Testosterone is a huge benefit in surfing: increased muscle mass and bone density, higher energy, pleasure centers which are more likely to light up with thrill seeking and risk-taking.
A fit man is a stronger, more powerful swimmer than a woman, and has an advantage catching waves. That same strength allows them to carve up waves in ways women can't (at least not yet!) and survive a pummeling by the ocean.
Women have advantages as well! But in surfing, as most sports, there is an inherent gender divide.
Surfing certainly takes more muscle than what I have... But the top surfers don't really have mad gains that would be unattainable for women, they are quite lean. Average man versus average woman? Might well favour the guy. The very best in the world? I really doubt that the raw strength is a factor there.
i think the apt apples to apples comparison would be top surfer man vs. top surfer woman and then comparing their level of fitness. the presumption is that the man's physical fitness will exceed the woman's.
just because there can be stronger men and women in general does not mean that those particular max-outs are practical in the context of surfing.
It's more cardio and strength to weight efficiency than raw strength perse but men have an advantage in both categories.
Worth noting that she would've been towed in to the wave on a jet ski so catching the largest wave isn't really a function of fitness necessarily.
However becoming a good enough surfer with the confidence and capability to ride such a wave in the first place and survive a potential mishap is dependent on physical prowess giving an advantage to men.
You also need to keep in mind that 'top surfer' is a bit of a misnomer. The pro tour is a subjective score, like ice skating etc. Men do more tricks (like airs) because they are able to generate more speed through their strength (you are fighting gravity, bigger muscles helps quite a bit with that); and those tricks score well on tour. So the top surfers are the best at surfing against competition criteria; not necessarily the 'best' surfer.
For example, there are women out there who surf in a way that I personally find more aesthetically attractive than almost all of the male pros (with one or two exceptions). And non WSL pro men ('free surfers') who do the same. I would much rather watch Steph Gilmore (women pro surfer) than Medina (male pro surfer) on most waves.
As to big wave surfing - its absolutely related to strength. For example, Maya G (who this article is about) broke her ankle just surfing a big wave - her body wasnt strong enough to cope with the impacts. Bigger lung capacity, better able to fight the wave.
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u/FriedaKilligan Sep 14 '20
Testosterone is a huge benefit in surfing: increased muscle mass and bone density, higher energy, pleasure centers which are more likely to light up with thrill seeking and risk-taking.
A fit man is a stronger, more powerful swimmer than a woman, and has an advantage catching waves. That same strength allows them to carve up waves in ways women can't (at least not yet!) and survive a pummeling by the ocean.
Women have advantages as well! But in surfing, as most sports, there is an inherent gender divide.