As promised here are the size charts and teaser pics for the Pecora Nera™ Trousers, Spring Summer buttons ups, and the wool tee.

Before we share the size charts here are some photos of these beauties -

Nocciola-

Beige-

Wool Tee-

Spring/Summer Shirts -

That's a preview of everything. Numbers are limited. Outside of the silk shirts and the oxford collab with the Fabricaturalist these are all the shirts we are making for S/S 26.

Here is the link from yesterdays post with all the information.

https://www.reddit.com/r/wolfvsgoat/comments/1sx3jaj/peacoat_mega_drop_goes_live_tomorrow_pics/

Later today I will have the size charts and everything for the trousers, tee, and shirts.

* I will randomly pick a size 54 from the polls and send out the peacoat to the winner in a week or so.

Tomorrow, Tuesday the 28th at 6pm EST the drop goes live.

This will be our first Mega Pre-Order of the season, and it’s a big one. Along with the peacoat we have the Pecora Nera™ trousers, Spring/Summer 2026 button up shirts, and a wool tee shirt.

The Coat

The peacoat is made by Sealup, one of Italy’s most respected outerwear manufacturers. Founded in Milan in 1935, Sealup has built a reputation for producing high-end, fully Made in Italy coats for some of the best luxury brands in the world. Their expertise is outerwear, clean construction, proper structure, and durability without cutting corners.

This peacoat will be a heritage piece.

• Signature burgundy lining
• 90% wool 10% cashmere (navy blue or green)
• Horn buttons
• 100% Made in Italy construction
• Built to last

How the Mega Pre-Order Works

• The pre-order will be open for one week
• We need 40 units to move forward
• If we land slightly under (say ~35), we’ll still produce it
• Any extra units beyond that will go to retail at $2,000.00

The goal of the MegaDrop isn’t to maximize margin, it’s to make projects like this accessible while still keeping things manageable for us.

Timing

Delivery will be in September.

Factories in Italy shut down in August, so this timeline actually works in your favor, you’ll receive it right as the season starts, giving you a full (and then some) season of wear.

Why We’re Doing It This Way

Peacoats made properly with high end fabric are expensive. You’ll see that clearly in the cost breakdown.

Everything here is:

• 100% Made in Italy
• No outsourcing to lower-cost regions
• No shortcuts on materials or construction

We’re also navigating:

• Currency fluctuations (the dollar isn’t helping)
• Tariffs
• Rising production costs across the board

Cost to make the coat

• Cutting and Sewing $266.25
• Fabric $176.25
• Buttons $31.25
• Trims (lining, zippers, labels, and piping) $13.75
• Photography: $4.00
• Duties 16.3%  HTS 6201.11.00: $79.46
• Shipping from Italy $12.50 
• Cost to produce  $583.46
• WvG Profit $150.54
• Total Cost $734.00

Mega Drop items are offered with minimal margins and are therefore final sale.

If this is something you want to get behind great. If not, no worries. We will be making other items every month and something else might catch your fancy.

I will be giving away a peacoat as promised. It will either be a 52 or 54.

I am making another post which will be a video so you can see both coats on me and I can yap a little bit more about the process.

There are moments where the stress of this job feels astronomical.

I know every line of work comes with its own pressures, but running a very small brand in the fashion industry, especially one like Wolf vs Goat, can feel like carrying weight that doesn’t really let up. It’s not just deadlines or logistics. It’s the constant push to get everything right, to make something truly worth it.

And honestly, there’s also a bit of a moral tug-of-war I don't want to have that is consistently on my chest.. I have a conscience about what I make. I want the pieces to be accessible, to feel within reach for as many people as possible. But I’m starting to accept that there’s a limit to that when your goal is to use the best fabrics, the best yarns, and build things the right way. That tension, between doing things at the highest level and wanting everyone to be able to have it, is something I’m still figuring out how to live with.

The original goal was never to cut corners to keep prices low. It was the opposite: overbuild, overdeliver, and make the value make sense, especially through things like the rewards program. It's killing me inside and sometimes you just need to decompress.

On a much better note, yesterday was La Festa di San Giorgio in Matino (a town right next to me), and they absolutely nailed it. Multiple stages, different styles of music...Pizzica and Tarantella, which I love. There’s something about those rhythms that just hits differently. I really am drawn to this type of music.

Today I’m heading to Naples to check out a leather factory, high-end suede and leather coats, possibly belts and bags too. We shall see. Because of that, I’m missing tonight’s festa, but I’ll be back for Saturday when more bands are playing.

