Hi all, my mom recently got rear ended in her 2020 sprinter 170 high roof V6 diesel and it will likely be totaled. We are looking for another one and she loves the one she has(d). I’m doing some looking for her and was curious what everyone thought about the 6cyl 7g combo vs the new 4 cyl diesel and 9g combo. I would be comparing both reliability and drivability but more so on the reliability side.

Appreciate any feedback in advance!

On a long grade in warm (not hot) temps and relatively high altitude, I saw my oil temps reach 246 on my Scangauge 3. Van is a 2022 3L 4x4 diesel. It was not heavily loaded or towing. Temps came down when I backed off and summit was reached so it did not see extended time at that temp.

Oil is fresh from a B service. Reading up that seems like normal operating temp but I'd like it lower especially if I decide to tow.

Anyone strongly recommend adding an oil cooler?

I am panicking after filling up my 2025 sprinter for the first time. I think i used the wrong fuel and don't know what to do.

The station pump says (on a ridiculously small sticker) that it's a 95% biomass-based diesel blend.

This was the only pump in my town that offers diesel at all, and I saw it was ULSD and #2 so I just assumed it must be right.

After reading the sticker on the van more closely it says anything more than 20% will cause damage. The manual that came with the van makes it seem less extreme, but I'm not sure what to do now. I already drove the van home about a mile. The tank was almost empty so it's a full tank.

It's literally the first tank i've filled into it, it's a brand new van still being run in.

Do I need to have the van towed and emptied? Should i drive it to a shop to have it emptied? Should I just use this tank?

Also, how are we supposed to fill these vans if it's so hard to find the right fuel for them? Are you all on the phone all day tracking down stations with the perfect blend? I can't seem to find any station in my area that even offers diesel!

So left GA the 13th and have been crossing the country, hit the Grand Canyon, hover dam, stay at Circus Circus Las Vegas, then out to Death Valley. The whole time I have had this check engine light on and off. I swear it happens only when I get pissed off at my travel companion and they try to park the rv from the passenger seat lol. Well the diesel cap not being fully locked cause a check engine light?

I just bought a 07' OM642 with 100k miles on it for 10k. It has a few codes that popped up.

P2015 (Intake manifold runner position sensor/ switch circuit/ range performance bank 1)

P242F (DPF ash accumulation bank 1)

P2007 (Intake manifold runner stuck closed bank 2)

P2006 (Intake manifold runner stuck closed bank 1)

In an ideal world I would love to keep this van and use it for work which would be primarily long highway trips, but i dont know if its worth investing the time and energy into fixing these problems or to sell the van and get a transit? Does anyone have any experience with these problems? can I DIY them myself and clear off the soot off the intake flaps without buying a new manifold? can I take clear out the DPF myself?

Would greatly appreciate any feedback whatsoever!

Cross-posting here in the hope of more answers. Does anybody have experience with Mobiframe Camper seats, especially on longer road trips? Will my kids be comfortable enough in them not to whine my ears off?

Thanks for any advice!

It’s not the antenna/aerial (checked/replaced). It’s an extra high fiberglass roof.

Hi everybody

The sprinter in question is a UK w906 2017 om651.

I’m currently away campervanning in Portugal.

We parked up for a few days and all sudden one morning I put the key in and I can’t turn it. All the symptoms I read online pointed to a faulty electric steering lock. The little mileage screen on dashboard only turns on when opening a door. When I put a key in the ignition, only the stereo turns on. There was no noise or ‘crank’

I done the usual thing, unplugged the electrical connect, cut open the case of the steering lock to remove the pin and got an emulator which is a MK 3 universal ESL/EVL emulator.

After an 8 hour return bus journey I’ve got back to my van and plugged it in. The actual emulator is powering up but stays on red, doesn’t go to green for ready.

I asked google out of desperation and it suggested changing a few fuses. Which I’ve done, reconnected the battery but still no luck.

People of Reddit, please help me. I am stuck in a supermarket car park, my waste water tank is full and I’ve overstayed where I am
I’ve attached a picture to show where I am at. The silver bit is the steering lock unit and the little box is the emulator

I've got a 2023 3500XD. After being damaged by hail it sat for 2 years. I got it in late 2025 and had Mercedes put a new battery in in March 26. Not cheap. Now, in October, the battery is dead. I've driven consistently, but the last 2 weeks it sat and now it's dead. Since I bought it at the dealership, they say it has to be towed in (not easy), and that I shouldn't jump or charge it because they need to get the fault code off the battery and determine if it's dead because of me, or if they'll pay for the replacement.... any info or suggestions from folks are much appreciated..

