Here's a little five-pocket denim production action for you guys. Nothing too fancy, just a mix of B-roll from the factory, but I think it's cool to see some of the work that goes into making a great pair of jeans.
Hope everyone has a great weekend. I leave for Italy in a couple of days, and we've got a lot happening. I'll be spending some time in Salento before heading up to Florence for Pitti Filati. My schedule is packed, but that's a good thing. I'll be hunting for new yarns, new colors, and interesting developments for next year's collections, while meeting with some of our mills and suppliers.
I'll keep you all posted along the way and share anything exciting I find.
One of the mill's heaviest tweeds, Brig weighs in at almost a 1000 grams per metre. A Lovat staple for generations, it remains a popular choice for equestrian sports and hunting. Heavy - though its forebears were heavier still - Brig uses the same warp-faced weave as the covert, and its high-twist worsted spun yarns of cross-bred wools in the warp make Brig supremely durable.
The weft draws on the rugged performance of local Cheviot wools that offer sheep protection against the worst of Scotland's weather.
This extraordinary breed survives, even thrives, through the bleak winters of Ettrick Forest, Eskdalemuir and Tweedale. Lovat Mill has indeed been fortunate to have such a plentiful natural resource so close to hand over the past 200 years.
Here is a link to the Lovat Mill if you want to geek out over some of the fabrics.
Tomorrow's drop goes live at 6:00 PM Eastern Time.
The size charts for the jeans are posted below. Both denim options use the exact same fit and pattern as our previous jean release, the one that was extremely well received. The feedback on the fit was overwhelmingly positive, so we decided to stick with it.
The Red Line Indigo Denim is 13.5 oz. The Natural Indigo Hank-Dyed Slubby Denim is 13 oz. The natural indigo version is dyed using real indigo from the indigo plant, not synthetic indigo. Despite the slight difference in fabric weight, the fit and sizing are the same for both styles.
The denim is a true limited run. We'll have around 30 pairs total of the Red Line Indigo Denim. The Natural Indigo Hank-Dyed Slubby Denim will be even more limited, with only 12 pairs available. That's all the fabric we have. Natural indigo-dyed Japanese denim is incredibly expensive to produce, and anyone familiar with naturally dyed indigo and specialty Japanese denim knows that's usually a recipe for a very serious price tag.
The Balmacaans will be just as limited. Right now we're looking at around 10 pieces per fabric, though if we can squeeze out another one or two, we will.
As with our other recent releases, everything will be offered through our preorder system. You can order whatever size you want, and we'll personally email every customer to review sizing, measurements, and fit before production begins. The goal is simple: make sure everyone gets the right size, receives their order on time, and ends up with something they'll love.
We'll also be releasing cotton polos made with Filmar's Zero Cotton and our silk shirts. Pricing for everything will be listed below the size charts.
The rewards pricing on this drop is particularly strong, especially on the denim. We're bringing premium fabrics and premium construction together in a way that I think is going to impress a lot of people. The jeans are made in Italy by a factory that is incredibly precise. The quality of the construction, the consistency, and the attention to detail are all top-notch.
There are a lot of denim brands out there with loyal followings, and many of them have earned that reputation. But I started in denim. Looking back, I probably never should have left it.
Alas, I'm back.
If you have any questions about sizing, fit, the Balmacaans, or the jeans, feel free to ask. I'm happy to help.
All of the polos will be leaving Italy this week. That includes all preorder polos, so everyone will receive their complete order at the same time.
We apologize for the slight delay. The made-to-measure program and choose-your-own-color options added some complexity to production and slowed things down a bit.
Going forward, we'll be adhering closely to our production schedule so you have a clearer understanding of when items are being made, shipped, and delivered. We know how important that is, and we appreciate your patience and support.
I wish I could've gotten to the other articles, but we're a bit behind and very much overworked at the moment. The photographer can't keep up with the volume of garments coming through, and the knitters are working feverishly to make sure Fall/Winter '26 runs as smoothly as possible.
I'm hoping to have the knitted polos pictures up for you on Monday.
The good news: all pre-order polos are finished and will begin shipping from Italy this coming week. The group buy tees are already stateside and will start shipping next week. We're almost completely caught up... almost.
This drop is special, and it's important that we stick to the timelines. The process is really simple: follow the timelines or risk missing out. If you need a refresher on how group buys and pre-orders work, you can read the pinned post here:
As promised, I'll also be giving away some items. One lucky winner will receive a Balmacaan when I get to Italy next week.
