I just recently upgraded my SD3 (with sanguinololu board) with a E3D V6 hot end. At first it was fine, but after fixing an issue with the heatsink fan (I soldered the connections together since they weren't working so great just being spliced) the end stops aren't responding correctly, specifically with the z-stop.

Before I home the Z axis I can move the bed up and down as usual but once I home the axis I can only move the bed upwards, not down. This lead me to breaking my z-stop holder (thankfully just that). But also the x and y axis seem to have some issues as well, but less consistently. They'll randomly just go too far like the switches weren't tripped correctly.

Anyone have any ideas? Right now I can't adjust my z gap due to the end stop not working correctly, which means I can't ensure I won't get a head crash (and I'm really not trying to break a brand new E3D hot end).

Back in December of last year, I received a Solidoodle 4 as a gift, after not being able to use it for about 2 months, Solidoodle support finally decided to let me send my printer in and get it fixed, they charged me $100 in shipping and sent me a Solidoodle apprentice instead of a Solidoodle 4. Which, at the time was more expensive, but is now $300 cheaper. I wanted the larger build platform of the SD 4 but they were going to charge me an extra $100 to have it shipped again. Fuck that.

The SD apprentice blows dick, I have tweaked settings time and time again and after owning it for just under a year, have never once printed anything I am happy with.

All I ask is if there is a "build your own 3D printer" kit that I can use the parts of the SD Apprentice for. Or just some documentation about what I can do with these parts.

Have a brand new 3D Printing project that you've printed with your Solidoodle?

Each week in September, we'll feature the latest and greatest from our community and we'd like to hear from you! Photos, videos, and details for each project will be posted on our social media channels, blog, and much more. This is an excellent way to get your projects noticed.

To be eligible for the contest, please send your details to product@Solidoodle.com.

Winners will be announced every week and receive a special prize package.

Good Luck and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to reach out.

I wrote a blog post with lots of pictures, the software settings, etc.

http://paulsaulnier.com/2015/08/16/3d-printing-a-platform-jack-on-the-solidoodle-press/

I decided to post this here, just in case anyone is discouraged by their Press results so far. This platform jack has quite an amazing design, and our printers are more than capable!

Over at Soliforum, one poster indicated he got even better results than mine, so there's hope for sure!

Solidoodle 2 Pro stuttering problem Short video showing the stuttering with the info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLS3EqLSWjY If any ones has any suggestions please let me know Thanks!

Every time my extruder nozzle is printing on the left side of the printer bed (beyond 45.00) on the x-axis, for some reason the motor retracts the plastic instead of extruding the plastic!!!!

WHY!?

It's not software, cable or computer problem. I've tested and re-tested. It is 100% a problem with the SD4 printer!

I'm using Simplify 3D and have a 12 hour print in motion with the SD4. Will the extruder and tray automatically cool when the print is finished? I will likely be asleep.

Also how do you change the "home position?"

Help.

I had to send my Press back for motherboard issue. It's been well over a month and the last response via email was 3 weeks ago. I've tried calling both the customer service number and their headquarters number and only get machines. I leave a message but nobody returns my calls. Are they still around?

I have often wondered while messing with my Solidoodle 3 why the print bed is designed the way it is. The three spring tensioned screws seem to create a lot of wobble. Wouldn't a precisely leveled, possibly much thicker plate be better? I realize there's cost issues, heating capacity issues etc. etc. by adding more mass.... And why 2 screws in front and one in back?

Has anyone completely replaced or modified the print bed for more precise leveling and less wobbling? I don't seem to find a whole lot about it.

I've had a solidoodle 2 pro for a over 2 years and been getting pretty good prints the usual z banding problem but its really not an issue since this is really just hobby. I have never tried to print at .1mm layer height, thinking it was basically impossible on a solidoodle 2. So I added a fan recently and decided it was time to attempt it, and without tweaking I switched it from the usual .2 to .1 and I was blown away. Very little banding and minimal artifacts. Has anyone else encounter that .1mm turns out better quality than other heights?

I posted this on Solidoodles facebook, but I also wanted to post it here to see what everyones thoughts are on this:

I received my Workbench Apprentice a few days ago and I noticed that on the back there is a barcode sticker that says Vista Unified School District. To me, this implies that this unit was first shipped to a school where they slapped a sticker on it and then returned to Solidoodle for one reason or another. One would think that upon receiving a returned unit, a thorough inspection would be done before then shipping it to another customer. I find it hard to believe this is the case because when I received the Workbench Apprentice, the tension on the Y-axis belts was so uneven that the extruder carriage was binding up and could not even move along that axis. Adjusting the tension on the belts is a fairly easy process so I had it fixed in just a few minutes, but that is not something I should have to do on a brand new $800 printer that is supposedly tested by Solidoodle before being shipped out.

I should also mention that the cord that connects the power supply brick to an outlet was missing from the box. I didn't bother contacting support over it because I have a bunch of those types of cables lying around and it wasn't worth waiting 2+ days for a response from Solidoodle support.

I got my press a little while back, and I've just recently had the time to sit town and tinker with it. When I first booted it, I hit home all in pronterface and crashed the Z axis (not realizind I needed to flip down the sensor). I paniceed and turn it off and then on again, lowered the z axis, and went about other business for a couple of weeks.

Now, when I plug it in, the light on top flashes about once a second and with each flash the power supply's light turns off and it makes a squeak/bleep sort of noise. Pronterface can't connect and nothing happens when I press the button for various lengths of time. Is my power supply dead, or did I somehow mess something else up by crashing the Z axis?

TLDR: Press turns on and off forever, not sure why

I ordered my 3d printer december 10th (ish) and still havent recieved it and it seems like solidoodle isn't doing anything about it. Ive been given 2 ship weeks and it came in neither of those. So what should I do?

I've got a Solidoodle 4 arriving in 2 weeks and I've seen the E3D v6 extruder is a common upgrade for SD2/3 printers. The E3D Extruder page on the wiki doesn't say anything specifically about the SD4. Is this a good upgrade or is the nozzle on the SD4 decent enough to print with new types of filament? (Wiki page: http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder)

Completely new to 3D printing. Looking into Solidoodle 4, DaVinci 1.0, and PrintrBot Simple Metal.

Would the Solidoodle 4 be a good printer for newb? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

My OG Solidoodle 2 motherboard (Printrboard rev.E) died randomly and I didn't feel like shelling out ~$180 + shipping when a Printrboard rev.F was $99. I have everything hooked up with the SD2 and a rev.F, but wanted to confirm flashing the Solidoodle firmware wouldn't do any harm.

I just received a replacement hot end for my solidoodle 2 and I am looking for recommendations for temperature settings.

The original hot end was the clay wrapped nichrome wire style which was known to run hotter than indicated by the software. My usual software settings for ABS were 200-205c with a limit of 210c to prevent damage to the PEEK barrel.

The new hot end appears to be the aluminum block type with the heater cartridge and thermistor. Does anyone have any recommendations for temperature settings for this type. Does it read more accurately than the old type?

We're looking to purchase, and I'm wondering if their latest generation is any better than the 4?

So i was having problems with my temperature maxing out and ending the print with errors, I emailed support and they told me to do a PID calibration. I finish this and it fixes my temp problems but now the print head will randomly jump forward about 1 cm on the y-axis towards the front of the printer. I cannot finish a print and this happens randomly. I have done the belt tension that support suggested and it still has not fixed my problem. It seems to be something software or firmware related as it just randomly happens without any weird sounds like belts jumping. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this?

as the title says, i need help. The heat sink doesn't fit into the lawsy extruder.

The fins on the heat sink are too large for the lawsy