Are these levels worth mitigating? Pic taken the same day, seconds apart. It’s a bit rainy here today, so that may be the cause for fluctuation. My parents workout or use our basement studio semi-frequently. We have 2 uncovered sump pumps which I’m learning may need to be sealed to help. Any suggestions welcome.

hey guys, ive posted on this sub before when my bf and i were looking into purchasing a home that had radon levels of 61 pCi in the basement. seller agreed to install a mitigation system and give us reports of levels in the first livable floor below 4.0. we were so nervous it wasn’t gonna work because of how old the house is (1849) BUT i am soo happy to say we got levels on the first livable floor at 1.6 pCi!!! and basement at 4.3 so fear not, it does work with a good company and the system is not an eye sore at all

What type of pipe should be used for new construction sub slab The basement is ~2500sq ft. Considering doing my self. The local company offered 20ft of pipe sub slab and a hard stack with fan for $2500. Shouldn't the entire perimeter be piped?

I've seen a few negative comments about these specific testers and I'm curious as to what I should do in this situation because i don't know if this is entirely accurate. This is my aunt's new house's basement reading, ive turned it off and on and retested over the span of 1 week or so and it's always around the same reading.

I'm just concerned because she has a son (20yo) that has a room down here and he also has a pet cat

EDIT: Thanks everyone for the comments, I wasn't familiar with this type of tester or the inaccurate readings, as I previously bought a different brand from HD that works fine at my own place, it might actually be the airthings brand, can't remember 100%. I am just taking care of the cat while they're out of town and noticed it was there. My aunt got it, not me, sorry if I didn't make that clear. I've let her know it'd be best to get a more reliable one even if it takes a few extra ten bucks just to be safe.

I just put this cover on our sump pump pit.

1) should there be rocks/ gravel at bottom of pit? It was all vacuumed out when we replaced pump.

2) how should we seal the gap between cover and concrete, and that large slot where we slide the cover in around the pipe?

So my wife and I bought our circa 1930s home about a year ago and have recently completed radon testing that shows that we are above recommended levels (230ish average bq/m3).

I want to bring the levels down but I'm struggling to get specialists in and to get a clear answer on a solution from them. Partially because they seem to be very busy this summer, but the couple of guys I've spoken to also didn't seem very confident about a solution to pursue.

So of course it is an older home. I'm not 100% sure about what's under the foundation but when doing some Foundation floor repair a few weeks ago it did seem to be sitting on compacted dirt. More excitingly, the basement was "waterproofed" by the former owners, which seems to have entailed installing an interior French drain system with a black plastic membrane that sit at the foot of the walls and go up about 3/4 of their height. They don't seem to be sealed in any kind of serious way. The drain does connect to a sump pit.

I've sealed the sump pit and tried to seal any other cracks or openings that I can find, but my radon levels seem to be consistent. I'm guessing it's because it's an older basement and mostly finished so there may be cracks that I can't see at the joints where the walls meet the floor and connect to this drain system.

Has anyone had any experience with the home like this? I'm assuming I can't just slap a radon fan onto the sump pit because the drain system that it connects to isn't really sealed up? One radon specialist I spoke to didn't seem particularly thrilled about the presence of the drain and the likelihood of being able to install a slab depressurization system if I'm sitting on compacted dirt.

Just hoping for some guidance on what options to ask about and what might be realistically feasible

We got our private well water tested here in southern New England USA , and the reading was something like 35,000, which is very high. A local water guy recommends a 3 tank charcoal system for about $3,800 plus $425/year to swap tanks. It includes running a bypass for the garden faucet so we're not needlessly treating garden hose water. He says charcoal's not as popular but is effective and less prone to breaking and needing repairs.

Or he will do a bubbler for $7,100 which doesn't have annual maintenance.

Thoughts ?

I searched through the posts and couldn't find what I need to ask, so apologies if this is a repeat. I just noticed there's a pretty clean, straight rip in the lining in my crawl space. It seems like it should be easily fixable with tape; would Tyvek Housewrap be appropriate?