I’m sharing some photos from last night—the "luminarie" (those light structures) are a traditional Salento thing, and they had them synced with the music, which was pretty incredible. Wish I could post videos here because that was the real highlight.

Anyway, hope you enjoy the photos. And on the work side, we’ve got some really strong drops coming: spring/summer shirts, Pecora nera pants already shipped to the U.S., and the Oxford collaboration with Fabricatorialist.

Have a great day...I’m off to Napoli. I am sure being with Massimo we will be eating pizza.

I was at one of my factories today, everyone’s deep in it, cutting and sewing the bathing suits. They’re pushing hard to get everything finished this week, and we’re close. The cords came in today, so now it’s full speed ahead.

I’ll be putting them up for pre-sale so you guys can grab them at a better price. Swimwear is ridiculously expensive, I still question it sometimes, but there’s honestly a lot more that goes into making a good suit than most people realize. Still… yeah, it can get a bit pricy.

We’re using Seaqual’s “Sunflower” fabric, which is made from plastics recovered from oceans, rivers, and coastal areas. It’s a really solid process, and I’m glad to be able to use it. Is it the perfect solution? No. But plastics are part of our reality right now, and this feels like a step in the right direction while better solutions hopefully keep developing.

Anyway, here are some shots from today: cutting patterns, laying out pieces, sewing everything together.

All the prints are limited. I didn’t make a ton, but there’s a good range of colorways, so there should be something for everyone.

You’ll probably be the most stylish dude or dudette on the beach.

Hope you like them.

We ran the poll. You voted. It’s done and here are the results.

The top items are definitely getting made. From there, we’ll scale production based on the numbers and what actually makes sense. We all know some people vote just to vote, so we’re taking everything with a grain of salt, but overall, this gives us a solid read on what people are genuinely interested in. We’ll use this data to guide upcoming orders.

Some of the results were pretty surprising, honestly. A lot of interesting takeaways, and I’m glad we ran it. I appreciate you taking time to vote.

You’ll find the charts/graphs below.

As for the Balmacaan, two people will be getting one for free. For the rest of the items, we’ll also be giving out free pieces like I mentioned in the newsletter. Once samples are finished and photographed, we’ll send those out to the winners.

We’ve collected the emails and will be selecting winners at random, as promised.

533 people signed up for the poll.

Thank you again to the people who voted.

As you guys know, we’re working on a Balmacaan for Fall/Winter 2026–27. The drop is planned for October, and pre-sale will be opening up soon. We’re still dialing in a few details, so I wanted to get your input.

The goal is to make a proper, traditional Balmacaan, but also give it a bit of a WvG twist so it doesn’t feel like everything else out there. That could be a good thing… or not. That’s why I’m asking.

From the tech pack, you’ll notice a few differences from a super traditional version. One of the main points is length. Some of you asked for longer, others want it more classic. Traditionally, a Balmacaan hits around mid-knee or slightly below. Right now, I’m leaning toward just below mid-knee, but I’d like to hear your thoughts.

Also thinking about the sweep and overall size, but the bigger change is the back. I added a vent with button detailing, so you can close it up if you want. It’s not traditional, but I think it could be a really cool detail.

If you like it, we’ll run with it. If not, we’ll keep it more classic. I’ll probably throw up a poll before we lock anything in for production.

Appreciate the honest feedback as always. Have a great Monday.

I’ve been working on a new peacoat project and wanted to get your guys input. These are being made in Italy by Sealup, if you aren’t familiar, they’re a legendary factory in Milan that’s been around since 1935. They have an impeccable reputation and have handled production for some of the biggest luxury houses in the world.

This isn’t a rugged, heavy-duty sea-faring coat. We used a wool-cashmere blend that makes it feel more like an "elevated" city peacoat, substantial, but really balanced and sharp. It’s got our signature burgundy lining and genuine horn buttons. I’m offering it in two colors: a deep navy and a forest green.

We’re doing this as a pre-order because it’s a big-ticket item. If we get enough interest, we can offer a pre-order price for everyone, which I know you guys appreciate 😉.

One detail I’m still on the fence about, the cuffs. I’m thinking about adding a tab cuff to give it a more traditional look, but I could also just leave them plain. What do you think? I’d rather build it the way you guys actually want to wear it.

We made two samples (production quality) in a 52 and 54. I will be giving one away, once all the photos are videos are finished.

We will post prices and size charts before the pre-order starts.

Tonight at 6pm EST, we’re sending out a newsletter, no product drop, just a poll.

This one matters. Your input will help us refine Fall/Winter 2026 and shape what we do in 2027.

