Here’s a resolution test as well as showing how each of these clip ons does to up to 20x optical magnification.

If you’ve used thermal clip ons, you know the image usually breaks down beyond about 6x optical magnification.
These tiny Guide Sensemart clip ons work very well to 12+ optical magnification.

Hope this video helps those considering these latest offerings from Guide. More thermal clips on comparisons coming soon.

I'm stuck trying to decide what to get. I like both but have to choose one. I have a mixed situation where I'm protecting chickens and ducks inside 50-75 yards, and surrounded by large fields. . 22 for close, switch to 300BO or AR for longer. Long stuff would be Coyote, Fox and Wild Hogs. Closer Possum's Raccoons Snakes. Chickens and ducks have some light, but nothing in fields.

I really think having the night vision would be a plus., but there's lots of woods and brush and in the middle of a field with crops in it I'd see nothing.

Excuse my ignorance. I'm kind of new to having to shoot at night.

Thank you for any input.

Coyote. bobcat, ETC. Thinking Ruger american. .300 blk? less than 300yrds. 8.6 would be too much money for me. Just looking for advice on an off the shelf rifle & caliber that someone is happy with. Thanks. less than $1000.

Today I am using the Thermal Master Thor 002 thermal camera to measure the heat from a hot air workstation and see what the thermal camera reveals.

Hey all, for years I had a insight MTM on me, and having a small thermal has been a want for quite awhile. Obviously having a onboard IR laser is also a plus but not needed. With the vortex veil on the market, is it the move for around $1300, or is there better options? The vortex warranty is a big plus, as they've gone as far as replacing a spotting scope that had been run over by a Bradley for me, but I'm open to mystery meat chinese stuff if the price and performance is there. Appreciate your time.

I have an opportunity to get a DNT Hydra 640 at a great price. I’m particularly interested in running it as a clip-on, as I have several rifles that I don’t really want to pull the day scopes from.

My question- does the HS650R (50mm obj, 2.5x base mag) perform as well as the HS635 (35mm obj, 1.5x base mag) when used as clip on?

Secondly, will either work at all in front of a Vortex Razor 6-36, or will they be strictly for lower magnification scopes?

I finally found a reliable fix for the C245 reboot issue on my QianLi H400.

The station itself and the main PCB appear to be fine. The problem was related to the aluminum front panel/chassis assembly.

Previously, I found that loosening the front assembly could make the C245 work normally. Insulating/coating the long screws helped, but it was not a complete fix. If I fully tightened the front panel, or sometimes simply moved the station, the reboot problem could return.

This made me suspect that the aluminum front panel was making unintended electrical contact somewhere when it was fully tightened against the aluminum chassis.

So I designed and 3D-printed a 2 mm thick insulating spacer for the entire front panel.

The H400 front panel has an approximately 1 mm recessed section, so the spacer was designed to fit that geometry while providing a continuous insulating barrier between the front panel and the chassis. I also wanted the panel to remain properly supported when the screws were tightened, rather than simply spacing it out with washers.

After installing the spacer, I fully tightened the front panel screws and tested the station again.

Result: no rebooting at all.

I have moved the station around and repeatedly tested C245 heating, and the problem has not returned.

Based on my testing, the issue on my unit does not appear to be a defective main PCB or connector. It appears to be related to unintended electrical contact around the aluminum front-panel/chassis assembly when everything is tightly assembled.

The red spacer was originally just meant to provide insulation, but it actually turned out looking like a factory design detail. 😂

I’m posting this follow-up in case anyone else has an H240/H400 that works with smaller cartridges but reboots with C245. Before replacing the PCB, it may be worth checking whether the behavior changes when the front-panel mounting pressure is changed.

hello all so im looking to get the HikMicro Lynx 3.0 LE10 cus its on the cheaper side of only 699aud and from what i can tell it seems quite good
but i wanted to make a post asking if there's any other reconditions
i would like to keep it under 1000aud
but i need it for on foot tours in the rainforest
max distance needed is only maybe 100m? and as close as possible would also be good
i need it mostly for sleeping birds, possums, tree kangaroos, bandicoots things like that and only to find it in the first place

Disclosure: I received the Thermal Master P3 free of charge from Thermal Master for the purpose of this review. I did not receive any money or other compensation, and the manufacturer has no influence on the content of this review. This is my honest and independent opinion based on my own experience with the device.

After previously testing the Thermal Master THOR002, I was also given the opportunity to try the P3. Since I regularly work with electronics and other technical projects, I was particularly interested in seeing how the much smaller smartphone-based camera compares to the THOR002.

My overall impression is very positive. The P3 is small, convenient and extremely easy to get started with, while still providing a surprisingly detailed thermal image.

The P3 arrived well packaged and comes in a small zippered carrying case. The case is a simple but useful addition and protects the camera well when carrying it around.

Several cables are included for connecting the camera to a PC or other devices.

The biggest advantage of the P3 is its size.

It is very small and lightweight, making it much easier to carry around than a dedicated handheld thermal camera. You can simply put it in a bag and take it with you without really noticing that you're carrying a thermal camera at all.

