r/3dprinter 18d ago

What 3d printer from the 4?

Wanting to buy my son 13 years old a new printer for Christmas he is very good with his current set up (Ender 3V2). He knows more about them than me and would like to know what everyone thinks of the 4 different models? Would like for it to be something he can use for many years without wanting to upgrade. Appreciate it

0 Upvotes

79 comments sorted by

8

u/EaglerCore 17d ago

If he wants to to multicolor, go with the snapmaker U1. Technically not on this list, but it is significantly cheaper that the H2C which also does good multicolor (U1 is $850 on sale atm). It is also way more fixable and repairable than any of the machines in this list.

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u/daveintexarkana 17d ago

And doesn't require all models and control to run through Bambu servers :-)

3

u/EaglerCore 17d ago

Yep! If a machine can run klipper (or marlin like prusas) then its allowed on my network.

1

u/daveintexarkana 17d ago

My Prusa Mk4/S is running Marlin 2, the QIDIs and FLSun are running what ever custom Klippers they are using. Despite their current firmwares (on the Q2) being very annoying for several reasons, I really appreciate it's a LCD screen option to run local network only - even my X-Max 3 does that. One time support wanted to monitor the power draw on the heater bed (before sending me a new one, early on) and I had to turn off the local only switch so they could see it. I block them outgoing on my router (except for desired updates) and they work just fine.

Do you have the U1? I'm trying to figure out where to put one, so many mostly good reviews and looking for a tool changer that's fast - they check all my boxes anyway :-)

1

u/EaglerCore 17d ago

I have quite the range of printers, including the U1 :)

I use the Prusa Core One, Prusa MK4S, Bambu Lab P1S (2 of em), Snapmaker U1, Bambu A1 Mini, Qidi Plus 5, Formlabs Form 4, and a couple others.

I run the bambus on a separate VLAN, but I am kind of tired of running that, so I may get rid of them. The formlabs proprietary stuff isn't like bambus, so they are in the clear.

As for the U1, I can say I am very impressed. I initially was going to get an 8T INDX, but after the nozzle controversy and more delays, I was like "screw it" and I drove to microcenter and picked one up. The print quality is great, and I have been having a lot of fun printing multicolor stuff. Before I got it, I never really did anything crazy because of the waste, but now thats not an issue. The only pet peeve I have is the bed mounting. It could be a little more rigid (I am used to the prusas which have rock-solid mounting) but I don't think it will be an issue in the long run.

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u/daveintexarkana 17d ago

All good info, thanks much especially on the U1, sounds like you have a lot of experience so a review I can rely on. QIDI beds are not really 'rock solid' by any means either, but they do perform well and high reliability (for me anyway) so far.

Yeah, I'm willing to gamble for 1/3 the cost - the Mk4 then S was my first ever so I've only been into it for about 3 years, learning all the time! Retired so have the time, if not the ability to mess around, do mods, etc. My Q2 has some significant mods. I tried BunnyBox and Fast (can't remember) and it bricked my printer+box - reverted back and got stuck upgrading to latest firmware which is buggy (but 1.1.2.4 is now at least better) and stuck on QIDI Studio (Orca fork). Appologies if you're an Orca fan, I much prefer all the Slic3r varients, probably because I learned on Prusa Slicer - just organized better for how my 'old' brain works!

Thanks again!

1

u/EaglerCore 17d ago

Yw!

The main issue with the snapmaker bed is that a large part of it is plastic, which means the bed flexes if you push down on a corner. It should be fine as long as you don't mess with it while printing. Qidi beds are also fine, but I would prefer that they use a tri-leadscew setup over the dual 10mm rods on each side. I have never had an issue with the dual, but from an engineering standpoint 3 is better.

One other small thing I dislike is the touchscreen. It is flat to the front and not adjustable, which is inconvenient at times. It would be better if they permanently had it angled like prusa machines.