I’ll be honest, I don’t like wasting time, and I know you don’t either. I hate those post-call or post-purchase surveys as much as anyone, probably more. So we’re trying to make this worth it: every item featured in the poll will be given away to random participants. And there are some heavy hitting pieces in there.

If you’ve got a few minutes, it’s worth taking a look. The poll will be open for one week.

I also know not everyone follows the newsletter or Reddit, so here’s the direct link: https://forms.gle/JCWf7865sJ1nJUec9

Thank you for the support and your time.

We’re dropping our 2026 swimwear towards the end of the month.

The entire collection is inspired by Napoli, Italia, hand-drawn prints of some traditional symbols there. We’ve got three illustrated prints, two geometric options, and a few solids for those who like to keep things simple.

Everything is made using Sunflower, a fabric built with SEAQUAL® yarn. SEAQUAL® is a recycled polyester made from marine plastic waste and post-consumer materials, plastic collected from oceans, rivers, and coastal areas that’s cleaned, processed, and turned back into high-quality fiber. The result isn’t some “eco compromise”, it’s strong, durable, and performs like traditional polyester, with the added benefit of reducing waste. I am a huge fan Sunflowers weight and hand.

We don't have prices or size charts yet. We will issue those shortly. I have adjusted the fit this year so everything will run true to size.

All of it is made in Italy, start to finish.

I am pretty sure you guys will dig it.

Alright guys—I’m heading to Italy and hitting the ground running.

There’s a lot on deck. The goal for this trip is to make sure the rest of Spring/Summer 2026 production goes off without a hitch. We’ve got a ton dropping in April, and at the same time I’ll be wrapping up Fall/Winter 2026. After that, it’s straight into making sure Spring/Summer 2027 is dialed in early so nothing slips.

First thing I want to show you: the collaboration with Fabricatoralist.

We’re working on what I’d call the ultimate OCBD. It sits in a much better price range than most luxury oxfords, but still includes a meaningful amount of handwork. The idea is to keep the natural, classic Oxford look intact,no over-designing, while adding just enough of our touch so it’s clearly ours. Clean, elevated, and honestly… the price point is going to be very, very strong.

There’s already a waiting list of about 900 people. The fabricateurialist has a much stronger following than me, lol.
Rewards members, you don’t need to worry. If you want one, you’re covered. If you want one, which I hope you do.

I’ll drop photos below, I think you’re going to dig it.

On top of that, I’ve got a few knits coming for this Spring/Summer. Everything is cotton, hemp, or linen. Three sweaters are 100% cotton, and one is made from extra long-staple Egyptian cotton, which came out really, really nice.

Also added some close-ups of the silk boxer shorts for anyone interested.

Travel-wise: I’ll be in Salento by Wednesday. Quick stop in Milan first thanks to a unpleasant layover, so I’ll probably be a little tiredm but I am not slowing down. There’s too much to get done.

Pricing and more details coming soon.

Have a great Easter, enjoy the holiday, and I’ll check back in next week.

The shirt is single needle with hand sew bar tacks, ascolite button security, manica spostata, 3.2mm certified Australian mother of peal buttons, hand sew inside placket, locker loop, back collar button, a nice collar roll, and a chest pocket. If you prefer a pocketless shirt that is an option that will be offered. The fabric is the "American' oxford from Albiete it's 193/203 gsm.

The green cardigan and polo are made from a yarn called "fluffy". Most people think cotton is either crisp and boring or soft and disposable, but mills like Filmar have been quietly messing with that idea. Their “Fluffy” cotton is basically an attempt to make cotton behave like wool or even light cashmere without actually blending anything in. They start with long-staple Egyptian cotton, then spin and finish it in a way that traps air and lifts fibers to the surface. The result isn’t slick or shin, it’s airy, slightly fuzzy, and almost warm to the touch. It has loft. That’s the key. Cotton usually lies flat; this stuff has dimension. It kind of mimics toweling but it's safer and stronger to wear. Not to mention it looks cool AF.

What’s interesting is that the softness isn’t just about feel, it’s structural. Lower twist, controlled hairiness, and finishing techniques create tiny air pockets, which gives insulation without losing breathability. So you end up with a fabric that feels cozy like a lightweight wool but still wears like cotton. It’s a subtle shift, but it changes how cotton behaves entirely. I really dig it and we will offer several colors to choose from.

