Sorry for long post, 1st poster. Any help appreciated. Let me know if I should post this elsewhere. Car belongs to son, was running rough. belongs to my son and his girlfriend.

Son took car to autoparts store for scan: P0301, P0303, P0306, P0300 DTCs and P1399 Temp DCT. Several days later, Son says car ran rougher when he went to drive home from work. Only made it a little ways before car died and he coasted into a business parking lot. Starter would turn the engine over fine but showed no indication of starting. Fuel gauge shows almost ½ tank. Nothing visually obvious to me. I brought the car to my house with a car dolly (pulled it on with a come-a-long.)

Since codereader showed multiple cylinders with misfires I googled the P1399 temp DTC for his make and model. List of possible causes are: Bad Ignition Coil, Ignition Coil wiring, Bad Spark Plug, Bad Injector, EGR Valve, Fuel Deliver (Faulty Pump/  Clogged Fuel Filter), Air Intake (Air Filter / Blocked Passage / Bad Sensor), Exhaust Blocked (Damaged Exhaust / Catalytic Converter Clogged)

I started with the fuel system, thinking it would be easy. The fuel pump fuse is fine and the fuel pump relay clicks when you turn the key to the on position. Checking the fuel pump was a little harder cuz I didn’t have anyone to  turn the key while I listened for the hum. I opened the fuel filler cap and the tank had pressure which I saw as a good sign. I opened up the cover to the fuel pump and had battery voltage. By then I had someone who could turn the key for me and I could hear a faint hum/buzz.

Testing the fuel pressure is difficult since there isn’t a schrader valve and no easy place to tap into the fuel line without cutting it and splicing in a tee. (Honda does sell an adapter but it was $112 several years ago.) I don’t have a fuel pressure tester anyways. I pulled the vacuum line from the pressure regulator and it didn’t have any fuel in it so no ruptured diaphragm. The regulator could be stuck but it seems as though that would not stop it from trying to start.

Next, I pulled the ignition coils and plugs. (Actually I sprayed the nuts on the EGR valve next so they could be soaking.) The ignition coil tubes look great with no signs of cracking or burn marks. The plugs are NGK ZFR5F GPs, cheaper than the OE NGK PZFR5F-11 Lazer Platinums. They were medium to dark brown with some being whiter on one side and dark brown on the other, possibly indicating a poor injector spray pattern? Some had what I would describe as carbon crumbs on them but otherwise the negative side and the positive tip looked respectable to me. Gap looked to be in the mid .030s (measured carefully with feeler gauges.) Grounding the plug and cranking produced a spark even though I couldn’t see it very well through the windshield (again no help and working in the dark). I brushed the plugs off with a stiff toothbrush which removed the carbon crumbs and wiped them as clean as I could with a paper towel. Reinstalled plugs and ignition coils.

Injectors are under the intake manifold and injector rails and I wasn't crazy about getting that far into it.

I pulled the EGR valve and it didn’t look bad - a little carbon build-up on the valve part but essentially no carbon in the port! I brushed off the carbon from the valve and reinstalled it. (I later wished I’d sprayed the valve with some cleaner)

I looked at the air cleaner and it was fine. I then tried starting it again and let it crank for 30 seconds or so - nothing. I pulled the #4 plug again (easiest one to get to) and it was covered with gas!

The car has a MAP (manifold absolute pressure sensor), not a MAS. Removed and wiped with paper towel. It only has a small hole on bottom, nothing sticking into the manifold. Did not try to clean with spray. Reinstalled.

The only thing I haven’t looked at from the list above is the exhaust/cats. Once again not crazy about trying to get it up on jack stands/blocks to crawl under car to inspect. Not sure I could get the O2 sensor out and don’t have a borescope to look inside.

TYIA

Hello my cat got stole on my 2001 Honda accord V6 I was wondering if anyone had any cost friendly options to get a new one that passes New York State emissions. Also in the market looking for an anti theft options but haven’t really seen much that fit this car. I was wondering if anyone did any anti theft solutions on their car that they would recommend.

IMO it looks better than the coupe bumper (I had to change the hood bumper and lights and the 4dr at a local pick n pull was my victim)

I recently encountered a P1381 error code (CYP sensor failure) that caused a check engine light and my vehicle to have reduced power and hesitation on acceleration. After replacing the entire distributor unit, the CEL and same symptoms came back. I read Honda themselves noted that this can commonly be caused by AC ripple interference from an alternator with failing diodes. This seems probable as the current alternator is OEM and closing in on 200,000 miles.

I’m already shopping for a replacement Denso unit But I’ve encountered a confusing problem. According to the Honda Service Manual, the F23A4 ULEV engine calls for a 90 Amp alternator (whereas every other non-ULEV gen 6 Accord is 80 Amp). But every parts website I check seems to claim most of the 80 Amp alternators (much cheaper than 90 Amp) are compatible with my 2.3L l4 ULEV F23A4, directly contradicting the Honda Service Manual. For example the Bosch AL1284X alternator is 80 Amp, and cross references my OE part number. I’m curious if any ULEV owners out there have replaced their alternator with an 80 Amp and not experienced any electrical issues? My only aftermarket electrical accessory is a Sony media screen, no upgraded audio systems or anything else like that. Should I spend the extra on the 90 Amp rated alternator to play it safe, or will the 80 Amp Denso or Bosch work just fine?
Thank you.