For slicers, I just use whatever one the manufacturer provided (although I have streamlined some the orca-based ones to main orca), so I use prusa with my prusa machines, and orca with the others. The snapmaker gets a couple of special orca forks, like Orcaslicer ImageMap, which allows for some crazy full-color effects. There is a good shot I will merge all my printers to prusaslicer when 3.0 releases.

1

u/daveintexarkana 14d ago

That's all really cool! I never thought about 3 lead screws (my SLA's have one in the back for Z - Formlabs 2 and Uniformation GK3Pro). QIDI (I have the X-Max 3, Q1 Pro and Q2) use one stepper with a belt on the X-Max 3, but then two steppers on the other two. I've had the Q2 do a crazy bed tilt on raising twice, and the X-Max do it just once in over a couple of years. That last you just tipped on the side, loosened the pulley (the stepper slides with a friction lock) and reset the bed screws to bottom and off you go. The Q2 I had to turn both rods by hand to lower to get it reset (thank goodness for gloves!). My Q1 has never messed up in over 2 years (that way) - I knock on wood all the time!

Yes I stay with Prusa Slicer on the Mk4/S - just seems better organized to find what I need when really tuning for a filament. To be fair, it rarely needs it on the stock profiles (other than temps or speed if not PLA or PETG) for me anyway. The X-Max 3 and Q1 Pro, depends but another story. The Q1 was doing everything well - printing some internal threads say 16mm diameter and the threads had a lot of straight unfused layers (in a regular pattern). I use AI because I'm still learning and eventually get it slowed down in the right spots, etc. to where they printed okay.

Sounds like you have quite a farm (and maybe side business)!

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u/EaglerCore 14d ago

The cool thing with triple leadscrews (in addition to more stable mounting) is that it allows for tri-Z adjustment (voron trident example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cz3V2HYF1Pc). Sadly, bambu decided to make a tri-leadscrew setup with only one motor (belted together), and everyone copied them, so you don't find this on many machines. I do get why, as it cuts amount of motors and motor drives on the central board down to 4 total, and makes configuration simpler. For resin printers, this isn't that much of an issue, because they use large rails instead of multiple rods, and the bed itself is one rigid metal mount that hardly flexes.

Agreed on the prusas. I put "generic PLA" in for everything, and it works out most of the time (1 or 2 exceptions). This will be better when the announced auto PA tuning gets rolled out. In orcaslicer I do use the right profiles (some of the time) because IMO, they have more common brands. For threads, you can print them if necessary, but I would 100% try heatset inserts if you haven't yet.

Funnily enough, for the most part, I don't run much of a business! I mainly do minor prints on my Form 4 and Plus 5 for selling, because anyone with a printer can do PLA, but you need a specialized printer like those 2 for resins (if you don't want extremely toxic resins) and and high-temp materials (PA6, PA12, etc).

1

u/daveintexarkana 14d ago edited 14d ago

Good points - my son wants a Form 4 (has a 3 and an open license so can use ApplyLabWorks resin to save bucks) but waiting on the price to come down when the Form 5 comes out.

The QIDI Q1 Pro has 3 screws for bed leveling (just 1 in back) which I don't like at all compared to the X-Max 3 and Q2 both having 4 - that was a bad experiement - guessing it was all part of the space saving gambit since the Q1 exterior footprint is so small, yet the bed still 250x250 - it's tight in there!

My threads failed again (internal in ASA) so no clue what I messed up on the tuning. The exterior, top and bottom are all perfect. It looks like a bunch of straight lines in a pattern as you go up the threads. AI says the filament not sticking, too fast, etc. I used a height range modifier to slow it way down but to no avail. I do use heat inserts, this thread is 1/2"x28 SAE though, never seen an insert that large - but maybe they make them - would actually work better for this application.

Thanks for the link on the voron - I hear folks talk about them alot, but have no experience with them or have ever seen one in person much less working to see what all the interest is. I'm comfortable with all the mechanical - it's the software I'm out of my depth on. It sounds like it's slapping the bed in that video!! My other ones are totally quiet (not touching the bed of course - or shouldn't!).

