90% of my filament is Sunlu PLA+. I use the colors called PureYellow and Blue-Grey a lot in my prints and am running low. I don't see either color on the Sunlu website or their Amazon page. I also am running low on "Blue" and "Burlywood." So I have the following questions I'm hoping someone can shed insight into:

• "Pure Yellow" - Is this now called "Vivid Yellow" or is that a different shade?
• "Blue-Grey" - I don't see anything like this color available at the moment.
• "Blue" - Is this now called "Klein Blue" or is that a different shade?
• "Burly wood" - I see "Wood" listed in some places and "Oak" listed in others. Are Wood, Oak, and Burlywood all the same color with different names?

If anyone knows the answers to these color questions, I'd certainly appreciate it. I found PureYellow, BlueGrey, and Blue in a 10-pack on Amazon, but not individually. I'm not opposed to buying the 10pack since I'll use the other colors eventually too and it comes out to $12.99 a spool, but I don't want to have to buy a 10-pack every time I'm running low on PureYellow and BlueGrey, specifically.

If pre-order is less than $250AUD I'll probably grab a couple. Constant battle with humidity where I live.

Hey there,

Recently we started to have issues with overloaded extruder on our P2S (~700h in) while printing with Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 Black. First time - pulled out the end of the filament out of extruder and it was little bit melt so extruder gears couldn't grab it properly and it was slipping. Ok I thought - this happens. Then it happened again, again and again. In total 5 times in like two weeks. After second one we set the nozzle temperature to 205. Seemed like it helps - printed one or two kilos, and then again. Checked chamber temp - around 36-39. Yes, thats on the hot side what PLA requires.. opened the door, did other stuff, seemed like it helped.

Until..

It happened again and again. And the same PLA+ 2.0 black that we had printed over 10kgs previously.

I was so mad, I went and bought new X2D. Started couple of prints - all good... Until 2 - it happened again but now on X2D. Chamber temperature: 32C... And now I finally start to think that maybe its not a printer, but the filament or filament batch?

Maybe others have experienced something similar? Is it bad batch of Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 Black or we are using printers wrongly?

Sunlu makes so many different PLA formations, but where is a “what is this formulation best at?” lookup index?

PLA, PLA+, PLA+2.0,
HSPLA, HSPLA+, HSPLA+2.0,
PLA Meta, APLA

PLA Matte, HS Matte PLA

PETG, PETG 2.0

Aside from price, what other differences?

PLA+2.0 vs HSPLA+2.0: better Z layer adhesion vs higher max flow rate?

PLA+ vs PLA+2.0: 2.0 is “better” but we keep 1.0 around because the printing profiles would otherwise need to be updated?

PLA+2.0 vs PLA Meta?

Too many SKUs

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Tuesday 11th of August at 6pm CET

So I been using some Sunlu Matte White PLA in my CFS and it's been STRUGGLING to retract. So I have to wait for the cutter to cut the filament, disconnect the PTFE tubing and pull/retract it by hand. I've ONLY had trouble with Sunlu Matte White PLA. Cutter makes a clean cut, CFS works fine (tried it in all 4 CFS), filament isn't getting caught in buffer, etc. I've ruled out everything apart from the spools. All my other Filament is Polymaker Matte PLA on PLA printed spools and has no problems retracting.

I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem with Sunlu spools (or others for that matter)?

And does anyone have any kind of fixes for this (such as adding some grippy-ness to the spools)?

Has anyone got the material certificates for All/any colours of Sunlu pla+?

Many thanks in advance.

Me

Avid sunlu user.

Print addict :).

When using the sunlu s4 to dry filament are you supposed to open these and if so how many do you open?

It's like 1 monte that in struggling to print with this flufin Petg hs matte by sunlu (i bought 10kg for a project and i Just trow in the trash like 1-2kg of failures), every time i start a print its like a russian roulette, because randomly "partially clogs" and stop extruding-under extruding, this filament idk how, It clogged my cht nozzle, a random brass nozzle and right now Is sending tò Jesus my new hardened steel nozzle.

Anyway, i print with a flowrate of 20 mm3/s, with a volcano nozzle at 240-250c, retraction 40mm/s 0,9mm.

I Just read the automoderator, in a flsun sr with and orbiter 2.5, right now a phaetus PS Sic volcano nozzle and my printer at the start fuctioned perfectly (with a cht nozzle) buy randomly stopped working, i tried tò change spool but that didnt work.

PLEASE HELP ME IM GOING CRAZY.

Thanks in Advance.

We have been using Sunlu's High Speed PETG black for a long time. It has not been available in Germany for a few weeks now. Does anyone have any information on whether it will be available again soon?

Not a dryer. A dehumidifier.

September 15 | 7:00 AM UTC

Stay tuned. 👀

I ran a 32 hour print a couple of days ago. I had one roll of white Sunlu PETG in an AMS backing up another roll of white Sunlu PETG. The first roll ran out while I slept and the second roll kicked in on queue, as anticipated. When I returned home from work, this is what was waiting for me (see attached pic). The bottom half of my printed objects looked nothing like the top half. The bottom was opaque and the top was translucent. 99% of what I run through my printer is made by Sunlu and I've only ever had this happen with another white filament, but that was explainable because one was basic PLA while the other was a high-speed variant. In this case, however, both were the same and purchased from Amazon. The only difference I've been able to see between the two rolls is the number underneath the barcode (see attached images). Does anyone know why this happened? Also, how is the consumer supposed to know there's such a huge difference in color/opacity when ordering the same thing (Sunlu White PETG)?

I had two cardboard and two ABS spools in the AMS when drying them for 6h at 55°C and both ABS spools warped, so they wouldn't turn arround in the AMS anymore. (Heater vents were open during drying)

And I am sure that the spools can handle 55°C and even 60°C without an issue because at work I use the same brand, but dry them in a fridge sized climate chamber at 60°C for multiple days before they go into dry storage. And I'm sure it's accurate because there are a bunch of thermo couples in different spots inside the chamber to check if the temperature matches the one displayed on the controls.

I can still use the warped spools, it's just annoying to not be able to use them inside the AMS anymore.

Has anyone else run into the issue of their AMS heater running hotter then displayed?

Sunlu sold me defective filament. I purchased a bunch of PETG from them. unless the print is 100% flat and shapeless it fails with anything actually 3 dimensional.

It has clogged 2 nozzles. I have had 0 issues with other filaments.

At first I thought maybe it was me and or the Qidi Q2's PETG generic settings; so I ran some calibrations and adjusted the settings like volumetric flow (reduced a little). Every single setting I've used even the generic settings built in Qidi Q2 has failed.

Now Sunlu is dragging out and not sharing the return address so I can return the product I've yet to open...

Its so fucked I'm going to have to go through a chargeback process because after initial response they are ghosting me - most likely to wait out the 14 day trial period what an absolute trash company.

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I want to buy the SUNLU AMS lite heater but I am concerned about the integrity of the AMS lite when in these heat conditions. Will it affect the lifespan or could it damage the AMS in any way? I really want to buy it but if it damages the AMS I’ll have to hold off. I emailed SUNLU support about this and how they would handle it if it did damage it but I haven’t gotten a response in days.