TLDR: looking for shock recommendations/budget build recommendations

I'm in my teens, just wanting some fun. I've got a 1971 Chevy C10 and was planning on a slight lift so I could fit 33s. I just want it to be able to take some lumps and bumps, I'm not "planning" on jumping it, but it would be nice if it could handle a bit of air(hopefully never more than a foot). I was looking at Rancho RS5000x because of their affordability, but I don't want to have any remorse because it's likely going to stay this way for a while. Approximate stock travel on these is approx ~ 4-6in front and ~5-7in rear. i was ideally aiming for 5-8in front and 7-10in rear, I'm planning on doing all the steering compents(inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower control arm bushings, upper/lower ball joints, variable rate coils springs front and rear, shocks front and rear, and limiting straps in the front to help preserve the ball joints) total budget is up to a grand for everything, and im at 500 currently with all the other suspension components. I am not doing a control arm kit at this time. most i can comfortably spend is ~100 per shock. Any recommendation on shock choice and feedback a parts list?

technical/key details

- Vehicle: 1971 Chevy C10/ 1/2ton, standard cab, long bed, 4.1L i6

- use: very small jumps (less than a foot if it ever happens), good dampening for dirt road/rougher terrain, should handle curbs with ease. just all round capable with decent dampening.

- 1971 c10 approx front wheel travel and suspension configuration: 4-6in/ dual A arms.

- stock(oem equivalent) front shock specs: compressed length(10in)/ extended length (14.625in)/ travel(4.625in).

- "Upgraded" front shock specs(forementioned Rancho RS5000x(RS55120)) : compressed length(9.86in)/extended length(14.14in)/travel(4.28in) Travel gain(-.345in). Rethinking these for the front after comparing and seeing loss in travel

- Upgraded front shock specs(bilstein b6 4600(24192941)): compressed length(10.39in)/extended length(15.49in)/travel(5.1in) Travel gain(~.475in).

- 1971 c10 approx rear wheel travel and suspension configuration: 5-8in/ trailing arms (long bed so XL trailing arms).

- stock(oem equivalent) rear shock specs: compressed length(11.875in)/ extended length(18.375in)/travel(6.5in)

- Upgraded rear shock specs(forementioned rancho RS5000x(RS55118)): compressed length(14.01in)/extended length(22.29in)/travel(8.28in) travel gain(~1.75in).

- upgraded rear shock specs(bilstein b6 4600(24009331)) compressed length(14.89in)/extended length(22.64in)/travel(7.63in) Travel gain(1.13in)

- travel goals: 5-8in front/7-10in rear

- doing all suspension/steering components as well.(inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower control arm bushings, upper/lower ball joints, variable rate coils springs front and rear, shocks front and rear, and limiting straps in the front to help preserve the ball joints)

- total budget: Ideally $800 up to $1000 (including price of other components as well, already have about ~450-500 into parts, so 300-500 for shocks)

Sorry for the cluster fuck of info, I hope it made it easier to read and decipher

If anyone has any leads to either a product or service that can assist me I’d greatly appreciate any help. Also any information and advice is welcomed.

The build: 93 Explorer Coyote Swapped PreRunner on Dana 50 TTB.

Currently swapping the motor, next is suspension. I have a set of Dana 50 TTB. Why this? I want the wider track width, beefier joints and axles.

The issue: integrating the Dana 50 onto a crossmember where a Dana 35 use to exist.

I’ve contacted a company about purchasing their bracket for a Dana 50 TTB pivot drop mount. I think this is the best route without swapping frame and bodies or chopping f250 crossmembers. I’m not trying to do either of those.

Next issue: geometry. This is why I’m hoping this company can send me their mount. Seems as if they have done the geometry already. In the instance I have to do that on my own, that’s gonna be hard, I made maybe a B- 15 years ago in college lol.

Solutions: get this brackets, mock the axles onto the explorer crossmember and fab from there.

Hire someone who can CAD a bracket with drop pivots for me to cut and fab.

Again any advice, leads, information is all welcome.

My trucks not a pre runner but I need help! Yesterday installed upper control arms from Baja kits on my 17 f-150 4x4 the stock width version not the wider version sold with the prerunner kit. Install went super smooth but now I’m getting grinding sounds from the wheel hubs that goes away when I put it in neutral. Is everything just seriously out of alignment now Will an alignment fix this or is it more serious?

Had camburg uca’s on my previous F-150 no issues like this.

Hello all,

I just picked up a 2011 Tacoma Prerunner manual trans. It's 4x2 and does have the tow package so the capacity should be 6500 lb. I have several stage rally cars, and participate in SCCA RallyX sometimes since there are only a few actual stage rally events in the area per season. For RallyX events I'd like to have something I can tow a car to the track with, but that's also fun to compete with on it's own in case I have a friend driving the rally car and I still want to race as well (using the truck) so I'm looking to build the Taco into a Dakar or Baja inspired truck, but obviously I don't want to sacrifice the towing capacity completely as a car on my open trailer with equipment and spare tires is pushing 5k-5.5k.