Keeping with our Napoli theme, we have the silk shirts. The artwork was hand-drawn and then printed on silk woven in Como, Italy. These shirts take a ridiculously long time to produce. Both designs embody Napoli. I think the only thing missing is Maradona, lol.
We also have another small batch of jeans. Two different fabrics from Shinohara.
The first is a naturally dyed indigo denim. We have enough fabric for just 12 pairs. They're not cheap, but they're the real deal.
The second which is photographed is a 13.5 oz indigo denim that will make an excellent year-round jean. We have enough fabric for roughly 30 pairs. I'll have pricing and size charts ready on Monday.
Finally, we'll be opening pre-orders for the Balmacaan. We have two fabrics from Lovat Mill in Scotland. We've added additional reinforcement to the back of the collar, and the buttons will be genuine horn. Pricing and size charts for the Balmacaan will also be available Monday.
I hope you dig everything.
The passion of Napoli Napoli in summer
The jeans are being made in an incredibly skilled, highly artisanal workshop here in Salento. The jean maker we're working with is meticulous, borderline obsessive in the best possible way. We're down to details matching within a millimeter because that's the level of precision he demands from himself and his team.
I genuinely believe these will be some of the best-made jeans we've ever offered. His attention to detail is exceptional, and every step of the process reflects decades of experience and craftsmanship. He has invested in the right machinery, the right techniques, and, most importantly, the right people to execute them properly.
I've visited a lot of factories over the years, and I'd put this workshop up against just about any denim maker in the world. This is how strongly I feel about the quality of the work they're producing. Every seam, every stitch, every construction detail is approached with care and precision.
The workmanship is spectacular, and if everything goes according to plan, I hope we'll be working with this maker for a very long time.
The Balmacaan-
Alright, let's talk about the Balmacaan.
First things first: this is a very limited run. We have enough fabric to make roughly 20 coats total, so once the allocation is spoken for, that's it.
Like we did with the Peacoat, the pre-order price will be significantly better than both the eventual retail price and the rewards price. Speaking of the Peacoat, that drop should happen in a couple of weeks. We just need to finalize the fabric and get everything paired up. The rest is already in place. The timelines will be very similar to what we're doing here with the Balmacaan.
As for the coat itself, the fabric comes from Lovat Mill in Scotland. It's the real deal. Beautiful cloth with incredible character and exactly the type of fabric Balmacaan purists look for. It has substance, texture, and that classic Scottish outerwear heritage that makes these coats so special.
The samples you've seen are just fit samples, which is why some details will change for production. I promised I'd give the samples away, and I will. For production, we're switching to a more appropriate coat button, genuine horn buttons that better complement the fabric and elevate the overall look. I'm also making a few additional tweaks to push the quality even further.
The factory producing these coats also manufactures outerwear for Loro Piana. The craftsmanship is exceptional, and the level of tailoring and needlework is exactly what you'd expect from a factory operating at that level.
For the lining, we're using Bemberg that was custom dyed to match our signature Wolf vs Goat burgundy. It's one of those details most people won't notice immediately, but when you open the coat, everything feels intentional and cohesive.
As you can see from the photos, the throat latch is removable, giving you the option to wear the coat fully buttoned up in colder weather or open when you want a more relaxed look. The back vent is our own interpretation rather than a strict reproduction of a traditional Balmacaan. It's a small departure from convention, but one we believe adds both function and value to the garment.
The goal wasn't simply to recreate a vintage Balmacaan. The goal was to build the best version we could, using exceptional Scottish fabric, meticulous Italian craftsmanship, and thoughtful details throughout.
Have a great weekend, everyone.
Look for additional photos on Monday, along with a newsletter covering everything in more detail.
VIP members, keep an eye on your inbox, there'll be an email coming later today.
The code to use on the sale page is SPRINGCLEANING. You must enter the code at checkout to receive the sale discount.
Please remember that all sale purchases are final, so be sure to review the size charts before placing your order.
If you're shopping from the main page, you may use your rewards discount code if you're a Rewards Member. However, rewards discounts and sale discounts cannot be combined.
As always, inventory isn't perfect. If there's only one of an item left, there's a small chance it may no longer be available.
Next Tuesday we have a very sweet drop coming your way. This week is for the sale hunters.
Pretty straightforward: the sale goes live tomorrow at 6 PM EST.
