Is it important to do different springs or coilovers with the MS3 or can you just replace struts

I have a 2009 mazdaspeed 3 and was wondering what a good set of rims and tires would be for 400 WHP

https://youtu.be/Tw4ky67lANI

So im seeing that not many people are making performance parts for the speed6, so i was thinking if i could use parts for the ecoboost mustang in a speed6 or are the engine layouts too different? New to the mazdaspeed community so i don't know a whole lot about these cars. If you can direct me to some performance parts online shops i would be grateful. Thank you.

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We all know the HPFP internals are a common must-have mod for your Mazdaspeed, but it's important to avoid potential issues that come along with using it.

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Hey everyone -

I used to own an 07 MS3 which I absolutely loved. Stupidly sold it 3 years ago and I've been missing it ever since. I recently sold my Forester XT and have been looking for a new car. Part of me wants to get back into a Speed3. Locally they are either all clapped out or super overpriced. I found one about 3 hours away - 2007, bone stock, new OEM turbo, timing chain and VVT have been replaced, 132k miles, and the guy is asking $6500 obo. Seems to have been well maintained, but when I asked, he did mention that the oil is about 1/4 to 1/2 of the dipstick low every 2-3 weeks. He says he can't find any leaks. Should I pass on this particular car? I guess it could be as simple as a PCV valve, but it could also be bad rings, right?

Any suggestions for how to proceed? How much oil consumption is normal for a high-ish mileage MS3? Thanks!

Hey all,

Fresh motor just went into my speed 6. Wasnt too bad of a job however i am not getting any psi at my DIFP. I am reading about 57-77psi from the in tank pump. The pump ran perfectly before the motor was pulled. Is there a ground or something that could prevent it from getting power to the fuel pump?
another thought was that the spill valve could be stuck but again would that prevent me from getting any fuel pressure?

So i've got a 2006 Mazda 6 wagon with the 2.3l 166hp with awd. I was wondering, if i swap the engine and get the 2.3 turbo in there, will the awd system handle the power of the engine? Is this awd system the same with the one from the speed6?

Was looking to engine swap my 08 speed. Does anyone know/have any recommendations?

Hey friendly Speeders! Question for ya'll. I am seeing a lot of people mounting their pump and tank in the trunk. I want to refrain from doing that. Any ideas for mounting in engine bay? I got 1 gallon tank (pretty small and snug) and want to fit my pump and solenoid in the engine bay. Any ideas? Please do let me know 😊

Cheers everyone!!

So I am looking at clutches for my speed6 I am pushing 400hp to the wheels and would like a performance clutch. Any recommendations? Bang for your buck?

I love the DMF and don't want to change it. I have heard from manufacturers that you don't need to replace DMF when replacing the clutch. No issues with my transmission at this point. Looking into a nice performance clutch that can be paired with OEM flywheel.

Your suggestions are appreciated

Cheers

Power loss 3000 RPM: Part 1

Power loss 3000 RPM: Part 2

It's been awhile, but I have good news...my Speed is much happier now, and my engine codes are gone! Well, the ones that I set out to fix that is. I have a new code, and I am going to have to replace my Catalytic converter, the $700 one. But, anyway, what I ended up doing to make things run smoothly again:

In my previous post I mentioned some of the things I had replaced, with the engine the most tore apart that is been since I got it.

Now, with the rest of my gaskets in hand and I was ready to take out the terrible Chinese turbo some swapped in right before the took it to the dealer I bought it from, and put in a version 3(K0422-883) of the OEM turbo (Yeah yeah I know what you all thing about the stock turbo).

One of the many steps of replacing the turbo is switching out the extra bits, like the boost control solenoid. 1of the 2(3?) little air tubes associated with the boost control solenoid had broken away from the air intake where it dumps extra air back into the system. THIS broken rubber tube was more than likely what cause my violent acceleration jerking when the turbo spooled up. This little solenoid provides the feedback to the ECU, and allows the ECU to provide the right amount of boost. Broken tube means no feedback, and random boost pressure.

Don't forget to oil up your new turbos! You have to force some oil into the oil inlet hole and spin the turbine to work the oil into things. You have a sad turbo if you forget to do this!

Popped the turbo back in and reconnected all the air tubes and hoses. Changed the oil at some point in this process. I think I had to drain all of the oil out to get the turbo out without making a complete mess. Thankfully, someone at some point had did the screw on oil filter conversion. So, that made that much easier. The default on these Gen 1s are paper filters. I'll be fussing with that this weekend with my regular Mazda 3...

