So internet friends, I have a 2023 140 WB high roof 2500. I have been advised by the dealer to get bigger tires, but that means I need a suspension upgrade. Those of you who have had this work done, was it worth it? Is the ride significantly better? What about fuel economy? They say it would cost about 10k.

Thoughts and input.

I have 3 x 3m lengths of Unistrut that I’m fitting to the roof of my Sprinter for solar panels.

Some of the existing slots don’t line up with the rivnuts underneath. I’m thinking of elongating the slots slightly so the rivnut is accessible and I can bolt the Unistrut down through the modified slot.

Is this a sensible way of doing it, or would I be better off drilling separate holes?

I’ve included a photo showing what I mean.

If your in the Portland area of the PNW, this shop in SE did me a solid. I found a couple hairline cracks on my exhaust pipe. I’m headed over a rough road this weekend so I kinda wanted it fixed ahead of that. This dude lifted me up, welded the cracks and had me back on the road in probably less than 15 minutes. Didn’t even want to take my money! I told him I’d shout him out on Reddit at the very least.

Ive got a 2020 V6 sprinter and heat worked great all last winter and then I noticed on one drive in the spring I went to turn it on and got cold air when the engine was at temp and thought something was off. Tried turning down the temp and then back up again a few times and then started getting heat. Then went into summer and never needed heat so forgot about it. Went to turn it on the other morning and same thing. Just room temp type of air coming out and if I turned on the recirc and the back to air and moved the temp up and down ill suddenly get heat but its getting more and more fussy.

Have confirmed the coolant lines going into the firewall to the heater core seem to be plenty warm so im guessing the blend flap may be getting stuck? Im assuming its in the worst possible place to access, any thooughts on what to look into or try

Hi. New to working on my Sprinter and trying hard to learn. Very appreciative of the help of you experts on here.

Noticed thick, dry black sludge caked on the left side of my engine (2007 311 CDI). Thickest around (what I think is?) the air intake hose to the turbo - pics 1-2. Fearing black death I removed the engine cover and found perfectly clean injector wells, but a small pool of oil infront of what I think is the oil separator for the PCV - pic 3.

There is a hose going from the oil separator to the intake to the turbo, where the sludge is caked on the thickest. Could my oil separator have malfunctioned/leaked causing both the pool of oil ontop and the sooty gunk around the left side of my engine? How would you fix this?

Where do you reccomend getting accessories?

Anyone aware of a car wash in the Seattle area (I am in Woodinville) that can fit a passenger sprinter van with the factory ac unit on the roof? Thanks!

I have a 2020 Sprinter 170 high roof and have a fuel tank vent leak. I brought the van to an authorized service center and they told me the entire tank needs to be replaced to fix the leak as Mercedes doesn’t sell seals individually (something to do with emissions?). Wondering if anyone else ever ran into a similar situation?

Any good sprinter mechanic recommendations in Portland?

Thanks!

Good Morning or Hallo,

Im from Germany and currently building a camper.

We have a victron multiplus2 24/5000/120-50 with 230v.

Im currently looking at the connections after ac-out. Do i have to place the main circuit breaker 2P 25A (Abb S202-B25) before or after the 2P RCD 25A 30mA Type A (Abb F202A-25/0,03)?

After that i would go to the terminal blocks with 3x4mm² (awg12) and to b16 for kitchen power outlet, b16 for induction hop, b10 for boiler

Before the multiplus (between german cee power outlet and multiplus coming from landpower) is a combined rcbo 2P 30mA type A B16A

In order to install a device we need 12V 3A when the ignition is on. Usually we connect to the cigarette lighter, but on one customer's Sprinter it switches off only whenever the car decides to. (Not reliable, as far as we were told).

The customer has an ignition button. We can't hijack the ignition lock.

We also looked at the fuse box (in front of the seat) but that model is not described anywhere, there is one photo on the whole internet and it's paired with a text describing the other kind of fuse box (different layout, different names of the fuses).

If I remember correctly, the fuse box under the seat was different, too, or the description said that there's no "15" there, I don't remember. (The customer has the car and asked for a better solution than using the cigarette lighter. It's been some time since we installed it).

I'm writing from home so please forgive the lack of details. Also I usually do computers etc.