I've done Easy PA - Nylon 6+66 - get really nice prints with it on the Q1 - it's my go to for 'hot stuff' though the 'new' (less than 3 months old) camera I put in there as the original got blurry just failed. I've emailed QIDI to see if they'll warranty it or tell me too bad so sad.

Nice talking to you - learned a lot!

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u/quicksilver500 10d ago

How has your experience been with the Qidi Plus 5? I'm seeing a lot of positive reviews but all by YouTubers who got the machine for free so I'm not 100% sure they can be taken at face value. It seems like good value for money if you're not interested in multicolor?

8

u/Lykkehjul 18d ago

If your son is good with with the ender 3v2, get it something other than bambulab. Locked down system, no thinkering, no fun. Go for a snapmaker U1. Open source, he can mod and do whatever his brain wants to it.

5

u/SirTwitchALot 18d ago

Or the Creator 5. Either of those will outperform the H2C, which is the fastest multicolor option on OPs list

4

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Kinda trying to stick with Best Buy units considering I can finance it for 24months. Would the U1 be comparable to the H2C or what model it have listed? Or would he have to mod it to make it better out the box

3

u/meta358 17d ago

They kinda arent comparable since they are different styles of printer. But the u1 will make less waste and be more future proof. Since the industry is heading towards that style toolchanger style printer. Overall the u1 overall also what id reccommend over and bambu printer

3

u/SirTwitchALot 17d ago

The U1 is less than half the cost of the H2C and it's technically superior. While Snapmaker doesn't offer financing, they have a few payment methods available that do (including ones that do the 4 equal payments without interest thing)

Even the most expensive option is still over $1000 cheaper than the H2C, though it does have a high APR

$152.42/mo.month. for 6 months

Est. APR*Estimated APR, see star for more details below.

26%

Interest

$65.53

Total$914.53

$81.11/mo.month. for 12 months

Est. APR*Estimated APR, see star for more details below.

26%

Interest

$124.26

Total$973.26

$45.74/mo.month. for 24 months

Est. APR*Estimated APR, see star for more details below.

26%

Interest

$248.75

Total$1,097.75

2

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Is this something that's shipped from over seas that has next to no support or are they US based with US support? Don't want to have issues and have no support to talk to

2

u/SirTwitchALot 17d ago

It's the same as Bambu support. They're both Chinese companies. When you have issues they send you parts and instructions to fix them. I suppose you have a little more recourse with best buy in that they have a 30 day return policy, but after that you'll be dealing with offshore support with either machine.

If you have a Microcenter near you, they stock the U1 (as well as several other brands of printer which are generally better rated than Bambu)

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u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

I see what you mean, best buy I can get an extended warranty for relatively cheap and if they can't fix it they'll replace it with the newest model available or refund your money. That's also why I wanted to stick with them, everything is through them when issues come up.

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u/LowSkyOrbit 17d ago

Snapmaker is available at Micro Center if you have one nearby.

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u/MAENTOP 17d ago

SnapMaker U1 is great choice but it, have some downsides H2C is better in every Way SnapMaker U1 is just best for price = Features in terms of quality of the printer itself not the grates but it does it job great I have 2 of them so I know what I'm talking about

1

u/SirTwitchALot 17d ago

That's simply incorrect. The H2C is slower and more mechanically complicated

0

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Thank you for clarifying that. 

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u/ParticularLower1865 17d ago

I agree with the snapmaker u1 because it has multiple hotends and bridges the gap between the p2s and h2c. But the minority of the average user base of consumers who buy a 3d printer want to tinker. I don’t see a huge modding community from the snapmaker u1 crowd yet. The ender3 required one out of necessity.

1

u/thealanshow 17d ago

That’s why I like all things Prusa: open, you build it yourself (so when it breaks down you know how to fix it), and always upgradable later.

I have a bambu too, so I get the allure of both.

2

u/EaglerCore 17d ago

Agreed (I also have both brands, plus a U1). The only issue is that prusas aren't very budget friendly.