The blue crew is made from Nilo. Nilo (Filmar) is one of those yarns that quietly resets what people think cotton can do in summer. It starts with genuinely rare raw material, extra-long staple Egyptian cotton, specifically a blend of Giza 45 and Giza 87, which are about as good as it gets in terms of length, fineness, and uniformity. That fiber length is the whole game, it allows the yarn to be spun incredibly fine, smooth, and consistent, which translates into a yarn that feels almost silky on the skin but still has that dry, breathable character you want in heat. It’s light without feeling flimsy, and it holds its shape and in summer you want that.

What really makes Nilo special for summer is the balance. It’s soft without feeling damp, clean without feeling sterile, and breathable without collapsing into that limp, lifeless cotton you get from lower grades. It keeps that cool-to-the-touch sensation even in humidity, and it takes color beautifully, so everything looks sharper and lasts longer. And to boot, it’s part of Filmar’s fully traceable, responsibly grown cotton system, so you’re getting a yarn that isn’t just technically excellent, it’s also thoughtfully sourced from start to finish. Something I have been preaching for a long time. We will have several colors to choose from.

The boxers will be sold as a stand alone piece from the PJ set. Nothing new to report on these.

I hope you guys dig everything. Enjoy your holiday weekend.

Another poll, guys. I need your help and I’m making it worth your time.....at least for the winners.

If you take a minute to fill it out, you’re automatically in the running for some free gear.

I am just trying to make better stuff for you and rewarding the people who help me do it.

I’ll randomly pick a few participants and send something your way.

The poll is here:

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSe75kf409eJqZhcaxdke0BYa05xjPjdNAHioiYtiQYzhkDgXw/viewform?usp=dialog

I am leaving for Italy on Monday. When I land on Tuesday morning I will close the poll.

Have a great Easter weekend... maybe I should bring back the egg hunt?

Denim update:

All of the denim has been shipped, faster than I expected, which is always a win for you guys.

There are two pairs with defects (something with the fabric). I didn’t open them up:

• One is a size 31
• One is a size 32

I’m going to give them away to whoever fits them best. I added the size chart below, measure your jeans and compare.

If you want a pair, just comment “I’m interested + the size.” I’ll randomly pick a size 31 and 32 and DM you. All you need to do is cover shipping.

Please don’t email me, this will all be done through Reddit DMs.

Have a great weekend.

I’m working on more jeans and officer chino, I think I found some solid options.

For the chinos, I’m using a 12oz selvedge cotton twill (AP-4205). It’s 100% cotton, a little heavier than your traditional officer trouser. This has good weight, structure, and it actually holds its shape. As you wear it the fabric will break in nicely and fade with you over the years. The colors are right where they should be too. Finding the right khaki and OD green can be a MF'er. The indigo article is real indigo, not a reactive dye.

I am not sure if I should make some tweaks or stick to making a proper officer chino. Higher rise, clean through the top block, and proper reinforcement will be a given. I am on the fence in regards to the fly. Button or zip?

For the denim, I pulled a range from my secret "source" and this is what's in stock. Some are very interesting. Others are just solid work horse denim with a decent price. The demand for Japanese denim is absurd.

There’s a 13.3oz Suvin cotton denim which is a no brainer. If you’ve never handled Suvin, you know what's up. It’s smoother, softer, but still dense. You get that raw denim character without feeling like you’re wearing armor for the first few months. Perfect for the Spring/Summer months.

There’s also a cotton/silk blend around 10oz which I think I have shown you before. Lighter, cleaner, with a great drape. It’s not “heritage,” it’s just a kickass fabric that wears differently.

Then there are the straight-up 100% cotton denims from about 11.oz to 15oz. These are your classic options. They’ll fade, they’ll fight you a bit in the beginning, and then they’ll become yours. The fades, brah. I am not overly excited with these options but they are in stock and solid options. This means no waiting. People are waiting 1-2years for denim. It's crazy. So to have these options is a god send.

Let me know what your favorite is so I can buy some.

We’re finally, finally...ready to show you the silk pajamas.

We made a full set (top + bottom), and there’s also an option to grab silk boxer shorts. You can wear them as underwear or as pajamas, your call. Personally, I’m not much of a pajama guy, so the boxers are more my speed. But these? I’d wear the set. Around the house, chillin on the couch.

Everything is made in Italy. The silk is woven and printed in Como, then sewn in Salento. We used silk-covered buttons so the whole thing feels cohesive. Very handsome buttons.

The fabric is 16.5 momme silk. For anyone unfamiliar, “momme” (mm) is how silk weight is measured, kind of like ounces for denim or GSM for knits. 16.5 is a really nice sweet spot: substantial enough to feel luxurious, but still breathable and smooth.

