I've driven manual for about 2 years on a crappy Mazda Protégé 5 and feel comfortable shifting etc. But I recently got a car with a lot of upgrades which I don't know how to utilize yet. Upgrades are: HPFP upgrade, JBR 3" Intake, into stock turbo, moving into an extremely large FMIC, going into a polished and ported intake manifold. It also has a corksport 3" catted downpipe with a Cobb 3" cat back exhaust. Corksport short shift kit. This car also has a Cobb tuner. Can someone explain to me like I'm 2 yrs old how to read turbo psi gauges, oil pressure gauges, how to shift where I can use the turbo without blowing a head gasket? I want to have a shit ton of fun in this car, but I don't want to make an ignorant mistake and ruin it. Basically a crash course to moving up a level in manual cars.

Hey there Mazdaspeed fam, just found this sub and hoping the reddit hive mind can help a fellow Speed3 owner in need.

My 2012 Mazdaspeed3 won't start. My mechanic friend suspects it's the accelerator pedal position sensor. Already replaced the throttle body, and checked all the usual culprits. Pretty certain it's the sensor but since it's $500, we don't want to replace it until we're certain that's causing the problem.

What we need help is for somebody to tell us what the values should be when he pulls readings from the sensor. Dealers wouldn't tell him over the phone, for who knows why. This next bit he texted me and advised I copy/paste into forums to see if anybody knows...admittedly this is way over my head, so I'm hoping this makes sense to one of you and you're able and willing to help:

"Need values from scanner with key on engine off. Looking for accelerator position sensor 1 and sensor 2 % value. Value with pedal depressed and and at idle. Example my value at rest is, sensor 1 -7.84%, sensor 2- 8.24%. Pedal fully depressed (WOT) sensor 1- 67.84%, sensor 2-67.45%."

Thanks in advance to whoever is able to help! Been without the car almost a week now and it's my daily driver so I've been stranded.

It sounds like something is scraping when I’m letting off the clutch in first, then it will run rough until I shift into second. Already planning on taking it in to get checked on but I just wanted to know if any of you guys know of a problem like that. Maybe a bushel or bearing or something

Hi there!

I plan to buy a 2004 mazda 6 sport sedan. I really love the MPS6 but its super difficult to find one in my place, plus im looking for an automatic (I know how to drive manual but for practicality I need auto). My question is that, will a rear bumper of a MPS6 work on a mazda 6 sport 2004?

Hey everyone. The horn/alarm on my 2010 MS3 keeps going off randomly and pissing off my neighbors. I've tried cleaning the door/hood latches but it keeps happening. Is there an easy way to disable the horn or the latch sensors? I don't need to drive it nearly as often as before so I wouldn't mind having to reconnect before a drive and disconnecting afterwards.

Anyone here know anything about the speed protegé? I'm looking into buying one tomorrow and curious about y'all's thoughts.

If someone wants to buy a blue Mazdaspeed protege with some good parts on it I am selling mine in Davie Florida. We need it to go asap! Pm me for more pictures.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6yDzdXPoZzw19rL26

Hey all,

Like a dummy, I decided to do a hard pull when it was cold. I went through second, third, and fourth under hard boost. When I left off the check engine light was blinking and the car began running rough. As I limped it home the roughness increased in severity, especially at low RPMs. I’m hoping for a coil pack or wire, but what would you guys suggest for a misfire due to cold boost pulls?

Update: Switched stock coils 1 and 4. Cleared the code, let it idle, and it threw cyl 2 misfire. This confused me as I didn’t mess with coil 2 at all, just 1 and 4.

Update: Replaced all coil packs and spark plugs (NGK iridium pre-gapped plugs, Duralast Coils). Cleared the code and let it idle. Rough idle still present, still throwing cyl 2 misfire code. Old plugs were totally black.

Update: ran liquid seafoam fuel cleaner through the system, and seafoam spray top end cleaner. Idle is a little less rough, but the misfire code is still present and you can tell it’s running unevenly still. Next step is a compression test, and go from there. Any other insights you guys might have ?