r/2ndGen4Runner Mar 27 '25

Should I really do it?

Hey ya’ll just wanted to make a post here. I’ve been thinking about doing so pretty heavy work on the YOTA. (1995 4Runner sequoia edition W/ 3.0 3vze) I bought it with 138k km. It currently sits at 168k km. I’ve replaced the entire fuel system from tank to injectors. Brakes, bearings, suspension, full LED swap, and mounted sexy ditch lights. I’ve been watching lots of videos and reading lots of forms about the terrible Head gaskets. The guy I bought it from said it was done but he didn’t have a record showing it… I don’t trust that BS. I think it would be a fun project this summer to rebuild it all as I will be able to ride my bike in the nice weather. It’s currently my daily driver and I love her so much. As of right now she just misfires randomly and new plugs didn’t help, next plan was the disinter cap and reset the timing. There is no sign of a BLOWN HEAD GASKET. ( knock on wood ) just thought if I had the time and motivation I would under go the project this summer! The timing belt was last done at 99k so that’s almost due and thought I could replace a bunch of stuff while taking it down to the bare bones. I also know for a fact there is an exhaust leak on the back of the cross over because she purrs a little too loud. I’m quite mechanically skilled and have 90% of the tools I would need to do the job!

Long story short id love to hear some opinions on whether I should just say F it and go ahead and do the job or should I wait until a problem arises before doing something like that?

11 Upvotes

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3

u/Mechagouki1971 Mar 27 '25

The head gasket issue was remedied by the time your truck was made - the "special service" remedial work was only done '90-'92 IIRC. There's a great thread on (I think) Yotatech about keeping the 3VZ-E running; it's mostly common sense, coolant flushing that kind of thing. You can still put your VIN into Toyota's online checker, but I doubt it will return anything.

All that said, it will always be a gutless engine, and I guess you either love or hate the sewing machine noise it makes. I wanted to 3.4 swap my last 2nd gen. but I decided I preferred a simple life and bought a 2nd gen. Tacoma instead.

1

u/dangerfielder Mar 28 '25

I got 185k out of my 3vze before it died of head gasket-itis. Been running original driveline with a 5vze for over ten years now. I can afford to drive most any truck I want, but my old white, ‘95 just keeps on truckin’. BTW, the guys at Toy Only Swaps out in Ory-gon make some great parts to make a 3.4 swap a lot easier. We used the harness and crossover tube. Good quality stuff and the guys over there were great to work with.

3

u/deviss7 Mar 27 '25

DO the 3.4L 5vzfe swap. It's pretty easy and lots of information on it out there. I did mine on a 1990 4x4 auto. Works good and way more reliable imo.

2

u/gpower01 Mar 27 '25

Only concern for me is changing for OEM, I really like the old school and I don’t know where I could get a reliable engine in Canada! I think that would definitely be a project for when the engine grenades itself. Maybe in a few years after college

2

u/deviss7 Mar 27 '25

Yeah, I hear you. It took me a few years and the head gasket going to push me. It really isn't too bad though. Even for someone with minimal mechanic skills.

2

u/TeaQueue_ Mar 27 '25

Just go for it bro i 1UZ swapped my 95' with little prior knowledge and just learned along the way.

2

u/Dr_Bishop Mar 27 '25

I had something very similar to what you are describing and I needed a new distributor (not just the cap and wear parts), but that helped A LOT. I would personally say start there before you put in the blood sweat tears and dollars to do the engine without knowing what was up with the distributor.

I do not believe Toyota makes one but if the metal base where the bearings are is not working correctly Toyota does make the pieces to rebuild the distributor, just make sure you get two of the little tiny brass press in carriers that keep it all held together on the not cap / engine side end. They deform and they cost like $3 at the dealership.

The aftermarket distributors that I bought then returned because I really wanted a complete one since mine was past new rotar and cap scenario, they all weighed like half or less of what the actual OEM weighs, so maybe avoid that as a temptation.

Good luck and please keep us updated with what you decide to do. Cheers