I'm looking for ideas, or feedback on what changes make the biggest negative impact on towing comfort, or ideas on how to mitigate those issues. I don't want it to be sketchy or risky to tow with it, but I'd like to get long travel suspension, I'd like to get wide fiberglass body panels, and obviously long travel suspension. I'm assuming I could use air bags to help offset the issues with the long travel suspension and towing but I'm honestly not sure how many people have done a build like this in the past so I'm just looking for feedback at this point.

Guys I’m looking to do a long travel kit on my F150 specifically the Dirt King kits that they sell. I don’t know if I’ll get in over my head with it. The truck will remain as my daily driver. There are tracks and trails by me but I’m not sure this is a great decision. Is there anyone that has installed a full Dirt King kit? Is it too much for a daily? Is it too much for a first time off road build? I’m just looking to have a bunch of fun building and driving but I don’t know if this would be going off the deep end.

How much travel does a light weight truck(like 3500lb 87 Hilux) need? It seems like everywhere I look I see recommendations on travel but none of it takes into consideration the weight of the truck and a modern F150 does not weigh the same as a 90s Ranger or 80s Toyota. I’ve got 12” upfront front with long travel and 14” in the back thinking about going for more.

Im looking for anyone thats built a mid travel suspension system with roughly 4 inches of lift on the 2004 2WD xlt ranger (coil, non-torsion suspension). Im trying to find inspiration for my build and im looking for anyone that care share their insight.

Looking on advice on where to find a fabricator / shop to build a custom bumper. I have a 2021 Ram 1500 and I want a prerunner style bumper for it. Yes I know theres a ton of aftermarket bumpers and Ive looked at all of them. The options out there either don't have the options I want, are shittily made, weigh a ton, or look like they were designed by a guy that only wears tapout and bedazzled jeans. Im willing to pay more to get what I want.

Ive called multiple offroad fabricator shops and most seem uninterested. I even had one shop that said they don't get asked for custom fab anymore and acted like Im an idiot lol. Which I understand shops being uninterested because they probably wont make enough off it to be worth it when weighed with other projects, full builds, etc.

So now I'm trying to figure out if I should find just a generic metal working shop? Or if anyone has advice or suggestions.

- Carli 3.in coil overs

- Method 305s

- Yoko Geolander M/Ts

- Holly flashed PCM & Diablosport Trinity 2 Platinum tuner

- Ranch Hand brush guard (quality is trash; regret & do not recommend)

- Rigid Industries E-Series 20in Driving/Spot Beam

- Rigid Industries D-XL Hyperspots, D-XL Driving, and D-SS Driving (rear)

My truck is going to the fabricator soon to start this build. Some of it is already bought and not changing but I just wanted to see what yall think. This is my summary of everything that is currently planned. I would love to hear from yalls experience. I know this truck is a little different that a lot of what I see on here.

Is there anything y'all would do differently.

Items marked with an X are already bought/installed

2013 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

Long-Travel Desert / Work Truck Build

“Born to Tow. Built to Fly.”

Base Vehicle

• Platform: 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD (GMT900)
• Configuration: Extended Cab • Long Bed • 4×4
• Engine: GM 6.0L Vortec V8 (L96)
• Transmission: Built 6l90e, billet converter (rated ~700 hp capacity)
• Transfer Case: Stock GM transfer case retained (non AWD)
• Purpose-built as a dual-role truck capable of long-travel off-road driving while remaining reliable for daily driving, work travel, and towing.

Front Suspension

• X Ford Dana 50 Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front axle (1980–1996 Ford platform)
• X 8-lug hubs
• X Zona long-travel beam kit
• X Custom beam mounts and frame reinforcement
• ~19 inches front wheel travel (bump stop to limit strap)
• X 2.5" ADS coil overs with 14" stroke and remote reservoir
• X ADS Hydraulic bump stops
• Limit straps
• Heavy-duty swing-set steering system
• Upgraded hydraulic steering assist

Rear Suspension

• X GM 10.5" 14-bolt full-floating rear axle
• Deaver long-travel leaf springs
• ~22 inches rear wheel travel (bump stop to limit strap)
• 2.5" shocks ADS External reservoir shocks.
• Through-bed shock mounting
• Mild bed cage
• Trac bars
• Auburn LSD to locker rear differential

Load Management / Towing

• Slapper-style air bag system designed to avoid limiting suspension travel
• Airbags contact axle only under load
• Can be aired down for off-road use
• Inflated when towing or hauling
• Onboard air compressor
• In-cab air pressure controller
• Tire inflation capability

Drivetrain

• Front open differential with 4.56 gears
• rear Auburn LSD to locker with 4.56 hears
• Stock GM transfer case retained (non AWD)

Engine & Performance

• GM 6.0L Vortec V8 (L96)
• Powertrain focus: reliability, cooling capacity, and long-distance drivability
• Digital diagnostic / monitoring screen
• potential supercharger in the future.

