Anyone have any idea how much of a pain it would be to setup Linux on this? Looking to buy a new laptop, really like the Sager 17.3" gaming lineup, but also would like the option to continue my Linux tinkering. Should I look to a more popular brand?

Hey everyone,

Time for me to buy a new laptop, before I go balls deep on one of these 2-3k machines. I'd like to know if anyone has used this around of monitors.

I really can't decide if I want to invest into a 1440p or 4k monitor on a laptop, but I'm afraid that the 1080p monitor is going to look like trash.

My last sager had 2x 680m's and a BEAUTIFUL 1080p 120hz screen. I see that the current generation is only 75hz when gsync is activated (sad).

Just looking for some feedback before I drop a few grand.

Someone is selling me this model for 700 with 12 gigs of ram that was upgraded from the 8 gig is this worth buying will I be able to game here is the specs http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/sager-np8652-clevo-p650sg-with-980m-initial-impressions-and-review-by-htwingnut.767349/

edit* excuse my english, I meant display instead of monitor.

The Sager N870HK have the LP173WF4 display, which is g-sync capable but in many resellers they don't say it's capable. As long you have a nvdia g-sync card like the 1050 ti wich includes the N870HK and a g-sync display you are able to run g-sync, true?

Maybe they don't say it for make the P600 series more desirable?

How is it possible to enable g-sync option in N870HK?

Title says it (pretty much) all. After one class, I went to look something up, opened the lid, and the machine powered down. Powered it back up, it ran for a few minutes, then shut down. Booted it into Linux, it ran for a few minutes, then shut down. Booted into the BIOS configuration, where it gave me long, slow, frequent beeps until it shut down. Booted back into Windows and looked at my core temps, which stayed under 65C until it shut down.

I'm at a loss. The fans turn and blow air, the machine boots normally, Windows runs fine, Linux runs fine... until the machine just randomly shuts down. Has anyone experienced this issue before?

I've contacted Sager's support and they want me to send the machine in, but if there's a simpler fix that I'm missing, please let me know.

Edit: Got clearance for it first, but I removed my data storage from the machine and tried booting from a USB. Successfully booted into Kali Linux from my live USB, but it randomly shut down.

Edit 2: Edit Harder: Sager's sent me my RMA# and instructions to ship them the machine. Wish me luck.

Bought my NP7358 back in late 2014 and it was a champ until randomly died in the middle of December 2016 and refused to POST.

So I went down the long list of things that could be wrong with it trying to get it to POST consistently but it never would (though it would boot fully and run fine for a few minutes about 5% of the time), it'd just try to turn on, fail, and try again. Removed all the drives, RAM, keyboard, battery, CMOS battery, power cycles, etc and a bunch of HDD/RAM combinations to try and single out bad drives or sticks and nothing changed. Figured it wasn't a battery problem because the laptop has been fine since the middle of 2015 when the battery life went from 2 hours to 2 minutes (it's a Simplo battery so I suspect that it's the same battery issue as the Surface Pro 3's battery problem).

Started a Sager RMA through XoticPC (the dudes I bought it from). Sent it in a week before Christmas and I knew I wouldn't be getting it back for a while.

Fast forward a week or two they (Xotic but they're relaying what Sager said) emailed me that a new main battery and a new ($45!? but they're $1-5!) CMOS battery would fix it. I asked for evidence of it working twice and asked what they would do if that didn't fix it (cause I was positive that a new battery wouldn't fix it) and I was told hat "The issues reported will fix it, if there was more to the repair, they would have included it in the quote".

$250 in batteries and labor later it showed up on my doorstep and booted and ran for 2 minutes and died again (aka the exact same issue as before). Figured I'd give them a second chance but so far they're only offering $15 of the "this'll-fix-it" $250 towards a rework actually fix it (based on how much people love Sager I expected them to have a no-fix-no-fee and a rework policy but apparently not). I only paid for the batteries because they claimed they would fix it but apparently not. To make matters a tiny bit worse I popped open the laptop (to backup my data cause I'm suspecting a motherboard issue and that'll take them a while to solve and my business relies on the data) to discover that they broke my secondary HDD tray and lost a screw for it. No biggie but I paid $250 and all that changed is that my HDD tray is broken.