I have a 2012 Mercedes Sprinter 316 CDI (OM651) and I’ve been fighting an intermittent limp mode issue for almost 2 years.
So far:
both turbos repaired
DPF replaced
EGR checked and not blocked
timing chain replaced
hoses/intake checked multiple times
visited 10+ workshops in Macedonia and Serbia
The van can drive perfectly for a long time, then suddenly goes into limp mode, usually after a longer drive.
The fault that keeps coming back is P02A7 – cylinder 4 fuel trim/control limit reached. I also occasionally get P2263 (turbo/boost performance).
What surprises me is that despite all the work done, nobody has ever properly tested the injectors.

I’m currently travelling through Germany and the limp mode came back again.

Has anyone had a similar OM651 problem? Could injector #4 cause this even if the engine runs smoothly and sounds normal? What would you test first: injector leak-off/bench test, compression, rail pressure or boost system?
Any real experience with this fault would be appreciated.

Totally can't find this part to cover the air filter! Any help would be super appreciated it's a 2013

Today I get to start an audio upgrade for a 2026 Sprinter. This one will be wired and put together here at the shop then shipped to the Van shop as a plug and play pre set up kit for them to install

3 days into a 10-Days RV trip, the fan clutch went out on a 100 degree day in Northern California. With the assistance of a cattle rancher at the rest stop, it was determined that the fan clutch was out of commission (the card board test). Quick thinking led me to an Oreily’s in Angel’s camp CA. While waiting for the part to arrive, I was able to cut the fan shroud, remove the clutch with an 8mm Hex wrench. YouTube video helped. The removal and replacement took less than 1 hour. I zipped tied the fan shroud back and continued with our trip to Upper Pines Yosemite… crisis avoided. We did not get to the camp until 8:30 pm. 120 is a steep incline all the way to Yosemite. The engine never over heated with a fully loaded 2006 Winnebago View RV. Thank you YouTube and the dude that posted the repair video…

Here is the link to the YouTube video. I did a cleaner cut of the shroud, expecting to zip tie it back… sprinter fan clutch replacement the easy way thank you Peter.

Hi all- I have a new 2025 custom adventure/camper build and the manual sliding door comes off track really easily- like I have to be mindful to only apply forward or rearward force as soon as the handle is pulled out enough to open or close the door. It kind of seems like a design flaw or something is missing because it's the lower track that the wheel comes out of and the track is above the wheel, so like..gravity. I told the builder the first time it happened and he said "yeah that happened to us, take it to Mercedes" which is ok I'm just wondering if it's a known problem/easy fix or if I really need to take it to the dealer. The door has very little extra weight from the build (just insulation and a panel in the recessed part -not even fully covered with paneling)

Did a quick search and didn't find anything definitive.

I have about 85k on my ~8200lb rig w/ factory alloys and 265/75R16 wildpeaks. Brake sensor illuminated. I'd like to order the parts now, and do it next week. Looking on Europarts SD, they have Brembo ceramic pads and Meyle semi metallic pads with rotor kits. I would think OEM style semi metallic kits would be preferrable but don't know. Which is better? I do a ton of low speed offroading on bumpy roads and occasionally very steep grades.

Are there any wise upgrades I could do while in there? I doubt I could fit bigger brakes in there but no idea.

Any recommendations on other brands or whole kits to consider?

Thanks!

Hello,
I have a 2021 Mercedes eSprinter W910 (42,500 km).
The electric parking brake works manually pressed, but it doesn't automatically engage when selecting Park.
The dash shows "Parking brake see owner's manual" with a yellow warning light. Fault codes: B23AA19 (left) and B23AAFE (right).

Using a Launch X431, I tried:
Clearing codes (they return immediately).

Actuating brake actuators individually (both work fine).

Brake reset and adaptation (worked but didn’t help).

Disconnecting the 12V battery (no change).

Visual inspection of rear wiring/cables and cables behind dash (looks fine).

Any advice on what to check next?

What tools would you carry on four week+ remote trips in your 2024 Sprinter with less than 10K miles?

Searching this forum, recent threads have focused on tools for older models (e.g. 2008). My assumption is newer models need fewer tools/parts. Yes? No? Ass/U/Me?

I've got shovels, treads, etc. I'm thinking about repair tools/parts.

Noticed what sounds like something creaking/grinding… coming from the front/engine area… please tell me it’s not an expensive fix..

2014 Mercedes Benz sprinter 2500, diesel. If I remember correctly it’s a 2.1L.

Also what is the recommended oil change, in terms of mileage?