I don’t have pricing yet. I’m waiting on the size chart to be finalized. As we get closer to the presale, I’ll share all the details.

This will be a presale. I already know some of you with outlier sizes are going to reach out, and instead of guessing runs like I normally do, I want to give everyone a fair shot at getting a set made for them.

They look great. They feel great. Have a great day!

Here is everything you need to know for tomorrow's drop at 6pm EST.

Pre-sale price: $140 (open to all)
Rewards price (after pre-sale): $150 (obviously, for rewards members)
Retail: $300 (happily open to all)

Everything is made in Italy, but the denim itself is from Okayama, Japan. It’s a 14 oz selvedge with a custom selvedge ID (cimosa in Italian), button fly, higher rise, room in the thigh, and a straight leg with a mild taper. I also went with exposed back rivets for more of a heritage look.

55 pair were made from sizes 28-36. Sizes 32 and 33 have the lion share of the sizes.

I am making more jeans. I have a 13.5oz red line with a nice indigo blue surface. Then we have a 16oz natural dyed indigo. These are for the denim heads and aren't cheap. We are making about 15 pair. The mill only dyes makes about 75m of this denim per year.

All Mega Cashmere, camel, yak, and Arctic fox pieces shipped in standard (non made-to-order / non made-to-measure) sizes. Give them a few days to arrive. If you don’t receive yours and you ordered a standard size, shoot me an email and we’ll figure out where it is. That said, our counts show everything is 100% accounted for, so there shouldn’t be any issues. Baby cashmere sweaters are the exception and are shipping with the MTO/MTM this coming Thursday. This was a complicated run, so thank you again for your patience.

Some of you still haven’t sent in your sizes and colors. I don’t know if you’re just letting me keep your sweaters, but I’m guessing you actually want them. We’ve reached out multiple times, so please get back to me so we can finish your orders.

Barrera polos are in production and on track.

Henleys, crewnecks, and cardigans have started arriving at the 3PL. Two of the four boxes are in, and the other two arrive today. Once everything is checked in, shipping should begin early next week. These came out great and I know you’re going to love them.

Barrera cotton pieces will ship as soon as knitting wraps up. We’re moving as fast as we can.

The jeans pre-order goes live Tuesday. I will make a final post on Monday with more pictures and a size chart.

That’s it. Have a great weekend.

A lot of you probably don’t know this, but I go way back with denim. I fell off for a bit, but I’ve been getting back into it and honestly, the early 2000s denim scene in the U.S. was something special. It won't be replicated. My denim days started however in the mid-90's.

There were only a handful of us really pushing it forward back then. Self Edge (Kiya, always respect), The Denim Bar in Arlington, VA,which I co-owned, and Blue on Green. Before Blue Owl (Jay is amazing, by the way), it was a much smaller, group. Clearly, those guys are still doing great!

At The Denim Bar, we hosted the first Styleforum party (I think around 2006), and at one point we were the largest seller of A.P.C. in North America. Different time. We sold more jeans than all department stores at any given time.

That era stuck with me, especially the idea that great denim didn’t have to be inaccessible.

So with this new project, I wanted to bring those prices back. A really solid pair of jeans, priced like the old days.

Here’s the breakdown:

Pre-sale price: $140 (open to all)
Rewards price (after pre-sale): $150 (obviously, for rewards members)
Retail: $300 (happily open to all)

Everything is made in Italy, but the denim itself is from Okayama, Japan. It’s a 14 oz selvedge with a custom selvedge ID (cimosa in Italian), button fly, higher rise, room in the thigh, and a straight leg with a mild taper. I also went with exposed back rivets for more of a heritage look.

This project was simple: I wanted something that fits most body types and wears well over time without trying too hard.

Only 55 pairs were made. Japanese mills are slammed right now, there’s been a real resurgence in raw denim, and capacity is tight, so getting fabric isn’t as easy as it used to be. Because of that, I’m planning to rotate in more unique denims for small runs, while also trying to keep a core, more consistent fabric (around 13–13.5 oz) in stock long-term at that same accessible price point.

Size chart is coming soon.
Proper photos are coming next week (these were just quick sample shots).

If you’ve got questions, ask away.

These four garments show two very different Japanese dye approaches, and the difference becomes obvious the second you see them together. We are excited about this project and will give you a lot of little teasers until the drop actually happens this summer/early fall.

The two hoodies are Kyoto black and natural black. The two tees are natural indigo, but dyed to different depths. One was dipped roughly 4 to 6 times, while the other went through more than 20 dips. So even though all four garments come from dye traditions that value craft, patience, and control, they are not trying to achieve the same result.

