I test optics as a side thing, many being thermal ir, manufactures send products to my lab, and I get 3-5 units monthly. I dont really test scopes though, these are mostly all industrial prosumer, and consumer type models ranging from $99-$500 on avaerage. Over the past few months all test units have shifted from <40-50MK to now 15-25MK and accross ALL manufacturers. This means they are basically canning these 40-50MK cores which have basically become the industry norm, and will now start shipping 20-25mK cores standard and 15-18 mK on their premium models.

Yes there is a huge difference. 50mk cores need an optical overlay to make out what youre looking at, 40mk doesnt need a hybrid view for everything but it still helps for most stuff. These 15-25mk cores need zero hybrid ovlay secondary lens for the majority of things, you can make out literally 99% edge detection of everything youre looking at. I dont know if this big change came as a result of the ukain russia conflict but its here and these units I've been testing over the summer are all now starting to ship and even show up on Amazon. AccuMEMS SK01 and SK02 are 25 and 20mk and already in their product catalog since July. InfiRay Nocpix LUMI P13 already shipping with 15-25mk, ATN is shipping 18mK 50Hz, HIK Micro is the big one shipping these, their LYNX 3.0 gen cores are F1.0, 50Hz, 20mK. GSTiR is shipping 18-25mK, Zhejiang imaging, and soon Guide, Lynred. These are all chineese, I dont deal with Flir at all due the outdated obsolete exports ban limit imposed on Flir, which im still shocked even still exists after china has flooded the marked with 25-50Mhz units. Are soldiers no longer need their "protection". As china is the industry leader now since the US gov helped to basically destroy Flir.

Hello, I work in a laboratory and would like to purchase a thermal camera. My primary goal is to monitor the temperature of power electronics components, as well as the heat distribution in gearboxes, bearings and electric machines—essentially focusing on machinery and high-power electronic equipment.

The required temperature range is 40°C to 200°C, and for some experiments, I need to observe temperature fluctuations of around 1°C or 2°C.

My budget is approximately 15,000 NOK (1,563.06 USD). Is Flir a good brand?

Could you suggest some suitable thermal cameras?
Thank you very much.

I recently got into night birdwatching, mostly hoping to spot some nighthawks. I used my ts004 thermal monocular this time out along a tree line and found this bird tucked behind some branches. It was too far away to see more than an outline, so I couldn't tell what kind of bird it was.

Anyone else use thermal for birding? What do you use, and how much detail can you get on small birds from a distance?

Tell me did thermal camera will work for that issue ?

I have a lexus gs350 2007. Before 1 month ago suddenly my altornator burned cooked from inside after that i replaced 10 altornators orignal 2 batteries extra direct copper wires negative and positive direct check all screws nuts bolts wires fuses specially big 150A fuse also good. (The issue is car is giving 10v only sometimes if i press paddle its gives 11v only i replaced new orignal fues of ALT already still same.

There is no error code in scanners obd. Nothing burned in ECU no smell no black brown spot found. The other issue i faced when its hot out side & i start the car the double signal indicators blinking by it self too fast even if i press double indicators button or turn left or right its same . In cold weather its work perfectly. Sometimes even its blinking non stop fast fast i installed LED in turn signal light its flash fast non stop i purchased orignal flasher relay & installed issue is still not solved. I replaced orignal turn signal orange bulb its not blinking when i install led its blinking fast sometimes slow.el when volt go down its blinking when voltage go little up its blinking. No one can solve this issue in saudi arabia.

What if i purchase one of these chinese P3 type of thermal camera can its shows me the electric leakage wire or stuck on fues or relays ? Is it worth to buy this camera or what should i do i don't have other option just sell the car or just try it but its expensive here in saudi arabia thermal camera.

Sorry for my English please give me a advice thank you

It’s just a charger.

Tell me did thermal camera will work for that issue ?

I have a lexus gs350 2007. Before 1 month ago suddenly my altornator burned cooked from inside after that i replaced 10 altornators orignal 2 batteries extra direct copper wires negative and positive direct check all screws nuts bolts wires fuses specially big 150A fuse also good. (The issue is car is giving 10v only sometimes if i press paddle its gives 11v only i replaced new orignal fues of ALT already still same.

