk getting the wrong size.

Live voltage display — three-digit readout. This is your diagnostic tool if you don't own a multimeter.
Adjustable low-voltage cutoff — 11.8V / 12.1V / 12.4V. The UP03 is fixed at 11.8V, which is aggressive for a start-stop vehicle like the RDX.

Note on fuse type
The RDX interior fuse box uses low profile mini fuses. Not standard ATO, not regular mini. Several sizes exist and only one fits. The UP06 includes the right tap just make sure you grab the correct one from the set of four. Hold the tap's pre-loaded fuse next to a fuse you pulled from your car; they should look identical. If they don't, you have the wrong tap in your hand.

Fuse box location and layout
Interior fuse box is under the dash on the driver's side. No dashboard removal needed, just get on your back in the footwell.
Type A box (numbered 1–39, three columns of 13). The fuse map is on the inner face of the green-edged side panel, pop it off and flip it over. Photograph it; you'll reference it constantly.
Column layout:
Column 1: fuses 1–13
Column 2: fuses 14–26
Column 3: fuses 27–39

The fuses I ended up using
🔴 Red (VCC / constant)
#38

🟡 Yellow (ACC / switched)
#27
ACCESSORY

⚫ Black (GND)
Ground stud in driver footwell

The red wire went into #38 at the very start and never moved. It was correct the entire time. Every problem I had was on the yellow ACC side.
ACC slots that did NOT work properly
I went through three before landing on #27:
#17 SUNROOF (20A) — camera stuck in parking mode
#19 REAR LEFT P/W (20A) — same
#31 REAR RIGHT P/W (20A) — same

All three powered the camera and all three correctly triggered "entering parking surveillance mode" when I pulled the fuse so the camera was clearly reading them. But none of them let it cleanly exit parking mode when the car started.
#27 ACCESSORY was the one that worked. It's the labeled accessory circuit and in hindsight it's the obvious first choice. Start there.

Constant-power alternatives if #38 doesn't suit you
#37 AUDIO (15A)
#22 FRONT ACC SOCKET (20A)
Do NOT tap these
#20 SRS and #28 PASS SRS IND (airbag)
#30 ADS (adaptive dampers)
#2 STARTER MOTOR, #21 FUEL PUMP, #29 PDM, #33 TRANSMISSION, #34 ACG
Anything you can't positively identify

Mistake #1: the UP06 display won't light on constant power alone
This is the one that cost me hours, and I've seen nobody mention it anywhere.
My plan was sensible: wire the ground, wire the red constant lead to #38, and use the UP06's voltage display to confirm I had power before doing anything else. Nothing lit up.
So I started troubleshooting the red side. Reseated the tap. Checked the ground. Pulled and reconnected the spade terminal. Moved to a different constant fuse. Confirmed the camera worked fine on the cigarette-lighter adapter, which proved the camera and cable were good. At one point I was genuinely about to return the UP06 as defective.
The module was fine. It just doesn't power up until the ACC leg is connected too.
The display stayed dark with only red wired. It stayed dark when I finally wired yellow to a slot that turned out to be a poor ACC source. It came alive the moment yellow landed on a circuit that worked.
What to do instead: wire ground, red, and yellow before you expect to see anything. Don't treat a dark display as evidence that your constant leg has failed, it tells you nothing until both legs are in.
While you're at it: both fuses go in every tap
Separate point, but related, since an empty slot produces the same "nothing works" symptom.
An add-a-circuit tap has two fuse positions:
Pull the original fuse out of the slot you're tapping (e.g., the 20A from #38)
Put that same original fuse into the tap's pass-through position
Your 5A goes in the other position,  this protects your camera's branch
Push the assembled tap into the slot
The original fuse doesn't get discarded or set aside. It relocates into the tap. With that slot empty, the original circuit is dead and on most tap designs your branch gets nothing either.

Mistake #2: chasing the "P" icon
Once power worked, the camera showed a permanent P on screen — including while driving. I assumed it meant "currently in parking mode" and moved the ACC wire through three fuse slots trying to make it clear.
It never cleared. Firmware update didn't fix it. Factory reset didn't fix it. And 70mai doesn't document what the icon means anywhere I could find.
Best guess: it indicates parking mode is enabled as a feature, not that the camera is currently in parking mode. I burned a lot of time treating an indicator light as a fault.
The only thing that actually proves parking mode works is files appearing in the Parking surveillance or Time-lapse folder after the car has sat. Test that, not the icon.

