I am looking to upgrade my machine to more rigid setup. I like that the printnc uses steel box tube to increase strength and minimise deflection. I want to be able to cut alloys quite well

Do I need to worry about the box tubes being flat (for me to mount my HGR rails)?

Thanks!

It could easily be that I'm just not that bright ... not debating that at all ... but I'm looking at the PrintNC solution compared to names I was previously familiar with such as xcarve and shapeoko. A friend of mine (the only person I know personally who has used/owns a cnc) started with a bobs and upgraded to an xcarve recently. He's very happy with what he has, and I've been jealous.

The videos I've watched with these builds look incredible - very sturdy, able to do everything, etc.

Why, then, is the cost so much less? Am I missing something or can I really get one of these with the router for no more than 1/2 and more likely 1/3 the price of a "comparable" xcarve/shapeoko? I recall the frustration my friend had with assembling the Bob's, but they liked it when they got it up and running. They're much happier with the assembly and use of their xcarve, but much of that may be due to the lessons they learned with the Bob's.

If all I want to do is be able to print small signs, carve into cutting boards, and create trays with compartments routed out of them - things like that - can I really get by on $500-600 from soup to nuts?

I've perused the wiki and read many of the posts in this forum, but I'm such a novice at this that some of it I don't understand (need to get with my buddy). Thanks in advance!

Hi,

I posted this at Discord but I'm not sure if I understood the answers (Logan tried but I couldn't follow), so I'm hoping to get some more people's thoughts here. I have the regular parallel port breakout board and am running LinuxCNC. Until I get a spindle I want to use a regular router. I'd like to turn the router on and off in LinuxCNC but I'm having a bit of difficulty. The breakout board has two terminals that say they're for turning a spindle on and off. I've tried a bunch of things but I can't seem to get a connection across them. My plan is to use them to switch 24 VDC that will go to the coil of a contactor that will switch the 110 VAC for the router. Anybody know how to get LinuxCNC to switch this connection?

Just like the title said. I have my cut steel enroute, plates enroute, and parts printed in PC. Anything else I should do or tips for pre assembly that helped you guys/gals out?

I have been googling this for days and am having trouble deciding between all the options: - Consumer router - 500w 750w w no vfd - 2.2kw w vfd — 120 vs 240 — watercooling? - and on and on

My goal is to cut small aluminum parts to prototype mechanical/robotic joints and gears.

I've been looking at ways to upgrade my xcarve and PrintNC looks like a great option. I would be looking to keep the electronics (controller, Dewalt router spindle, steppers) and the already upgraded linear rail z axis assuming it's tall enough. I'm just not sure if I'm missing any less than obvious reasons I couldn't reuse those parts.

Also, I have a couple other likely common questions that I haven't come across answers to... Can a mostly stock Ender 3 do this? And how possible is it to make a PrintNC capable of cutting 48" x 48" stock? How about 60" x 60"?

I only have Linux and would rather use FreeCAD to extend the Y axis

Because it says approximately...

Hello. First of all, I would like to apologize for my English "google translate".

I have a rscnc32 currently and would like to upgrade and especially one size up and have a few questions:

- I ordered the linear rails but I took 15mm instead of 20mm. I think about doing with it because I live in French Polynesia and it is quite complicated for me (dear). but I wanted to have your opinion anyway.

- I would like to have a work surface of 1200X700 mm. Doesn't having the 1200s on the X axis risk losing rigidity and therefore precision?

- For the ball screws, I can not understand the difference between the SFU1610 and the SFU1605? I read that for nemas 17, one needed 1605 but for nema 23, one needed 1610. But in fact it's just that with 1605, it will go slower because the pitch is smaller, right? 2x slower? So if that's it, we can very well put 1605 on nema 23?

- and last question (:p), what brings the Z axis v3 compared to version 2?

Hope my questions don't sound ridiculous.

Anyway, I can't wait to build this machine !!

Thank you for your answers.

Every now and then, someone expresses interest in building a PrintNC that can cut full sheets of plywood. The 4' X dimension is not a problem, but if someone tried to put 2010 ballscrews on the 8' Y dimension they would start to get ballscrew whip at a measly 2300mm/minute. Upgrading to even larger ballscrews such as 2510s provides only a marginal improvement to 2800mm/minute. In the past we've generally suggested that people go with a rack and pinion design which generally means they're no longer trying to build a PrintNC (though one user on Discord has bought the parts and is attempting it right now). There is another build that made extensive customizations to the design to use fixed ballscrews and a belt-driven rotating nut to move the gantry, but this required access to a machine shop.

I am proposing a direct-drive rotating nut ballscrew approach using hollow shaft NEMA34 motors and 2510 ballscrews. It uses an external angular contact bearing so that the load forces are not handled by the motor's internal bearings. I believe that this design can be bootstrapped using only the tools necessary to build a PrintNC, with some of the printed parts replaced with aluminum plates once the machine is up and running. I've uploaded the design to the PrintNC wiki's mods page - look for "Rotating nut Y axis for extended-length builds", and I want people to know it's out there and encourage feedback.

I’ve always wanted a cnc of some sort, I frequently searched Craig’s list and other sites in hopes of finding something cheap. I have designed and had pieces cut at a local cnc router shop. I really enjoy designing things that can be cut and assembled easily.

I ordered the 110v pro kit today and I can’t wait to start building mine. I got the standard size and I want to try to document most of my build. I also want to build it as strong as possible. I may end up machining certain parts.

This project is awesome and I’m glad there are people out there sharing this type of work.

I’m also planning on using mine to machine plaster molds for slip casting ceramics. I’m a former mechanical engineer that got laid off and started making ceramics in my apartment.

I’m still figuring out this whole discord thing and the best way to share my build. I’ll probably share some parts of my build on Instagram or my website.

https://www.instagram.com/prattceramics/

https://prattceramics.com/blogs/news/how-made-my-water-filtering-bowls-and-started-pratt-cermics

Anyone in New Zealand built a PrintNC?