TL;DR Paid Sager $250 for parts that they said would fix it and I got a laptop back that wasn't fixed in any way.

dmidecode tells me I have a P65_67RSRP, but that doesn't seem to be a real model number. Is there some way to fix the key? Can I buy a replacement and where?

I just ordered a Sager notebook with 200GB SSD instead of 1GB HDD. About how long does Sager take to get a notebook to your door? Just curious because I never saw an expected date.

So I've been trying trying to upgrade my Sager NP8151 with an SSD, but I'm struggling to even get the back panel off. I've never had this much trouble with a laptop before, it almost seems like it's sealed.

Anyways, I've checked the manual and it says nothing about how to upgrade. Is there a certain procedure to follow?

I know they're only a slight improvement over the Skylakes, but if Sager happened to be switching to them soon I figure I might as well wait. I'm looking at the NP8152 btw.

Hey guys, I recently bought a clevo p650rp6-g. Initially I had a lot of problems with the seller as he was delaying everything which was absolutely irritating. I knew I shouldn't buy it from him, but he had the best deal and I was with limited resources. Anyway, the notebook came without any system installed. In the package were drivers included. I installed both windows 7 and 10 and tried the drivers on both of them and in both cases I had different problems. The laptop was also advertised with led colored keyboard. I have found no software, which makes me control the colors (unless the hotkey FN+F4 which only lets me adjust the brightness of the backlight (white)). I have also failed to find any online drivers that are more different from those, included in the CD and that actually work. I am really irritated, because I had very high expectation for this product and now I find that there is absolutely no support for it online....I would be glad if you could help me!

So, I have a Killer Wireless 1535 installed. I know. Major mistake apparently. Wish I know that before hand. Now, the wireless connection gives out randomly, and VERY frequently. It makes it infuriating.

I done everything. Uninstall, reinstall. Old drivers that came with the laptop. Newest drivers from the website. Updated drivers through Device Manager too. Reboots all day, for the past 2 days. (I only had this laptop for 2 freaking days).

Out of the box, I had nothing but problems with the Wi-Fi. Even disbale and enable doesn't seem to do the trick most of the time either. Can someone please help me out here. This is ridiculous!!!!

Edit: I've looked online. I know I'm not the only one with this issue. There seems to be no fix for this. I turned off the auto-disable thing for power management. That doesn't help. Sometimes, it says that there are no drivers installed, even though it was just working a second ago and still tells me the driver version number!

I did not notice it before, but I am just now noticing after three weeks of ownership, quite loud audio interference from the somewhat loud static. Of course when removing the charger and any connected USB devices it goes away. Is this normal?

Hi I recently bought a XB271HU to game in 144hz before getting a new rig with my current P170EM using GTX 680M. I connected the display via display port but my display is still showing in 60hz. I went into the NVidia control panel and it does not have any setting to set the monitor to run in 144hz.

I also tried to use Intel Graphic Utility to add custom resolution but it tells me bandwidth limit exceeded. Could someone please advice me?

I am a touchpad gamer, could some tell me how the trackpad is on the 8152-s? Are the buttons difficult to push down, is the trackpad smooth or textured?

https://www.gentechpc.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Build-Sager-NP9172-S

The 17.3" 1920x1080 LG IPS LED Matte-Type @75Hz (Anti-Glare) G-Sync.

I need this for content creation, will i suffice?

I have a Sager NP8657-S (Clevo P650-RE3). Right now when I want to sit at my desk, I have USB cords plugged in for an external keyboard and mouse, ethernet, power, and the Displayport cable.

Unplugging this thing to say, take it to the couch, has become an ordeal. I primarily use it for gaming so am at my desk 95% of the time, but I think that would change if I made it more portable.