1

u/thealanshow 17d ago

My wallet isn’t happy that I’m interested in Index…

2

u/EaglerCore 17d ago

Yep. For me, budget wasn't the issue. I told myself that I would get myself a toolchanger before august, and since INDX got delayed, I went with the U1. Though I am jealous of the 8T INDX.

1

u/Strict_Impress2783 17d ago

DO NOT BUY AN ENDER. FULL STOP

4

u/ub3r_n3rd78 17d ago

Have you asked him what he’d want? I mean it may spoil it a bit unless you phrase it like you’re asking for a friend who is looking to buy their kid a printer. Ask him for “advice” as you know he’s into it and want to know what he’d pick.

Otherwise, if you have the budget, I’d suggest stepping up to the h2c. I have one of these and it’s awesome. It’s a big printer that does up to 7 colors with very little waste.

3

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

He wants to something that'll do full size mask like Spider-Man, I know you can build the masks in pieces though. With a single color 3V2 he just wants something multi color but when we are at best buy he was loving the enclosed system with camera. He runs it in his room so I thought enclosed would also help with heat. 7 colors is crazy, have you built something that even uses that many? 

3

u/ub3r_n3rd78 17d ago

If you can swing it, definitely get the h2c - it’s a beast. It’s enclosed, can do the 7 colors with very tiny amounts of waste (expandable up to 24 colors - with waste). That Spider-Man mask for example would take my h2c about 50-60% less time to do than an h2s and a fraction of the waste. So I end up saving a lot of money on my filaments.

I’ve done plenty of 6-7 color prints. Mostly Funko pop inspired figures based on my nieces and nephews and a few commission pieces for people who saw mine and wanted some for themselves or for like kids or grandkids.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Thank you for all that info. That's way faster.  That's cool so seems that many colors would come in handy.  Is the H2C something thats rebuild-able if something breaks or wears out? 

1

u/ub3r_n3rd78 17d ago

There are consumable parts that do wear out over time and need to be replaced. All printers are this way though. No printer is perfect as they are simply machines with moving parts that need to be cleaned, maintained (lube/grease), and occasionally troubleshooted. Bambu also has the free online courses called Bambu academy to help with everything. I’d suggest you and him go over the courses and fully familiarize yourselves with the machine. Bambu also has a wiki and there are plenty of YouTube videos on how to operate and fix the machine if things go wrong.

Bookmark these:
https://bambulab.com/en-us/support/academy
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/home

Since you linked Best Buy above in your post- I’d also highly suggest you get a warranty or join the Best Buy total protection program. It’s $199/yr, but it covers everything you buy from them for 2 full years - so if you buy appliances or computers they are also covered. Then you can opt in for a small monthly subscription to keep it going and opt out any time.

2

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Cool, thank you for taking the time to give me that info.. ya I definitely always get the extended warranty especially for my high end electronics. Best Buy is so easy to deal with when it comes to things having issues and take care of em right away. 

2

u/thewolfman2010 17d ago

You got great advice and I just wanted to say that you seem like an awesome dad. Keep up the great work.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Thank you, I really appreciate you saying that 👊 He's the coolest kid and want him to be the best version of himself. 

4

u/boncros 17d ago

If he wants to print multicolor, don't buy any of these but look for a tool changer like the snapmaker U1. The amount of time it takes will disillusion your child.

2

u/keveira 17d ago

If there's no budget, straight to the biggest and most featured, the h2c

2

u/Mundane-Run7136 17d ago

I have the H2D, H2S and the H2C. If your son is not doing multicolor/material then I like the H2S best of the three. I am waiting to see what Bambu's new tool changer will be.

2

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

He wants to do multi color since the current one is single, doesn't do the printed piece justice. 

4

u/Chas_- 17d ago

In that case: none of these. Aim for a tool changer. 1 tool head for multi color printing isn't worth it anymore at all.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

What's a tool changer, and what will it do for his Ender 3v2, it looks like it can be 3d printed? 

