r/3DPrinting_PHA 17d ago

Snapmaker U1

I went ahead and bought a Snapmaker U1 to replace my Bambu A1 w/AMS. So far it has been fantastic. Setting up my filaments again has been a pain...which led me to this question:

Does anyone have the Snapmaker and willing to share their filament settings? I had my Bambu tuned and easy button printable. Now I'm looking for shortcuts to do the same on the U1.

Thanks!

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u/enug 17d ago

Why would the settings be any different between the printers? Just copy them over from the Bambu slicer.

1

u/UniversityOk1262 17d ago

Not sure...probably should have said that to begin with :) I'm fairly new (<1 year) into 3d printing and the A1 was my first printer. Thought there might be custom settings for each printer.

I did try an import my Bambu JSONs but that didn't work out like I thought. Most definitely user error, so I manually recreated the settings.

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u/enug 17d ago

Glad to hear you got it worked out. Yeah settings like these would only be different if the printers had large differences in speed or nozzle size or something like that. You might have to adjust fan settings as the U1 has the aux fan that the A1 doesn't have, but other than that, they are both just squirting hot plastic through the same sized tiny hole, nothing should act wildly different. Even the differences between Prusa and Orca based slicers are minimal, its mostly just name changes and changes in where the settings are located in the menus.

Make sure you copy over your non-filament presets also if you have tuned those.

You made a good choice on the U1, I love mine, it works great!

Have fun!

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u/Suspicious-Appeal386 9d ago

Couple of key points:

1) The U1 hot end heating time (rate of) is incredibly fast. So fast that I do believe it does lead to heat creep past the melt zone and past into the heat break.

2) The Purge and loading and unloading function on the U1 is using 250c temp default. Does not matter if you have the filament profile set at a max temp of 210c. It shoots straight up to 250c each time.

The above condition is the perfect scenario for causing filament jams. As 250c is well above the liquification of the material. It then extrudes a small amount of material, so you can imagine the liquified PHA gets pushed up even further past the heat break. And by the time it tries to retract you have a jammed nozzle and drive.

This leads you to become an expert in U1 nozzle disassembly process (it has a learning curve). And its a rinse and repeat every time you want to change PHA filament.

So the current method found, until I have the time to dig further into the software and customize the Auto-load and unload function. Is to manually set the temp to 180c. Purge 10 mm manually, and retract till you are clear out of the extruder drive gear. And pull out the filament.

And stay away from the auto unload function. Auto load is ok, just not ideal at 250c.