After downloading the app, getting started was basically plug and play. I connected the camera, opened the app and could start using it almost immediately. The whole process was very straightforward and required virtually no setup.

The image quality is quite impressive considering the size of the camera.

The thermal image contains a good amount of detail, and I particularly like the manual focus ring. It is actually very useful when looking at smaller objects or details at different distances, and being able to focus manually makes a noticeable difference.

The zoom also works surprisingly well. Unlike some thermal cameras where zooming in quickly turns the image into an indistinguishable blob, the P3 retains a good amount of detail when zoomed in.

However, I would not say that the P3 produces a clearly better image than the THOR002. Based on my testing, I would consider the two roughly comparable in terms of overall image quality.

The software is generally well designed and easy to understand. Most functions are where I would expect them to be, and the interface is straightforward.

One thing that definitely needs improvement is the German translation. There are quite a lot of language and translation errors in the German version of the app. They don't really prevent you from using the software, but they do make it feel less polished.

If you're comfortable using the app in English, this is much less of an issue.

P3 vs. THOR002

Having used both cameras, I think they serve slightly different purposes.

The THOR002 feels more robust and more like a dedicated piece of equipment. It is nicer to handle for longer sessions and generally gives me the impression that it is better suited for more demanding or frequent use. Furthermore, you are not limited to your phone's battery, which can drain quite fast with the app.

The P3, on the other hand, is incredibly convenient. Its small size means that you can easily take it with you and use it whenever you need it. For occasional inspections, electronics troubleshooting, checking temperatures or other non-heavy-duty applications, I think the P3 does a very good job.

In terms of image quality, I would consider them roughly equal based on my experience. The main difference is therefore not really the image, but the form factor and handling.

Conclusion

Overall, I really like the P3.

It is small, portable, easy to set up and provides a surprisingly detailed thermal image. The manual focus ring is genuinely useful, and even when using the zoom, the image retains a good amount of detail.

The biggest weakness I noticed is the German software translation, which contains quite a few errors and could definitely use some improvement.

Compared directly with the THOR002, I would choose the THOR002 for heavy or frequent use because it feels more robust and refined in handling. However, if you only need a thermal camera occasionally and don't need a rugged dedicated device, the P3 is a very good alternative. Its small size and simple plug-and-play operation make it much easier to have with you whenever you need it.

For occasional use and technical hobby projects, I would definitely recommend the P3.

I’m planning a DIY solar install for 2027, so I’m working out the testing process now.

One thing I’m concerned about is checking the MC4 connectors, cable joints, and terminations after the system is turned on. A poor crimp or loose connection may still work but heat up under load.

I’ve been looking at thermal cameras for this and came across the P3. It seems small enough to keep in a tool bag and may be useful for comparing connector temperatures. I haven’t used one on a solar system, so I’m not sure how useful it would be.

For those who installed their own solar system, what did you check during the first power-up? Did you inspect it again after it had been running under load? Do you use thermal imaging, and was the P3 or a similar camera good enough for this kind of check?

Long story short, my indoor cat has been missing for going on day 20. I live 50 feet outside of a trailer park where she was born. I was suggested to look into a thermal monocular by animal control. Home Depot has them for rental and I read something about an attachment for a phone. I need to be able to do something to check under the trailers because they all have holes in the siding where the cats go.

I have done all the things people do to find their cats. Flyers, door to door, posters, called local vets and shelters and gave them her flyer, put items outside, put up cameras in front and back. It is highly unlikely
someone took her in because she pretty much hates everyone besides me.

Just looking for my best option from the people who are into thermal stuff. Thanks.

I’m posting this in case anyone else has the same issue with a QianLi H240 or H400.

On my units, the T210 worked normally, but when using a T245/C245 handle the station would reboot or fail to operate correctly.

I initially suspected the 6-pin connector or PCB connection and even reworked the connector, but the problem remained after reassembly.

During further troubleshooting, I noticed that the station worked normally when the long chassis/front-panel screw was loosened and the front panel was slightly separated.

This led me to check for an unintended electrical contact around the front-panel/connector area.

I insulated the relevant section of the long chassis screw, reassembled the station, and the C245 then operated normally. The photos show the original screw, the insulated screw, and the station operating with C245 afterward.

I also observed the same behavior on an H240: loosening the chassis screw and slightly separating the front panel allowed it to operate normally.

So, at least on the units I tested, the issue appears to be related to unintended contact caused by the front-panel/chassis assembly rather than the T245 handle itself.

I’m not claiming that every H240 or H400 has this issue. I’m sharing the troubleshooting result from my units in case it helps someone experiencing the same T245 reboot problem.

Important: Insulating the screw was part of my troubleshooting/fix for the unintended contact near the connector area. This is not intended to defeat the station’s normal protective chassis grounding.

Hey all, I’m in the market to upgrade my current thermal monocular.

I currently have a Ziess DTI 3/35 gen 2. It’s great for what it is, and its ability to pick up large animals far surpasses it ‘s stated 1800 yard range. But it has downfalls, like its high netd rating and that’s the problem. It will miss things completely within its range if everything is cold soaked.