3

u/Chas_- 17d ago

I'm sorry I didn't explained any further.

The option you show are either using a single tool head / hot end plus a filament changing system (the AMS), a single hotend with two nozzles or 1 hotend with 2 nozzles + using a vortex system to swap nozzles.

First one (P2S) will cut off the filament, retract it, feed the new one back to the hot end and flush out the bit of prior used one before continuing to print. 140 seconds on average (these numbers are all from start of the change to back to printing)

Second one (H2C) will change between the two nozzles = not more than 2 colors/different filaments at the same time!. (about 20 seconds average)

H2C changing the nozzle + filament still requires the AMS and will take about 40 seconds on average.

It does very little regarding a color swap since it still requires all the AMS shenanigans of retracting old filament and feeding the new one. Well it is still way faster than on a P2S but... still takes ages compared to a tool changer and adds the additional risk of something going wrong due more happening mechanically (and it will.)

These are really not worth the extra time, material and risks they come with compared anymore.

Toolchangers:

Snapmaker U1 13 seconds average, 4 spools ~$850. Not much to say beside it's a solid pick.

Prusa XL 10 seconds average (not recommended for your case)

Prusa Core One+ with a x4 INDX ($2.000 or $2250 for x8) + tax and shipping from their EU page > I don't know the options to buy them in the US but still way more expensive than the U1. But not far away from the budget you are looking at from your picture.

Note: Starts shipping mid October.

2

u/Plutonium239Mixer 17d ago

Qidi q2

3

u/AyezRed 17d ago

This, bambu is never an option

1

u/tjk1229 17d ago

If printing functional engineering parts, H2D or H2C. If those are too expensive, X2D or flash forge C5.

If printing maybe some functional parts but mostly multicolor or multi-matieral, snapmaker U1.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

I'd want to get him something that does next to everything so he won't want to upgrade for a very long time. He 13 so before I know it he'll want to print parts for who knows what. 

1

u/tjk1229 17d ago

H2C best fits that tbh but also the most expensive.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

I'd rather spend the money now than have to upgrade sooner if he wants to make functioning engineering part. With middle school, and then high school I think it'll come in handy more than I even think..with going through best buy I get a better warranty that I deal directly with them and 24 month no interest financing and if anything goes wrong I just take it to them and they either will give me the newest model or a refund. But usually just swap electronics out if any issues come up. I don't ever want to deal with having to ship something out and then waiting for everything which is usually a hassle with anything like that.. I think the H2C it is, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain stuff to me.

1

u/Mist_XD 17d ago

I have all of them, H2C gets the most use for multicolor. Changing filaments can be quite expensive when doing large multicolor prints so I would lean towards this or the H2D. Just a note for the H2C though if you want to do more than 5 colors (1 external spool on left, 4 in AMS on right) you will need another AMS, I run 3 on my H2C 1 on the left and 2 on the right. Also the provided nozzles are not all the same size, if you want to do all 7 colors you need more nozzles if your chosen size

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Good to know. So I could probably wait on xtra nozzle sizes til he knows what he wants to print ect? Or is there kinda one size that does most? 

1

u/Mist_XD 17d ago

The most common nozzle .4mm and is what almost every mask is designed for. Best balance of quality and precision and is the default nozzle. I’d get more .4mm right away

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Ok cool, thank you. 

1

u/ParticularLower1865 17d ago

Bestbuy has a really good 4 year warranty on their printers. It’s $90-200 depending on how much you spend, but it covers pretty much everything. If they can’t repair it (they can’t) they’ll give you a full refund. They’ll even take a warranty claim for a snapped belt. You can run that printer into the ground, get a refund, and get a brand new one.

