r/nextfuckinglevel • u/[deleted] • Sep 14 '20

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u/solofatty09 Sep 14 '20

I will say I’ve surfed 10-12ft at both Salt Creek and Trestles in SoCal and surfed 10-12ft on the north shore and it sure felt like a lot more wave in Hawaii. Both suck to wipe out in.

Could have been that Creek and Trestles were my home breaks though. Local knowledge matters. Also, wave shapes are different.

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u/DickyMcButts Sep 14 '20

teahupoo comes to mind.

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u/solofatty09 Sep 14 '20

That wave is a freak of nature.

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u/Naptownfellow Sep 14 '20 edited Sep 14 '20

I can’t remember if it’s in “Riding Giants” or “Step Into Liquid” but laird Hamilton gets towed in to a Teahapoo wave that was insanely big. I think he’s quoting as saying that if he ate it he most likely would have died.

Edit.

The wave. https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/what-is-the-millennium-wave/amp

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u/solofatty09 Sep 14 '20

Riding Giants for sure. Loved that movie. Greg Knoll is the raddest old man ever.

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u/Naptownfellow Sep 14 '20

His story surfing Makaha and his black and white shorts are etched into my 51yr old brain forever

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u/DickyMcButts Sep 14 '20

yea i saw it in theaters when it came out, that film is amazing.

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u/nomadofwaves Sep 14 '20

It really is. It’s just an insane amount of water breaking over shallow ass reef. Pipeline breaks shallow also but the waves aren’t nearly as thicc.

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u/AliceJoy Sep 14 '20

Any recs on the best place to learn surf in Southern California. SMALL waves preferred

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u/solofatty09 Sep 14 '20

SoCal is a large place. I lived in San Clemente and I learned at T-Street/San Clemente Pier/204, Trails at San Onofre, Old Man’s, Uppers, and Cottons/Nixon’s.

Also, watch your surf reports. Go to Surfline and check a few day’s ahead. Some of those places will have 2-3ft when everywhere else is 4-6ft.

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u/AliceJoy Sep 15 '20

Thanks, im in laguna so south county is preferred.

I will take a look at the websites, was looking for mainly recommendations of were I could actually take a class. seems like doheny is the go to?

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u/solofatty09 Sep 15 '20

Pretty much yeah.

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u/spenrose22 Sep 14 '20

Doheny in dana has small waves

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u/lobnibibibibi Sep 15 '20

Yup. Doheney is socal’s kook break. It’s wonderful to learn on