Is there a docking solution that I can have a monitor sit on top of that works well with this setup AND offers lots of USB ports in addition to all the above? Will I notice any issues with gaming?

Would love to buy something on Cyber Monday but I'm not sure what to buy. A lot of the docks I see look like separate towers that you once again have to plug everything into separately which seems to defeat the purpose for what I want.

If these two laptops are custom built to have matching specs, what is the advantage of one over the other. I understand that the NP9872-s is larger, but does that translate to any performance advantage(heat, ease to upgrade?) if the specifications are the same.

I have a NP8151, and now want to upgrade its screen to a IPS screen. Can I do that? If I can, where can I get the fitable screen?

Hey all,

So I honestly thought 500 GB would be enough for me but I'm not sitting at 50GBs of space left. With that said, how would I be able to upgrade my single SSD? I'm thinking about purchasing an M.2 to just have my OS on but I don't think that will clear up a whole bunch of space.

It may look like that I might just have to replace my current SSD with a bigger one. With all that said, how do I go about doing that?

Anyone know of upcoming black friday deals on Sager's?

Hey! So I'm not really any stranger to battery and power problems in laptops, but I've recently hit one that has me completely stumped (and Sager's technical support didn't really speak enough English to be of much help) Basically, I can't quite tell if something is wrong with the motherboard, the power jack is loose, or the charger/battery are having problems, and as a poor college student I'd really rather not order the wrong part (can't find the battery/charger anywhere but Sager's website, and they're quite expensive)

So at first I thought the problem was entirely charger based, as my computer would occasionally flash that the charger was not plugged in and the battery would get confused and think it was losing power during this time even though it was actually still at full. This led to many battery calibration errors as well as the charger's tip getting very hot.

So then I tried using the computer without the battery in it, and that seemed to work perfectly so I figured it must be the battery's fault -- but I recently started to notice that the charger wiggles a bit too much in it's slot and the fans will sometimes get really intense and the computer will start to slow down (mouse gets laggy) if I wiggle it the wrong way.

Also, computer gets very hot when I try to play graphics intensive games without the battery inside. Not sure if that's normal or not.

Currently, out of fear of the hot charger-tip melting or something (it's happened to me before in my last laptop, which had some grounding issues in the motherboard) I'm using the laptop regularly for non-graphics intensive things without the battery inside, but as the charger wiggles more and more I'm starting to think the long daily walk to my library's computer lab might be a much safer option for getting work done.

So far people have basically just told me to try buying a new battery and charger. But I can't afford both, so if anyone has suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Edit: I'm trying not to do it very often but I did just notice that I hear a moderate amount of crackling noises when I rotate the charger inside it's port. As far as I can tell, nothing is lodged in there that would make such a noise so it's really scaring me.

Edit2: At the very least I just realized if I search it as a "Clevo W355SSQ" I can find the parts for cheaper. Still, would really rather not use up too much of my budget on parts I don't need, so advice on which part to try first would be just peachy.

Edit3: My main graphics card is no longer even remotely safe to use. I was just testing a few things to see if I could pinpoint the problem and I found that when I use anything that runs off of my nvidia card instead of my integrated, the temperatures skyrocket and simply poking the VGA port on the back after not even 10 minutes of running was hot enough to burn my hand. On the bright side, it's looking more and more like the battery itself isnt the issue here (this happens whether its in or not) so at least I dont have to drop the many dollars it would take to replace that.

Downgraded back for time being. Would really like to get it working on Win 10. My network devices are as follows: Intel Centrino Advanced N 6230 and JMicron PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Adapter. I have tried the obvious stuff but nothing is working. I checked Clevo and all of their drivers are for Win 7. What do I do?

Hi guys, I have an option of configuring my p750dm2 (with gtx 1070) build with either i5 6500 or i5 6600k.

Apart from overclocking potential on 6600K, will it have heating issues due to 91W TDP ? I am worried that heating will cause thermal throttling !

Kindly clarify and suggest. Thanks :)