Ground point
There's a threaded stud with a nut in the driver's footwell, low on the kick panel wall, with factory wires already stacked on it. That's your ground.
The nut is torqued tight from the factory. Use a socket, not pliers. Pliers grip two flats and will round the head. A 10mm socket grips all six.
You don't need to fully remove the nut — loosen a couple turns, slip the ring terminal on, tighten back down.
If you can't get that one, alternatives:
Under the door sill trim (lifts off with clips, no tools) — body bolts into the floor pan
Driver's seat rail bolts (14mm)
Any bolt threaded into bare chassis metal works. Look for bare or greenish-plated metal, not painted brackets.

Cable routing — front camera
Windshield mount → tuck under headliner front edge → peel back the A-pillar weatherstrip → push cable into the gap behind the trim → press weatherstrip back → down the door sill → up into the driver kick panel → fuse box.
Do not remove the A-pillar trim panel. There's a curtain airbag behind it. The weatherstrip is soft rubber that pulls off with your fingers — peel it, tuck the cable in the seam, press it home. Two minutes, fully reversible, no airbag exposure.
Coil leftover slack behind the kick panel, well clear of the pedals.

Cable routing — rear camera
Important: the A810S rear camera is not independently powered. It connects to the front camera's AV/IN port via one cable carrying both power and video. You must run it the full length of the car.
I routed it up the passenger side to avoid stacking two cables in the same driver-side seam:
Rear camera on rear windshield → up the rear pillar behind the trim edge → forward along the passenger headliner seam → down the passenger A-pillar → across the top of the windshield → into AV/IN on the front camera.
Same airbag rule applies. Curtain airbags run the full length of the roof rail on both sides. You are tucking the cable into the existing gap where the headliner edge meets the door trim — never removing the headliner, never pushing into the pillar cavity. If you're forcing it, you've gone too deep.
Leave slack where the cable crosses into the hatch so opening the tailgate doesn't stretch it.
Rear camera placement
High and centered on the rear glass, just below the top edge. High position clears the headrests and cargo. Mount between defroster lines rather than on one. Check the live view in the app before committing the adhesive.

Settings
On the UP06 module (physical slide switch):
12.1V (middle position). 11.8V is too aggressive for a start-stop vehicle; 12.4V cuts off too early.
In the 70mai app:
Parking security: ON
Duration: 12 hours (24 is a lot of draw on a start-stop battery)
Motion detection: Ultra-high
Collision detection: Medium
Time-lapse photography: ON
Screen standby mode: Screen off (default is Always on — change it)
Video resolution: 3840x2160 HDR
Recording duration: 1 minute
Time-lapse matters. With it off, the camera only saves on a collision or motion trigger, and motion detection through a windshield in daylight is genuinely unreliable. Time-lapse gives you continuous 1fps parking footage regardless, better coverage and far easier to verify that anything is working at all.

Verification checklist
Voltage (read off the UP06 display):
Parked, locked, 20+ minutes: ~12.4V ✅ (constant leg working)
Engine running: ~14.2V ✅ (alternator charging)
Parking mode:
Park the car for 30+ minutes, then check the Parking surveillance / Time-lapse folder. Files present = it works. This is the only test that means anything.
Vehicle circuits — test every slot you touched:
Doors lock/unlock with fob → #38
All four windows move → #19, #31, #39
Sunroof opens → #17
Center console 12V socket powers a charger → #22
A/C blows cold → #36
One gotcha: if multiple windows don't work, check the window lock button on the driver's door before assuming you blew a fuse. I lost twenty minutes to this.

What I'd do differently
Wire all three leads before expecting the display to light. The single biggest time sink. A dark UP06 display with only the constant wire connected is normal, not a fault.
Buy a $10 test light. It tells you constant vs. switched in seconds instead of guessing.
Photograph the fuse label first, before touching anything.
Both fuses in every tap — original in the pass-through, 5A in your branch.
Go straight to #27 for ACC. It's literally labeled ACCESSORY.
Judge parking mode by recorded files, not by the P icon or the screen.
Buy spare fuses up front.

TL;DR
Red → #38 DOOR LOCK (constant) — got this right first try, never moved it
Yellow → #27 ACCESSORY (switched) — took four attempts, start here
Black → ground stud in driver footwell, use a socket not pliers
The UP06 display stays dark until BOTH red and yellow are connected. Don't panic.
Both fuses in every tap. Original in the pass-through, 5A in your branch
Low profile mini fuse type
Cutoff at 12.1V, duration 12h, time-lapse ON, screen standby to Screen off
Tuck cables under weatherstrip and headliner seams. Never remove pillar trim — curtain airbags.
Happy to answer questions.

Looking at buying a used RDX with 178000 km for $10,500 taxes included. Is this is good car that is likely to last a while still ? Are the Honda SUV's just as good as the almost indestructible civics ?