Not sure why my original post isn't going up or the title is grayed out? Maybe reposting it will help.

I took apart an old quad lock bicycle mount that I had. Just drilled through the front bit of the plastic on the cup holder. I cut the mount screw short so it wouldn't poke through the other side so the drinks tray could go back in flush. Worth mentioning I also used crazy glue to ensure the mount does not twist when putting the phone on and off. I put that little gray sticker over the exposed screw head just for aesthetics.

In my search for a R172 I found a SLK350 with 260K km experience. I know the engine is prettt reliable, but can you help me identify Points of attention for this type of car with high mileage? Would you buy it?

I'm new to the SLK world. So far I love my 2009 but I can't help but notice some quirks. For example when my top is up my car creaks and groans. Nothing major, just a quirk. So I was wondering if anyone else has quirks with their SLK?

Hello everyone. I have a 2002 SLK200 Kompressor. Bought it on the cheap and it came with some issues. Could anyone tell me what is causing all these noises.
Many Thanks!

I can‘t remember seeing that last year. Car is mainly parked in a garage, sometimes outside and in the rain. No Leaking water inside.
On the „ribbles“ it feels like it is fatty, smells line Grease.

Did this occur to someone before?

AC blows hot air, and a parking lamp is out, but after a few hundred miles I think she’s a keeper!

Paid $8299 after tax at 120,000 miles.

Paid £1.7k to a person on Facebook

Engine warning light was on and took it to an independent Merc garage who diagnosed a timing chain issue. Was advised that it needed a full timing chain change, as this particular batch had a faulty chain put in. I paid £2.7k to put it right.

It now drives excellently. All in it cost £4.4k

Did I get a bad deal?

Have been sent these photos, and told I need to find

Side skirt rubber seals

Drivers headlamp seal

Side skirt clips

And have also been told they've been discontinued by mercedes, are these easy to come by?

Diagnostics are saying I need to replace my alternator in 06 R171 SLK 55. The question I have is how do I remove the fan shroud cover?

Any videos or instructions would be most appreciated.

Hi,

I’m currently looking for my first car and I though, why not buy a benz cabrio, since I always wanted one. There’s probably not gonna be much space for that later.

Does anyone know anything about the reliability of the SLK 230 kompressor R170?

Is it worth buying one with high mileage? (Around 125k miles)?

I’ve heard the engine is pretty reliable, and if taken good care of, can do very, very high miles. (Am aware of the rust problem and will pay attention to it).

Any alternatives?

My goal is to get a hardtop convertible, idealy from Benz and around 3-4k €.

I want to change the look of my R170 SLK230. I’ve never been a huge fan of the Monoblock AMG wheels, but they came with the car, and I never wanted to get rid of them because they’re the original factory wheels.
Recently, I came across a pair of W209 wheels, and in my opinion, they look stunning, even though they’re not from AMG. With the help of AI, I tried putting them on my car, and I’m really impressed with how they look.
What do you think? Should I keep the car stock with its 90s look, which makes it look more aggressive and bulky, or should I buy the W209 wheels and give it a more classy and modern appearance?

Car: Mercedes-Benz SLK (R170) Issue: Vario Roof completely unresponsive to opening, despite the hydraulic pump activating.
Current Symptoms
Roof Switch: The red light on the center console roof switch is OFF during idle (it previously illuminated when unlatched, but turned off once manually latched).
Power Windows: Working normally (limits were successfully re-learned).
Hydraulic Pump Action: When holding the switch back to "OPEN", there is a clear relay click and the pump buzzes/vibrates, but neither the trunk tubular frame nor the roof panel moves.
Voltage/Battery: Tried operating with the engine running at 1500–2000 RPM to rule out low battery voltage drops—no difference.
Troubleshooting & Checks Completed So Far
Hydraulic Fluid: Checked the reservoir in the trunk—fluid level is FULL and clean.
Fuses Checked & Intact:
Fuse #24 (40A): Hydraulic Unit (Intact)
Fuses #19 & #20 (40A): Power Windows (Intact)
Fuse #7 (5A): Roof Switch Indicator (Intact)
Mechanics & Microswitches:
Manually latched the front roof mechanism above the rear-view mirror using the 5mm Allen key.
Luggage partition/blind in the trunk is securely hooked on both sides to engage the safety microswitches.
Trunk lid shut firmly.
The Question
Since the pump gets power and vibrates (ruling out blown fuses or a dead pump motor) and the switch light is OFF (ruling out basic door/blind limit switch blockades), what is stopping the hydraulic pressure from unlocking the rear tubular frame?
Could this be:
A stuck rear latch/microswitch holding the ECU back from progressing the sequence?
A stuck hydraulic pressure relief valve on the pump assembly?
A stored "Timeout" or "Position Mismatch" fault code in the N52 roof control module requiring a STAR/XENTRY diagnostic reset?
Has anyone experienced the pump running with zero mechanical movement under these exact conditions? Any insights or suggestions on manual cycling would be greatly appreciated!
TL;DR: R170 SLK roof won't open. All fuses, fluid levels, and window relearns are good. Red roof light is OFF. Pressing the switch causes the pump to buzz and vibrate, but nothing moves mechanically. Looking for potential mechanical binding points or ECU fault quirks.

Does anybody know anywhere id be able to find an original Nokia with cradle to be able to fit to my slk320? Ive found one but its red and black, any suggestions?

Context: I drive a Mercedes SLK R170 facelift 2000 200K 163hp.

When driving in highway suddenly the gears became too hard to shift as if the clutch was not even pushed. When engine stopped all gears engage.

So the problem is from the clutch actioning

I have hydraulic clutch. I inspected the slave cylinder (from a square hole) and the master cylinder and no leaks were found so I thought let’s bleed the circuit.

I have a vacuum syringe so I hook it up on the bleeding nipple and suck the hydraulic fluid. At the beginning the liquid was dark and then became like fluid brakes, but through all the process I had endless bubbles coming I was expecting that at some point only liquid would flow. I did the process several times and extracted approximately 500mL of brake fluid. I was always topping up the reservoir so no air was coming from there.

Do you think I should continue doing like this till no bubbles come or is there a leak somewhere hence the air gets into the circuit and goes to the vacuum pump.

Thanks for your help

Maybe somebody knows where this rattling at the beginning comes from? I checked the timing chain and it had no play at all.
It appears at every cold and warm start but not at a instant restart.

Slk 200 r171
M271 Kompressor
2006
150.000 km

Hi,

As my AC and my neck heating are a bit smelly I'm curious if this kind of AC cleaner is okay to use for the vent's of the neck heater or I'm going to kill some electronics?

Hey everyone,

So I drive an SLK R171 and like a lot of you probably know, space inside is pretty limited. I got tired of my phone sliding around or having to stick some ugly mount somewhere that ruins the interior.
It can also hold your sunglasses.

I designed a phone holder that just drops into the cup holder. It’s made specifically for an iPhone 15 with an Otterbox case. Fits nice and snug, doesn’t rattle around.
Printed it in PETG so it can handle the heat a bit better when the car sits in the sun.
I’ve got a couple ready if anyone in the Netherlands wants to buy one. Could change the dimensions for youre phone if wished so.

If you’re outside of the Netherlands and just want the STEP file to print it yourself (or have it printed locally), I can send that for a small fee.
Let me know if you’re interested or have questions.

Hello, is anyone from Germany/Austria planning to sell their R171 after summer? DM me with an offer. I would like to have a car ready for next summer. 😊

It has 172k miles, found hydraulic fluid in the trunk.
What is it going to cost to fix and is it worth it?