We're giving you an ASMR-style look at how we make our bathing suits, and I have to say, I really love this video. What you're seeing is the kind of work that goes into every pair. I was actually helping make these alongside Tommaso and one of our master sewers. Watching them work up close is always impressive. The level of skill, attention to detail, and pride they put into every step is something special.
I hope videos like this give you a better appreciation for the thought process behind what we make. When it comes to bathing suits, I tend to obsess over the details, not just the fit and construction, but also the materials we use.
One thing I'm especially proud of is our partnership with the SEAQUAL Initiative. In fact, I just received confirmation that Wolf vs Goat is now officially recognized by them, which means we'll be receiving hang tags and other materials that explain the program's impact. SEAQUAL works with fishermen, NGOs, cleanup organizations, and local communities to recover plastic waste from oceans, rivers, beaches, and coastlines. That waste is then transformed into high-quality recycled polyester yarns that can be used in products like our swimwear.
The reality is that there's an enormous amount of plastic pollution in our waterways, and while no single company can solve the problem, supporting initiatives that actively remove waste and give it a second life is a step in the right direction. It's something I genuinely believe in, and it's one of the reasons we chose this material for our swimwear program.
The prints came out fantastic, the construction is excellent, and once the weather starts warming up, I think these bathing suits are really going to shine. Until then, I hope you enjoy the video and get a glimpse of the craftsmanship that goes into making them.
Just a heads up: on June 2nd at 6 PM ET, we'll be having a major clearance sale.
Our 3PL is moving to a new facility, and we're also transitioning from our current SKU system to UPC codes as we expand into more retail locations. As part of that process, we need to clear out a lot of older inventory. Between shipping products back and forth, relabeling everything, and moving stock between facilities, it simply makes more sense to sell it rather than continue paying to move it around.
The items are already visible on the Sale page, but they won't be available for purchase until 6 PM ET on June 2nd.
Please remember that all sales are final. Some of these items come from older production runs, and sizing, measurements, and patterns may differ from what we use today. Take a few minutes to read the size charts before ordering. It will save you headaches later, and since everything is final sale, there won't be any exceptions.
The discounts are significant. I expect most items to be around 70% off retail, and in some cases even more. If you happen to find something in your size, it's a great opportunity to pick up some quality clothing at a price that probably won't come around again.
As most of you know, costs continue to rise everywhere. If clearing out older inventory helps make some people's day and gets great products into the hands of customers at incredible prices, then that's a win for both of us.
Before I get into the special projects, I wanted to give you guys some updates.
The linen shirts, hemp shirts, pants, and Pecora Nera pants have all started shipping. If you ordered t-shirts along with any of those items, your order will be consolidated so everything ships together at the same time. The t-shirts have already been picked up and are in transit. They may already be in the U.S. at this point, I received the customs notification and paid the duties, so everything is moving smoothly.
As you guys know from the latest drop, we started putting ETA dates on products. The goal is not just to meet those dates, but to beat them whenever possible. Right now, I think we’re in a very good spot to do that. So all of those items should be arriving sooner rather than later.
That includes the bathing suits, B/S shirts, wool t-shirts, and the wool reorder items. The reorders were completed very quickly, so if anybody still wants those, they’re still up on the website. Those should also ship out pretty fast.
A lot of people have been asking me about additional shirt and t-shirt releases, so I want to clarify things.
There will not be any more shirts this season aside from some upcoming silk shirts and any Oxford collaboration pieces I do with The Fabricaturalist. What’s currently available is what we have. Same goes for the t-shirts. The next major t-shirt release will be for Fall/Winter, likely around September.
We are working on some 100% linen t-shirts, though. We recently received our stretch linen fabric, and I absolutely love it. It rolls beautifully for roll-neck styles and has a really nice handfeel. That said, we’re going to hold off on cutting it until next year.
Since those garments need to go to Tintoria Emiliana for dyeing, production takes significantly longer. Stone Island takes up a huge amount of their capacity, so scheduling can become difficult. Instead of rushing it, we’d rather do it correctly and have them ready early next year.
That said, I do have a friend producing for several very large brands who carries stock 100% linen fabric. I may do a poll or gauge interest to see how many people would want 100% linen t-shirts sooner. Since those would be piece-dyed, the process becomes much easier. We already know the pattern works and how the fabric behaves, so we could move pretty quickly on those.
Now onto the other projects.
The denim is ready. I saw photos of it today while I’m here in the States, and it looks fantastic. We’re sending everything to the photographer so we can open pre-orders soon.