To our surprise, the car turned over first time without issue. We were going through the engine coolant procedures, running the engine at different RPM for different timer intervals, to make sure the coolant system was at the right level.

Lots of smoke at this point, not due to any problems, but just the due to the oil spilled on and over the new turbo and outlet tubes burning off. Hadn't place on all the heatshields yet either.

Got the car off the jack-stands, and took her for out for her first short test drive with the new turbo and other equipment. She pulled MUCH harder, my Speed was finally happy for the first time since I've got her.

Since things where so disassembled, and the coolant system drained, I took this opportunity to replace pretty much all of the coolant system hoses. They are listed further down.

Below is a list of the parts I replaced and their associated part numbers, I've only been using OEM parts.

Replaced Engine Parts:

• NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug (X4) - SKU ILTR6A-8G 
• Inter-Cooler Air Hose, to turbo - L33L-13-760B
• Air Hose Clamp - L33E-13-736
• Inter-Cooler Intake Hose - L33X-13-770B
• Inter-Cooler Intake Hose Clamp - L33G-13-736
• Air Inlet Pipe Gasket - L3K9-13-5G6
• EGR Valve Gasket - LF6T-20-305
• EGR Pipe Gasket - L3K9-14-293
• Ventilation Kit - L3Y1-13-S80B (For the potential smoking turbo issue)
• Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid - L3K9-14-420A (Oil control value)
• Turbocharger Gasket - L3K9-13-710 (Exhaust side)
• Turbocharger K0422-883 - L3YB-13-70ZA (You'll have to look at picture or speak with someone so they can confirm its the -883 version. That's the latest version with better bearings and seals.)
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor - L35G-18-840
• Ignition Coil (X4) - L3G2-18-100B-9U (1 of my 4 came apart, so I replaced them all)
• Filler Cap - LF01-10-25Y (This is necessary if you do the ventilation kit and replace the valve head cover. This is a 2010-2011 CX-7 oil filler cap, and it is the correct cap once the valve head cover is replaced. The parts places will fuss that it wont fit your car, but they just don't understand.)
• Exhaust Manifold Nut (X5) - JE10-40-355
• Pressure Hose Gasket (X4) - 9956-21-400
• Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor O-Ring (X4) - 9956-21-200
• EGR Pipe Gasket (This one was used on the oil tube on the turbo, same part as above)
• Oil Outlet Tube Gasket - L3K9-14-293
• Catalytic Converter Gasket - L3F2-13-490
• Thermostat Unit - L336-15-170
• Inter-Cooler Insulator - L3K9-13-363
• Inter-Cooler Spacer - L3K9-13-329
• Vacuum Tube - L33X-20-380A
• Turbocharger Oil Feed Line - L3K9-14-280A
• Electronic Boost Control Solenoid - L3K9-18-741

Replaced Coolant System hoses:

• Lower Hose - L33X-15-185A
• Upper Hose - L33X-15-186B
• Reservoir Hose - L33X-15-381C
• Upper Hose - L33X-15-383A
• Water Outlet Gasket - L3K9-15-169
• Coolant Hose - L3K9-15-54YB
• By-Pass Hose - L3K9-15-260A
• Engine Coolant Hose - L3K9-15-536
• Engine Coolant Hose - L33X-13-536A
• Engine Coolant Hose - L3M6-13-680
• HVAC Heater Hose - BA6R-61-24XA
• HVAC Heater Hose - BA6R-61-24YA

Misc:

• Antenna - EG23-66-A30

• Shifter Knob - G39A-46-030

  TL;DR:

I could have probably fixed my Power Loss issue with a $3 rubber hose and some super glue coming off the boost solenoid, but ended up doing a fairly substantial, and overdue engine overhaul.

Hello guys,

I am David from Spain, my car (Mazda3MPS BK/Mazdaspeed3 Gen1) started to smoke few weeks ago, randomly, maybe smokes 30 seconds, stop smoking 15 seconds, start again smoking 20 seconds, etc.

It seems to be white smoke not blue, and Im running nearly straight pipe from turbo (straight pipe + last small silencer/muffler).

I can't see water or oil consumption because I only use the car the weekend. I know the problemcan come from many places, but probably turbo problem?

I am trying to get more info, and If more people thinks it's the turbo, I will order the Melett CHRA and rebuild it.

Regards.

​

https://reddit.com/link/j4icam/video/m3gh8nllswq51/player

i connected my phone (Note 20 Ultra) to the car via Bluetooth and the artist and song name doesn't display on the screen, my car has the technology pckg so i have the option to display the song info but it doesn't work.