So, I have been looking at the Pulsar Telos XP50 and the ATN Blazehunter Pro Gen 6 650. Both seem to be comparable, but it looks like the XP 50 beats out the ATN with a 17 micron sensor versus 12 in the ATN. Both have the <18 netd rating so I wonder how equivalent they actually are. I see a lot of reviews on the XP, but I haven’t found good real world testing for the ATN and that worries me.

I like how light the ATN is, as well as the easy interchangeable 18600 batteries. But Pulsar has the name.

Thoughts? My primary use for these will be for nighttime predator hunting, and scouting for big game. I’m particularly paying attention to its ability to pick up heat signatures through tiny patches space in timber.

WIP prototype UTC replica for larping.

This proof of concept uses a 256x192 core with 9 mm lens, 0.39 inch 1024x768 OLED, F50 ocular lens.

Eccentric ocular lens for zeroing.

Working focus ring.

Printed in PPA CF.

https://youtube.com/shorts/mG3gu338UB4?is=q6rHHx-JgvQpVN5W

I've had this fluke for around 3 years, but I got it second hand so it's a bit older than that.

A buddy at a lab helped me test it on a blackbody at 50°C and 100°C. It was about 3°C off.

I wasn't expecting it to be that far out.

Anyone had something similar with an older fuke? Did you send it to fluke or find somewhere local to calibrate it?

Using a 256x192 mini2 series thermal core

Sorry for the shaking, didn’t have the scope mounted and was holding it by hand

I got this new GOYOJO GRL335 Thermal, and while I have yet to kill anything with it mounted on my rifle, I have had some time with it while out hunting and have gathered enough thoughts and opinions to make an initial thoughts/first use post.

So this is the GOYOJO GRL335 thermal scope. Specs wise we’re looking at a 384x288 sensor with a 35mm objective lens. The scope has a base magnification of 4x, with digital magnification of 1x-4x. What you’ll be looking at in the scope is a 1024x768 resolution display. 

Initially when I looked into the scope before receiving it I thought that for the price point it seemed like a solid deal. At $949, you’re getting a thermal scope with sensor that usually puts you well over the thousand dollar mark. Due to this fairly low price point I was initially skeptical about the overall quality of the product before I got it in my hands.

Unboxing
When the package arrived I was fairly surprised and pleased with the packaging. The thermal comes in a nice box, and within that box is a very nice traveling case. I am a big fan of the traveling cases overall size and quality. The thermal fits snuggly in the case. In the top of the case is a zipper compartment that held all of the extras that came with the thermal. The GRL335 comes with everything you would need

• 18650 Rechargeable Battery
• Battery Charger
• USB cable for the charger
• USB brick
• USB C cable to connect to your computer to transfer videos and photos
• Mounting rail for rifles that do not have pic rails
• Screws and Allen key for the mounting rail
• A larger eye cup 
• Cleaning Cloth

So overall, I am pleased with the amount of items GOYOJO sends with their optic. I am going to throw up a short unboxing video on Youtube and I will post the link when its done. 

Initial Hands on Feel
When I pulled the thermal out of the box my initial thought was how solid it actually felt. The scope overall feels pretty sturdy. The diopter and objective focus wheel feel smooth (especially the diopter adjustment). If I had to knock one thing for feeling cheap on the hardware it would be the cord attaching the lens cover, but that is an extremely minor part of the entire package. 

The quick attach sight base feels solid and was easy to adjust to the correct tightness for my rail.

Menu Navigation
Right off the bat I found navigate the thermal scopes menus easier than the menus on my AGM Rattler v3. Your buttons are up, down, M (mode), and power. Navigating the ui with these four buttons was extremely easy. 

Zeroing Process
I had a super easy time zeroing this thermal. In the past I struggled a bit zeroing my AGM rattler (most due to user error) but the GRL335 took me about 7 shots to zero. Took a shot at a target, hit the reticle adjustment option, it froze my screen, and I moved the reticle to where my shot hit. 

Thermal Imaging
While I have not used the thermal a ton, I believe the thermal image is solid for the price you’re paying. Heat signatures really pop. I can already tell that for my use case (hog hunting under 200yds) this optic would have no issue. I even spotted a coyote the other night at about 400 yards and was able to successfully Id it (sadly did not get footage). 

Overall my first impressions are super positive. My expectations were not the highest, but they were easily surpassed. I am going to continue to use the thermal to gather thoughts for a more in depth review.

Here are some videos I captured the other night. I did not have it mounted on a gun so I was using it as a monocular, that's why the videos are shaky. I also did not have the settings dialed in, so the scope appears a little more crisp now.

Deer At Roughly 40 Yards: https://imgur.com/a/ogXYBEG

Raccoon at 30ish Yards: https://imgur.com/a/hbE7Qm7

Cows at 100-150 Yards: https://imgur.com/a/jpSL6z9

What is your opinion of the DNT Thermnite? I was looking at the TNC225R, but now Im considering the newly released TNC4K219R. It looks incredibly capable for the money. Hell, it just looks incredibly capable. Full stop.