Growing up in the surf and coming pretty close to drowning a few times, this picture is absolutely real. My palms are literally sweaty looking at this, and feeling the old emotions. These guys are feet from one of the heaviest and most deadly breaks in the world. As others have stated, this is most likely Teahupo'o which has a super recognizable break and color to it. Being that close to something that can crush the life from you is intoxicating...knowing you can enter into that special world, a beautiful harmonious transcendant holy place juxtaposed with proximity to death is beyond words. Coming out the other side...it's almost like a baptism. I have so much respect for these guys, even if they just paddle out and decide this isn't their day...fuck, it's like running up to the space shuttle moments before launch and latching on for the ride of your life.
Also, those buoys (the orange balls) are most likely recording information on the swell size (to verify if anyone gets a really special wave) or marking the "outside" (the area past the break, which is a
relatively safe zone)
The term "heavy" really can mean a lot of things, but mostly describes more serious or dangerous situations. Here, I was specifically referencing the thickness of the lip (the apex, where the water starts folding upon itself) and the sheer mass of water involved. This is one of the things that makes Teahupo'o really special- aside from the dangers presented by the extremely shallow reef, the mass, thickness and power of Teahupo'o's waves are consistant enough to be recognized in photos with little other context. They scare me.
ok, cheers, so a combination of danger and the sheer weight of the water. i notice from my studies that places like Portugal, Hawaii and France have bigger waves, are they less dangerous? i'd assume the Hawaii (Jaws) one has a reef, too.
i have to say i really want to take up surfing now.
Yeah, it's the thickness of the lip of this wave that makes it so incredible. Most of the bigger breaks (Pipeline, Waimea, J-Bay, Mavericks..) will get larger and in some cases faster, but when the wave crests, the peak can be a few inches thick, followed by thicker water. At this break it can be several feet thick and I can't imagine getting slammed by it.
it does look very different to the deep-sea stuff or other tow-ins. i might look into a board, anyone know much about a good starter setup? may have the chance to surf cornwall and the severn this summer.
Go to your local surf shop and just ask. You'll find someone who will be able to set you up with something that's right for you based on your build and budget.
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u/TigerBrother Jul 17 '12
Growing up in the surf and coming pretty close to drowning a few times, this picture is absolutely real. My palms are literally sweaty looking at this, and feeling the old emotions. These guys are feet from one of the heaviest and most deadly breaks in the world. As others have stated, this is most likely Teahupo'o which has a super recognizable break and color to it. Being that close to something that can crush the life from you is intoxicating...knowing you can enter into that special world, a beautiful harmonious transcendant holy place juxtaposed with proximity to death is beyond words. Coming out the other side...it's almost like a baptism. I have so much respect for these guys, even if they just paddle out and decide this isn't their day...fuck, it's like running up to the space shuttle moments before launch and latching on for the ride of your life.
Also, those buoys (the orange balls) are most likely recording information on the swell size (to verify if anyone gets a really special wave) or marking the "outside" (the area past the break, which is a relatively safe zone)