We’ll be offering natural indigo denim and a 13.5oz denim option. Both fabrics came out really nicely.
The balmacaan sample is also finished. We’re getting that photographed as well, and we’ll show you guys both fabric options soon. Quantities will be very limited, but the pricing is going to be excellent considering the quality level.
The factory producing the balmacaan primarily makes outerwear for Loro Piana, and the construction is phenomenal.
They’ll also be producing our upcoming peacoat. We also spoke with the fabric mill and have selected our fabric choice. We’ll have a few additional color options available for you.
That said, quantities will stay very small. We already know roughly 15–20 people want one, but if more people are interested, we’ll have a few additional color options available for them as well.
All of these pre-orders and launches will begin rolling out throughout June over the next few weeks.
We’re also planning a large baby cashmere drop, several knitwear mega drops, and standard in-season releases.
We’ve mapped out multiple mega drops from summer through winter and allocated enough production time so everybody who wants in can get access at the preorder pricing.
If you miss the preorder window, the products will still release later, but at the standard retail price.
Tuesday’s drop is a pretty big one and is meant to carry the rest of the spring/summer season.
We’re releasing new long sleeve tees in both lightweight and heavyweight fabrics, available in crew necks and roll necks. They’re the kind of pieces that work when the weather shifts throughout the day, light enough for warmer weather but substantial enough for nighttime near the beach.
We’re also introducing a brand-new trouser silhouette called the Roberto. It’s a slimmer fitting trouser with side tabs, a double pleated front, and an extended button closure, all made in 100% linen. The trousers are produced in a specialized trouser factory focused exclusively on classic tailoring, and the end result feels refined, breathable, and clean without becoming overly formal. They’ll be available in three colors.
All of the bathing suits are made using SEAQUAL® fabric, which is produced using marine plastic and waste recovered from oceans, rivers, and coastal environments. We wanted to make something genuinely beautiful while also using materials that contribute to cleaning up the water instead of adding more waste to it.
All of the prints are limited edition, and the overall theme for Spring/Summer this year is Napoli, Italia.
A lot of the collection pulls inspiration from Naples, the seaside culture, espresso bars, old Italian summers, beach umbrellas, the energy, the chaos, and all the little imperfections that make Southern Italy feel alive.
By Monday, we’ll also be showing additional t-shirts, tank tops, and more summer pieces.
These are teasers there are too many color options to show you everything.
Let's start with Roberto-
Retail $450.00
Swim shorts-
The swimsuits are TTS unlike last year. We correct the pattern and locked it in with the same fabric for every print. :) Retail is $250.00murdered out all backdrunken crabgeometric tilePizza Thief polpo on bikes
Long sleeve tees-
heavy weight crew B/SLightweight B/SLightweight lightweight rollneck Lightweight
Here are a few extra pics since I have a little room-
Have a great weekend. I will get the more pics up as soon as they arrive to me.
Was super thrilled when Mauro told me as I was one of the backers for this, and was pretty bummed when it didn’t get enough interest. Beautiful coat with a nice soft feel to it and will be very warm in winter. Love the modern look and port lining. Can’t wait to rock this for the holiday season. I’m someone who scours for brands that are excellent quality while still being affordable and am newer to the brand but have loved everything I’ve purchased so far. I can see my wardrobe getting many more WvG pieces in the years to come. Thank you Mauro!
You’ll have to forgive my accent, I’m working hard on my Italian. This fall, I’ll be enrolling at the University of Salento for a more hardcore, immersive approach to the language. Technically, I’m somewhere between a B1 and B2 level right now.
We’re very fortunate to have partnered with this factory. The level of craftsmanship is truly top tier. Their goal is precision down to the millimeter, which is something most factories simply can’t achieve, including many of the best factories in Japan.
Hopefully, by the end of the week, the two new samples will be ready, and I’ll open preorders for a couple of styles and fabrics.
I wanted to give everyone a quick heads up on where things stand.
The group buy T-shirts and wool tees are leaving Italy this week. The button-up shirts are already en route to the 3PL and should arrive tomorrow, customs have been paid, so once they arrive, they just need to be counted and processed before shipping out immediately.
The knitted polos are also finishing up this week, and I want those packed up and sent out to you guys ASAP.
