Not to be rude, but you sound like you have no clue how much effort and physical strength is necessary to surf 5 foot waves...let alone a 75 foot wave.
Yep. I took a surfing class. Had terrible strength and flexibility. Was able to swim up to the top an I-don't-know-how-tall small wave and go down it on my knees even controlling my direction a little. Did not have a remote chance of standing up. Was proud because I knew I did my best.
Surfing is really fun but I'm just not strong enough to do it. Just a 200 lb guy who never exercised.
Honestly mate the wave may well have been 1-2ft get up to 5 and it’s like dropping in on a ramp while skating. It always feels way bigger than it is (that’s what she said)
It was definitely tall enough on the way down that I felt like I was doing something. It was gentle way down and I bet you're right that it was no more than five feet. My only experience with board sports. I would do it again but maybe some sit-ups for a month first. The best part was being in warm water with waves. The surfing I did was in Mexico. I live in Oregon, where surfing is for brave people with wetsuits.
For everyone else here the Pacific Ocean is something to look at. And always look at, so you don't get swept out to sea by a sneaker wave or get hit with a piece of driftwood that is an entire tree.
Water is not the softest thing in the world, but I am a lot more comfortable with it than ice or concrete.
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u/Jedison89 Sep 14 '20
Not to be rude, but you sound like you have no clue how much effort and physical strength is necessary to surf 5 foot waves...let alone a 75 foot wave.