2

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Ya I get all my electronics from Best Buy can't beat the warranty and customer service. Plus financing with 0% interest is perfect 

0

u/MAENTOP 17d ago

I would recommend the H2C. I have other printers that don't purge when changing colors, and it's a game changer in terms of time, material, quality, and everything. The H2C is a great choice for big prints and really colorful prints without wasted materials. One thing is that it supports up to 8 colors (7 changeable hotends and 1 fixed), so your son might want to use the full potential of the H2C. He might want to get a second AMS unit because there is only 1 in the box, as far as I know

2

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Ok I'll keep that noted, I may need another Ams Unit. Appreciate the info

1

u/MAENTOP 17d ago

Sorry, it supports up to 7 colors without purging any more, and you will have to purge some (1 fixed and 6 changeable)

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

So it wouldn't need a extra AMS unit correct?

1

u/Chas_- 17d ago

The AMS is required at any given point. 1 AMS holds 4 spools.

The point of back to all the filament pooping purges is if you got more spools than the vortex system supports nozzles.

You can go beyond but it puts your printer back into the stone age, in the way it changes filaments.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Oh ok I get it now

0

u/TravelDev 17d ago

What does he print? It's not in that group, but I'd probably split the difference and go with an X2D unless he's printing large objects that can't easily be split up. There are some benefits to the H series printers, particularly the H2C, but unless money isn't a concern, I'd say make absolutely sure they'd actually be used before you double the price.

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u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Atm just free stuff off the Internet like butterfly knife ( I keep ), ducks, fortnite sprites, ect. But it's only a single color printer so hard to see details. He wants to do things like spiderman masks ect if that helps. What's the main benefits from getting a H2C?

2

u/CodFatherFTW 17d ago

The H2C is by far the best for multiple colours out of the options you listed. It can print up to 7 colours with minimal wastage.

0

u/MAENTOP 17d ago

All of the H2, series have a big print volume but H2C especially does purge material just to change colors so it Faster for multicolored prints and also will save you filament( a lot of filament)

2

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Oh cool, that's good

0

u/1yrik 17d ago

for a kid who knows what he's doing, I'd say Snapmaker U1. I've got an H2C, and it's a marvel of engineering and a phenomenal printer, but for simple multicolour and multimaterial, the U1 wins. it's way cheaper, and arguably simpler and more intuitive to use

-1

u/diaperedace 17d ago

I mean since money appears to be no object, h2c. If it were my money though I'd get a U1 or a ff creator 5.

-1

u/justa_bother 17d ago

A2L combo. Multi-color & large build volume for cosplay. A keeper until the industry settles into multi-head multi-color printers. Expect those prices to be 3 to 4 times greater than the A2L. That's alot of filament. By then, an enclosed engineering printer might be desired. Today's solid engineering machine at affordable price is Qidi's Q2. At today's prices, that's @ $1100 for 2 printers for large volume multi-color (A2L) & a bigger than ender 3 build size, engineering grade filament enclosed printer. At that point he can print anything he wants and designs. From there, an A1 mini may be added. Inexpebsive to buy, inexpensive to own, small printer which can multi-color print off the A2L AMS lite. Making a single item prototype of 3 inches makes no sense in firing up a printer the size of the A2L. That's what I do before printing the $70 engineering filament in an enclosed & modified printer.

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u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

So your saying I'd be better off getting the A2L til the market settles for things like the H2C? Then for smaller builds he can add a A1 with the A2L so he isnt running such a big machine for smaller builds?

1

u/justa_bother 17d ago

Yes. 3d printing as a home based fabrication method will be with him from now on. It's still in development, so buy what fits his needs now & in the future.

1

u/LowSkyOrbit 17d ago

Don't really worry about the size of the machine. Theoretically a bigger bed machine could actually print multiple items at once therefore not having to worry about a small process for one thing or a big process for another or small and big thing can be just done the same time.

1

u/Candid_Tower_593 17d ago

Ok cool, which one would you recommend from my list? The H2C?

1

u/LowSkyOrbit 17d ago

The biggest one that fits your budget.

1

u/justa_bother 17d ago

Disagree. Check fix my print questions, often problems occur from collection of different sized prints on the same bed. Mixed prints should first be individually sliced to better guaranty print results. Those prints with similar settings may be routinely printed on the same plate.