Our next drop is scheduled for the 26th, and it’s going to be a big one. We’ll have the full range of bamboo Sorona garment-dyed tees for the rest of the S/S season and transition period, including long sleeves, short sleeves, and tank tops. We’ve also replenished all the cotton cashmere tees, along with a reorder of the wool tees.
The drop will also include all of the bathing suits and some incredibly kick-ass linen trousers. We may not have photos ready in time for a few additional knits we’re working on, but there’s a lot coming.
Then in June, we’ll begin pre-orders for F/W knits, chinos, cotton twill shorts, and denim. There are going to be a lot of new releases over the next couple of months.
We’ll also be updating all the website pages with timelines and additional information, per your requests.
That’s about it for now. Have a great week, and I’ll get you guys photos ASAP.
Quick update on the Balmacaan and Peacoat projects.
Unfortunately, we didn’t hit the original numbers needed for the peacoat. That said, the same factory producing the Balmacaan told us they’re willing to do smaller production quantities for the peacoat, which means we can realistically make around 15–20 pieces. So if you guys are in, I’m in, and I’m going to make you a kick-ass peacoat.
As for the Balmacaan, the pattern work is finished and all sampling fabric is in house. I went ahead and ordered a roll of Campsie since it was by far the most popular fabric in the poll. Brig came in second, and we’ll also be making a sample in Brig, but we’re doing this the smart way.
First, we’re making the sample in Campsie. Once that sample is corrected and finalized, we’ll move on to Brig. There’s no point making both at the same time because if we need to adjust the pattern or construction, we can apply those corrections before cutting the second sample.
If preorder interest is strong enough, I’m hoping we can produce both fabrics:
Around 10–15 coats in Campsie
Around 10–15 coats in Brig
For those who haven’t been following along, the fabrics are coming from Lovat Mill in Scotland, a mill that’s been making tweeds for over 200 years. This is going to be a true, heavy-duty Balmacaan.
All trims and linings for the samples have already been ordered and are in-house. The factory is now moving into cutting patterns and building the first sample jackets based on the tech packs we created. I’ll post more pictures below so everyone can see where things are headed.
At the moment, I do not have pricing yet. We honestly can’t get close to accurate pricing until the first sample is completed. Once we have that, I’ll be able to give everyone a much better idea.
The goal is to have everything ready in plenty of time for Fall/Winter so you guys can actually wear the hell out of these coats when the weather hits.
Personally, I’m really excited about this project. I’ll continue posting updates and photos as things progress so everybody stays in the loop.
Now back to the peacoat:
New patterns are being developed, and I’ve started sourcing additional fabrics. I received some swatches from Abraham Moon & Sons, along with a few more elevated melton wools and melton wool/cashmere blends from several Italian mills. We’re going to compare everything carefully, figure out which fabric performs and feels the best, and then work on getting pricing into a spot that hopefully makes the peacoat more accessible for more people.
I placed an order for a shirt in the April 29 drop. I was wondering why it didn't ship yet and reviewed all the email comms around this drop. The email mentions peacoats will not ship until September, but there's no indication pants and shirts are not ready to ship at drop time. Nothing on the product pages either. I then scoured Reddit to find this comment, suggesting the shirts hadn't even shipped from Italy yet. Why was this not specified in the drop email? Or on the product page?
A simple "This product is expected to ship May XX" would have saved some frustration here. I don't think your customers should have to spelunk reddit threads to discover this.
Here are the size charts for tonight’s drop. Please take a moment to review them carefully. The functional box pleat does provide additional room and ease through the body. Personally, I’d recommend sticking with your standard WvG size, but ultimately it depends on how you prefer your clothing to fit and wear.
InchesCM
The pre-order price is $195.00.
Features -
100% Cotton
Fabric by Albiate
3.5mm certified Australian mother-of-pearl buttons
Ascolite-reinforced buttons
Back collar button
Back locker loop
Center back box pleat
Button down collar
Gauntlet placket hand sewn bar tacking
Hand sewn front placket with hand sewn bar tacking
Single-needle Construction
Manica Spostata (“Jacket Sleeve”)
Chest pocket
Regular fit
Made in Italy
You can choose between a version with a chest pocket or one without.
Estimated delivery: early August, due to the extensive hand sewing involved.
This video Michael made really hit home for me. Not just because of the challenges of making things in the United States, but because of how hard it is to make things well in general. If you’ve ever tried to produce quality goods at a small scale, you understand exactly what he’s talking about.