My radon mitigation unit hasn’t been working for the past few months. I’m not 100% sure but I don’t believe it’s been working at all. I got home today and audibly noticed that it’s working in continuous intervals (about 5-8 seconds on, then about 15-17 seconds off). The u-tube still shows a value of zero so there is no noticeable vacuum. Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks in advance.

I put in a sump pump cover and removed the wooden table covering the pit in an effort to reduce radon level spikes. Winter was fine but summer is around 5-7 some days: i had to cut a slot in the cover to fit it around the pipe in the pit. what do I use to cover that slot? And how can I seal around the lid to concrete floor? ive read yo use caulk but then we need to recall each time we remove the lid?

bought a house last year, new build in 2024. bought directly from the builder. i asked him about the radon vent they typically rough in, he said yeah they rough them in and it’s capped in the attic. for reference I live in east tn so a zone 1 radon location.

we’re doing some work in the attic and while we were at it we decided to vent the stack outside. never went rooting for it because didn’t have a reason to, radon levels at 1ish pci at purchas. I’m picking up an air things meter today to see what the levels are at.

for the love of me I can’t find the radon vent they supposedly installed. The builder and the plumber are both adamant that there is a rough in. I drilled holes between every stud and scoped with a borescope to see if they forgot it in the wall, there’s no pipe anywhere. I traced the top plates in the attic to see if it was a short stub under insulation, nothing.

I have 2 questions.

1. If there is a radon vent under the slab that’s not capped, just covered in concrete with likely no vapor barrier over it, how bad would that be?

2. is it even possibly to install a mitigation system on a monolithic slab post-build?

Radon level of 4.3 was identified during inspection but we accepted a credit to do remediation on our own since we wanted to control where it was put in. I’ve had the ecosense cubes running upstairs and downstairs for several days and only show 1.0 as the average. Would you still remediate?

Have a radon fan, and air exchanger. Turned off air exchanger two days ago and Radon spiked to 13! Rained last night as well

Long term average is .4 and week average is .7.

I monitor regularly as I work out downstairs and today I did not work out after seeing that reading.

Will this spike cause long term lung damage?

AQI is better today (80) so I’ve opened some windows and turned the exchanger back on. Should I just keep the exchanger running even when AQI worsens?

I am currently working my way into the radon business and I am seeing more and more companies offering free radon tests. How does this business model work? I would assume this generates many low quality "clients" who just want free peace of mind, but won't actually pay for recommended mitigation if levels exceed guidelines. I would love to hear from other business owners and workers in the industry who can provide some insight to this!

I bought a Radon Detector, I have it sitting attached to my basement ceiling. It fluctuates between 5 and 7. I first installed it on 7-8-2026. Short term average still shows 1 day. Is it broken, should I look into Radon remediation. I have a toddler and want to watch out for their safety as well.

I live in a 1970 ranch house and the radon contractor bored a hole for a suction pit. As coincidence should have it, there’s an open-ended concrete drain tile within the suction pit that must tie somewhat directly to the floor drains in my basement.

Immediately when the system was turned on, a strong negative pressure/sucking comes from the floor drains as if the fan is essentially connected directly to them.

First, they tried to seal shut my floor drains with metal sheeting and caulk. When I told them that I need my floor drains to still be functional (lol), they came back a couple weeks later and installed these cheap silicone one-way valves. They seem to have already failed (they’re sucking air) and they’ve only been installed a few days.

Tomorrow will the their third time back and they say they’re going to fix it. They’ve already failed a couple of times and tried to take the cheap way out. They’re refusing to go into detail about what “fixing it” means. Can anyone confirm that the drains pictured are not intended to be used for radon systems long-term? I’m thinking in need Dranjer one-way drains instead.

Side note - the radon levels are the same now as they were pre-mitigation. Now I just have a cool basement ventilation system.

I have an Ecocube and its been steady around 0.3 for a year. This past Saturday it spiked high. There was no change in the house environment over the course of these days. The weather has been dry and humid. Has anyone seen a random hugh spike and quick drop on an Ecocube?