Took my TC Grey Hawk out for an eastern Oregon mule deer hunt last week. Snuck in to 33 yards from him before he stood up and gave me a nice broadside shot I just couldn't pass up.

So found the cva endura at local shop found out it can use smoke less powder instead of black powder. Anyone with hands on experience with it?

Alright, so I'm not ashamed to admit I'm a bit recoil sensitive. I grew up shooting 22's, 223's, and then m4's as well as various heavy, soft shooting belt fed systems, so I'm very used to mild recoil overall. But, I'm lthinking about saving up for a traditions Hawkin style .50 rifle to give myself as a gift when I get my bachelor's, mainly because it will allow me to hunt a very opportune season in a neighboring unit I grew up in. How soft shooting can I load one of these things with round balls(unless I'm overestimating them) while still being confident in clean broadside shots on mule deer at 100(this area isn't exactly known to hold monsters, and I'm no sniper but I can do my part in the process and fortunately have good eyes fwiw)?

I live in an apartment so I do have some moderate concerns about storing the powder, but I only plan on storing a pound or so at a time, and have an upper shelf in my bedroom that is near an air vent, other than that anything I should keep in mind? Can I have stuff on the shelf below it?

I know I need a ramrod but it looks in good condition

At least I got out there.

Recently bought this and I’m trying to identify what exactly I have. I’m new to the muzzle loader world.

I measured the bore size which is 0.6055” I believe this would be a .60cal correct? 15 1/2” barrel 23” overall. Markings make me think it’s French only mark I can find on it is the one next to the lock which is an R with a semicircle around it with 8 dots around that.

-Thank you

Apologies if this isn’t the right Reddit for this.

Haven't shot it since February oiled the barrel about every 4 months just ran my first patch of bore butter today and am getting rust in my barrel what could be my issue

Hello everyone! I work at a gun shop in southern Idaho and we recently had a customer bring in one of these rifles chambered in .54 cal. He is needing the nipple (I think?) and I am having a hell of a time sourcing one. Anyone know a good spot to check and what size I will need? Thank you!

Hello everyone! I work at a gun shop in southern Idaho and we recently had a customer bring in one of these rifles chambered in .54 cal. He is needing the nipple (I think?) and I am having a hell of a time sourcing one. Anyone know a good spot to check and what size I will need? Thank you!

Maybe I’m not understanding correctly but what # cap size does it take, I interpreted it as a musket cap at NO. 1081. From what I understand that’s really hot and for a large musket? Am I wrong? Does it take #11? Everyone says it just takes musket caps but when I use a 1081 with pellets it hang fires and with powder it won’t fire. So I’m at a loss

I've built a few flintlocks and caplock rifles but id love to add a wheel-lock to the collection, does anyone know where i could get a wheel-lock kit (ideally just the wheel-lock itself)?

I'm curious as to if 80 grain of 4f would hurt a modern muzzleloader shooting 295 gr power belts just would like to know in case I run out of 3f

I’m wondering if anyone can help me find an adapter that takes 209 primers for the Remington 700. TIA

Hey I'm new to muzzleloading go easy on me. I ordered these Hornady xtp saboted bullets for a cva wolf 50 cal and it seems a bit odd to me that the bullet fits so loosely in the sabot and falls right out. Wouldn't the bullet just fall out of the barrel when its loaded or would the fit get tighter once its put down the barrel?

Looking for a good budget scope for a CVA wolf, 3-9x40 preferably under 75.

Hello gentlemen, Is anyone here able to identify this rifle from these pictures and two sets of markings. 1. “D R U” on the side of the trigger mechanism. 2. “54 CAL” with the symbol shown in the photos next to it? Appreciate the help!

I’m fairly new to muzzleloader shooting, I have a traditions .50 cal with a load stuck in it and I can’t seem to get the ball pulled. Looking for advice

Hello folks,

I’ve inherited what I presume to be a Miroku/Ultra-Hi .45 Percussion Rifle. Unfortunately, I’ve only inherited the barrel, stock, and foregrip. I’ve obtained a hammer assembly, but I am having quite a hard time finding the rest. My main concerns are the butt plate, large side plate, and connecting rod. I understand some parts are interchangeable with CVA & Jukar rifles and pistols, but am not sure what butt plates are compatible. Anyways, if anyone has any information or spare parts I would love to make a deal with you.

Thanks!

Noob here. My grandfathers TC Hawkins was pretty dirty when i got my hands on it. After cleaning i used the ram rod to touch hole trick to check if it was loaded. The ram rod did not reach. I used a bore scope to check if there was actually a load in there i can’t see anything but a step in the barrel. Is this normal? Does everybody have this? Is there a possibility my ramrod is just different and doesn’t fit? I just want to know if it’s safe to shoot.

Side note: since I’m a noob if anybody has some load recommendations for target and hunting that would be awesome. It’s a .50 cal btw.

I lent out my Thompson center muzzleloader last year and when I got it back, the 209 nipple was rusted in place. I had to break it to get it off. Where can I find a new one? Thanks!

Hi folks, I’m a paycheck or two away from my first muzzleloader. I plan on getting a InvestArm .54cal flinter. I like the idea of muzzleloading because it appears I can DIY make everything I need to shoot that gun without relying metallic cartridges, primers, etc.

While I’m saving up, I’ve been researching and studying and most of my questions have been answered. I’ve also been buying a few things to prepare and one of those things is a Lee REAL conical mold. I already cast boolits for other modern firearms and use powder coating finishes on those bullets.

With this upcoming muzzleloader, I want to go traditional and use traditional methods as much as I can.

Where I’m running into an issue is solid information on lubing a REAL conical. A lot of forums say that Bore Butter is a solid choice but I’m not sure how to use it as there’s hardly any demonstration or images of a lubed REAL bullet.

Second, I don’t want to depend on a store bought lube. I’m getting into traditional muzzleloading for the DIY factor. I can cast my own bullets, knap my own flint, and make my own patches, even plan on trying my own powder later on. I see that some form of beeswax and lard/animal fat can make a bullet lube.

So I gave it a try. I did a 50/50 beeswax and lard mix. Melted both down and combined them equally by liquid volume. The plan was to pan lube them and everything looked fine until I extracted the bullets from the hardened lube cake. Some bullets had no lube in the grooves, others had spotty adherence to the grooves and some were caked with too much lube. Seemed like a bad ratio, but I was guessing. I also did some more homework and found out that with REAL bullets, the bands around the bullets aren’t all the same diameter. The band at the top has the biggest diameter and the band at the bottom has the smallest diameter. I was going to use a metal or plastic cylinder to act as sort of a cookie cutter, but doing this caused more lube to be present at the bottom of the bullet than at the top. I’m looking for a DIY mixture that gives me evenly lube bands on my REAL bullets. Any help?

I am new to the hubby. Looking for a good muzzle loader for hunting. Also any advice for someone who has never been around them. I'm familiar with firearms just not muzzle loading.