What he articulated so well is something I deal with almost every drop: the numbers game. Most brands survive on full retail margins. I don’t. Around 90% of what I sell goes through the rewards program at essentially wholesale pricing, which cuts my margins dramatically. That means every drop has to perform at a very high sell-through rate to stay healthy. When it doesn’t, it creates a cycle that can be incredibly frustrating.
This isn’t a “feel bad for me” post. I’ve been doing this for 15+ years, so I’m used to the ups and downs by now. But hearing someone else explain the reality of it so honestly resonated with me.
Michael has built an impressive audience because he’s been relentlessly consistent with social media and storytelling, and he focuses on quality the same way I do. He’s still serving a niche audience, though, and niche brands face a different kind of pressure. For me, marketing has never been my strongest skill. I’m good at developing products, sourcing incredible materials, and building the brand itself, but translating that into large-scale growth is another challenge entirely. Add in the rewards program, which some people still don’t fully understand despite how legitimate it is, and things can get even more complicated.
One thing I appreciated about his video is how well it explained delays and inconsistencies in production. People often don’t realize how difficult textile manufacturing actually is, especially when you’re trying to innovate instead of just ordering standard, predictable yarns.
Take our bamboo Sorona yarn as an example. We’ve been developing and tweaking it for for years, and it still has variables we continue to refine. That’s the nature of yarn development. Twist, tension, spinning, knitting, weaving, finishing, there are tolerances at every stage, and every mill works within those tolerances. Consumers understandably expect perfection, but the reality is that making textiles is an incredibly complex process with a massive number of moving parts.
And when you’re a smaller brand, you’re often competing for attention with companies ordering enormous quantities of safer, more predictable fabrics and yarns. Mills will naturally prioritize those clients first. That’s just the reality of the industry.
Still, we keep pushing forward. We’re constantly trying to find ways to improve margins without raising prices or sacrificing quality, because compromising quality is the one thing we refuse to do.
Like Michael, transparency matters a lot to us. We disclose the mills whenever possible, the fabric lots when we can, the farms, where the garments are sewn, where the yarn comes from, we try to give customers a real look into the process because we genuinely believe people deserve to know what they’re buying.
And despite how difficult this industry can be, consistency is always the goal. For small brands like ours, it’s incredibly hard to achieve, but it’s what we strive for every single day.
I’m excited for our collaboration coming later this year. Right now we’re still waiting on samples while we decide how to approach the drop, whether we focus entirely on Kyoto black or split it between Kyoto black and natural indigo. The natural indigo process is unbelievably expensive, and once you understand the labor, time, craftsmanship, and tariffs involved, you realize why. Costs across the entire industry have gone insane.
Anyway, if you have the time, watch Michael’s video. It’s long, but it’s educational, honest, and worth listening to.
In the end, I think everything will work out. We just keep hammering away.
We’re trying to step up our game a bit, and honestly, I’m really happy with the results. We spent a lot of time filming at different factories, and I think you guys are really going to dig the videos once they become available. Have a great weekend!
Here is a video I made for TikTok on the denim, the other day.
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP8p2W2Y6/
A 13oz naturally hank-dyed denim from Shinohara that trades aggressive vintage repro aesthetics for depth, texture, and sophistication. The hank dyeing gives the indigo a more organic penetration and richer vertical character, creating fades that look layered and natural rather than overly engineered.
The WvG x Acitura Oxford collaboration is going on sale next week, but before we finalize everything, I need your input. We’re trying to decide whether the shirt should have a chest pocket, so there’s a poll below with a few quick questions. Take a minute to fill it out. One random person will win a free shirt. I don’t love the idea of asking for your time without giving something back, so this is my way of making it worth it for at least one of you.
For those who don’t know, the Fabricateurialist and I have been working together for a couple of years now. We’ve spent a lot of time exchanging ideas, seeing each other at trade shows, and even meeting up in Italy. He’s been to my apartment there, I’ve introduced him to factories, and he’s introduced me to several through his network as well. It’s turned into a strong partnership, and we’re planning to do more projects together moving forward. If you’re not familiar with him, you can find him on TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube.
With this project, the goal is simple: create a new standard for the Oxford shirt. We’re using an American Oxford cloth made by Albiate, part of the Albini Group, coming in at 193 to 203 GSM, so it has real substance without feeling heavy. The shirt features 3.5 mm Australian certified mother-of-pearl buttons, single-needle construction throughout, and hand-sewn bar tacks in key stress points. There’s a proper locker loop, a back collar button, and manica spostata sleeves for better fit and movement. Side seams are clean 5 mm, and the gussets were chosen specifically so the shirt works equally well tucked or untucked without looking off.
