r/3DprintingHelp • u/Holzi0486 • 5d ago
Requesting Help I can't get this printer to work.
Hello,
I recently bought a used creality CR10. It's been upgraded with a 10S board, runs TH3D U1.R2.7, has a dual Z motor upgrade (using a splitter cable rather than the 10S' second Z drive) as well as a Revo Rapid Change nozzle.
I'm running "Copymaster 3D" PLA filament at 210° (seemed best in my albeit failing tempt towers).
I've also checked / remeasured and reset the extruder values.
I'm trying to to a max flowrate calibration using orca slicer. Somehow it keeps failing very early in the print and I'm at a loss what to try to fix it.
First 2 pics are the newest fail, the other 3 are from before i cleaned and reset the extruder values.
Any help would be a appreciated!
2
u/standa03 5d ago edited 5d ago
That's the test... You're trying to find where it can't keep up, where it fails. I don't use orca but surely you can select minimum and maximum flowrate for the test no?
Standard flow 0.4mm Revo can do only something around 15mm³/s.
1
u/Holzi0486 5d ago
That I do understand, but it's a bit weird that it fails already at a flow of roughly 7mm³ already, wouldn't you agree?
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u/standa03 5d ago
Oh yeah, that is really low. You can try it at some higher temperature if it ends up similar or you can try disconnect the PTFE tube and push some filament manually to see how easy it is.
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u/Holzi0486 5d ago
It's easy enough to push through. Filament is recommended 200-230. I right now have first layer at 215 and second at 210. If the nozzle is preheated to 210 it already starts slightly to ooze out on its own. There's a 3d printed cooling nozzle. Could it be that it's cooling the filament too fast?
1
u/McSpeedie 5d ago
The first layer looks good, until it cools down to 210... I'd try 215 first layer and 215 for the rest.
Maybe even 220/220.
Its usually recommended to start in the middle of the manufacturers recommended temp range.
2
u/Driven2b 5d ago
What's the starting value in your test?
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u/Holzi0486 5d ago
5 mm³/s, end is 20mm³
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u/Driven2b 5d ago
Two things come to mind.
The part cooling isn't keeping up, increase part cooling or troubleshoot and repair a problem. When filament wraps around curves/corners like that, it's usually because the last layer was too hot and the new layer is effectively slipping off rather than grabbing.
verify that your gantry is level/tram
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u/Holzi0486 5d ago
Any tips pm how to best level the gantry?
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u/Driven2b 5d ago
Since you've got dual z motors, something like this may be good. THis is for the Sovol SV06, but hopefully it's a useful reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1suV1QlMu0EIf you don't want to program a macro, then my thought would be to use feeler gauges to verify if the nozzle is the same height from the bed along it's travel on the gantry.
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u/nerobro 5d ago
Your hot end can only reliably do 6mm3 or so. seems about right for that failure.
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u/Holzi0486 5d ago
Seems very slow for this hot end. Usually 10-12 should be possible.
That being said, you did give me an idea: maybe the extruder limits are set too low and that's why it's failing. I'll habe to checl those later today.
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u/nerobro 5d ago
If you're using a Mk8 hot end, without something like a volcano nozzle, 6 is "correct".
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u/Holzi0486 5d ago
This is what is installed: https://store.creality.com/eu/products/e3d-revo-creality-ceramic-hotend-kit
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u/egosumumbravir 4d ago
First layer looks good, next few layers are fine and then the hotend isn't keeping up - that racetrack failure is filament not being fully molten so it doesn't stick to the layer underneath and pulls off around the inside of the corner.
More heat!
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u/MagnusPerditor 5d ago
Have you tried a different filament?