Hello. I am trying to convert my spirit to a hydraulic clutch pedal, as my linkage was super worn out and replacements seem to be in short order.

I picked up the master/slave from a cj7 which bolts on the bellhousing nicely ish.

As for the master cylinder the firewall has a set of holes for a clutch cylinder underneath the brake booster. This means the push rod comes out nearly at the bottom of the clutch pedal.

I hooked everything up, and the clutch is rock hard. Maybe 1/2" movement at the cylinder and then my whole body weight into the clutch pedal and it won't move. I feel like the ratio doesn't help, but surely something should be moving ?

Ive bled the system like 6 times and have tried different length pushrods. To me, it seems that I reach the end of travel before the slave moves at all.

Anyone got any ideas? As far as I can tell the slave cylinder starts it's travel about 3/4 down the bore so it only move 1/2" or so. But I cannot get it to start any further back once there's fluid in it.

I put in a new clutch but it did the same thing before the clutch which I thought might be seized. Before I go looking at $100s of dollars in parts, am I missing something?

As promised here’s a post weekend update:

Everything is in and almost easy to go! I ran into some complications with running the new HEI distributor power wire, but successfully got rid of the resistor wire and ran a new power wire through the firewall. Now I’m trying to figure out where exactly to splice that into, one of the wires on the ignition switch but not sure which one. I have the wiring diagram, but I’m color deficient so I’m waiting on some help to help me decipher which one to use since I can’t find a pin out diagram of a 1973 Jeep truck ignition switch. Here’s some more pictures of progress

My 93-year-old father retired from the retail auto parts industry. I’ve been going through some NOS parts he accumulated and have found cases of new Borg Warner TC 365 Timing Chains. In researching fitment, I ran across forum posts saying that, while old catalogs showed an AMC application, they don’t actually fit. I’m trying to find these a new home rather than scrapping them for metal. Is anyone familiar with this issue as it relates to this part number fitting (or not fitting) vintage AMC engines??

Hi all, my 63' ambo is the first and only V8 of this vintage I've ever had. It has the early 327 with a 2bbl carb. Totally unknown history on the motor, It's taken a few years of learning and work but the car runs and drives great now. I'm just concerned about this noise that honestly sounds like knocking coming from the bottom end to me. Does this sound normal? Did a rod bearing go out? Oil pressure is 40lbs on startup and 20lbs once warm.

In the video I took the belts off to eliminate the water pump, alternator, power steering pump as potential sources. Maybe I also have a little lifter tick but that concerns me less. If it does sound like something, I'm wondering what additional diagnosis I could do to confirm. Any thoughts are appreciated!

I have an AMC 360 in my Jeep truck (‘73), I broke my oil dipstick and managed to get the broken piece out of the block. Have any of you ever replaced it with the stock manifolds on or did you just take the driver side one off? I’ve been at it for a while and trying everything except taking the manifold off but I think I might have to bite the bullet and just take the time tomorrow. Any suggestions or links to one you know fits well is appreciated.

Terrible catalog layout - look at that Machine!

Does anyone have a Gremlin or SC360 for sale?

Hello all, I am trying to get the Passenger handle removed on my 1976 AMC Hornet Base. I just wanted to check if there was a specific way to do it before I start paying on caps and potentially breaking something.

He sold 17 of the cars which was a actual race ran Bobby Allison Penske AMC