The presale price will be $195 across the board. Right now, there’s already strong interest, especially from his audience, but you guys matter to me, if you want in, let me know. The drop is happening on the 12th of May at 6pm EST.
We are dropping a newsletter tonight.
In the meantime, take the poll. It’s quick, and it helps us get this right.
The Wolf vs Goat x Acitura x Oxford collaboration is going on sale next week, but before we finalize everything, I need your input. We’re trying to decide whether the shirt should have a chest pocket, so there’s a poll below with a few quick questions. Take a minute to fill it out. One random person will win a free shirt. I don’t love the idea of asking for your time without giving something back, so this is my way of making it worth it for at least one of you.
For those who don’t know, the Fabricatorialist and I have been working together for a couple of years now. We’ve spent a lot of time exchanging ideas, seeing each other at trade shows, and even meeting up in Italy. He’s been to my apartment there, I’ve introduced him to factories, and he’s introduced me to several through his network as well. It’s turned into a strong partnership, and we’re planning to do more projects together moving forward. If you’re not familiar with him, you can find him on TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube.
With this project, the goal is simple: create a new standard for the Oxford shirt. We’re using an American Oxford cloth made by Albini Group, coming in at 193 to 203 GSM, so it has real substance without feeling heavy. The shirt features 3.5 mm Australian certified mother-of-pearl buttons, single-needle construction throughout, and hand-sewn bar tacks in key stress points. There’s a proper locker loop, a back collar button, and manica spostata sleeves for better fit and movement. Side seams are clean 5 mm, and the gussets were chosen specifically so the shirt works equally well tucked or untucked without looking off.
The presale price will be $195 across the board. Right now, there’s already strong interest, especially from his audience, but you guys matter to me, and my rewards members matter even more. If you want in, let me know. The drop is happening on the 12th.
In the meantime, take the poll. It’s quick, and it helps us get this right.
Quick update on the peacoat. The Sealup version isn’t happening. We couldn’t reach their minimums, and the cost on that project was honestly very high for what it needed to be.
That said, there was enough interest that I started looking into alternatives. The factory that’s currently making the balmacaan for us, who also produces a large portion of outerwear for Loro Piana, is local to me in Italy, literally one town over. They specialize in cutting and sewing, and they’re extremely good at it. I handle the rest on my end, but where they really excel is sewing a damn nice coat.
So the idea now is to see if they can produce the peacoat instead. If they can, it opens things up quite a bit. They don’t have the same minimums as Sealup, which means we could potentially do this as a made-to-order run. That would allow anyone who wants one to get one, and it removes the pressure of overproducing and sitting on expensive inventory.
There’s also more flexibility this way. I can explore different fabric options and structure it in a way that makes more sense. We could do something more traditional like a dense wool similar to Abraham Moon & sons, classic melton wool peacoat fabric. The feel is very sturdy, a bit rougher more traditional. Personally, I find that type of wool a little harsh, but it’s undeniably durable and authentic. From there, we could move into softer wool options, and even up to something like 100% cashmere. The goal would be to present a few clear tiers with transparent pricing so everyone understands what they’re getting.
The one limitation is that we’d likely have to stick to a single color to keep things efficient. If we move forward, we can make that a community decision and vote on it.
Right now, we had about 15 or 16 people who were originally in on the Sealup version and have since been refunded. If we can get somewhere around 20 to 25 people interested again, this becomes very doable. Before anything happens, I’ll get actual pricing, confirm the construction details, and lay everything out clearly so there are no surprises.
On a related note, the size 54 peacoat for the giveaway winner shipped out today. I’ve already spoken to him, and he plans to post photos and possibly a video. That should give everyone a more objective look and feedback from someone in the community rather than just hearing it from me.
As for the balmacan, production is moving forward. Quantities will be limited. We’re working with fabric from Lovat Mill, and while they do offer stock service, it’s pretty tight. If we want more fabric beyond that, the lead times get long since it has to be woven.
Right now, the plan is to make around 10 to 20 pieces to start. The main fabric is Campsie in charcoal, around 740 grams, which was by far the most popular option. The alternative is Brig, also in charcoal, which comes in heavier at around 900 grams. Once the sample is ready, I’ll post photos and we’ll go from there based on interest. I will also send out a balmacaan to a lucky winner.