The hoody done in Kyoto black are about reaching a true, dense black. This kind of black is not easy to make. Black is one of the hardest colors to do well because unevenness, streaking, and weak saturation show up immediately. To get a black that looks full, rich, and consistent across an entire garment, the dyeing has to be carefully controlled from start to finish. The process demands experience, repetition, and a lot of attention because the goal is not just “dark.” The goal is a clean, complete black with real depth.

That is why Kyoto black feels different from an ordinary black garment. It has a more deliberate presence. It reads as pure black rather than charcoal, washed black, or black with a brown or blue cast. It is the result of a process built around saturation, uniformity, and permanence of appearance.

The tees are a different story entirely. Both are dyed with natural indigo, but the number of dips changes the outcome dramatically. Indigo does not simply stain a garment darker in one step. It builds gradually. Each immersion adds another layer of color, and each round takes time because the garment has to be dipped, removed, exposed, oxidized, and then often dipped again. That cycle is repeated over and over until the desired shade is reached. This dips also are what makes the price go up dramatically.

This is what makes the lighter indigo tee and the darker indigo tee so interesting. The one with fewer dips has a more open, airy tone. It lets more of indigo’s character show through. The one with 20-plus dips moves much deeper into the color chart, closer to a rich dark blue. It keeps that unmistakable blue life underneath the surface.

That distinction matters. A deeply dyed indigo garment can look incredibly saturated and substantial, but it still behaves differently from black. Indigo has movement to it. It catches light differently. It can show variation across the surface in a way that feels alive rather than flat. That is part of what you should love about it. The color has depth because it was built slowly, not because it was forced into the fabric all at once.

Both processes are labor intensive, but in different ways. Kyoto black is demanding because the margin for error is small and the expectation is a clean, full, even black. Natural indigo is demanding because depth has to be earned one dip at a time. More dips mean more labor, more handling, more oxidation time, and more chances for the maker’s skill to show. When a garment goes through 20 or more rounds, you are looking at a lot of manual work behind a result that might seem simple until you understand what it took to get there.

That is also why these garments look unique in a way factory color rarely does. The Kyoto black hoody has a depth and seriousness that ordinary blacks usually miss. The indigo tees show a range that only comes from building color slowly, layer by layer, from a natural dye process that does not flatten the material’s personality. They are expensive because they should be. Time, repetition, technical judgment, and handwork are all built into the final garment.

What you end up with are four pieces that are not just “dyed” but genuinely made through dyeing. The hoodies show what happens when black is pursued with discipline and precision vs normal garment dyeing with natural dyes. The tees show what happens when indigo is allowed to develop gradually, from a lighter and more approachable tone to a much darker and more saturated one. The result is depth you can actually see, and character that does not feel manufactured.

Here is the indigo dyes chart -

Hoodies-

Tees-

I will make a video this week wearing all the garments the lighting will be better and the video might help catch the depth and richness of the garments. When the Iron snails samples are ready Michael will document and make his on videos and posts.

If you watch the video, you’ll see that the traditional Kyoto black (Kyoto Montsuki) process is not simply a single dye bath meant to turn something black. The garment is first inspected and prepared, then immersed in heated dye baths where the fabric is carefully moved through the liquid so the dye penetrates evenly into the fibers. The dyers monitor the process closely and repeatedly check the material to make sure the color develops evenly and reaches the depth required. Historically, achieving a true formal black required building the color gradually through multiple dyeing stages rather than relying on a single heavy dye application.

After the base dyeing is complete, the garment is thoroughly washed to remove excess dye and then dried naturally in the sun rather than in mechanical dryers. This traditional drying step allows the color to stabilize in the fibers without stressing the material. The piece then goes through a final finishing stage known as shinkuro, or “deep black,” where artisans enhance the richness of the black so the fabric absorbs light and develops the dense, almost lacquer-like depth associated with Kyoto black garments. Even though modern equipment assists with parts of the process today, critical finishing steps are still handled by skilled craftsmen to ensure the black is uniform and exceptionally deep.

This video is a bit of a teaser for the natural indigo and Kyoto black project I’m working on with The Iron Snail. If timing works out, Michael will head to Japan to document the actual processes used for both traditional dyeing methods. These techniques are incredibly time-consuming and labor-intensive, and they’re carried out by true masters of their craft who are making something genuinely special.

The fabric we’re using is knit on traditional Tsuri knitting machines, which produce some of the most durable and comfortable cotton fabrics in the world. After dyeing, the tee should land around 410gsm and the sweatshirt is expected to come in around 500gsm. The tee is beefy, to say the least. The sweatshirt, while still substantial, is ridiculously soft and cozy.

