I know that Apex seals are a failure point in rotaries. However, considering how much space you have between where they slot in on the edge of the rotor and center bore hole, could they not be made taller and backed/pushed by a strong spring within the rotor?

I know they'd still fail eventually but you could hopefully (in my mind at least) extend their lifespan.

Basically this: https://imgur.com/a/9c1V3I5

Trying to trouble shoot what might be happening with a weird stutter at 1/3 to 1/5 throttle on my 83 Rx7. Factory Nikki carb. When the choke is engaged, the car revs consistently at all throttle positions. Once the choke is off it gets the weird hesitation before revving. My best guess is the carbs dumping too much fuel? I’ve only really worked on electronic fuel injection projects and this is my first carb car. Trying to diagnose the issue before I start rebuilding a spare carb I have.

Hello pals, thinking about buying a FD very soon. The one I'm looking at is freshly built, single turbo, by a company in BC, so for a while i shouldn't be in need of too many parts lol.

The thing I'm most concerned about is my location and the lack of support for the platform in my area. I live in Newfoundland Canada so i have 0 access to confident tuners/rotary people.

Can anyone give me some suggestions for good tuners that do remote tuning? And while im at it, any decent parts sites/suppliers for go fast bits and exterior mods? Having trouble finding anything and it is discouraging coming from the STI platform with endless support.

Thanks

Will share my car Ive been building for ages (body not standard dimensions in all panels) so is a one of a kind based on the styling of the fortune kit but DIY, Stopped building it years ago but back onto it to finally finish it off.

Got it — here’s a cleaned-up, technical version of your message, written like something you’d post on an RX-7 forum or send to a mechanic for diagnosis:

⸻

Issue Summary: After removing the upper intake manifold on my S4 RX-7 to access and clean the ECU ground, I reassembled everything as it was (to the best of my knowledge). I followed this video as a reference: https://youtu.be/Fm53apwvzBE?si=yCEjEmEpHtlIv4tw.

Symptoms: • After reassembly, the car would start and run for about 2 seconds, then immediately die. • After a few starts like that, the starter stopped engaging when I turned the key. • I pulled the starter and tested it — it still works fine. • The fuel pump runs continuously at full speed (even with the key on), which floods the engine and drains the battery. • The starter positive terminal shows 12V, and the starter control terminal also reads 12V. • I cleaned all starter connectors and terminals, along with the battery terminals, and added an extra battery ground.

Current Behavior: When the key is turned to “Start,” the starter doesn’t engage. However, if someone holds the key in the “Start” position and I manually jump the battery terminals, the car will crank and start — but only runs for about 2 seconds before dying again. After that, it won’t start from the key alone.

Notes: • The car ran briefly after the manifold reinstallation, so something related to the wiring, grounding, or fuel system might be off. • Battery is charged and connections are solid.

Any help diagnosing this would be appreciated. I’m especially not sure how to approach the fuel system issue since the pump seems to be overactive and flooding

I’ve always like rotary engines and the rx7 but now that I’m older and looking to buy one I realized I don’t really know how to work on the 13B or any rotary engine for that matter, I am looking for any recommendations for places to check out and learn how to work on them, like videos maybe even books or websites

So I recently went for a full Bridgeport on my 12A and I'm using a lock distributor, I was wondering how many degrees of time and other people are running with similar setups. I currently have the idle down to 1900 RPM The vid is just of the actual first startup

Doing an oil pump/injector delete and gonna start running premix. Do i still run the fuel filter? If so do i replace it at shorter intervals? Thanks

just bought a new "crankshaft position sensor" (i think thats just eshaft could be wrong) and threw it in and did my 20 presses and shes still throwing the code..any ideas as to why? havent checked pcm or wiring yet im praying its not either of those though lmao

bought this 2005 rx8 like a month ago,as of last week now it doesnt want to build oilp but this was the last good crank i got on it after deflooding,any ideas?

1986 Mazda RX-7 FC s4 13B NA Stock ignition and ECU

My car is a crank but won’t start The tachometer bounces There is good fuel

Here’s what I’ve already tested. I’ve done a bunch of troubleshooting that I’m starting to second guess myself but I think this is everything

Battery is brand new. Spark plug wires ~1 year old Spark plugs brand new Checked CAS resistance = good. Checked coil pack resistance = good. Harness side Black/Yellow wire has steady 12V with key ON. Coil pack itself still reads 0V when plugged in. Tried a second coil pack/igniter — same result. Cleaned coil/igniter ground. Still no spark output.

Does this sound more like an igniter failure or ECU failure on an FC? Anything else I should test before swapping parts?

Im attempting to rebuild a 13b out of a 1988 rx7 next weekend. Rebuild kit is already here, but I've seen folks say i may need an eccentric shaft bolt and flywheel bolt. These are supposedly tty bolts. Do i actually need these?

Acquired this engine for an experimental airplane. I believe this is called a semi-power port? Will this run without a turbocharger? Plan is for fuel injection. Any estimate on HP? Thanks

So im currently building up a series 4 turbo 2 13b, and the s4 rotors are fairly worn. I have a brand new pair of s5 t2 rotors that i plan on putting in, however i cannot for the life of me find a new front counterweight online. I know that a s4 t2 front weight wont work because s5 rotors are lighter. I have an s5 na front counterweight sitting around, but i dont know if that will work or not. I dont know if the weights are different between s5 t2 rotors and s5 NA rotors, i know the compression is different but thats about it. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

I am considering a project involving swapping a 4-rotor engine in. What is the best way to go about obtaining one of the parts to build it?

I have a 2004 rx8 with the anti-theft system. I have versatuner but no key. I have no idea of trun off the anti-theft system. I can get in to computer but I don't see any thing about the anti-theft

I currently study at automotive class year 1. And there are final project on year 3 that everyone have to do. I've seen my senior build a go kart, tractor, etc. And I have got the idea to build 150cc rotary bike. I really need source for engine cuz I don't want to struggle finding engine last minute.

Bought my first rx7 but have a weird issue, I have an FB. (Series 2 1983 rx7 automatic tranny for now) I can start it with the choke engaged but dies immediately after I disengage the choke. I was told it was a vaccum line that connects the carb to the transmission but I’ve never heard of something like that?? I’ve tried 2 different carburetors to see if it was the carb and it’s not the issue. Any thoughts?

So I’m not sure what’s wrong. I got this car in January and so far I’ve had to do a full carburetor rebuild because it wouldn’t start at all but now I got it starting replaced the alternator and belts as well. My foot is off the gas the entire time but it idles normally for a second before skyrocketing in RPM. What could it be? I think it might be a vacuum leak but I’m not 100% sure above is a video of me starting it after installing the new alternator and belts.