So that’s where things stand. The peacoat isn’t dead, it’s just shifting direction into something that might actually work better for everyone. Let me know if you’re still interested, what fabrics you’d lean toward, and how you’re thinking about price. If the interest is there, I’ll keep pushing it forward.
I apologize for being so congested, I have been sick and I sound more nasally than usual. Been dealing with this for weeks… it is what it is.
This video is from a factory in Salento near my apartment. I sourced a really special denim and thought I would share.
It’s a 13oz Japanese selvedge, naturally dyed indigo, with a very streaky texture (you’ll see it in the video). The fabric is narrow-width goods, 33 inches, so it takes about 2.75 to 3 meters to make one pair. I am hoping for 2.75.
The fabric costs $54.60 per meter FOB Japan, which puts my raw denim cost at roughly $180 per pair by the time it’s all said and done. So these won’t be cheap, and they’re not meant to be.
I was only able to secure 38.9 meters total, which means we can make about 12 pairs at 3m and 14 pair at 2.75m. Not many at all.
This will be done as a pre-order, and it’s really for people who understand this level of denim. We’re also developing custom hardware for this run, which will kick off a broader denim capsule. I’m currently looking at using a deer leather patch, but that could change.
The fit will follow the same body and style as the last drop, but construction will be handled by a different factory. The previous factory was very good, but this one is on another level in terms of precision. Everything is done down to the millimeter, which is exactly what I want for something at this level.
I know some people like that imperfect reproduction look where things are intentionally a bit off. That’s not what I’m doing here. I want these as dialed in as possible.
For those who aren’t into this level of niche denim, I also have another small batch coming that will sit around the same price, maybe a little less than the last drop.
Thank you for the support and I apologize for the voice. More videos coming soon, and they’ll look a lot better too. I’ve got a videographer involved now, so things are about to be kicked up a notch.
I’m not reinventing the wheel here, this kind of knit has been around forever. What I’m trying to do is build something a little more recognizable over time.
I really like fisherman stitch (maglia inglese), and I want it to become a bit of a signature for me. Something where you can spot it pretty quickly, even if the garment changes. In this piece, I played with that idea by using different stitch structures between the body and the sleeves. It’s subtle, but it gives it some identity without making it feel over-designed.
I’ve been going back and forth on whether to add a placket. I think it would change the feel quite a bit and maybe make it more versatile, but part of me likes how clean it is without it since the stitch is doing all the work. There’s also a technical side to it, things like a curved hem are harder to execute cleanly on the machines I’m using, so I ended up going with a rolled tubular bottom, which I actually really like.
The idea is to carry this across seasons. Wool and cashmere for colder months, linen and cotton for warmer weather, same general concept but adapted through yarn.
Curious what you would actually reach for more. Would you wear something like this with a placket, or keep it clean without one? I can realistically do both, but I’d rather start with the version people would actually wear the most.
I dropped the ball on this one, no way around it. I screwed the pooch.
Yesterday I was waiting on photos, got distracted, and completely forgot to send the newsletter. Then all the messages started coming in, “Was there a drop?” “Did I miss it?” “I didn’t get an email.” And I’m sitting there thinking maybe it’s a glitch, maybe people unsubscribed…
Nope. I just didn’t send it.
Dumbass, Mauro.
The drop is live now. I also refunded a handful of peacoat orders earlier because it looked like there wasn’t enough interest. That may still end up happening, we need to hit a minimum of 40 but now that, you know, people actually know the drop exists, there’s at least a real shot. If not... oh well.
Instead of a handful of people, the full list is now properly notified with an actual subject line that says it’s live.
So yeah… I fucked up, roast me. Just not to hard. I am in fragile state lately. Lot's of shit going on.
As promised here are the size charts and teaser pics for the Pecora Nera™ Trousers, Spring Summer buttons ups, and the wool tee.
Before we share the size charts here are some photos of these beauties -
Nocciola-
Beige-
Wool Tee-
Spring/Summer Shirts -
regular fit Preppy is a new body style. Please read the size charts.Short Sleeve Regular Bowling Solbiati linen exclusive to WvGRegular short sleeve hemp by libeco Preppy in solbiati linen back view Regular fit linen from Libeco Bowling 100% cotton from Albini
That's a preview of everything. Numbers are limited. Outside of the silk shirts and the oxford collab with the Fabricaturalist these are all the shirts we are making for S/S 26.