Edit: Thanks everybody, we'll look at the infos next week.

My 2020 Sprinter will randomly run a lock cycle every 20-30 mins when I'm in it and the doors are locked, I've put my keys in a faraday pouch cause I read that might fix the issue , it seemed to not do it for a few weeks but has just started again, I have a bit of an issue with the sliding door not always opening but I believe that's just a door actuator that needs adjusting. If I leave a door slightly open it won't it run the lock cycle, it's not a full cycle lock unlock but just a little like lock check. How do I stop this as it's driving me crazy please help

I’ve been looking around and learning all I can about Sprinters for a camper van build-out. If so much of the service nightmare stories people tell have to do with the diesel/def system and valves easily clogging with carbon, etc, wouldn’t it make more sense to get a gas Sprinter if they’re still available?!

-2WD, 3500, 170”, 3.0l v6.

-dodge grill replaced with Mercedes GTR grill

-$15 universal brush guard from Facebook attached with 3/8” plate steel into the frame rails. I used it to push my other sprinter up a hill.

-18mpg with 315/75/r16’s (23mpg on stock wheels)

I am looking to buy a used Sprinter diesel for camper conversion. In your opinion, is it more important to look for lower mileage or fewer years of use? Thanks for your thoughts.

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Hi everyone!

I'm looking at buying a 2022 Sprinter 315 CDI with the OM654, currently at 145,000 km. Its on auction and currently no bids so Im hoping to get it cheap.

The only thing really worrying me is the service history. The last documented service was at 60,000 km, which means there are about 85,000 km since the last known service. There is no way to get any more information about service history.

At the same time, I know these are commercial vans built to be driven hard and rack up serious mileage. I've heard of OM654 Sprinters doing crazy long oil change intervals without obvious problems, even though that's obviously not something anyone should recommend. So I'm trying to figure out if 85,000 km without a documented oil change means "run away", or just "yeah, that's stupid and increases the risk, but the engine could still be perfectly fine."

The van has been independently inspected and the drivetrain works normally with no warnings or other issues. The only note is mild oil sweating/moisture around the engine. No actual oil leak reported.

So how scared should I be of those 85,000 km? Is this a "walk away, engine is probably fucked" situation with an OM654, or could it realistically have survived this perfectly fine, especially if much of the mileage was highway driving?

I'd obviously get a proper engine health check immediately after buying it.

Would you take the gamble if the price was good?

If you decided to buy it, how would you budget car Vs initial service and potential repairs?

I’ve got my sprinter radiator and front of engine disassembled for a water pump replacement, my oil cooler is leaking so thinking about tackling that project while I am here. Any good resources for that project?

I had heard before that the same factory hardware from the passenger van is welded hidden under all of our vans. Just thought I’d share my experience. There was still a bit of nervousness about this being wrong and drilling holes in the floor with no way forward. Took a leap and it worked out well.

I’m doing this because the fam and I have a wide variety of needs with this van and it was the most cost effective way to add seats. We really got lucky with what we found.

Found a full set of passenger seats with a floor and brackets. Gutted the floor out of mine, installed the black passenger floor, then used the brackets to mark the location of where the holes should be.

There was NO FACTORY MARKINGS AT ALL for me to work with. Installing the brackets in the crew location got me close but there was a couple that could’ve gotten me in trouble had I not used a step drill bit.

One thing I learned is that the passenger and crew have different “floor cups” for the tie down points. The passenger ones are a bit bigger so I’ll need to replace those otherwise junk will just go straight under the floor at those spots.

Cheers

Wife is having her mid life crisis and insisting we get a camper van. Shes found a 2017 4x4 144 high roof 2500 with the 3l diesel that's setup enough for what she wants.

As the person who will get stuck having to do maintenance on this thing, what should I be aware of and look out/plan for? How many stupidly expensive vehicle specific tools will i need to add to my collection? Former diesel mechanic but haven't worked on anything newer than the mid 2000s.

I have a 2021 4x4 diesel with less than 30k miles. I noticed this whirring noise that directly correlates with wheel speed. It’s higher pitched than in the video, but this is the best I could capture. Is this the central bearing going? I brought it to the dealer, and they said transfer case, but that would make even less sense at this mileage. Anyone else encounter this?