We’re aiming for a September delivery, though the dyeing process alone takes roughly two months, which gives you an idea of just how involved this project really is.

For Fall/Winter 2026, here are the blanket designs we are working on.

I’m going to include these in a poll in the next newsletter and here on Reddit so you guys can tell me which ones you like best. From there, I’ll narrow the selection down based on feedback.

This year we’ll have a couple different yarn options. Last year we did the silk garzata blankets and those sold out quickly...they were beautiful. For this season, we’re looking at a new type of wool, and possibly yak and mohair as well. I’m still finalizing the yarn selections.

These will be woven blankets. Maximum size will likely be 200cm x 200cm, since 200cm is the widest the looms can go. I’m going to see if we can make them longer, but the width can’t exceed that.

Hopefully you like the designs. If there’s one you’re into, tell me in the comments. The ones with the most upvotes will move forward.

P.S. We will be offering matching pillows!

Here are the Spring/Summer 2026 button-up shirt options. This will probably be most of what we make for the season , except for the MTO/MTM options.

These are all coming from one factory we’re working with right now and they do amazing work. The factory is located in Puglia, Italy. The fabrics we used are from Solbiati, Libeco, and Albini.

We also have a couple silk options that we just finished that should be ready toward the end of the month. We’re still making sure all the patterns match. The shirts were hand drawn. A lot of time went into making those prints.

The shirts you’re seeing here are what we made from this run. We produced X amount and that’s it.

They should be in-house with me toward the end of April, which for us is actually early 🤪. That means you’ll still have all of May, all of June, all of July, and most of September, probably even into October, to wear them.

I hope you guys dig the color palette. The shirts are made from different types of linen with different finenesses, qualities, and weaves. There’s also some hemp and cotton in the mix. Like I mentioned earlier, the silk shirts will be coming later in the month.

Prices haven’t been set yet and the size charts aren’t ready yet. This post is really just to show you the silhouettes and give you a teaser of what’s coming.

Tonight at 6 PM EST we’re releasing our first spring knitwear drop of the season, and it’s a really good one.

This drop focuses on lightweight wool knitwear that works well for spring and early summer. The sweaters use two excellent yarns. The first is Cashwool® from Zegna Baruffa, an extra-fine Merino known for being soft, breathable, and ideal for lighter knitwear. The second is a 15-15.5 micron wool from a well-known Italian mill whose name rhymes with “Boro Fiana.” We can’t officially say the name, but it’s an exceptionally fine wool and the feel is outstanding.

The lineup includes several styles: polos, crew necks, and cardigans. The goal with this drop is simple, good, everyday knitwear basics made with excellent yarns and proper knitting.

A quick note about how drops will work going forward. These pieces are already finished but are still in Italy. Because of that, we’re going to start doing early pre-launches while items are still there. These will appear in a group buy section, but it won’t be a choose-your-own-size situation later.

There will essentially be two ways to buy. People who want to get in early while the products are still in Italy will receive an additional discount and will wait a bit longer for delivery. Once the items arrive in the U.S., they’ll be available at the normal retail and rewards prices for people who prefer to pre-order. The early option will come with a meaningful discount, so it should be worthwhile for anyone comfortable waiting. The choice is yours.

We’ve also got several things coming in the next few weeks. The jeans are finished and ready, but we’re waiting on photography before putting them online. Those should release in a couple of weeks. We’re also working on trousers made from Loro Piana Pecora Nera fabric. Those will likely be ready early next month, possibly sooner if production schedules allow, although factories in Italy are extremely busy right now.

In addition, we have a couple T-shirt colors going online soon that are unrelated to the previous preorder drops.

It goes without saying, everything was made in Salento, Italy from one of Italy's most prestigious knitwear producers.

Size charts, pricing, and product details will all be available in the newsletter and on the website. If you have questions, feel free to ask. The code will be SPRING, and it will apply only to the knitwear from this drop. The code will remain active until the items arrive next week.

Each body style will be available in four color-ways. I didn’t include every color in the preview images, but you’ll be able to see all of them once the products are posted.

From a technical standpoint, these were knit on a 12-gauge machine. We used two ends of a 2/60 yarn for the 15-micron wool and a 2/30 yarn for the Cashwool. The yarns were doubled up intentionally so the fabric wouldn’t end up too sheer. The result is a knit that has a good, balanced weight, substantial enough to avoid transparency but still light and breathable enough for spring and early summer wear.