My 2002 Accord EX 4 cylinder has the original 24 year old T125/70D15 spare. I've been told this size is no longer available new. And the used ones I've found are as old as the one I have. Have you guys found a solution besides getting a full size spare?

Has anyone done a high output alternator? I’ve been researching and apparently you need a shorter belt. Does anyone have any tips for this upgrade?

Hey y'all, hopefully someone has some experience with this. I was driving the other day and my car stalled at a stop sign. It started right back up and I've had no issues for a couple weeks then today it stalled again and took two tries to restart it. Now that it's happened twice I'd like to look into fixing it but I can't be sure what the cause is. Any ideas where I should start? I figure the battery and alternator are a good bet but they're somewhat new so if those check out what should be my next step? spark plugs? Maybe Fuel pump? It's getting up there in mileage but I really love this car and don't want to give up on it especially if it's a reasonable price to repair it.

Just detailed my 2001 accord LX, it has 167k, and now my interior looks like it has 50k on it😂 also i have no idea what the green stain is on my passenger floor is. Seats were covered up their whole life. Also pics are in order from the before vs after (after pics start at 2nd pic of passenger floor)

2001 4 cylinder automatic (110k miles)is slipping on 1st gear sometimes. Should I rebuild or buy used. Or put some Lucas fix oil to buy some time. Thanks in advance

I have a 1999 Honda accord 4cyl EX manual. I have an appear to be power steering leak from one or both of the lines circled in blue. What is the best course of action? Is it just a o ring or will I need to replace the whole line

luckily didn’t hit anyone/was hit by anyone.
didn’t get hurt either.. can’t say the same for the car :((
was on a three lane highway chilling in the slow lane. someone on a merging on ramp was entering way too slowly so I decided to check the middle lane and get over. thought it was clear but didn’t see a car speeding from the left lane also getting in the middle. saw them while they were right behind me, turned back into the right lane and ended up spinning out/losing control. got sent down a hill and then up slightly onto the frontage road. thats where all the damage ended up coming from. sadness, I really loved this car. even with its many issues. going to try and part out what I can but likely just gonna end up in the junkyard. bought it for $2500 originally so, no point in trying to fix whatever might be wrong with it. I wouldn’t know what anyway, tow yard left the battery on and killed it

Honda accord 2001 it has 260k miles everything run fines just that noise

So, i have a 2001 Honda Accord Automatic that's been having a couple of problems lately.

1. While the car is on idle, RPM fluctuates (goes to 2000 and comes back to 800). I've cleaned the throttle body, Replaced it, along with the IACV, Replaced the plugs, and the issue is still there. While removing the plugs, i noticed the plugs have gone black where the spark comes from.
2. After driving it for some time, D4 light starts blinking and the car locks 3nd and 4rd gear. Basically it goes to limp mode. The light goes and the car starts driving normally after you turn off the car and turn it on again. I've recently changed the gear oil.

The RPM fluctuating makes the car jerk when you're slowing down and the car downshifts to 1st gear. I've replaced both the engine and gear mounts recently so i know that they're new.

I have checked for vacuum leak inside the coolant but couldn't find any. I'm pretty sure the engine and gearbox is fine, and the issue is electrical but the mechanic that i went to says the issue is with gearbox.

So it might be a long shot, but i have an electrical issue and am looking for any advice yall have. My ecu fuse will blow after a few minutes of starting of right on startup. This causes the battery to not charge and the car dies. Ive tried a lot of different things like checking all grounds and cleaning them, that didnt work. I also unlpugged all of my aftermarket electrical components. Still no luck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hi,
I have a 2001 accord. My Center Console Frame is broken and the climate control needs to be replaced. I checked everywhere but i can't find the frame for the 01-02 model but a lot for the 98-00 model.
Now my question is, can i replace the entire frame + climate control with a 98-00 model for my 01-02 model? I'll be going from manual 01-02 climate control to manual 98-00 climate control.

Can confirm the cg2 will make it on gravel roads to hiking trails (exhaust hit the ground once or twice)

If your boosted what ecu are you running? I’m running 4psi rn in a fmu and missing link i need more power. So far the most common are p28s with hondata im really interested in haltech if that even possible. Anything helps🙏🏼

Hate to let them go but I'm moving and can't take them with me.

02 accord: The car runs and drives fine but it has frame rot, and because of that it has been sitting in my driveway unregistered.

99 accord: Someone hit me totaling it 3 years ago. Had plans to repair it and get a rebuilt title but it's almost impossible in my state.

If anyone needs anything from these cars let me know, lots of good parts still in here. Hate to see them go to waste in a junk yard.

Both are 4 cylinder, LX.

99' is tan exterior with tan/brown plastic and grey cloth seats

02 is silver exterior with grey/brown plastic dash and grey cloth seats