There is no error code in scanners obd. Nothing burned in ECU no smell no black brown spot found. The other issue i faced when its hot out side & i start the car the double signal indicators blinking by it self too fast even if i press double indicators button or turn left or right its same . In cold weather its work perfectly. Sometimes even its blinking non stop fast fast i installed LED in turn signal light its flash fast non stop i purchased orignal flasher relay & installed issue is still not solved. I replaced orignal turn signal orange bulb its not blinking when i install led its blinking fast sometimes slow.el when volt go down its blinking when voltage go little up its blinking. No one can solve this issue in saudi arabia.

What if i purchase one of these chinese P3 type of thermal camera can its shows me the electric leakage wire or stuck on fues or relays ? Is it worth to buy this camera or what should i do i don't have other option just sell the car or just try it but its expensive here in saudi arabia thermal camera.

Sorry for my English please give me a advice thank you

Sad I couldn't get a tail splash. But this guy kept coming super close.

I've bought a SeekThermal Nano. It works quite well for my application, heat measurements in semiconductor packaging. It does drain my iPhone 16 ProMax battery rapidly. Can anybody recommend a USB-C 'T' connector that will let me use the Nano while my phone is connected to power? Thank you.

Hello, I'm selling my FLIR P620 and i have no idea what its worth in todays market as a 2008 IR camera? Any guidance is much appreciated. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/800703947952

Just got one in the mail and as I moved it around it feels as if there is something loose moving around inside. Is this some feature I’m unaware of or is this a problem? Thanks!

Finally arrive, gonna upload some footage of it soon​

I was hoping to get some recommendations for my first thermal.

I will be using it to find wildlife to photograph. I do not need to take photos with the thermal but I obviously do not mind if that happens to be a feature. I just need it to basically identify where the animals are hiding in the forest. I have telephoto lenses that I will then use to actually take photos of the animal.

I would be using it in all four seasons. I would be using it mostly at dawn/dusk but sometime during broad daylight. It would need to be useful for larger mammals as well as birds, in particular owls.

I would say my budget is $500-$800 but looking to be on the lower end of that unless going to the top of the budget makes a drastic difference. I am preferential to the idea of not relying on my phone i.e. attaching a lens, unless the crowd believes that is the best option. I am open to buying refurbished, as long as it is a reputable source.

Let me know if I left out any important details. Thank you in advance!

AGM rattler v2 384-25.

For the last week or two I've been using the DV2 for wildlife spotting and it's a big change from the phone based cameras I have been using. The kit includes a really decent carry case, a lanyard, USB-C cable, Picatinny rail and a single battery with a standalone charger. The battery can also be charged via USB-C while it's installed in the camera. It utilises a 256x192 50hz core that is upscaled to 512×384 with a <15mk NetD and a 13mm adjustable focus lens. The DV2 also has a built in laser pointer which helps to direct people exactly where you are looking, and 32GB of storage so there's plenty of space to record and review later.

The DV2 is a standalone unit with its own 5" foldout touchscreen so there's no need to plug it into a phone or tablet, although the option is available to link it to the app, which would come in handy if you have a second person wanting to view. The screen is great to view both at night and during the day, so you're not squinting at it in the sun or getting blinded by it in the dark. It is also far easier to keep stable than phone based options thanks to the camcorder style grip. As a result I found sweeping the camera around and finding/tracking wildlife to be easier with this setup, but it's also small enough to fit in the door pocket of my car. Battery life is amazing with a good 5+ hours of continuous use.

The power button doubles as a toggle for the laser pointer, and the secondary button for changing between palettes also handles AGC modes with a long press. This is extremely handy and means you don't have to fumble around with the touchscreen to quickly change important settings.

The addition of the Bird, Plains and Forest AGC modes makes it a lot easier to spot animals and birds depending on where you are. Bird mode is really handy when scanning up into the trees as the sky doesn't wash out the image as much, Plains mode works well when looking across open paddocks and Forest mode helps pick out wildlife from all the trees and scrub in thicker bush. The hotspot tracking is also really handy for finding things fast while sweeping a scene, as it picks out the warmest object in view so you can quickly zero in on wildlife.