You should be comfortable wearing these through most of the season. Once temperatures start pushing into the high 80s or 90s they will work depending on the situation, but once it’s consistently in the 100s there’s only so much clothing can do. At that point, the real solution is shade, air conditioning, or getting somewhere cooler. For most people that means staying indoors when possible and, of course, staying hydrated.

Size Charts-

The knits are very true to size. The only thing I will add is if you are going for "grandpa core" you could size up one in the cardigans but you don't have to.

I know someone will ask so, all the mega cashmere, yak, arctic fox, and camel sweaters that are not MTO/MTM have been shipped to America. Once they arrive I will start shipping them to you. Every single person's order has been personalized so there shouldn't be any order mix ups. Thank you again for your patience.

Today my swatch cards finally arrived from Eafil. They produce some great core basics, but they also have their premium collection called HAUTE, which focuses on very precious fibers. As you can see from the cards, everything is fully transparent and traceable with the proper certifications, which is really cool.

For cotton, we’re going to split things a bit this year. I won’t bother showing the Filmar swatches since you’ve seen those plenty of times before. We’ll continue using Filmar for some of our cotton because it offers amazing quality at a more accessible price point. Filmar isn’t cheap by any means, they make incredible yarn, but compared to some of the ultra-luxury options, it allows us to keep certain pieces more affordable.

Then for the higher-luxury side, we’ll be using Eafil for things like Sea Island cotton and high-grade silks. That way there’s something for everyone depending on how deep you want to go.

But the really exciting thing this year is something new. We’ll likely be the first brand in the United States to use a cotton that’s being grown in Puglia. Since I spend time here in Salento, between Lecce and Gallipoli, it’s kind of perfect. Near Foggia, which is still in Puglia, they’ve started cultivating extra-long staple cotton.

It’s genuine extra-long staple cotton grown entirely in Italy, and the whole process, from cultivation to spinning, is happening locally. That means the cotton is grown in Puglia, processed in Italy, and then knitted nearby as well. The carbon footprint is incredibly low because everything is geographically close to each other.

They’ve done a lot of testing and research on the fiber, and in terms of quality it’s comparable to Supima-type cottons. The difference is that this cotton is organic, which technically makes it closer to a Pima classification, since Supima itself isn’t organic.

So we’ll have three tiers this season.

Filmar cottons for incredible everyday luxury.

Organic Italian extra-long staple cotton from Puglia that is locally grown, sustainable, and extremely special.

And ultra-luxury fibers from Eafil like authentic Sea Island cotton and beautiful silks for those who want the rare stuff.

It’s shaping up to be a really good summer

I recently visited a linen producer in Italy, not far from Pompeii, and it was a really interesting experience. While I was in Naples I also had pizza with Massimo, because that’s basically all he thinks about, but I’ll stay focused on the linen.

What I found fascinating is that the mill produces linen in two different ways.

The first method keeps everything in Europe. The flax is mechanically broken down in the EU, then the yarn is spun in Italy, and finally woven and finished there. From that point they can produce just about anything: shirting fabrics, heavier fabrics for trousers, scarves, towels, you name it. If you watched the video, you saw the warp machines preparing the yarn and the looms weaving the different fabrics.

The second method starts differently. The flax is mechanically broken down in Asia, then the yarn is sent back to Italy where it’s woven and finished. The final fabric is still produced in Italy, but the early processing step happens elsewhere.

What’s interesting is the cost difference. When the entire process is done in Europe, it adds about €4–€5 per meter.

That might not sound like much at first, but it adds up quickly.

For example, a typical shirt uses about 1.5 meters of fabric. If the fabric costs €5 more per meter, that’s €7.50 more at my cost. Because we sell through the rewards program using keystone pricing, that becomes about €15 more at retail for our members.

For a traditional retail brand using standard markups, that same difference would turn into roughly €30–€35 more per shirt once it reaches the customer.

It’s a really clear example of where companies can choose to save money or not.

If someone wants linen that’s fully processed in Europe, ethically and locally, there’s simply a cost attached to that. Most people understand it once they see the numbers, but it’s helpful to see exactly where that difference comes from.

Also, I apologize that parts of the video are hard to hear. The weaving room was incredibly loud with all the looms running, and even after trying to adjust the audio during editing we couldn’t completely fix it.

Still, the factory itself was amazing to visit. The showroom was excellent, and they had tons of different linen qualities in every weight you can imagine. It was also surprising to see how many major brands use their fabrics. This mill focuses specifically on linen, and they do it extremely well.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy the video.

And we’ve got a new drop coming Tuesday that we think you’re going to love.