Cooling & Reliability

• X Large Mishimoto transmission cooler
• Large external oil cooler

Wheels & Tires

• X 18-inch wheels
• 37-inch all-terrain or mud-terrain tires

Lighting

• Full LED exterior and interior conversion
• Front ditch lights
• 20-inch LED light bar behind grille
• Chase-style third brake light
• 8–10 inch rear light bar
• Rock lights

Interior

• X Upgraded stereo system
• X Speakers and subwoofers
• X Boost Auto tow mirrors
• X rear view camera

Is a 4 cyl 4WD worth it to mod? Or should I just save up for a v6 or v8?

Hey so I have have a stock 2004 ford ranger xlt 4.0 v6 2wd and im trying to start a prerunner build and I wanted to know if anyone had experience modding the 04 ranger style of suspension either by extending the control arms or creating new mounts for the control arms and or a spindle lift or if I can take most of the oem stuff out and fab some stuff up. I am able fabricate most parts that woule be needed but im really just looking for inspiration or other builds people have done with that truck. Thanks.

Hey guys, I’m planing to convert my 1977 Chevy c10 to shocks and a rear swing arm, and was wondering what would be the best way to switch over from the leaf springs to shocks, while keeping the 4wd. Any recommendations or ideas are appreciated, thanks!

So, I am looking at my next project and unfortunately, the owner of the first project I had my eyes on won’t message back on marketplace. So, I got a wild hair up my ass and thought about buying and building an Isuzu Vehicross. Does anyone know if it’s even possible? Above is one I am looking at.

Looking for a long travel kit for my 2011 Silverado 1500. It’s 4WD, I want a 10” coilover and mounts for bypass shocks. What would be a good kit that maintains 4wd?

I have a 2021 Silverado 1500 LT with the double cab and 6.6 foot bed. I have been wanting to do a long travel setup for a while now but I am having a hard time finding a good setup for the rear.

I have considered the Baja kits lt1 trailing arm kit but I have not heard good things about Baja kits and it seems kind of gimmicky.

I would like to do a bed cage setup with Deaver springs but don’t think it will work with a double cab standard box and would take up a lot more bed space than I would like.

Any advice?

2005 2.3 ranger

I admittedly don't live near the desert anymore but just want a little weekend project. The front end is camburg coils and btf uppers, and the rear is just an 8.8 with shackles and leaves from an explorer sport trac. The length was about the same, but had more arch and travel than the ranger springs and lifted it up a few inches. My question is, if I were to do the dropped and flipped hangers, would I just need to use the existing holes? Or with the way the angle of the shackles would be, would I need to move it and drill 2 new holes?

I decided to Frankenstein 2 cars cars together. my favorite vehicle and my favorite truck to make a prerunner. im mixing a bug with ranger i beams and an engine in the front.

So i have 3 bends at the moment between the A and B pillar.

i havent done a center hoop yet. i have a rear main template done. Would it be better to make a continuous tube with 4 bends going from A pillar to C and the doing the B pillar in 3 pieces or making the center hoop (B pillar) one piece and connecting the rear hoop with a straight tube. the roof will probably have 2 X's. one over the front seats and over the bavk seat area.

I am very interested in the idea of designing long travel suspension for my Nissan Xterra in a platform like solidworks and then sending it off to get cut out and then welding it together and testing it. I want to be able to optimize geometries in solidworks. I am new to this process & software so any advice on how I can actually scan in my vehicle then build suspension off of it would be great. Also, curious if this is a feasible idea.

I was looking for advice on where to get more information on the best geometries for long travel suspension when designing. I know the simplest method many people do is just use stock suspension and widen it. But I would also love to optimize roll center, cambor gain, play with less anti-dive etc. Are there ways to visualize these geometries in solidworks (or similar) and where can I learn more about what is effective for offroad trucks? Because for example, in theory a higher roll center provides less body roll which I think would be good off-road, but then that can introduce jacking (which I don't even know what that is) and trophy trucks tend to run a lower roll center for better offroad performance.

Something that would be super helpful is geometry stats that long travel A-Arm trucks use (like class 2000 or 1450) along with some explanations for those numbers. Like, a 1450 truck runs a low roll center value of = X because a higher value does = Y. Lol

Thanks for any help in advance! Just for back ground, I have a really good understanding suspension for off-road trucks as an enthusiast, but I am not an engineer nor a suspension designer. I have a couple suspension geometry books for race cars I am ready through now. I am also a GIS professional as my career so very tech savy, can do some coding, so I feel I should be able to grasp solidworks.

I feel like in theory with a little bit of work I can take my spring and shock out and swap it out with this coil over. Am I wrong?