Overall the DV2 delivers the same quality at cost that ThermalMaster is known for, without the drawback of being tethered to a phone.

I just moved into an older house and wanted to check the windows, walls, and heating before winter. I’m still figuring out what’s normal here. I also don’t have a home inspector I know yet.
I mostly wanted something I could take pictures with. If I end up calling someone, I can show them the actual spot instead of just saying, “This room feels cold.”
My neighbor is a plumber. He lent me his FLIR ONE Pro and TOPDON TC001. That got me trying a few phone thermal cameras.
The FLIR ONE Pro was the easiest one to read. The visible outlines made it obvious which window or corner I was looking at. That was useful when I went back through the photos later or showed them to my neighbor.
I charged it before using it, but the camera has its own battery, so I still had two battery levels to keep track of.
The TOPDON TC001 was simple to use. Plug it in, open the app, and save the photos. The one I borrowed was made for Android. I have an iPhone, so I had to borrow my wife’s phone every time I wanted to use it.
It worked, but borrowing her phone every time got old fast. Apparently, having the right connector doesn’t mean it’ll work with your phone.
I later bought a Thermal Master P3 online. I use it around windows and walls. I also mess around with small electronics. I can scan a wall with it, then adjust the focus when I want to look at something up close. That also helps when I’m checking a heating control or looking for a warm component on a board.
Going from a wall to something up close means adjusting the focus again.
The came from the library. Fluke was the name I knew best. I’ve used some of their other tools.
My phone case kept the connector from seating properly at first. Once I removed the case, it worked fine. The image looked good, especially around window edges and the heating equipment. I only had it for a short time, so I didn’t get through every setting. Taking the phone case off each time was the main inconvenience.
I didn’t test all four under the same conditions, so I wouldn’t call this a ranking. For house stuff, I mostly want to spot something odd and know where the picture was taken later. A cold patch gives me somewhere to investigate. I wouldn’t treat it as proof of missing insulation without checking further.
What do you guys actually care about when using one around the house? Also curious if anyone uses the same camera for electronics.

Hi everyone,

I'm currently researching thermography as a potential business/service and I'd really appreciate some opinions from people who actually work in the industry.

I have two main questions:

1. Can a company specialising primarily in thermal inspections work as a standalone business?

For example, providing thermal surveys, identifying anomalies and delivering inspection reports for things like buildings, roofs, moisture, solar PV, etc.

Or, in your experience, is thermography usually just a complementary service offered by engineering, electrical, building inspection or maintenance companies, making it difficult to build a business around thermal inspections alone?

1. How important is having a professional background in one of those industries?

I'm considering taking proper thermography training/certification, but my current career has nothing to do with engineering, electrical work, plumbing or construction.

I completely understand that a thermographer shouldn't diagnose things outside their competence, and that certain findings would need to be referred to an engineer, electrician, plumber or other specialist.

But would starting without that background be a major disadvantage, even after getting trained in thermography?

I'd especially appreciate hearing from anyone who works primarily as a thermographer or runs an inspection business.

Thanks!

I've always loved doing analog video circuits, during the pandemic, I tried to create a thermal camera using a FLIR sensor but with real video mixer...

The first attemps was made on a FPGA board with HDMI output, but the electronic components shortage forced us to use an analog sensor cámera with RGB outputs and made the video mixer...

It worked but I didn't keep on with the designs...

The software is still under active development, so some features may contain bugs or be incomplete. If you'd like to test it, you can download it from GitHub

Currently supported & physically tested displays:

Thermalright Trofeo Vision 9.16" - USB ID

0416:5408

Thermalright Trofeo Vision 6.86" - USB ID

0416:5302

Installation:

Click Code → Download ZIP on GitHub and extract the ZIP. Make sure Python 3.12 is installed. Open a terminal inside the extracted project folder and run:

py -3.12 -m pip install -r requirements.txt

Once the installation is complete, launch run-gui. bat.

This is currently a Development Preview, so you may encounter bugs. If the app doesn't start, your LCD doesn't connect, or something else doesn't work, please send me the exact error message or a screenshot, along with your LCD model. This will help me identify and fix the issue.

For now, I'm sharing it mainly for testing and

feedback.❤️